March 30, 2024, 12:38:28 am
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Great photo reference, Chance - cheers. If I start building more cabs I may just hit up Alibaba or Express. It's crazy how much casters cost... I opted to hit up Home Hardware today and bought 2 non-swivel type wheels very similar to the ones you and Wyo posted. I wanted to save the headache of adding my swivel type wheels - 4 would most likely have the cabinet moving during game-play and I'm not sure that 2 wheels that swivel on the back would be ideal either. Now I've got 4 swivel wheels I can donate to the shop which are handy anyway for carts etc.
Great work! You have a very nice selection of tools/shop! I'm jealous!The bottom of the back door is attached to the cabinet with a tongue and groove. I route the inside edge of the back bottom piece about 5/8 wide groove and half the thickness of the material and then do the same thing thing on the bottom of the back door panel.
Then there is a piece of wood attached to the backside of the lower back panel that sandwiches the lower back door groove when installed. You can kinda see the double thickness of that back panel on the pic that chance put up. I usually just put a strip of wood along the top and not all the way down the back of the back panel.
Are you using stock nintendo lower marquee mounting brackets? Because If you are, there's a final issue there too...another builder on here did as well in the same place. I ran there If not, you should be fine.
OH - what about a keyboard tray? I saw one build where the speaker panel folds forward to reveal a drawer for a keyboard. Is this sacrilege? What are most guys doing to control the RPi when / if necessary?Thanks guys.
I just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.
Quote from: Wyo on March 30, 2017, 08:43:28 pmI just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.Kreg's are fantastic. No more gluing either.
Quote from: wp34 on March 30, 2017, 08:47:26 pmQuote from: Wyo on March 30, 2017, 08:43:28 pmI just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.Kreg's are fantastic. No more gluing either. Agreed. There's nothing more satisfying than seeing the panels draw tightly into each other as you screw them in....well, there's things more satisfying....but that's definitely up there! Haha.
I love my Kreg. I still use glue, though.
Quote from: yotsuya on March 30, 2017, 09:32:40 pmI love my Kreg. I still use glue, though.I was at a Kreg seminar last week at our local Woodsmith Store. Somebody asked the Kreg rep if you needed to use glue. He said if you needed glue Kreg would sell glue. They don't sell glue. Made me laugh.Their plant is about 20 minutes from where I live. Same small town where I picked up my Q*Bert.
You do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools? Really great job!
I thought some of those upright tools looked pretty old in the background! Cool, my 79 year old neighbor has a bunch of old shop tools from the 50s that he lets me use. I love his old Delta Table saw....they don't make Em like they used too.Also, I can tell you are slightly OCD by the fact that your screws in your batons match on both sides...mine have to match too. Weirdos. Haha.Also, REALLY nice job on that cross member angled cut....I don't even do that. I need too. Nice job man, look forward to updates!
Quote from: Wyo on April 03, 2017, 01:37:03 amI thought some of those upright tools looked pretty old in the background! Cool, my 79 year old neighbor has a bunch of old shop tools from the 50s that he lets me use. I love his old Delta Table saw....they don't make Em like they used too.Also, I can tell you are slightly OCD by the fact that your screws in your batons match on both sides...mine have to match too. Weirdos. Haha.Also, REALLY nice job on that cross member angled cut....I don't even do that. I need too. Nice job man, look forward to updates!Haha - seriously, I hadn't noticed that but I have been taking my time. Painting the inside may even be overkill but if I'm going to have my head in there, I want it to look decent. Thanks for the compliments!Another screw-up was when drilling the outermost holes for the wheels, the hole came through my inner batons. I had to cut those sections out to allow for the bolts / nuts... all little things I'd map out better for a second build. Funny you should mention that as well as I've been thinking about my next project already.... lights, wood, video games, graphics... man, what could be more fun to build?!QUESTION: I'm at the point of thinking about paint. Lots of guys roll this out with a sponge roller with good results. I've used that technique on other projects, but have considered a rattle can for this project. What's your experience with this? Can a guy get a good finish if sanding lightly between coats and applying multiple (say 2-3) coats?I want to do this in an orange color and found a good match to my graphics with the Rustoleum orange, but it only comes in 'gloss'. I'm thinking semi-gloss is the way to go... can a guy mute the finish by spraying a semi-gloss clear over the gloss paint? I'm not 100% on the best way to approach this but it's a critical step on the build so I want to get it right!Thanks for any input.
Another option would be to try the vinyl rolls sold on ThisOldGame.com.....
Quote from: Wyo on April 02, 2017, 09:26:11 pmYou do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools? Really great job! ^^This exactly.
Another option would be to try the vinyl rolls sold on ThisOldGame.comhttp://www.thisoldgame.com/categories/vinylI was talking to a friend of mine on the phone last week who just finished a Nintendo restoration in Arizona. He was saying that it's an amazingly good way to get a nice finish on a Nintendo cab. Put a base coat of black primer on the front/back/sides, then spray or roll on your black gloss sections, then apply this stuff to the front/sides and trim it with a knife. Sounds quite good. He was very happy with the end result.Keep in mind, colour on actual Nintendo cabs are not painted, but they are applied like formica counter top surfaces.
Quote from: jdbailey1206 on June 26, 2014, 08:21:29 amI have to say Sjaak that your marquee looks a lot better than what I had purchased for my previous cab. Where did you get it done?Foil at https://www.onlineprinters.com/Plexi at http://www.pixartprinting.com/wide-format/printing-flat-bed-rigid-materials/perspex/Not sure if they ship to the US
I have to say Sjaak that your marquee looks a lot better than what I had purchased for my previous cab. Where did you get it done?
It has been awhile since my last update. A lot has happened in my personal life and with that I have not had much time to work on my FFJR cab. No major work has to be done and I am just slowly accumulating all of the artwork. That being said I purchased the marquee. I went with Sjaak's advice and went with pixart printing. Needless to say I was completely impressed. I would highly recommend pixart printing if you are looking for a marquee that pops. Anyway...Enough of me plugging pixart printing. On to the showcase. When I opened the package I was taken aback on how well this resembled a true arcade marquee. I believe this is how I am going to do marquees from now on.I could not believe how reflective this was. But once I pseudo installed it in front of the marquee light it really gave that original look.By the end of the month I hope to get the control panel and monitor bezel artwork printed out. After that I am going to send the cab to its permanent home. More to come.
If its Digital and custom: Brad, If its Repro: one of the three listed above. Brad did my marquee reverse printed. Which came out AMAZING. I really think he's got that down to a science.