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Author Topic: First DK Cabinet Build  (Read 9048 times)

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ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #40 on: March 30, 2017, 02:30:12 am »
take it from me, you do not need swivel casters on a Nintendo cab. :)
I wanna say it was Aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Metal-Top-Plate-3-Single-Wheel-White-Nylon-Fixed-Caster/1178755_2019963932.html

Can't remember if they were 2.5" or 3"

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #41 on: March 30, 2017, 03:50:45 pm »
Thanks Chance. The wheels I bought yesterday at HH aren't going to work. Height was right, they were stationary but the base (didn't think to measure) would overhang about 3". I picked up some others today that will still overhang slightly, but nothing a cutting wheel can't fix... who would have thought finding wheels would be so tricky.

Made a bit of progress last night with some primer and paint on the bottom shelf and I laid out most of the batons on the second side. This went much quicker than the first now that I have something to take direct measurements from.

Also, cut the rear upper and lower strips that bookend the rear panel as well as the top shelf, so I should be able to get her upright this weekend.

QUESTION - one thing I'm not completely clear on is how the rear panel attaches. I bought a keyed lock for the top of the rear panel and get how that clasps but what's supporting the bottom edge as it rests on the lower rear strip with the cutout? Is there a piano hinge here?

Here's the second side with the batons in place:


Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #42 on: March 30, 2017, 04:07:56 pm »
Great work! You have a very nice selection of tools/shop! I'm jealous!

The bottom of the back door is attached to the cabinet with a tongue and groove.  I route the inside edge of the back bottom piece about 5/8 wide groove and half the thickness of the material and then do the same thing thing on the bottom of the back door panel.   

Then there is a piece of wood attached to the backside of the lower back panel that sandwiches the lower back door groove when installed.  You can kinda see the double thickness of that back panel on the pic that chance put up.  I usually just put a strip of wood along the top and not all the way down the back of the back panel.

Hope that make sense.

I actually didn't realize this when I made my first two cabs and had to Mickey mouse a way to attach the lower part of the door as well. Haha.  Kinda getting hung up on the same things.

Are you using stock nintendo lower marquee mounting brackets? Because If you are, there's a final issue there too...another builder on here did as well in the same place.  I ran there If not, you should be fine.

ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #43 on: March 30, 2017, 04:15:36 pm »
Here's a closer look at the bottom of the repro door i had to make.

Untitled by Chance Johnson

Untitled by Chance Johnson

ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #44 on: March 30, 2017, 04:18:14 pm »
Its two opposing rabbet cuts along the bottom. and the door rests inside long rabbet cuts made into the inside back edges of the cabinet sides


Untitled by Chance Johnson

wp34

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #45 on: March 30, 2017, 04:19:02 pm »
Great photo reference, Chance - cheers. If I start building more cabs I may just hit up Alibaba or Express. It's crazy how much casters cost... I opted to hit up Home Hardware today and bought 2 non-swivel type wheels very similar to the ones you and Wyo posted. I wanted to save the headache of adding my swivel type wheels - 4 would most likely have the cabinet moving during game-play and I'm not sure that 2 wheels that swivel on the back would be ideal either. Now I've got 4 swivel wheels I can donate to the shop which are handy anyway for carts etc.

I put swivel casters on my scratch built FIF just so that my 5' tall daughter will be able to move it herself easily.  So far we haven't noticed any stability issues. 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147560.msg1547087.html#msg1547087

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #46 on: March 30, 2017, 05:50:59 pm »
Great work! You have a very nice selection of tools/shop! I'm jealous!

The bottom of the back door is attached to the cabinet with a tongue and groove.  I route the inside edge of the back bottom piece about 5/8 wide groove and half the thickness of the material and then do the same thing thing on the bottom of the back door panel. 

This makes sense. I'll put a tongue / groove (probably better than 45-ing) to give it a lip to keep closed on the bottom. Thanks!


Then there is a piece of wood attached to the backside of the lower back panel that sandwiches the lower back door groove when installed.  You can kinda see the double thickness of that back panel on the pic that chance put up.  I usually just put a strip of wood along the top and not all the way down the back of the back panel.


RE this piece of wood... Rather than a dado on the back edges of my cabinet sides, I have those baton strips to affix my rear lower/upper panels on either side of the larger access panel. That said, I'm not sure how (or if I'd need to) have this strip. Do you think the rabbet would be enough to keep everything happy back there? ;)


Are you using stock nintendo lower marquee mounting brackets? Because If you are, there's a final issue there too...another builder on here did as well in the same place.  I ran there If not, you should be fine.

OK - now I'm completely confused ;). I did order the brackets from Mike's a few days ago (had considered trying something 'generic' from Home Depot, but decided to splurge on the brackets. What issue should I be expecting, or can I mitigate ??

Cheers!

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #47 on: March 30, 2017, 06:06:30 pm »
Okay, you should be fine then since those batons will act like that piece to keep the bottom of the door moving Inwards on the edges.

As far as the lower marquee bracket issue goes...that lower marquee bracket mounts on the underside of the marquee box shelf....so make sure to accomodate for that because you are using 3/4 wood.  Otherwise, you will have to make your plexiglass marquee taller than the standard Nintendo marquee....if that matters to you, if not disregard this post. :)

Ive seen people on here who are scratch building these cabs mount the lower marquee bracket on the top of the shelf to accomodate the standard Nintendo plex Marquee....but that's kinda lame looking.

What I learned to do after I messed this up on my first Nintendo build is to route the bottom side of the marquee shelf (like your gonna do on the bottom of the door) to make that height adjustment for the marquee...and the depth for the bracket mounting tabs.   Somebody else on here learned to do that as well, I forget who it was.  Better to do this now before you put it together....as it will be impossible if you glue it in. 

Hope that makes sense....I'll see if I can find a pic.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 06:09:22 pm by Wyo »

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #48 on: March 30, 2017, 06:07:50 pm »
You can kinda see what I'm talking about here on the bottom of the marquee boxes,  the shelf edge is routed to accomodate for the height difference.  I think the standard nintendo shelf is 1/2 wood in there....I think...so that's why I'd doesn't need to be adjusted like this.   Anyways, just wanted to alert you so you aren't surprised like I was when I went to put my marquee on the first cabs I built.  :banghead: haha

« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 06:17:45 pm by Wyo »

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #49 on: March 30, 2017, 08:00:38 pm »
Wyo -

This is excellent. I get what you're saying now and appreciate the photos and clarification. I may make some DK purists shudder but I'm doing custom graphics on my cab, including the marquee. I'm still going to use the bezel but just with different artwork from GameOn Graphics. As far as I know, they don't supply the plexi, so I'll have them send me the vinyl and apply it to the plexi for the bezel.

That being said, I do have some allowance as far as height, but I want to make the build as close to original as possible. Also, while most of my build is MDF, I've been cutting shelves from 5/8" ply (that pretty stuff you can see in my photos). It's probably overkill but I've had it on hand for a while and thought I may as well use it up.

Ok - I think I've got that part dialled in. I can continue with the build and then just adjust artwork to suit slightly if need be.

On a separate note, I was thinking that it may be tricky to screw my panels together. I have the batons at 3/4" but getting a drill in there could be tight. I've read about guys gluing the batons down on the side panels for the final steps of the build, but is the whole thing typically getting glued and screwed or are guys just screwing the shelves / back / top etc. so the unit can be disassembled (if need be) down the road?

PS - Are those your builds with the custom speaker cutouts ?! Incredible man. How the heck did you get those so perfect?!  :applaud:
« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 08:25:21 pm by mwhitney »

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #50 on: March 30, 2017, 08:06:46 pm »
[Noob question alert] - what is the bottom right cutout for? I'm picking up some of those slick handles from Mike's for the top cutouts at the back - just not clear on the bottom cutout.

Also, how about power? I like the idea of those computer--style plugs with the slick little insert. Just wondering what the general consensus is on how to power this baby so all looks pro and clean.

I'm running an LCD and RPi.

OH - what about a keyboard tray? I saw one build where the speaker panel folds forward to reveal a drawer for a keyboard. Is this sacrilege? What are most guys doing to control the RPi when / if necessary?

Thanks guys.

yotsuya

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #51 on: March 30, 2017, 08:15:09 pm »
It's a scratch build... no one's going to "shudder".
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

wp34

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #52 on: March 30, 2017, 08:41:11 pm »
OH - what about a keyboard tray? I saw one build where the speaker panel folds forward to reveal a drawer for a keyboard. Is this sacrilege? What are most guys doing to control the RPi when / if necessary?

Thanks guys.

A lot of use use a version of this cordless keyboard/touchpad.  Makes things a lot easier and no keyboard drawer required.

https://smile.amazon.com/Logitech-920-007119-Wireless-Keyboard-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490920765&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+keyboard+touchpad


Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #53 on: March 30, 2017, 08:43:28 pm »
Right on, you're good then.  :cheers:

The bottom back cut out your talking about is for the power switch.  It's cutout and then there is a piece of wood behind it with the switch mounted, so it's recessed in case you lay the machine down and drag it or soemthing....it won't rip the switch off.  I don't really include that in the past but I will probabaly start doing that cut out and recessing the switch.


As far as gluing and screwing, I typically glue and screw the panels to the batons.  Are you planning on taking it apart? The hardest screws to get in are the ones inside the marquee box and on the backside marquee light panel.  However, if you just use a square bit on a quarter inch rachet....it will work just fine for that tight right angle.  It's a good thing you are using those square headed screws....as a Phillips would suck! I made the switch myself and made life easier. If you look at JDBailey1206s FIFJ build, I think he bought a right angle attachment for his drill to get those marquee screws.

I just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.

« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 08:53:20 pm by Wyo »

wp34

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #54 on: March 30, 2017, 08:47:26 pm »

I just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.

Kreg's are fantastic.  No more gluing either.   :cheers:

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #55 on: March 30, 2017, 08:50:34 pm »

I just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.

Kreg's are fantastic.  No more gluing either.   :cheers:

Agreed. There's nothing more satisfying than seeing the panels draw tightly into each other as you screw them in....well, there's things more satisfying....but that's definitely up there! Haha. :)

wp34

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #56 on: March 30, 2017, 08:59:49 pm »

I just got a Kreg jig....best investment ever! No more batons....save like $75 per cab now not buying 3/4 inch square dowels.

Kreg's are fantastic.  No more gluing either.   :cheers:

Agreed. There's nothing more satisfying than seeing the panels draw tightly into each other as you screw them in....well, there's things more satisfying....but that's definitely up there! Haha. :)

Ha ha!  True that!

yotsuya

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #57 on: March 30, 2017, 09:32:40 pm »
I love my Kreg. I still use glue, though.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

wp34

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #58 on: March 30, 2017, 09:53:43 pm »
I love my Kreg. I still use glue, though.

I was at a Kreg seminar last week at our local Woodsmith Store.  Somebody asked the Kreg rep if you needed to use glue.  He said if you needed glue Kreg would sell glue. They don't sell glue.  Made me laugh.

Their plant is about 20 minutes from where I live.  Same small town where I picked up my Q*Bert.

yotsuya

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #59 on: March 30, 2017, 10:38:30 pm »
I love my Kreg. I still use glue, though.

I was at a Kreg seminar last week at our local Woodsmith Store.  Somebody asked the Kreg rep if you needed to use glue.  He said if you needed glue Kreg would sell glue. They don't sell glue.  Made me laugh.

Their plant is about 20 minutes from where I live.  Same small town where I picked up my Q*Bert.
LOL.

I like to reinforce my stuff with glue, mainly because I know how people like to sit and lean on stuff. But yeah, the Kreg joints are solid.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #60 on: March 31, 2017, 12:03:21 am »
Crap - that Kreg jig looks like the way to go... Now I'm considering removing all the dowels.  ???

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #61 on: March 31, 2017, 12:20:30 am »
No, no, no....don't do that.  You're good with the dowels.

Just get one for the next build...because there will be one, there always is!  :dizzy:

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #62 on: April 02, 2017, 08:25:27 pm »
Hard at it this weekend and made some good progress.

Wheel base was too long so had to trim and drill some new holes:







That's a better fit:



Batons all screwed down - double checking alignment:



Milled down a piece of fir I had kicking around for the control panel and bezel retainer:


Started to dry fit all the cross-members etc.:




Starting to look like something!


Drilled a few holes below control panel for 'add credit buttons':


Wheels in place with some risers:



She lives! This is the first time she was upright. I can't lie - I pretend to play a game complete with shooting noises ;)









Saturday: Made some progress with the bezel retainer. I screwed up on the wider dado and trimmed it too wide. I had to fill it with a strip and re-cut but the repair is hardly noticeable and the slot is perfect:





Continuing to dry fit:









Cut the top '5mm' strip as well as the bottom shelf. I ended up picking up a half sheet of thin ply that measures about 6mm... close enough.



Sunday - Got the back panel cut and screwed up the orientation of my rabbet. It took me quite a while to get the reverse of my rabbet cut on the back panel (lots of head scratching and test cuts) only to cut it on the wrong side  :banghead: -  now my G1S is on the inside... ah well, at least it's on the back. I can fill the few voids and paint - no one will know but me and you guys.



Once my keyed lock shows up from Mike's, I'll know where to drill the hole and it should* suck this top portion in tight:



Sunday:

Last night I glued down all my batons on the side panels so she'd be good to go this morning. I hit the bottom edges with primer and paint b/c getting a brush in there once she's assembled would be tough.

I started glueing and screwing the panels  to the one side and hit the inside w/ primer while she's all open... I figure this will be a better and quicker job than brushing and foam rolling. I also got the coin door cut out and almost made a fatal error drawing it all out 'square' -- that would have left some nice vent holes around the rounded corners ;)... luckily I caught it before I fired up the jig saw:



Another shot of the inside w/ primer... ran out of paint:






Goals for tomorrow evening are to hit the remaining bits w/ primer & paint. I want to get a nice smooth finish on those interior edges so spray is the way to go IMO. From there, the other side panel can get glued and screwed into place and she'll be ready to stand up for good!

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #63 on: April 02, 2017, 09:26:11 pm »
You do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools?

Really great job!  :cheers:

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #64 on: April 02, 2017, 11:28:27 pm »
You do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools?

Really great job!  :cheers:

Hey, thanks Wyo - I'm humbled by your comments. Your builds and artwork are outstanding!

It's definitely nice to have a good supply of tools - most of which I've saved for over the years but many I inherited from my grandfather when he passed. It's kind of a cool project in that respect as I'm using many of his tools to build something we spent many hours playing when I was a kid. He had an old Atari and we used to duke it out over Warlords and Pitfall. I've thought several times through this build that this would have been a fun project to work on together.

rablack97

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #65 on: April 03, 2017, 12:18:16 am »
 :notworthy: :notworthy:
   

2016 Texas Pinball Festival - Best Arcade In Show - MKX

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #66 on: April 03, 2017, 01:37:03 am »
I thought some of those upright tools looked pretty old in the background! Cool, my 79 year old neighbor has a bunch of old shop tools from the 50s that he lets me use.  I love his old Delta Table saw....they don't make Em like they used too.

Also, I can tell you are slightly OCD by the fact that your screws in your batons match on both sides...mine have to match too. Weirdos. Haha.

Also, REALLY nice job on that cross member angled cut....I don't even do that. I need too.

Nice job man, look forward to updates!
« Last Edit: April 03, 2017, 01:38:56 am by Wyo »

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #67 on: April 03, 2017, 02:38:33 pm »
I thought some of those upright tools looked pretty old in the background! Cool, my 79 year old neighbor has a bunch of old shop tools from the 50s that he lets me use.  I love his old Delta Table saw....they don't make Em like they used too.

Also, I can tell you are slightly OCD by the fact that your screws in your batons match on both sides...mine have to match too. Weirdos. Haha.

Also, REALLY nice job on that cross member angled cut....I don't even do that. I need too.

Nice job man, look forward to updates!

Haha - seriously, I hadn't noticed that but I have been taking my time. Painting the inside may even be overkill but if I'm going to have my head in there, I want it to look decent. Thanks for the compliments!

Another screw-up was when drilling the outermost holes for the wheels, the hole came through my inner batons. I had to cut those sections out to allow for the bolts / nuts... all little things I'd map out better for a second build. Funny you should mention that as well as I've been thinking about my next project already.... lights, wood, video games, graphics... man, what could be more fun to build?!

QUESTION: I'm at the point of thinking about paint. Lots of guys roll this out with a sponge roller with good results. I've used that technique on other projects, but have considered a rattle can for this project. What's your experience with this? Can a guy get a good finish if sanding lightly between coats and applying multiple (say 2-3) coats?

I want to do this in an orange color and found a good match to my graphics with the Rustoleum orange, but it only comes in 'gloss'. I'm thinking semi-gloss is the way to go... can a guy mute the finish by spraying a semi-gloss clear over the gloss paint? I'm not 100% on the best way to approach this but it's a critical step on the build so I want to get it right!

Thanks for any input.

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #68 on: April 03, 2017, 03:24:12 pm »
You do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools?

Really great job!  :cheers:

^^This exactly. :cheers:

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #69 on: April 03, 2017, 05:37:47 pm »
I thought some of those upright tools looked pretty old in the background! Cool, my 79 year old neighbor has a bunch of old shop tools from the 50s that he lets me use.  I love his old Delta Table saw....they don't make Em like they used too.

Also, I can tell you are slightly OCD by the fact that your screws in your batons match on both sides...mine have to match too. Weirdos. Haha.

Also, REALLY nice job on that cross member angled cut....I don't even do that. I need too.

Nice job man, look forward to updates!

Haha - seriously, I hadn't noticed that but I have been taking my time. Painting the inside may even be overkill but if I'm going to have my head in there, I want it to look decent. Thanks for the compliments!

Another screw-up was when drilling the outermost holes for the wheels, the hole came through my inner batons. I had to cut those sections out to allow for the bolts / nuts... all little things I'd map out better for a second build. Funny you should mention that as well as I've been thinking about my next project already.... lights, wood, video games, graphics... man, what could be more fun to build?!

QUESTION: I'm at the point of thinking about paint. Lots of guys roll this out with a sponge roller with good results. I've used that technique on other projects, but have considered a rattle can for this project. What's your experience with this? Can a guy get a good finish if sanding lightly between coats and applying multiple (say 2-3) coats?

I want to do this in an orange color and found a good match to my graphics with the Rustoleum orange, but it only comes in 'gloss'. I'm thinking semi-gloss is the way to go... can a guy mute the finish by spraying a semi-gloss clear over the gloss paint? I'm not 100% on the best way to approach this but it's a critical step on the build so I want to get it right!

Thanks for any input.


To answer your last question, yes.  You can actually spray a flat basecoat of Orange....and then clear coat it with semi gloss for the desired effect.  The clear has the final say in the matter.  In the automotive paint systems, the base coat is actually dull...then the clear coat is what makes the paint finish shine. Make sure you wait for your base coat of lacquer to fully cure before you clear.  Also, lightly scuff it with a gray or red scotch brite pad and clean it really good before you apply the clear as well. 

All that being said, as far as using rattle can....that's Chances area of expertise.  He had really great results with his DK Ultimate build. 

The challenge with rattle can is the small fan pattern....which gives you an increased chance of runs and tiger stripes (gaps in the paint strokes)

To combat this, I would do one side of the cab at a time, lying down in a clean environment.....that way you are painting you using gravity to work with you...instead of wanting to run.   This increases your chance of dirt, bugs, and debris settling on to your paint tho....so make sure you are in a clean space.  If you use a semigloss clear coat, you won't be able to sand out and polish any dirt nibs....it won't look right.

To combat tiger stripes, do one coat horizontally, then another vertically, or diagonally,  then horizontally again...whatever you need to do to make the rattle can finish even.

Above all this, if you want to learn a new skill and have a compressor with enough CFM in that badass shop of yours...I'd suggest buying that $15 purple harbor freight HVLP paint gun and going to town with that.  It's a great gun!  If you don't want to use automotive urethane paint, you can use it to put down some enamel (reduced with acetone) and do it all in one shot (3 coats).  Enamel tends to dry to the finish of a semi gloss.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2017, 05:43:33 pm by Wyo »

ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #70 on: April 04, 2017, 04:39:24 am »
Another option would be to try the vinyl rolls sold on ThisOldGame.com

http://www.thisoldgame.com/categories/vinyl

I was talking to a friend of mine on the phone last week who just finished a Nintendo restoration in Arizona. He was saying that it's an amazingly good way to get a nice finish on a Nintendo cab. Put a base coat of black primer on the front/back/sides, then spray or roll on your black gloss sections, then apply this stuff to the front/sides and trim it with a knife.  Sounds quite good. He was very happy with the end result.

Keep in mind, colour on actual Nintendo cabs are not painted, but they are applied like formica counter top surfaces.

I used Rustolium Painters Touch Ultra to get the purple on my cab, its gloss. Looks pretty good in my opinion. And it sits next to an original Blue Nintendo cab in my arcade.  Keep in mind i used a LOT of cans, its very expensive and i'm glad it wasn't my first attempt at spraying with cans (my FLYNN's MAME cab was).  I DO NOT sand between coats, i do however start with a good smooth surface. You might also want to think about dragging a fill layer of bondo across the surfaces that will be Orange to smooth out the wood grain.

I used 6 cans of flat black primer, 2 cans of semi-gloss black (for certain areas), then 6 cans of purple. 2 rolls of high quality edging painters tape (thats key!) and a LOT of old newspaper.



I masked off the bare wood sections first, then painted a couple primer coats. I used the primer coats for the flat black sections inside, and the inside of the speaker grill.





After that dried, i masked off the areas that would be semi-gloss and purple. Including the inside of the speaker grill.







Once that was painted and dried, i masked off all the black and started work on the purple.








My buddy Cody (who's an automotive painter) was able to match exactly the colour and finish of the Red DK cabs EXACTLY for his DK restore. And that was with a a mix of a base coat and finish using his spray gun setup. For him, it was nothing. But he's got experience in this kinda stuff, (which is why i had him paint the silver on my Robotron cab). He pulled off the speaker grill panel and used it as the test to compare to the original red that was on the cab. Once he was happy with his colour/finish combo he bondoed up the cab and gave it a new coat of red.

« Last Edit: April 04, 2017, 04:52:23 am by ChanceKJ »

jdbailey1206

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #71 on: April 04, 2017, 06:10:55 am »
Another option would be to try the vinyl rolls sold on ThisOldGame.com.....

For one reason or another...






mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #72 on: April 04, 2017, 12:27:39 pm »
You do really good work, take awesome pictures, and did I mention I'm jealous of your shop and tools?

Really great job!  :cheers:

^^This exactly. :cheers:

Thanks for the support!

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #73 on: April 04, 2017, 12:41:07 pm »
Another option would be to try the vinyl rolls sold on ThisOldGame.com

http://www.thisoldgame.com/categories/vinyl

I was talking to a friend of mine on the phone last week who just finished a Nintendo restoration in Arizona. He was saying that it's an amazingly good way to get a nice finish on a Nintendo cab. Put a base coat of black primer on the front/back/sides, then spray or roll on your black gloss sections, then apply this stuff to the front/sides and trim it with a knife.  Sounds quite good. He was very happy with the end result.

Keep in mind, colour on actual Nintendo cabs are not painted, but they are applied like formica counter top surfaces.


Thanks for the tips, Chance. I actually found your build thread yesterday and was inspired to pick up some gloss. That was my hangup as I didn't really want gloss but had found the Rustoleum Orange and thought the color would be perfect w/ my graphics. After seeing your finish the gloss coat looks good - great work on your build. The detailed posts you've made are helpful - cheers.

Vinyl... I hadn't considered that. Both sides of my cab are going to be covered completely so the only orange sections would be the front and speaker grill, both of which are MDF so the surface is nice and flat. It may be worth just picking up some orange vinyl...

On a side note, where did you get your bezel and other graphics printed? To date, I've found Game On Graphics and they seem to be reasonable. They don't print / lay the vinyl on the bezel itself though... did you apply your graphics to your plexiglass (I think I read that you used a smoked bezel?). Also, is it Lexan that most are using?

Thanks again!

ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #74 on: April 04, 2017, 01:46:16 pm »
On a side note, where did you get your bezel and other graphics printed? To date, I've found Game On Graphics and they seem to be reasonable. They don't print / lay the vinyl on the bezel itself though... did you apply your graphics to your plexiglass (I think I read that you used a smoked bezel?). Also, is it Lexan that most are using?

Yeah, its a sheet of smoked plexi from my local Industrial Paint & Plastics vendor here in the city.

For the printing, if i'm doing custom work the only person i trust to get it right is Brad:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.40.html

For repros of existing work i usualy got with PhoenixArcade.com, ThisOldGame.com, or MikesArcade.com.  Mike's is good for decent quality Nintendo stuff that looks good, and doesn't break the bank. However, its not top quality, purist approved, screen prints like you'd get from the other two.  I don't trust most digital printing places like Game on Graphix, ebay resellers.   If its Digital and custom: Brad, If its Repro: one of the three listed above.

Brad did my marquee reverse printed. Which came out AMAZING. I really think he's got that down to a science.


For one reason or another...

...you know me way too well. :D

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #75 on: April 04, 2017, 03:06:33 pm »
Here's the orange I'm considering if I go paint vs vinyl:




ChanceKJ

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #76 on: April 04, 2017, 03:08:10 pm »
That colour is amazing.

Might want to practice on small sheet to avoid tiger striping it.  I'd keep the cab upright when you do it, multiple coats. Dont try to be a "one coat wonder"

jdbailey1206

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #77 on: April 04, 2017, 03:31:17 pm »
This worked for me when I did the marquee.  A little expensive but the look was amazing. 

I have to say Sjaak that your marquee looks a lot better than what I had purchased for my previous cab.  Where did you get it done?

Foil at https://www.onlineprinters.com/
Plexi at http://www.pixartprinting.com/wide-format/printing-flat-bed-rigid-materials/perspex/

Not sure if they ship to the US

It has been awhile since my last update.  A lot has happened in my personal life and with that I have not had much time to work on my FFJR cab.  No major work has to be done and I am just slowly accumulating all of the artwork.  That being said I purchased the marquee.  I went with Sjaak's advice and went with pixart printing.  Needless to say I was  completely impressed.  I would highly recommend pixart printing if you are looking for a marquee that pops.  Anyway...Enough of me plugging pixart printing.  On to the showcase.   ;D

When I opened the package I was taken aback on how well this resembled a true arcade marquee.  I believe this is how I am going to do marquees from now on.


I could not believe how reflective this was.  But once I pseudo installed it in front of the marquee light it really gave that original look.





By the end of the month I hope to get the control panel and monitor bezel artwork printed out.  After that I am going to send the cab to its permanent home.  More to come.

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #78 on: April 04, 2017, 04:00:15 pm »
Quote
  If its Digital and custom: Brad, If its Repro: one of the three listed above.

Brad did my marquee reverse printed. Which came out AMAZING. I really think he's got that down to a science.


Perfect - I'm going to email Brad now. Thanks for the tip on the tiger-striping.

mwhitney

Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #79 on: April 04, 2017, 05:04:34 pm »
QUESTION:

This has likely been covered to death but I had mapped out my control panel w/ 2 joysticks, 6 buttons per side, a 1/2 player button and a select button for each.

To date, we've been playing Atari games, Tetris, Shinobi, Space Harrier, Mario, DK - that kind of sums it up or at least gives you an idea of the games we're playing. Is the second controller / set of buttons pointless? I don't think we've used the second set for any game so far.

Street Fighter would be great, but I think that's the only game I've played that needed the second set. This will dictate my artwork / control panel layout, so I want to nail this down.

Looking forward to feedback on this!

  
 

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