Favorite wood for arcade cabs?

[DarakuTenshi]

What is your favorite wood to build your cabs out of? I've used both plywood and MDF and I seem to like MDF much more. What are your thoughts?

[thewisteron]

Don't use particle board. I know from experience. Takes a lot more effort to get it smooth if you're painting. Going through this headache right now.

[HaRuMaN]

Laminated plywood.   

[gumby510]

Laminated plywood.   

Where can you gets sheet of that from?


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[yotsuya]

What is your favorite wood to build your cabs out of? I've used both plywood and MDF and I seem to like MDF much more. What are your thoughts?

I wish MDF wasn't so heavy.

[gumby510]

Laminated plywood.   

Where can you gets sheet of that from? Tried home depo they can't order black melamine. Maybe try a cabinet shop?


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[DarakuTenshi]

Don't use particle board. I know from experience. Takes a lot more effort to get it smooth if you're painting. Going through this headache right now.

Yes, the first cab that I built was mostly MDF and not only did I not feel it was very structurally sound, but I hated working with the wood.

Laminated plywood.   

One cab that I worked on I just added laminate to the outside.

What is your favorite wood to build your cabs out of? I've used both plywood and MDF and I seem to like MDF much more. What are your thoughts?

I wish MDF wasn't so heavy.

This is my conundrum.

[bdn103]

You might want to take a look at MDO.

It is much more expensive, but it is basically plywood with a thin layer of MDF on the outside. It is light and strong like plywood, but perfectly smooth and easy to finish like MDF. It also comes pre-primed. The additional costs are easily made up with time and money saved during finishing.

Thanks
Brian




Free arcade cabinet build plans. CNC drawings, CAD drawings, and printable templates. http://www.classicarcadecabinets.com

[equlizer]

Melamine.  No need for painting after

[DarakuTenshi]

You might want to take a look at MDO.

It is much more expensive, but it is basically plywood with a thin layer of MDF on the outside. It is light and strong like plywood, but perfectly smooth and easy to finish like MDF. It also comes pre-primed. The additional costs are easily made up with time and money saved during finishing.

Thanks
Brian

Free arcade cabinet build plans. CNC drawings, CAD drawings, and printable templates. http://www.classicarcadecabinets.com

Never heard of it. I'll have to see if they have that in my area.

[Laythe]

I'm a big fan of 3/4" plywood.  I get 3/4" A/B birch-face at about $65 a sheet at my local home depot, it doesn't have many voids, and it doesn't take an insane amount of work to get an adequatel (not Ond-level) paintjob on it.  It's lighter and stronger, if it ever gets wet it won't become oatmeal, and the sawdust isn't evil.

(Well, ok, it isn't actually 3/4, it's something absurd like 35/48ths inch because plywood sizing is stupid - but it's basically 3/4, close enough that T-mold looks alright.)

[Le Chuck]

I've evolved quite a bit on this, worked in MDF, MDO, particle, hardboard, hardwood plys, and el-cheapo sandply.  My personal fav right now and pretty much from now on - sandeply with laminate over the top.  Works out to be cheaper and lighter and stronger and more water resistant than the other options (not all of those for all the options but at least cheaper once you factor in paint/primer/sand/etc).

If I need to do shaping then MDF is still the best option out there but if it's not going to be complex edges or sculpture it's going to be sandeply with laminate over the top.  Easy peasy.     

[ugleymatt]

I've been using plywood and so far its been an enjoyable experience. Always loved working with wood and this feels close to being that, albeit it manufactured.

[NIVO]

1/2" MDF is mah personal fave. Strong, versatile and a helluva light lighter than 3/4" MDF over an entire large build. MDO is exceptional as its the way alot of folks go when updating cabinets in the house. We use it on job sites and kitchen makeovers and the cost diff is negligible over a large build. Especially considering you value your time as one of the key factors.

[gamepimp]

If you can find it, this stuff is pretty awesome for arcade machines: 

http://www.trupan.com/informacion2.asp?Submenu=2235&cat=3207&fin=3209&idioma=78

It's a type of MDF that is about 1/2 the weight of the regular stuff. It's not cheap, but it's a great smooth substrate if you're going to paint or apply sideart. I've laminated it with good results. However, plywood might be a better alternative when doing that since it is probably cheaper (and easier to come by).

[DarakuTenshi]

Wow, nice to see so many varied responses. Thanks all!

[newimaging]

I've evolved quite a bit on this, worked in MDF, MDO, particle, hardboard, hardwood plys, and el-cheapo sandply.  My personal fav right now and pretty much from now on - sandeply with laminate over the top.  Works out to be cheaper and lighter and stronger and more water resistant than the other options (not all of those for all the options but at least cheaper once you factor in paint/primer/sand/etc).

If I need to do shaping then MDF is still the best option out there but if it's not going to be complex edges or sculpture it's going to be sandeply with laminate over the top.  Easy peasy.   

When you apply laminate onto the Sandeply, which is what I build with, did you prime it or paint it to prep for the Laminate, or glue straight onto the sandeply ?

[Le Chuck]

I've evolved quite a bit on this, worked in MDF, MDO, particle, hardboard, hardwood plys, and el-cheapo sandply.  My personal fav right now and pretty much from now on - sandeply with laminate over the top.  Works out to be cheaper and lighter and stronger and more water resistant than the other options (not all of those for all the options but at least cheaper once you factor in paint/primer/sand/etc).

If I need to do shaping then MDF is still the best option out there but if it's not going to be complex edges or sculpture it's going to be sandeply with laminate over the top.  Easy peasy.   

When you apply laminate onto the Sandeply, which is what I build with, did you prime it or paint it to prep for the Laminate, or glue straight onto the sandeply ?

Glue to wood.  You don't need to prep paint ---- but if you have any areas you aren't going to laminate (inside panel lip by t-molding) rattle can those first. 

[Qawsed11]

I really like using 3/4" mdf. Easy to shape. Strong as heck.

[newimaging]

Thanks, have any of you taken the graphics right up to the edges and then folded them over to be tucked under the T-Molding for clean edges ? How well did that work with rounded edges and scoring them?

[HaRuMaN]

Thanks, have any of you taken the graphics right up to the edges and then folded them over to be tucked under the T-Molding for clean edges ? How well did that work with rounded edges and scoring them?

I do that with all my art.  Rounded edges just slit every few mm and tuck it down. 

[PL1]

Thanks, have any of you taken the graphics right up to the edges and then folded them over to be tucked under the T-Molding for clean edges ? How well did that work with rounded edges and scoring them?

Watch from 8:35- 13:53.   

Scott

[sKott]

Laminated Russian Birch Plywood

sKott