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Author Topic: Sega Monaco GP cockpit help / thoughts  (Read 2124 times)

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dramaone

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Sega Monaco GP cockpit help / thoughts
« on: December 11, 2016, 02:24:12 pm »
I have near on finished my first sit down arcade racer thanks to a lot of help from this forum.
Sit down arcade with a Logitech G27, Sega model 2&3, Outrun Fxt, Cannonball and then many new pc racers.
Im really pleased with it, especially how everything is configured. Again so much information from this forum. Thanks again.
Ive just got to finish a few cosmetics but its nearly there.

Then.... I couldn't resist buying a Sega Monaco GP cockpit and so im learning all over again in terms of hardware.
It had no logic boards, and the monitor was not working so I stripped the monitor out and all power.
I kept all parts just incase one day I come across missing parts but im probably dreaming about that and the reality is its probably above my skill level.

So its now empty leaving essentially the gear shifter, the wheel and pedal.
The plan was to have this cab running only 360 wheel games and was hoping to run the remake of Monaco GP and some mame games.

Ive not got into the what type of shifter needed yet but im struggling to choose the route to go with the steering and pedal to get the most game compatibility.

The wheel is an encoder wheel with opto board pcb. Ive not tested this yet but the board atleast looks intact. The encoder wheel has a bit of play but im hoping I can sort this.
If so is it a case of just powering this and then linking it to an U-hid?
Ive read conflicting threads on this. Some say you can wire straight from original opto board to a U-hid interface then somebody said not because
the original opto boards sends left and right data and speed data to the original game board which decodes it??
Obviously ive not got the game logic board so cant tap into it.
Does it really give out speed data ? or just left and right?

Update - I went for a U-hid nano and replaced the original sega opto board as it was faulty.
Purchased a couple of opto's and resistor from RS, placed them side by side and
all works well on initial test.
Thanks to Andy Wharne from ultimarc.com, he really helped me through replacing the opto's and getting them
to work. Great guy who clearly has patience with noobs like me!


« Last Edit: December 30, 2016, 06:22:38 am by dramaone »