So ... 3d Printers....

[BadMouth]

Very nice!   But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem.  I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict.  Or is this just a safe test?

Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation.  The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.

What you say makes sense. I will see if I can get them moving simultaneously.  If nothing else, I can crank the travel speed.

[BadMouth]

Very nice!   But man, those extruder swaps definitely need to be moving in tandem.  I would think that two motors on the same axis, with the same feed rate and direction with differing destination points, should never result in a conflict.  Or is this just a safe test?

Hmmm.... It's just the order of operations in the tool swap macro which I copied and pasted from the Klipper documentation.  The only other Klipper based IDEX system I saw behaves the same way.

What you say makes sense. I will see if I can get them moving simultaneously.  If nothing else, I can crank the travel speed.

Not only was I not able to get both carriages moving at the same time, the switch got even slower once I attempted to print larger objects.
To prevent oozing, Cura drops the hotend temperature of the inactive toolhead to whatever holding temperature is specified in filament properties.
The next time the toolhead is called up, it doesn't move until it comes back up to filament melting temperature.
Easy enough to tweak the holding temperature, but it is one of many things I did not see coming.
Eventually I plan to have some type of plate over the nozzle while it is parked.

Printing seemed to work fine in my short test last week, but now I keep getting layer shifts.  All the belts are tight, but at some point in the print where the toolhead is performing extremely harsh and quick movements, I can hear belts jump teeth and the layer shifts diagonally.  Everything seems tight.  The Y drive motors don't have a flat spot for the pulley's grub screw, but if that were slipping I don't think the belt would make noise.  It's a similar sound to when one of the motors is backwards and fighting the others.  If I slow the print down to 30mm/s with 60mm/s infill, it doesn't happen.  Everything keeps getting slower.    I am going to grind flats on the Y drives and look for mechanical causes.  I will also also swap the drivers around.  Already tried cranking up the current and it made no difference.

The one thing that has worked out well is using HIPS filament as support material.  ABS and ASA hardly stick to it.  It holds well enough to stay in place, but peels right off when pulled.
I wasn't looking forward to buying expensive solvent to dissolve it.  It turns out that solvent will only be necessary in cases where there are internal supports that can't be reached.

[RandyT]

I get the feeling that a gcode post-processor is in your future.  Filament drool is always going to be an issue with a dual hot-end setup, which means cool-downs, heat-ups, primes and maybe even nozzle wipes.  All of which introduce slow-downs. The X1 Carbon (coming soon) actually swaps filaments on the fly, with purging and wiping steps between.  It's a very fast Core X-Y printer, so the swaps tend to be absorbed somewhat into the overall print time, but at the cost of wasted material.  I'd suspect that leaving the hot-ends up to temp, with a short purge/prime and wiping blade might be the best bet for swaps.  If the gcode interpreter sees the extruder assembly motion as X1 and X2, one would think that substituting something like G0 F<feedrate> X1<park position> X2<print position> would get them moving in tandem.  The PP would need to be able to identify a swap, and set the positions accordingly, depending on which head was doing the printing. 

The bright side of this is that the world would be your oyster once you had a framework for doing this, as any custom actions (wiping, priming, etc.) could be wedged into the same space.

As for your other issue, be careful of stepper motor resonance.  Not saying that this is your issue, but if you are operating in the resonance band for the motors, it could cause problems.  Decreasing or even increasing the speeds could help in this case.  Honestly though, it sort of sounds like an acceleration/jerk problem.  Unfortunately, if that's what's going on, the only way other than reducing the overall speed of the movements is to reduce the weight and/or stiffen some of your components.  While I like the idea of these massive, heavy duty machines, I think they start to get so large and heavy that some of the pitfalls of CNC routers start to appear on them.

[BadMouth]

I followed a couple people trying to use filament swaps for dissolvable supports, but they claimed that the parts turned out weak due to contamination from the support material no matter how much they purged.
They were engineers so I assume then knew what they were talking about, which is why I went down the IDEX path.
The Qidi iFast looks to have what I want, but I can't spend that much on another printer after building the Vorons.

I ground flats on the Y motors and added a shim behind where the belts are attached to make them tighter.
Just did a test print and had a shift and a shift back! 

I think it is something to do with the Y motors.  It just dawned on me that both are running off the same driver, so they may be starving for power.
That and they are unknown scrap motors pulled out of an original monoprice mini select.
I upped the vref voltage to what the driver board can handle and am giving it another go.

If that doesn't work, I'll put them on separate drivers.

[RandyT]

I followed a couple people trying to use filament swaps for dissolvable supports, but they claimed that the parts turned out weak due to contamination from the support material no matter how much they purged.
They were engineers so I assume then knew what they were talking about, which is why I went down the IDEX path.

This is where a wiper comes in (guessing they didn't add one).  A thin piece of silicone at the edge of the print volume and over which the nozzle must pass would go a long way to counteract drool contamination.

I think it is something to do with the Y motors.  It just dawned on me that both are running off the same driver, so they may be starving for power.

Believe it or not, that makes resonance even more likely the culprit.  Even though it is done often on the Z-axis, it's considered bad practice to connect two motors to a single driver.  With small and seldom moves it can be gotten away with, but when the motors resonate they can fight each other as they will not be resonating in sync with one another.

Or it could be a power issue   Either way, giving each motor it's own driver would be a good step to take.

[BadMouth]

I messed around with power output with not much variance.  I got pretty honed in on the layer it was happening and there was a distinct "thud" sound every time.

Disconnected one of the Y motors and it prints fine with no layer shift.

Next step is to put it on a separate driver and limit switch, which was the eventual plan anyway.

[BadMouth]

Believe it or not, that makes resonance even more likely the culprit.  Even though it is done often on the Z-axis, it's considered bad practice to connect two motors to a single driver.  With small and seldom moves it can be gotten away with, but when the motors resonate they can fight each other as they will not be resonating in sync with one another.

Or it could be a power issue   Either way, giving each motor it's own driver would be a good step to take.

Putting them on separate drivers seems to have done the trick.   
Motors seem a lot noisier.  I'll turn the voltages back down.

[pbj]

I just broke down and spent way too much money on a professionally made wall plate for the gameroom.  Looks finished now, though.

Who can print this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862

[PL1]

I just broke down and spent way too much money on a professionally made wall plate for the gameroom.  Looks finished now, though.

Who can print this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3407862

Do you want it in yellow, red, green, blue, gray, or black PLA?


Scott

[pbj]

What’s the cheapest?

[PL1]

What’s the cheapest?

No worries.  It's on the house.   

Which color(s) do you want?
- From what I've read, gray is a tiny bit weaker than the other colors, otherwise same same.

I assume you're still at the same mailing address, right? (Houston, TX  77071)


Scott

[pbj]

PM sent

 

[eds1275]

I recently picked up an Anycubic Kobra. I have made an army of house hippos, the default owl test project, a penis raptor for a friend (look it up... wtf?) and am now working on some X-Men stuff for my daughter's Halloween costume (she's gonna be storm!) and mine (Mr. Freeze from Batman) plus some coasters with the logo of my friend's business on them. She makes all my swag and clothing for my company (t-shirts, key rings, stickers,  lanyards, pens, even a stencil so I can label my gear quickly.)

I've also designed a bunch of cookie cutters since the colder weather is coming and we will be doing more baking.

[BadMouth]

Awesome!  I'm glad you finally jumped in.

[yotsuya]

My daughter is taking a History of Film class and fell in love with a specific genre. I am printing a replica of a famous movie prop and will post it here when done.


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[nitrogen_widget]

I recently picked up an Anycubic Kobra. I have made an army of house hippos, the default owl test project, a penis raptor for a friend (look it up... wtf?) and am now working on some X-Men stuff for my daughter's Halloween costume (she's gonna be storm!) and mine (Mr. Freeze from Batman) plus some coasters with the logo of my friend's business on them. She makes all my swag and clothing for my company (t-shirts, key rings, stickers,  lanyards, pens, even a stencil so I can label my gear quickly.)

I've also designed a bunch of cookie cutters since the colder weather is coming and we will be doing more baking.

nice.
I have the Vyper and the Chiron.
Chiron is in a pile waiting for winter to work on.

I did print a fallout power armor helmet for my kid for Halloween on the Vyper though.
it had to be printed in 8 pieces (chiron would of handled it whole)  . i tried using a 3d pen to fill the seams and it worked ok but using the squeeze epoxy from home depot and a business card cut to the curve of the helmet is working way better.

i'm also thinking of making the pip boy for him.
i've got a touch screen, rpi zero 2, and all the hardware needed to bolt it together.
he mainly wants it to play the fallout music while he's out with friends.
so i may attempt this without telling him so he isn't let down.

back up is $30 fake pip-boy that doesn't do anything but light up from the spirit store.
but i can give him a BT speaker and he can load the music on his phone.

[yotsuya]

Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.




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[bobbyb13]

Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.




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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
Love that.
How much does the little beast weigh?

[yotsuya]

Here you go - printed in 3 parts to make an exact size replica.




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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
Love that.
How much does the little beast weigh?

It’s actually pretty light, because it’s hollow. It was printed in three pieces, and I plan to fill it with sand before I seal it up.


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[BadMouth]

That would be a good candidate for printing in ABS and acetone smoothing.  It would look even more original.
EDIT: Andy shiny!

[nitrogen_widget]

That would be a good candidate for printing in ABS and acetone smoothing.  It would look even more original.
EDIT: Andy shiny!

5% octo infill, twice as many walls, heat lamp over the printer.
wait, doesn't he have an enclosure?

[nitrogen_widget]

so fallout helmet is just too ginormous for my kid.
he looks like a bobble head.
so I measured his head and measured the helmet i printed and i'm scaling down to 90% and reprinting.

edit:
got most of the helmet printed and glued (badly) at the smaller size and we have a winner.
i'm just bad at gluing but i think i can fix that spot with some epoxy filler and liquid steel putty.
I just could not get those sides in the middle to touch no matter how hard i pushed.
this was done in PET-G with a .4mm nozzle at .28 layer height to shave a few hrs off print time.

[nitrogen_widget]

not exactly cos-play quality.
but he got a lot of compliments at school and the bad resin fill job doesn't show up as much in person.

[gamepimp]

So it looks like there's a new kid in town. Has anyone been following the Bambu Lab printers? From what I've seen on YouTube and social media they are built very well and come fully assembled, are fairly affordable for what they offer, and can print in multiple colors at crazy speeds. I have a Creality CR-10S Pro which is a nice printer and has served me well, but I'm really tempted to pick up the X1 Carbon to replace it. The only downside is that the bed is slightly smaller. If anyone happens to have one or knows someone who does it would be cool to get some feedback.

[RandyT]

I was pretty impressed when I first saw these printers.  Looks like a lot of engineering and capability for the buck. 

That said, nothing is perfect. While I have no specific experience with the printers, there seems to be some disgruntled owners who don't seem to be happy with the carbon fiber rods.  While they are light and probably the very thing which gets them to move so quickly, I have my doubts about their suitability for a wear surface over stainless. 

Could be a non-concern, but if I were you, I would look into this by gathering comments from long-time users, and decide whether or not this is a real thing before deciding.  There must be something to it, as the company has released a "how to clean" video for them.  This makes me concerned that the surface is wearing and gunking up the bearing, leading to jams.  But again, who knows for sure?

[gamepimp]

I was pretty impressed when I first saw these printers.  Looks like a lot of engineering and capability for the buck. 

That said, nothing is perfect. While I have no specific experience with the printers, there seems to be some disgruntled owners who don't seem to be happy with the carbon fiber rods.  While they are light and probably the very thing which gets them to move so quickly, I have my doubts about their suitability for a wear surface over stainless. 

Could be a non-concern, but if I were you, I would look into this by gathering comments from long-time users, and decide whether or not this is a real thing before deciding.  There must be something to it, as the company has released a "how to clean" video for them.  This makes me concerned that the surface is wearing and gunking up the bearing, leading to jams.  But again, who knows for sure?

I have seen many comments on Reddit about the need to clean those carbon fiber rods when prints start looking bad. They must gunk up regularly. If it’s the actual rod wearing down that could be a huge problem long term. I’m not a big fan of being an early adopter for this very reason and will probably wait until these printers have been out for at least a year before I decide whether or not to pick one up.

FWIW the Prusa XL also looks like another promising new printer, but details on it have been pretty limited so far. Would be nice if it ended up printing as fast as the Bambu printers…

[nitrogen_widget]

bought a refurb Longer lk5 pro.
300x300 bed.
won't finish a print.
they sent me new parts including a mainboard.
it just stopped 20hrs in. acting like it lost power.
it didn't.
then it does it again a few hrs later and each time it does it it takes less time until it can't print more than a few mins before claiming it lost power.
feels like a heat issue.

according to the FB groups Longer has really poor quality control on their mainboards and it took multiple mainboards sent to them before the problem was fixed.
i bought it just before chinese NY so i've had a printer for months that doesn't work.
waiting weeks for each new part.

was going to just send it back then decided to grab a SKR-PICO and convert it to Klipper.
I have the pico loaded with klipper.
have the pico default config and have a lk5 pro config from the manufacturer.
going to add the printer specific stuff to the default config and then start testing running it off an old laptop with linux.

everything should be fine.

[pbj]

7 years later and none of you has a 3D printer that works.

Peak BYOAC.

 

[HaRuMaN]

Mine is still working 

Prusa FTW

[nitrogen_widget]

I have multiple 3d printers that work.
they are just too small for some of the models i want to print.

[RandyT]

I have multiple 3d printers that work.

Yeah, nobody complains when things are working like they are supposed to.  I think I've put 10lbs of filament through my upgraded Ender3 without a bad print...well, at least none which were the printer's fault.

[pbj]

No pics = no prints

[RandyT]

No pics = no prints

Buckeyes fan?   

[nitrogen_widget]

No pics = no prints

I've been printing up 15mm and 28/32 mm terrain pieces for tabletop games to sell.
these are 15mm scale.

[pbj]

Can you print me a set of blue ships for the table top game Plunder?  I may resort to spray paint.

[nitrogen_widget]

Can you print me a set of blue ships for the table top game Plunder?  I may resort to spray paint.

can't find a model specifically but i could probably clear the deck on this and add some holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16419

i'd need size of holes and dimensions of the ships.
need to see how the model scales.

Also, i take it the game is decent?
was looking at it a while back.

[RandyT]

No pics = no prints

You asked for it 

So I picked up a relatively cheap-ish S20 Ultra with a cracked back for a DIY handheld experiment.  There's a couple of screen digs, but they aren't visible with the screen on.  Everything else was in perfect working condition, including the amazing 6.9" OLED screen, which is bright and has zero burn-in, and the fancy cameras.  But due to the splintery glass cracks on the back I needed to put a case on it.  Unfortunately, even the thinnest one I could find which would still even out the camera hump, made it too thick to fit the channels in the BT controller I had laying around from a years-gone-by AliExpress Winter sale.  Even though it worked, it looked and felt janky, and I was worried the S20 would fall out.

3D printing to the rescue.

I'm especially proud of this one.  Not only is it the largest thing I've printed to date, bed-width wise, it was "one and done" from design to print, which is something which almost always eludes me.  Now, everything is solidly locked into place and it feels like a one-piece unit when assembled.  The fancy cameras are even still clear and the buttons on the game controller can be used to snap photos.

[BadMouth]

So I picked up a relatively cheap-ish S20 Ultra with a cracked back for a DIY handheld experiment. 

Check out ReDream emulator if you haven't already.
PPSSPP as well, but I assume you already know about that one.

Since I'm posting in this thread....pic of sink trays.
(kitchen is WIP, hence the melamine scrap countertop.)
EDIT: Also printed jigs to mount the cabinet hardware.

[nitrogen_widget]

so lk5pro psu replacement was a bust.
going with klipper and skr pico main board.
rpi zero 2 will be the brains along with a 3.5" rpi touch screen.

I have a rock64 i was going to use but i could only get the display on the screen without touch which honestly i'd be better off using an old tablet.

so installing klipper now on the zero 2. have klipper installed on the pico.
have pico default config and have a klipper config file from longer.
so i'll match pins up to function and start with the mesh leveling.
I do have a real BLtouch which bolts on but..babysteps.
I get good adhesion doing the manual leveling.
will update as i have time to work on this.


also..umm bought a sidewinder X2 with 300x300 bed and direct drive.
it was on sale.
i need a large printer now to get some of my models done so...
it prints really nice, has auto leveling with some bltouch type thing.
i had to get it close manually then i ran the auto and its printing great also.

[RandyT]

....pic of sink trays.

That's a slick use of otherwise wasted space.  Nice work!