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Author Topic: So ... 3d Printers....  (Read 162218 times)

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Vigo

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1080 on: April 18, 2021, 01:56:41 pm »
Thanks, BadMouth! Yeah, I will keep a backup as soon as I can confirm the settings are all good. I have a hunch I might need a few tweaks because I was shooting at the hip on a couple of the settings.

Hope for your sake the Voron is pretty plug and play, but after watching you guys hash out your builds, I am getting the impression you are going to finish up with the technical knowledge to start your own line of 3d Printers. I'd back your kickstarter.  :lol


BadMouth

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1081 on: April 18, 2021, 07:25:01 pm »
Kept the printers running last night and today printing pegboard accessories for the RC/3D printing area of my home office.  Still a work in progress, but nice to have this stuff up off the desk.

nitrogen_widget

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1082 on: April 24, 2021, 01:54:39 pm »
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD

yotsuya

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1083 on: April 24, 2021, 03:40:03 pm »
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


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nitrogen_widget

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1084 on: April 24, 2021, 05:40:14 pm »
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html



yotsuya

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1085 on: April 24, 2021, 05:59:21 pm »
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
Nice, thanks for the link!!


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***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

yotsuya

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1086 on: April 30, 2021, 04:55:55 pm »
Just an Fyi for those who think they will want an octopi server for their new printers.
I bought a couple of these and they run it swimmingly.
Im using the diet pi os and its built-in installer.
$20 shipped.
Comes in a case, sdcard, and power supply.
Will need a heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868WSTXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7CG39KDY1A30Q3QNFJD
Well, I just ordered one for the hell of it. You got any more information on what I can run on it? Might be good for a little project computer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for starters, when you get it you will wonder "huh?" because it's actually some kind of network device.
you need to take the case apart to get to rock64.

recallbox runs on it pretty good.
armbian does also.
they have the video drivers.

dietpi does not.
most of the OS images out in the wild are a yr old because this card has been out for almost 5yrs and the pro version is what people are mostly supporting.
it appears to be roughly the same speed as an RPI3 (not the b).

the lack of current support for this board made me decide to just toss diet-pi on it and go with octoprint.
the diet pi distro has A LOT of software designed to make this an appliance.
web servers, media servers, home automation, wifi node, minecraft servers (I might use one to pull double duty for the kids)
too much to list.

https://dietpi.com/dietpi-software.html
The device showed up today, canít wait to mess with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Vigo

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1087 on: May 03, 2021, 07:59:41 am »
For those of you with those flexible magnetic beds, are the bases that adhere to the printer plate pretty thin and heat conductive? I am considering getting one, but I have a few glass beds I swap in depending on print need, and don't want to lose use of that. I also saw a person just not adhering it to their bed, just clipped in, is that feasible?

BadMouth

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1088 on: May 03, 2021, 11:42:57 am »
For those of you with those flexible magnetic beds, are the bases that adhere to the printer plate pretty thin and heat conductive? I am considering getting one, but I have a few glass beds I swap in depending on print need, and don't want to lose use of that. I also saw a person just not adhering it to their bed, just clipped in, is that feasible?

My experience is very limited, but here it is.
I installed it normally on an anycubic mega s.  It took the shape of the heated bed, which was not flat enough to suit me.
It had high spots and low spots to where I could not find a happy medium.  This was not the fault of the flexible plate as it was just conforming to the heated bed underneath.
The first order of business would be to figure out if the plate the magnetic sheet adheres to is flat or warps when heated.

So I removed the magnet and adhesive which was a PITA.  Left without a magnet, I tried clipping the flexible sheet to a glass bed.
It worked, but the thin sheet would warp very slightly when heated.
Not sure how much trouble it was causing, but this is not the way to go.

In retrospect, I think the best solution for that particular setup (where the underlying bed is not flat) would have been to adhere the magnetic sheet to a piece of glass. 
Even though it's more material for the heat to get through, at least it would be flat.  I have not spent the money on another magnetic sheet to try it.

I still think a PEI coated spring steel sheet is the way to go and have already purchased one for my Voron build. (frame finally supposed to ship tomorrow)
The machined heated bed is flat on that though, so I don't anticipate any of the problems I had on the Mega.

The ultrabase on the Mega has worked well, especially when sprayed with aquanet hairspray.  For the ABS parts I printed, it sucked having to wait for the bed to cool enough for the parts to release (20-30min).  Then I had to wait for the bed to heat back up to 100 degrees before the next part would start printing.  With a flexible sheet, I could have kept the printer warm and running.


Vigo

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1089 on: May 03, 2021, 01:16:40 pm »
I appreciate the full response.  :cheers:  Didn't think about warping. It wouldn't take much to create a whole new issue. I think I will stick with my current setup for now, until I feel everything else is dialed in. One less variable to worry about.

Howard_Casto

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1090 on: May 04, 2021, 01:20:05 am »
Ok I've got a new question for the peanut gallery.....   Has anyone tried polysmooth?    I ran across it the other day.   Supposedly it's a pla but when you put it in an enclosed space and spray it with alcohol it melts and smooths the print similar to how abs melts with acetone.

nitrogen_widget

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1091 on: May 04, 2021, 08:12:13 am »
Ok I've got a new question for the peanut gallery.....   Has anyone tried polysmooth?    I ran across it the other day.   Supposedly it's a pla but when you put it in an enclosed space and spray it with alcohol it melts and smooths the print similar to how abs melts with acetone.

i've never heard of this stuff.
youtube has.
this guy has a chamber to put the model in.



looks straight out of sci-fi.

BadMouth

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1092 on: May 04, 2021, 09:46:40 pm »
I've been waiting for someone to test fans like this:


results

Oddly enough, this came out just after I installed a Winsinn fan on the Mega.
All seemed well until this weekend when it was 80 degrees in the house instead of 65.
It kept under-extruding part way into each print.  When it did it sooner in the print on each consecutive attempt, I figured it was heat creep.
Back to the original fan (with a non-original toolhead and hotend) and things are working fine again.
The V6 heatsink felt cool to the touch, but I guess internally the heat was creeping up too far.
EDIT: After swapping fans and it working correctly again, I also removed the silicone sock since it was basically creating a seal between the heater block and bottom of the heatsink.

I also bought Winsinn fans for the Voron based on the sourcing guide.
Guess I'll tack another new fan onto the build cost.
Misumi extrusion was supposed to ship today and did not. 
If it doesn't ship tomorrow I am going to call and see about just getting clear anodized extrusion if black is going to take much longer.

EDIT: Misumi extrusion shipped on time and arrived in two days.  Anxious to get started, but have other obligations.  Preloaded some t-nuts and arranged the parts.  Hopefully will assemble frame tomorrow, but rest will wait until next week.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2021, 09:26:46 pm by BadMouth »

BadMouth

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1093 on: May 09, 2021, 02:17:28 pm »
Frame and motion systems done.  Belts installed, but not trimmed.  Installed heating element and magnetic sheet on build plate, but it is not bolted down yet.

At first I was upset that the magnet and spring steel sheet didn't cover the entire build plate, then I realized that is was not undersized, the build plate is oversized (14").

The aluminum composite panels are worth the price.  I was afraid they'd just be cheap foamboard with super thin aluminum on the surface.  The aluminum is pretty thick and the surface finish is perfect.  The silver edges where it was cut bothered me so I hit them with a paint pen.

Not sure how fast wiring and software will go, as I don't enjoy those things as much as building.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2021, 02:23:35 pm by BadMouth »

yotsuya

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1094 on: May 10, 2021, 02:44:34 pm »
Looks great, dude! Excited to see your progress!


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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1095 on: May 12, 2021, 05:35:24 pm »
For anyone who missed Marsupial's  Build your own HID-mouse compatible spinner project, here are two parametric mounts created in OpenSCAD.



The first one has a chamfered bezel.
- The OpenSCAD code generates a model with both the nut and the mount.
- The .zip files linked below reorient the mount so it is print-ready. (i.e. face down)
- Be sure to download the .zip files for both the desired mount and the nut.  The mount .zip files do not include the nut.







Code: [Select]
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363

// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P    - screw thread pitch
// D    - screw thread major diameter
// h    - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//

module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);

translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}

module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;

for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);

translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}

module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1;          // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2;           // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4;         // Mount plate/bezel thickness
BezelTopDia = 50;         // Bezel top diameter
BezelBottomDia = 55;      // Bezel bottom diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21;     // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45;   // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45;      // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15;       // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40;      // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64;         // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4;         // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02;        // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70;          // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////

// Mount
    // Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick, d1=BezelBottomDia, d2=BezelTopDia,center=true); // Bezel/mount plate

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 0])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 120])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 240])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole

    } // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
    // Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
        thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder

        translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
        cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top

    } // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//   
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
    hull() {  // Nut Body
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 0])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 60])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 120])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 180])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 240])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 300])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
    } // End nut body
//
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
    scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
    thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//

The second one  has a rounded bezel.
- The OpenSCAD code generates a model with both the nut and the mount.
- The .zip files linked below reorient the mount so it is print-ready. (i.e. face down)
- Be sure to download the .zip files for both the desired mount and the nut.  The mount .zip files do not include the nut.



Code: [Select]
// Rotary encoder mount and nut created using thread library found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363

// Metric Screw Thread Library
// by Maximilian Karl <karlma@in.tum.de> (2012)
//
//
// only use module thread(P,D,h,step)
// with the parameters:
// P    - screw thread pitch
// D    - screw thread major diameter
// h    - screw thread height
// step - step size in degree
//

module screwthread_triangle(P) {
difference() {
translate([-sqrt(3)/3*P+sqrt(3)/2*P/8,0,0])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=sqrt(3)/3*P,h=0.00001,$fn=3,center=true);

translate([0,-P/2,-P/2])
cube([P,P,P]);
}
}

module screwthread_onerotation(P,D_maj,step) {
H = sqrt(3)/2*P;
D_min = D_maj - 5*sqrt(3)/8*P;

for(i=[0:step:360-step])
hull()
for(j = [0,step])
rotate([0,0,(i+j)])
translate([D_maj/2,0,(i+j)/360*P])
screwthread_triangle(P);

translate([0,0,P/2])
cylinder(r=D_min/2,h=2*P,$fn=360/step,center=true);
}

module thread(P,D,h,step) {
for(i=[0:h/P])
translate([0,0,i*P])
screwthread_onerotation(P,D,step);
}
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Variables:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
ThreadPitch = 1;          // Screw thread pitch
ThreadMajorDiameter = 49; // Screw thread major diameter
ThreadedRodHeight = 23.8; // Threaded rod height
ThreadStep = 2;           // Thread step size in degrees
PlateThick = 2.4;         // Mount plate/bezel thickness
Roundover = 2.2;          // Bezel roundover, must be less than PlateThick
BezelDia = 55;            // Bezel diameter
BezelCenterHole = 21;     // Bezel center hole
ScrewHoleBottom = 3.45;   // Bottom of screw hole diameter
ScrewHoleTop = 3.45;      // Top of screw hole diameter, for non-countersunk screws use same value as ScrewHoleBottom
ScrewDistance = 15;       // Distance from center of shaft to center of screw hole, usually 14 or 15
CenterCylinder = 40;      // Center cylinder diameter
NutDiameter = 64;         // Nut diameter (point-to-point)
NutThickness = 4;         // Nut thickness
WiggleRoom = 1.02;        // Scale multiplier for threaded rod X-axis and Y-axis that allows nut to turn easier
NutOffsetX = 70;          // X-axis offset distance of nut
//
// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.
//
////////////////////////////////////////////
//
// Make the part:
//
////////////////////////////////////////////

// Mount
    // Bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
    difference() {

        minkowski() // Apply roundover to cylinder
        {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight])
        cylinder(d=(BezelDia)-(Roundover*2),h=(PlateThick) - Roundover); // Bezel/mount plate body
        sphere(r=Roundover); // Roundover
        }

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cube([BezelDia + 20, BezelDia + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim bottom of bezel/mount plate body

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 0])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 1

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 120])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 2

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        rotate ([0, 0, 240])
        translate ([ScrewDistance, 0, 0])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.01, d1=ScrewHoleBottom, d2=ScrewHoleTop,center=true); // Screw hole 3

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight + (PlateThick/2)])
        cylinder (PlateThick + 0.1, d=BezelCenterHole,center=true); // Center hole

    } // End bezel/mount plate minus screw holes and center hole
//
    // Threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
    difference() {
        translate ([0, 0, ThreadPitch/2])
        thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod

        translate ([0, 0, ThreadedRodHeight/2])
        cylinder (ThreadedRodHeight + 20, d=CenterCylinder,center=true); // Center cylinder

        translate ([0, 0, (ThreadedRodHeight * 1.5) + 0.01])
        cube([ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadMajorDiameter + 20, ThreadedRodHeight], center=true); // Trim top

    } // End threaded rod minus center cylinder and trim top
//   
// Nut
difference() { // Nut body minus threaded rod
    hull() {  // Nut Body
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 0])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 60])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 120])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 180])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 240])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);

    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, NutThickness/2])
    rotate ([0, 0, 300])
    translate ([NutDiameter/2, 0, 0])
    cylinder (NutThickness, d = 0.01, center=true);
    } // End nut body
//
    translate ([NutOffsetX, 0, - ThreadPitch])
    scale([WiggleRoom, WiggleRoom, 1])
    thread(ThreadPitch, ThreadMajorDiameter, ThreadedRodHeight, ThreadStep); // Threaded rod
//
} // End nut body minus threaded rod
//

Installation instructions:
1. Drill a 2"/50mm hole in your 3/4" thick (or less) control panel.

2. Fasten the mount to the CP using the nut.
- Keep in mind that it is very easy to cross-thread if the nut isn't kept level.
- Use the "turn the nut backward until you hear a click then turn it forward" trick to avoid cross-threading.



3. Fasten the encoder to the mount using M3-0.5 x 8mm screws.



4. Install the knob.
---------------------------------------------
Links to .ZIPped, ready-to-print .STL files made using the OpenSCAD code above:

    Chamfered mount - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387887

    Nut - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387888

    Roundover mount - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387889

*** Be sure to download both the desired mount and the nut. (the mount .zip files do not include the nut) ***


Scott
« Last Edit: May 17, 2021, 03:36:15 am by PL1 »

BadMouth

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1096 on: June 06, 2021, 07:28:50 pm »
Finally wrapped up the wiring on the Voron (hopefully).
Observations:

I flipped the main power supply so the mains voltage is toward the center.  If arranged like in the manual, a finger stuck through the holes in the skirting could touch 110v.

I don't like the Molex microfit connectors and would not use them again.  The plastic housings are ok, but for some reason neither the hotend or part cooling fan would work when testing with a battery.  Something was wrong with the connector on the fan side, so I redid it.  Second attempt didn't fare any better.  Not sure if I was breaking the wires on the crimp or what.  Switch to JST SYP connectors and had no issues.   Hoping it was just the tiny fan wires since everything else including the hotend is still using the Molex connectors.  It is a PITA to get the pins to slide into the housings when using silicone wire....like trying to push the pin with a wet noodle.

Per the wiring diagram power is supplied to the Raspberry Pi via GPIO pins.  There is a warning that this involves some risk, but you are "unlikely" to have a problem.  I hacked a charging cable and used the actual power input.  They should just add a USB C charging pigtail to the BOM.

After laying out the wire, I decided to go with all black and red wiring on the top side.  The black 4 conductor ribbon cable really shined here.  I had several runs of it, but it was easy to tell what was what with a multimeter.  Limit switches were wired NC.  Inductive sensor had one wire removed, so only 3 conductors on that one.  With the steppers, you only really need one conductor referenced then the rest of the ribbon can be placed in order.  Only downside was trying to push pins into Molex Microfit connectors with the super soft silicone wire.  The JST connectors on the PCB end weren't nearly as difficult.

I flipped the connectors on the LCD, but the wiring would have worked out a bit better if I had flipped them on the SKR board instead.

Haven't set up software or powered it up yet.  Not sure if firmware should have been set up before making all these connections, but that is a project for another day.



« Last Edit: June 06, 2021, 07:37:17 pm by BadMouth »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1097 on: June 07, 2021, 09:46:01 am »
I've gone back a few pages and I'm not seeing anything about it, so I feel safe to ask how you were able to mount those components on what appears to be the bottom of this? I'm not seeing obvious connections for some rail-mounting system, so I'm suspecting magnets. Thinking this could be an effective way to mount items inside an MDF cabinet.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1098 on: June 07, 2021, 09:55:22 am »
Yeah mounting that power supply in an enclosed place like that makes me nervous, especially considering one of mine had a meltdown in the past.   I mean it should be fine but you never know.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1099 on: June 07, 2021, 11:09:05 am »
I've gone back a few pages and I'm not seeing anything about it, so I feel safe to ask how you were able to mount those components on what appears to be the bottom of this? I'm not seeing obvious connections for some rail-mounting system, so I'm suspecting magnets. Thinking this could be an effective way to mount items inside an MDF cabinet.

The boards, PI, power supplies, etc. are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.  And those DIN rails mount to the black 2020 aluminum extrusion rails that you can see at the bottom in the second photo.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1100 on: June 07, 2021, 11:14:00 am »
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.

Thanks for the info. Apologies if there is a better place to ask this. How are the components (PCBs etc.) attached to the DIN rail?

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1101 on: June 07, 2021, 11:55:43 am »
...are all mounted to those two silver DIN rails.

Thanks for the info. Apologies if there is a better place to ask this. How are the components (PCBs etc.) attached to the DIN rail?

It uses spring loaded clips.  If you push the item to one side to compress the spring, the opposite side of the clip is given enough clearance to be lifted off the rail.
The clip on the solid state relay is metal and was purchased.  The clips for the rest of the items were 3D printed. 
The rails I received were kind of thin, so I had to add a piece of duct tape so the clips fit tight enough to prevent sliding.

Here is a youtube video that came up in my feed recently, but I haven't watched it.  Looks like it provides the info you are looking for:


Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1102 on: June 07, 2021, 12:13:58 pm »
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)

I got all the parts now I've lost interest in building it.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1103 on: June 13, 2021, 07:19:01 pm »
Installed software on the Voron today.  It wasn't that bad, but I was annoyed by having to install and learn a bunch of tools that weren't already in my wheelhouse.  If you are already familiar with Pi and networking tools to manipulate files on the Pi then it will go very quickly.

I completed all the various calibrations and tunings without incident until the last friggin' one.  All that was left to do was calculate e-steps, probably the easiest thing.  Extruder makes a grinding noise, but does not move filament.  Turning the big gear with my finger moves filament.  Probably something stupid like the grub screw on the motor....

Done for today.  Next time it should be laying down plastic.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1104 on: June 13, 2021, 07:41:22 pm »
Gil, how is your build going? (or how did it go if already completed)

I got all the parts now I've lost interest in building it.

go ahead and send them to me, I'll build it :)
If you're replying to a troll you are part of the problem.
I also need to follow this advice. Ignore or report, don't reply.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1105 on: June 13, 2021, 09:02:02 pm »
Installed software on the Voron today.  It wasn't that bad, but I was annoyed by having to install and learn a bunch of tools that weren't already in my wheelhouse.  If you are already familiar with Pi and networking tools to manipulate files on the Pi then it will go very quickly.

I completed all the various calibrations and tunings without incident until the last friggin' one.  All that was left to do was calculate e-steps, probably the easiest thing.  Extruder makes a grinding noise, but does not move filament.  Turning the big gear with my finger moves filament.  Probably something stupid like the grub screw on the motor....

Done for today.  Next time it should be laying down plastic.
Nice! I saw my friendís Voron in person yesterday - itís an impressive machine


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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1106 on: June 18, 2021, 09:23:49 pm »
Got the Voron far enough along to melt some plastic.
The problem with the extruder turned out to be the wiring.  I had the wiring wrong on the extruder end, then after correcting it still didn't work because one of the wires had broken at the molex microfit crimp.  Got that fixed and it worked, but filament moved in the wrong direction.  Reversing in printer.cfg didn't work, so I had to rewire yet again.  Same thing happened to Nero3dp on his most recent build, so it wasn't just me. 

It works now except that it doesn't save my z offset.  I will work on that tomorrow.  First print was crap because I had to adjust the z offset on the fly, so I cranked it up to 200% speed.  It was already at a fast draft of 120mm/sec so I guess it was running at 240mm/sec.   Cube looks horrible, but seems dimensionally accurate. I will install the sides and tune tomorrow.

With Mainsail and Klipper, the LCD is kind of pointless.  It displays temps, but the navigation knob doesn't do anything and the button only functions as an emergency stop.  You cannot tune anything on the fly with it.  Everything needs to be done via the web interface.   With Octoprint the LCD would have some functionality.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1107 on: June 19, 2021, 03:09:03 pm »
Finished building the Voron completely with the exception of the interior exhaust grill which I thought I printed, but can't seem to find.
Did some more calibration and setup.

Clicked the update button on Klipper and now nothing works.  :banghead:
I believe I have to redo the firmware for the SKR boards which means I have to move the machine (which is harder now that the plexi is installed), remove the bottom panel, & remove the SD cards from them.

Dealing with crap like this is what I was hoping to avoid by following someone else's plans.  :angry:


EDIT: and now one of the Z stepper motors seems to have taken a dump.  Odd that it would coincide with the software thing, but I swapped leads on the stepper motors around and they all work fine on any output except this one. This is a horrible hobby.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2021, 04:20:22 pm by BadMouth »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1108 on: June 19, 2021, 06:01:26 pm »
Meh.  Redid the firmware on the SKR boards and they seem to work as before.
Stepper motor turned out to be a wire that broke at the crimp.  Seems to be a theme with me.
Back on track and half a day behind where I wanted to be.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1109 on: June 20, 2021, 05:06:22 pm »
Voron build is now 100% complete. (Anycubic Mega for scale).  Currently printing a ringing tower to tune input shaper.  Not sure what kind of effect sitting on a wobbly plastic table has, but I can always redo it.  I will build a base cabinet.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1110 on: June 29, 2021, 03:15:50 pm »
...

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1111 on: June 29, 2021, 07:05:02 pm »
But what were layer lines?

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1112 on: June 29, 2021, 07:08:33 pm »
...so this happened.  There didn't seem to be any clearance issues when calibrating or doing test prints.  The only thing I can speculate is that this side tweaked from me pushing the ptfe tube back into the toolhead and made the screw heads angle out. The printer self leveling would auto-correct for any height problems.  The clearance is only as much as the weatherstripping is thick.

« Last Edit: June 30, 2021, 09:37:53 am by BadMouth »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1113 on: June 29, 2021, 07:15:17 pm »
But what were layer lines?
Huh?  It's a low res pic.  The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on.  Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.

I bought an accelerometer to tune for resonances, but got tired of working on the thing and having never printed anything on it.

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1114 on: June 30, 2021, 12:21:47 am »
Your Voron looks great, dude!


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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1115 on: June 30, 2021, 07:46:18 am »
First large format print complete (clear petg).  Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done.  I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer.  It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock.  Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.


« Last Edit: June 30, 2021, 08:54:57 am by BadMouth »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1116 on: June 30, 2021, 07:49:44 am »
But what were layer lines?
Huh?  It's a low res pic.  The layer lines are pretty smooth, but are also camouflaged by some vertical artifacts going on.  Not sure if the belts need retightened already or if it has something to do with seeing through the clear petg.

I bought an accelerometer to tune for resonances, but got tired of working on the thing and having never printed anything on it.

I was just trying to say in a clever way it looks great.

should of just said it looks great. lol

Also reminds me, need to reload the wine rack with some bottles of barefoot.
best cheap wine i've had.
and i've tried most because cheap wine is all i buy.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2021, 07:53:17 am by nitrogen_widget »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1117 on: July 01, 2021, 02:08:25 am »
First large format print complete (clear petg).  Not as oem looking as the design in my head, but it got done.  I did concentric infill at just under 100% hoping it would come out clearer.  It isn't clear, but it's solid as a rock.  Someday I'll graduate from Tinkercad to Fusion.



So my understanding is the best you are going to get out of clear filament is sort of opaque frosted and the way you do that is with a lot of sanding and polishing.   

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1118 on: July 02, 2021, 08:39:57 am »
I was putting away some spools of filament this morning and thought I would share my storage method.

   It requires a vacuum sealer.  11" rolls for the vacuum sealer are just large enough for a 1kg filament spool to squeeze into.  The trick is to make the bag extra long so that instead of making a new bag every time the filament is stored, you can just trim off the end and reseal the same bag.

   Toss a dessicant packet in and vacuum seal.  The vacuum is strong enough to deform the spool, so hit the seal button just before the spool is pulled against the vacuum sealer.

From there I put the spool back in the original box it came in, which is much easier to stack or place upright on a shelf.


« Last Edit: July 02, 2021, 08:47:56 am by BadMouth »

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Re: So ... 3d Printers....
« Reply #1119 on: July 02, 2021, 02:41:10 pm »
Nice.   ;D

Turns out that most filament spools *just barely* fit into a 1 gallon ziplock bag if you turn the bag diagonal so the top corners of the bag align with the edges of the spool.

A small (2" diameter) analog hygrometer (humidity meter) like this one is an easy way to see how well your desiccant is -- or isn't -- working.
- It fits inside the hub of most spools.



For desiccant, I like to use two of these small (2" x 1" x 1/2") 10 gram aluminum canisters per spool.
*** Avoid the old, toxic Cobalt Chloride canisters with blue beads. ***
- They fit inside the hub of most spools.
- When the beads turn from orange to dark green, put the canister in the oven for 2 hours @ 250 degrees. (F)
- The only downside is that the top and bottom halves of the canister are not solidly connected.
-- You can easily mod them by drilling out the corner vent holes and using 0.020" lock wire/safety wire.
- The 40 gram versions are more sturdy but are overkill.


Scott