So ... 3d Printers....

[BadMouth]

Oh, and let me know how the e3d v6 upgrade goes. I may or may not go that route myself.


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After watching a bunch of videos, I'm digging the new style hot ends like the slice mosquito that aren't a bunch of cylindrical parts screwed together.  They bolt on straight and don't twist, so you don't have to grab the heater block with channel locks when screwing in a different nozzle (and end up shorting out the thermistor circuit in the process).

After getting educated, it seems to all come down to a smooth bore finish and keeping everything north of the heater block cool.  I'm thinking there are other ways to accomplish this that require elbow grease and less money.

[BadMouth]

Nice. When I get done with this frame update this weekend, the only original parts will be the stepper
motors and the PCB.




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If only I had a working 3D printer, I could print parts to build a new 3D printer......

I think I need two.  Wouldn't have to wait for prints to finish before starting the next one either.

[nitrogen_widget]

After installing a new heatbreak with fresh ptfe liner, the mini select was back up and running with my usual filament.
Tried to print the polaroid pen filament again and it clogged again.  In the process of clearing that, I assume that I damaged the thermistor wires because the temperature showed maxed out.
Shows maxed out even without the thermistor plugged into the main board.  From what I read online, the main board is now bad.
So I have a $60 hotend on the way for a 5 year old $150 printer with a bad board. 

I could swap in a ramps setup (with learning curve), but at this point I'm sick of working on it and sick of spending money on it.
The hotend I ordered is 12v, so it will only work with certain printers.  The return policy (printedsolid) says they only process returns once a month, so a refund might take that long.
ugh......

I'd get an Ender 3, but they are 24v and the whole wheel/guide setup just doesn't seem like a good system to me.
Settled on an Anycube Mega S.  Not as much support for it, but it's ready to print after attaching a few screws and it's 12v so I can still use the e3d v6.

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.

[yotsuya]

Aaaaaaaand I decided to get a 12v e3d v6 as well. Might as well go the distance.

Should be here Saturday!


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[BadMouth]

Aaaaaaaand I decided to get a 12v e3d v6 as well. Might as well go the distance.

Should be here Saturday!


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I could have sold you mine!  Of course it wouldn't get there as fast.  I think I'm going to try a micro swiss heatbreak in the stock hotend before swapping over to the E3D.

I'm starting to regret ordering directly from Anycubic for the sake of warranty and after sales service.
Haven't received anything since the original order confirmation.  Emailed them today and received no response.  A quick google search reveals that this is pretty much par for the course.
No response or shipping information, then the printer will just show up in 3 or 15 or 30 days.  If I can't get in touch with them about whether it has shipped, I can't imagine the warranty service is worth much.
Should have just ordered from a 3rd party seller on Amazon and had it delivered in 2 days.

I'd never heard of the Voron before you mentioned it.  Whenever I get a cheap printer up and running, I'm going to start planning for a Voron. 

[yotsuya]

I'd never heard of the Voron before you mentioned it.  Whenever I get a cheap printer up and running, I'm going to start planning for a Voron.

My friend that built it is very thorough in her research and process. When she decided to get into 3D printing, she went straight for a Prusa and learned on that. She used the Voron recently to print a filter for her telescope, and I was blown away by the quality and complexity of the print. There’s no way my Anet could even approach that. I could probably print a nice spacer block to put under each telescope leg to raise it an inch!

I kid, but that what it felt like! I’m definitely going to start planning for my Voron. I want a nice big 330x330 built platform.

[BadMouth]

We have uploaded the product you bought,
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently

....yeah that thing is still sitting in China.  US warehouse ---my bottom---.
They followed up with a "DHL tracking number" that is actually a UPS tracking number, but I'm betting they've only printed the label.
We'll see if it gets scanned into the UPS system on Monday.

I want to get the MP mini select back up at some point, but have decided that I will not spend any money on parts unless they can be re-used on a Voron build.
I watched some videos on installing Marlin on the SKR v1.3 board the Voron uses and the learning curve doesn't seem bad at all.
Between those and details given in a MP Mini Select to Ramps instructables, I'm pretty sure that I can get the SKR board running the Mini without too much hassle.

So I've ordered the SKR v1.3 board, Fysetc display and 2209 drivers spec'd in the Voron 2.4 BOM with the intention of using them with the mini for now.

EDIT: got an email from UPS that the package is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the tracking number shows not picked up yet.  Email source seems to be legit.  It would be awesome to get it tomorrow.

[yotsuya]

We have uploaded the product you bought,
and we will transport it for you soon, but the tracking number has not yet come out, please wait patiently

....yeah that thing is still sitting in China.  US warehouse ---my bottom---.
They followed up with a "DHL tracking number" that is actually a UPS tracking number, but I'm betting they've only printed the label.
We'll see if it gets scanned into the UPS system on Monday.

I want to get the MP mini select back up at some point, but have decided that I will not spend any money on parts unless they can be re-used on a Voron build.
I watched some videos on installing Marlin on the SKR v1.3 board the Voron uses and the learning curve doesn't seem bad at all.
Between those and details given in a MP Mini Select to Ramps instructables, I'm pretty sure that I can get the SKR board running the Mini without too much hassle.

So I've ordered the SKR v1.3 board, Fysetc display and 2209 drivers spec'd in the Voron 2.4 BOM with the intention of using them with the mini for now.

EDIT: got an email from UPS that the package is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the tracking number shows not picked up yet.  Email source seems to be legit.  It would be awesome to get it tomorrow.

Hah - I started an Amazon with list with Voron parts! I have a $50 gift card I got for Christmas that I think I’m gonna use to buy the six stepper motors.


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[BadMouth]

Mega S got here tonight, but it's still freezing cold from being in the UPS truck so I'm going to let it acclimate before turning it on.
For all my whining, delivery time was only six days.  (the tracking number showed "on way to UPS" up until yesterday)

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.

You weren't kidding.  Every single one needed at least a half turn.

[yotsuya]

Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.


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[BadMouth]

Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.

Comparing the metal frame of this Anycubic Mega S to the 20x20mm extrusion frame of my mini CNC, there is no comparison.
Although thick metal, the stamped steel L flexes like crazy compared to the extrusion which has no noticeable flex.
Extrusions all the way. 

[yotsuya]

Just printing some last minute items, but everything is ready for the transition to the metal frame. I might start as early as today, but really thinking about making it an all-day Saturday project.

Comparing the metal frame of this Anycubic Mega S to the 20x20mm extrusion frame of my mini CNC, there is no comparison.
Although thick metal, the stamped steel L flexes like crazy compared to the extrusion which has no noticeable flex.
Extrusions all the way.

Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I think I got my money’s worth out of this spool of PETG....




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[BadMouth]

Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I had ordered a small piece of extrusion from Amazon to test a few things out on, but after checking Misumi's prices I cancelled and did a larger order from there.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0

Wasn't going to mention it yet, but I dug out some new old stock NSK linear rails that a friend gave me a few years ago for helping them.
Was saving them for a CNC machine, but decided to see if they would work for a 3D printer.  The rails are huge, 40mm wide and thick.  The blocks only have threads for 3mm screws though, so I'm not sure they are fit for a bigger CNC router.  Surely overkill, but man are they smooth.  Zero play also.  Got two 740mm rails with 2 blocks each, so if I cut them in half (gasp), I'll have four <370mm rails.  They are too heavy to be on any moving parts, but could be used for rails that attach to the frame.  I could use them for the Y and Z on a giant Voron 0 or use them all on the Z axis of a Voron 2.4.
Thinking that a 40mm wide guide could be easily aligned on a 2040 extrusion, I ordered $100 worth of stock to play with from Misumi (three 2040x1000, six 2020x1000).

So I'm headed down the road to committing the Voron sins of using the wrong parts and cutting/drilling/tapping my own extrusion.  I don't think it will be that bad.  I'm tapping holes that are already there.  The holes drilled in the extrusion don't need to be precise. They just need to line up well enough for an allen key to reach the head of the button head bolt on the other side.  As far as getting the cuts straight, I have a table saw sled calibrated this way (still plan to keep track of the factory edges and use them on the most important joints):

[yotsuya]

Yeah, I’m excited to get this done. I opted to go a bit longer on the Y Axis, so I ordered some new side extrusions that should be here any minute now. Can’t wait to tear down and start rebuilding!

I had ordered a small piece of extrusion from Amazon to test a few things out on, but after checking Misumi's prices I cancelled and did a larger order from there.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?curSearch=%7b%22field%22%3a%22%40search%22%2c%22seriesCode%22%3a%22110302683830%22%2c%22innerCode%22%3a%22%22%2c%22sort%22%3a1%2c%22specSortFlag%22%3a0%2c%22allSpecFlag%22%3a0%2c%22page%22%3a1%2c%22pageSize%22%3a%2260%22%2c%22stockItemFlag%22%3a%221%22%2c%22fixedInfo%22%3a%22innerCode%3aMDM00001299029%7c121%22%7d&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0

Wasn't going to mention it yet, but I dug out some new old stock NSK linear rails that a friend gave me a few years ago for helping them.
Was saving them for a CNC machine, but decided to see if they would work for a 3D printer.  The rails are huge, 40mm wide and thick.  The blocks only have threads for 3mm screws though, so I'm not sure they are fit for a bigger CNC router.  Surely overkill, but man are they smooth.  Zero play also.  Got two 740mm rails with 2 blocks each, so if I cut them in half (gasp), I'll have four <370mm rails.  They are too heavy to be on any moving parts, but could be used for rails that attach to the frame.  I could use them for the Y and Z on a giant Voron 0 or use them all on the Z axis of a Voron 2.4.
Thinking that a 40mm wide guide could be easily aligned on a 2040 extrusion, I ordered $100 worth of stock to play with from Misumi (three 2040x1000, six 2020x1000).

So I'm headed down the road to committing the Voron sins of using the wrong parts and cutting/drilling/tapping my own extrusion.  I don't think it will be that bad.  I'm tapping holes that are already there.  The holes drilled in the extrusion don't need to be precise. They just need to line up well enough for an allen key to reach the head of the button head bolt on the other side.  As far as getting the cuts straight, I have a table saw sled calibrated this way (still plan to keep track of the factory edges and use them on the most important joints):

Yeah, Misumi is great. Ordered Monday, I already installed the longer pieces. Time to slowly tear down the acrylic frame.


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[nitrogen_widget]

Mega S got here tonight, but it's still freezing cold from being in the UPS truck so I'm going to let it acclimate before turning it on.
For all my whining, delivery time was only six days.  (the tracking number showed "on way to UPS" up until yesterday)

I have an anycubic printer.
check the fasteners on the parts you didn't assemble.
most of mine needed a few turns.

You weren't kidding.  Every single one needed at least a half turn.

oh yeah. once i tightened everything up prints were good.
Also, when my chiron showed up the mail lady knocked on the door and asked if i'd pull it off the truck.
hell ya! i ran out in my slippers in the snow to grab that.

[nitrogen_widget]

so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.
also, it's actually a damn good printer.
it's trowing out .10 per level D&D miniature's at acceptable quality (at 30mms) with very little adjustments.
it took a weeks of tweaking on my mini delta to get solid prints.

[BadMouth]

so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.

[nitrogen_widget]

so, it turns out with the XYZ 3d printer i was gifted, if you just use cura to connect to it, it ignores the NFC chip in the spool you buy.

that last update allowed you to use cura instead of their in house slicer.
they do have an open chip they sell for $60 shipped but i found i don't need it.

I printed up a spool hanger for the outside, drilled a hole in the side and designed a simple guide with no edges for the filament.
then i just manually leveled it.

[BadMouth]

It's alive!  No idea of it's accurate or can print, but the steppers are all moving in their proper directions.  Pretty sure the numbers I put in Marlin from the mpminiselect wiki are reliable.  Only part I had trouble with was the Fysetc Mini 12864 V1.2 board.  The tutorial I was following used a different LCD and there were some settings under NEOPIXEL_LED that I missed.  The bigger thing was that the connector on the board is upside down from what it needs to be when used with the skr1.3 board!  Finally came accross it on the Fysetc website. 

Tomorrow V6 gets installed and then I'm sure it's lots of tweaking.  Hoping this can be a dedicated ABS printer with which to build parts for a bigger ABS printer.  (It is on a chair because the USB cable that comes with the skr board is like 1ft long)

[nitrogen_widget]

I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k.

[yotsuya]

It's alive!  No idea of it's accurate or can print, but the steppers are all moving in their proper directions.  Pretty sure the numbers I put in Marlin from the mpminiselect wiki are reliable.  Only part I had trouble with was the Fysetc Mini 12864 V1.2 board.  The tutorial I was following used a different LCD and there were some settings under NEOPIXEL_LED that I missed.  The bigger thing was that the connector on the board is upside down from what it needs to be when used with the skr1.3 board!  Finally came accross it on the Fysetc website. 

Tomorrow V6 gets installed and then I'm sure it's lots of tweaking.  Hoping this can be a dedicated ABS printer with which to build parts for a bigger ABS printer.  (It is on a chair because the USB cable that comes with the skr board is like 1ft long)

Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.

Did the frame conversion this weekend - I love it! Everything is nice and sturdy. I also upgraded the LCD - man, so much better than the stock Anet LCD. The dial works so much better than those crappy buttons.

Waiting for a new MOSFET to show up for the heater bed, then I can try a test print.




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[yotsuya]

I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k.

Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.


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[BadMouth]

Let me know how the V6 install goes. I plan to do mine in the next week or so.

V6 install was gravy.  Started to watch a tutorial on youtube, but my parts were a bit different, so followed the official guide: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en
The firmware update would have been a sticking point if I had not already been changing and compiling Marlin the day before.  (If I hadn't fried the original monoprice board, it would have been one line of gcode to change the thermistor value).  Everything with the hotend went without a hitch.
The mount I used was literally the first thing I printed when I got the printer years ago because people online recommended doing so in case the hotend when bad.

The mini display continued to throw me for loops. My axis were reversed when I tested them in the menu, so I inverted them in Marlin.  Then homing was reversed.  I try to reverse homing, but it throws errors and can't be compiled.  Then I find out that the encoder wheel on the display can be reversed....and the direction the menu responds when the wheel is spun can be reversed.  Then I get where I think everything is right, I open Pronterface to my first PID tune on the hotend. ...and the axis are reversed there...meaning they were correct to begin with.     So I go back and make sure everything is right in pronterface, then change the wheel and menu settings to work with that.

.....and then I struggled for hours (still struggling) to get my limit switches working.  It should be the simplest thing.  It's just a NO microswitch.  Tried everything and it was like they weren't there.  Then discovered that I was supposed to have jumpers on the board.  Then they showed always closed so I inverted them, now they show always open regardless of whether they are pressed or not.  I know I'm a bit in over my head, but setting up friggin' limit switches shouldn't be the difficult part. 

I could be printing on it if the limit switches (and homing) would just work properly.

[BadMouth]

Cobbled together a lcd case and card holder from thingiverse with a plate in tinkercad.  Board is just on standoffs on the base plate.  Got a 60mm fan wedged in one end and no cover on the other end.
(not going to run a parts fan, as this will be used for abs.)

[BadMouth]

Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.

[yotsuya]

Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.

Heh.

I just got the MOSFET wired in, but I belt getting heater errors. I checked, one of the power cables was unattached at the source. Tied that in. Still nothing. Found that a connector was off by a pin. Fixed that. Finally the heated bed was recognized. Sweet!


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[nitrogen_widget]

I picked up an MPMD for cheap that someone bricked while trying to update.
so i put the custom firmware on it that is out there in the community that lets you use a 10 amp power supply to heat faster and higher.
took multiple tries to get it to take but it did.
thought i'd have to buy a new mainboard.
didn't have an old SD-card that it would read when booting.
had a micro-SD to SD adaptor cable and a 1gb SD card.
it worked!
ran the calibration program and so far it's printing good now.

Also, found out i'm getting a small bonus from work next week so i'm going to pick up a 2k mono-screen resin printer.
they are ~$200 now because everyone is about 4k.
looking at the voxlab Proxima and a led UV light with a light activated turntable.
just need a homer bucket to line with tin foil for a curing station.

I'm just printing mini's for D&D and skirmish games so i think i'll be good with just a paltry 2 k.

Nice - I kind of want to find a bricked printer to take the parts and convert it to a laser engraver.


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good luck.
people are dreaming these days with what they want for a broken 3d printer.
I got mine on ebay before prices on everything went sideways.
should check craigslist and fb market place.

[nitrogen_widget]

Bah, removed the jumpers and noticed the switches were working, but as NC.  Changed behavior in Marlin and now they are working properly.  I don't know what I just wasted all evening on.

i know this feel.

[BadMouth]

Well, I think the mini select is fully back now.  Laying down some petg as I don't want to open( or smell) the ABS until I'm ready to print parts.  Didn't know what to do with the rubber duck that came with the bigtree board, so I turned it into an extruder topper.

Man, this thing is near silent with the new board.  Only thing making noise is the hotend fan and it isn't much.  Gonna have to hack the obscenely loud anycubic mega s despite the warranty.

[yotsuya]

Good to see it running again!

I printed this Voron cube.




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[BadMouth]

Good to see it running again!

I printed this Voron cube.




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Is there some type of criteria the cube has to meet which means that you are ready to start printing voron parts?
If not, is there some other test to make sure the parts I'm printing would be up to standard?

[yotsuya]

Actually, I started using a new Slicer that I love. It’s called SuperSlicer, and it’s a fork from the Prusa Slicer development. It has built-in calibration tools, and one of the options let’s you print a Voron cube.

I like it so much better than Cura. You can really get in there and control almost every aspect of your print, filament, and Gcode settings. Check it out.


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[yotsuya]

Wanted to share this with you guys, my friend sent this to me this morning. She’s printing a pinball topper on her Voron while printing replacement parts to go to a full metal frame for the Prusa. I think this gives you a good idea as to the scale you can achieve on the Voron.




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[BadMouth]

Nice.  I want one.  Gonna try to print some Voron pulley system parts on the mini this weekend.  Hopefully they turn out useable.

Been a bit disappointed with the Mega S.  I've gotten by with it, but couldn't seem to get any aspect dialed in.  Couldn't even get the bed level without the back corner knob loosened so much it would fall off. 

Turned out the Y axis plate was bent in multiple ways.  Was afraid I wouldn't be able to straighten it, but it turned out to be some weird super soft metal that bends easy.  Got a decent first layer now, but still have a long ways to go.  While IMO the design of this printer is superior to the Ender3, I can't say I recommend it.  Too many quality control issues and it makes a high pitch whine that won't allow me to get a good night's sleep with it running.

[nitrogen_widget]

Nice.  I want one.  Gonna try to print some Voron pulley system parts on the mini this weekend.  Hopefully they turn out useable.

Been a bit disappointed with the Mega S.  I've gotten by with it, but couldn't seem to get any aspect dialed in.  Couldn't even get the bed level without the back corner knob loosened so much it would fall off. 

Turned out the Y axis plate was bent in multiple ways.  Was afraid I wouldn't be able to straighten it, but it turned out to be some weird super soft metal that bends easy.  Got a decent first layer now, but still have a long ways to go.  While IMO the design of this printer is superior to the Ender3, I can't say I recommend it.  Too many quality control issues and it makes a high pitch whine that won't allow me to get a good night's sleep with it running.

my Chiron has the same thing with the Y stepper or bed motor.
I've already replaced it and it seems like the the mount is bent so i straightened it and it seems to work better.
but it squeaks.
not that much.
i'm in the next room watching TV and i have to look to see if it's still printing.
but it's next to my Work From home setup and i notice the squeak some times.

my MPMD's squeal so i can hear them in bed upstairs.

[BadMouth]

Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.

[nitrogen_widget]

Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.

[yotsuya]

Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.

That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:




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[nitrogen_widget]

Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.

That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:




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looks like a totally different printer.
I assume it prints a little better?

[yotsuya]

Printed a Voron cube in ABS last night to see if the mini was up to the task.  Turned out great except for the bridge on the inside.  Thought I was ready to start printing parts.  Bracket looked good when I left it.  Came back to a lifted and warped corner.  Thought I could get away printing on a 75 degree bed since it was sticking.  Guess not.  Despite being warped it is crazy strong.  Gonna crank up the heat and build a foam wall.  Extending the bed is coming back to bite me in the ass when it comes to building an enclosure.

I have a heat lamp clamped to my Chiron and that usually lets me print smaller ABS parts just fine.

That sounds like a good trick!

I think I’ve got stuff dialed in. Current state of the printer:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

looks like a totally different printer.
I assume it prints a little better?

It prints a LOT better. A lot faster too, since this sturdy frame isn’t subject to the same wobble and sway of the acrylic frame.


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