So ... 3d Printers....

[opt2not]

That looks awesome!

[05SRT4]

im down to print a bigger one if you want that style

[nitrogen_widget]

Slightly larger, different model from what opt2not is asking for. Looking at the one he asked for seems like a post print nightmare.

if it were to be printed in half or one piece I think so.
tree supports aren't too bad though.
You will be able to get him a much nicer print for sure.

i'm going to clean that crappy yellow filament out of my extruder teeth and give it a shot at a smaller size like 3 1/2 inches long.
also, I just upgraded my PC from 8gb to 16gb and yeah, stuff slices so much faster.

[opt2not]

im down to print a bigger one if you want that style

Sure! I’d love one.

[Osirus23]

That little tank is amazing. The rifling inside the main cannon, the individual barrels of the machine guns, wow.

[05SRT4]

im down to print a bigger one if you want that style

Sure! I’d love one.

PM me where this is going.

[Titchgamer]

Noice

[Vigo]

Looks great!

[nitrogen_widget]

those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.

[opt2not]

PM me where this is going.

PM sent! 

[05SRT4]

those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.

The largest one was 7 hours.

[nitrogen_widget]

those look amazing.
how long to print?
after many issues with my hot end i'm starting to print parts for this now.
got some nice shiny silver filament.

The largest one was 7 hours.

LOL!
20hrs on mine at .16 mm layer height at default size.
each section is taking 3.5 hrs min. for me.

[nitrogen_widget]

So this came out better than expected.
Too bad I printed it with supports on the bottom that won’t fricken come off.
Reprinting upside down with tree supports.
Generating then in meshmixer took about 45 mins.
Then slicing it in Slic3r took almost an hr.
Had to slow down support speed to 30 mm so they don’t get knocked over.

I found some models for modding an N64 case with usb front connectors, feet, switch ect and a tray for the rpi4.
I didn't have an n64 case and busted n64's are $25 on ebay. I call that plan B.
however I had already bought that lime green spool for $12 shipped on sale and the kids loved the color so i found an n64 model and printing that.
it isn't 100% accurate (off a few mm) so i need to do some adjustments on the fitted parts.

[nitrogen_widget]

Success!
though i'm wearing gloves for removing supports from the top piece.
Had to use a needle nose and channel locks to remove them and that plastic is sharp.
chewed up my fingers.

Think i'll start a project thread now.

[pbj]

Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079

[05SRT4]

Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079

Seems easy enough, ill PM you once its done. I'm assuming you want it in Black?

[pbj]

Hold off, I think I suckered PL1 into doing it. 

 

[PL1]

Sure would be cool if someone could print me one of these.....


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079

Here's a modded version of the base for anyone wanting one without the button hole.
- The button is for the Rhea or Phoebe Saturn Optical Drive Emulators, not the Fenrir.

OpenSCAD code for the remix:

Code: [Select]

// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Base

// Plugs unnecessary button hole in original base.

// Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks

/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
basethick = 6.4;

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.

/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

// Import .stl
import("Base.stl"); // The .stl filename is case sensitive and the file must be in same folder as this OpenSCAD file

color("gray")
translate([19.6, -28, basethick/2])
cylinder(basethick,d=10.2,center=true); // Plug the button hole


Scott

[pbj]

Ah, so it is using one of those SD cables with the screw mounts.  Glad I didn’t order one just yet, though i suspect if you crack open the plastic case found on some of them, you find the screw mount version inside.

Anyway, purpose of this is to move the SD card slot to a more reasonable position, reduce wear and tear on the optical drive emulator micro sd port, and plug up the gaping hole left when you remove the CD drive.

[PL1]

Ah, so it is using one of those SD cables with the screw mounts.  Glad I didn’t order one just yet, though i suspect if you crack open the plastic case found on some of them, you find the screw mount version inside.

The guy that posted the model on Thingiverse described the extender he used as "a 25cm one" -- no links or pics.   

The screw holes in the base align with screw holes in the edges of the cover. (34mm center-to-center)

The hollow under the cover is 30mm wide x 37mm deep x 4mm tall.

I have an SD card extender like the pic below, but the plastic case makes it too tall to work with the cover.   
- Looks like the cover was designed for a low-profile regular-size SD card holder.
- Not sure if he used something like this one that has no case or decased one like mine.   



If you can't find an extender that works with the cover dimensions listed above, it shouldn't be too hard to make a custom cover.


Scott

[Howard_Casto]

I'm pretty sure on the dreamcast versions of these prints you take the cover off the extender but I'm not 100% sure. 

[PL1]

Since the SD card extender I mentioned above is too big to fit without decasing, here's a cover for MicroSD card extenders like this one (7.5") or this one. (19")



The .zip file contains the STL file and the OpenSCAD, DXF, logo image, and Inkscape files along with directions on how to vectorize a logo for OpenSCAD if you want to customize yours.

The OpenSCAD file is fully commented and parametric so you can easily customize the cover by changing the associated variable(s) -- no programming ability needed.   

Print the cover with the small, flat back side down with no supports. (i.e. rotate -90 degrees on the X-axis.)

This cover is about 3mm taller than the original, but it should still fit inside with the CD lid closed.

Code: [Select]

// Saturn Fenrir ODE (Optical Drive Emulator) Micro SD Extender Cover

// Original cover hollow was the wrong size for many commonly available extenders.

// This remake cover is designed to work with the ODE base from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927079 by Zitruskeks

// Logo exported from Inkscape to .dxf file using https://github.com/brad/Inkscape-OpenSCAD-DXF-Export

/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
CoverX = 38.4; // Overall width of the case

CoverY = 40.7; // Overall depth of the case

CoverZ = 9; // Overall height of the case

ScrewHoleOffset = 21; // Distance from back of case to center of screw holes

ScrewHoleWidth = 34; // Center-to-center distance between holes

ScrewHoleDia = 2.5; // Screw hole diameter

CaseX = 25; // Overall width of the extender case

CaseY = 33; // Overall depth of the extender case

CaseZ = 7.4; // Overall Height of the extender case

CornerDia = 6; // Corner diameter on the extender case

CaseOffset = 0.1; // Distance the extender case protrudes beyond the cover

RibbonWidth = 21; // Ribbon cable width

RibbonDepth = 6; // Y-axis distance to allow ribbon cable to bend

LogoX = 32.15; //Logo X-axis size

LogoY = 21.7; //Logo Y-axis size

LogoDepth = 0.5; // Depth of the logo

CurveDia = 40; // Diameter of the front curve

CurveOffset = 32.5; // Distance past the front edge of the cover to place the front curve cylinder

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.

/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

difference(){ // Cover minus Saturn Logo, screw holes, extender case, ribbon cable space, and front curve

// Cover
    translate ([0, -CoverY/2, CoverZ/2])
    cube ([CoverX, CoverY, CoverZ], center=true);
    //

// Saturn Logo (Optional)
    // Comment out the next four lines to skip the logo.
    translate([-LogoX/2, -CoverY/2 - LogoY/2, CoverZ - LogoDepth + 0.01])
    resize(newsize=[LogoX ,LogoY ,LogoDepth])
    linear_extrude(height = LogoDepth, convexity = 10)
    import(file = "Saturn_Logo.dxf", layer="Logo"); // Saturn logo
    // The "Saturn_Logo.dxf" file needs to be in the same directory as this OpenSCAD file.
   
// Screw holes
    translate([-ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
    cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Left screw hole

    translate([ScrewHoleWidth/2, -ScrewHoleOffset, CoverZ/4])
    cylinder (CoverZ/2 + 0.1, d = ScrewHoleDia, center=true); // Right screw hole

// Extender case
    hull() {
        translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY  - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back right corner

        translate([CaseX/2 - CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front right corner

        translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Front left corner

        translate([-CaseX/2 + CornerDia/2, -CoverY + CaseY  - CornerDia/2 - CaseOffset, CaseZ/2])
        cylinder (CaseZ + 0.01, d = CornerDia, center=true); // Back left corner

    } // End extender case

// Ribbon cable space
    translate ([0, -CoverY + CaseY + RibbonDepth/2 - CaseOffset - 0.1, CaseZ/2])
    cube ([RibbonWidth, RibbonDepth, CaseZ + 0.01], center=true);

// Front curve
        translate([0, -CoverY - CurveOffset/2, CoverZ/2])
        cylinder (CoverZ + 0.1, d = CurveDia, center=true);

} // End difference
//


Scott

[nitrogen_widget]

After a lot of trial and error I have a refurb monoprice mini delta with a glass bed and a .2mm nozzle printing up some decent quality mini's in PLA.
I made a bunch up to use with Dungeon! Classic board game from early 90's.

[pbj]

Had to take a soldering iron and hobby knife to it, but got it mounted.  Holes were a little too tight, and there’s some alignment pegs on the case that were blocking it.  I think the original author snapped his off or maybe his console revision didn’t have them.  So I melted out a notch and waved the shaft around in the holes to widen them and good to go.  I tacked it to the case with a few drops of hot glue, and used two tall mounting posts in the back and two short ones up front.  Used 2 8mm M3 screws to hold the SD card cable housing to the plate.

You have to twist the SD cable to get it turned the right way internally but no big deal.

Looks great and will protect my internals and keeps my hands off the Fenrir.

Thanks, PL1.

[PL1]

Glad to assist and glad to see that the taller cover still fits under the CD lid.   

Had to take a soldering iron and hobby knife to it, but got it mounted.  Holes were a little too tight, and there’s some alignment pegs on the case that were blocking it.  I think the original author snapped his off or maybe his console revision didn’t have them.  So I melted out a notch and waved the shaft around in the holes to widen them and good to go.

If anyone printing their own has this problem, LMK how much larger the holes need to be and measurements for where and how big to make the alignment notch.

I'll update the OpenSCAD code here with easy-to-adjust variables for modifying the original base.   


Scott

[pbj]

I started out with good intentions and my drill press, but I was afraid I was going to blow out the edges of 3 of the holes so I went to the soldering iron.  I’d make the holes bigger and expand them inward.  It’s not much.  I have no idea how you’re supposed to put it all back together without securing the insert to the top case first.  Probably just a little masking tape would have been fine as it’s really clamped in tight once the case is screwed together.

 

[PL1]

I’d make the holes bigger and expand them inward.

It'll be easy to reverse engineer the current X/Y position and size for the four mount holes -- then anyone can adjust those variables as needed, render, and export as an STL file.   

I can guesstimate, but the three measurements I'd need to make the notch accurately are:
  1. The X-axis distance from the right edge of the base to the right edge of the notch.
  2. The X-axis width of the notch.
  3. The Y-axis depth of the notch.


Scott

[pbj]

Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111

 

[05SRT4]

Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111

 

does it matter what color?

[05SRT4]

Anyone bored and want to print something?  It’d be a whole lot cooler if you did.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541111

 

does it matter what color?

Never-mind you're getting a white and a grey one. Still at the same address?

[pbj]

Yes, but I think PL1 printed me one already.  You guys are too generous.

Maybe we can do a 3D printer showdown and see which one my gameboy likes better.

 

[BadMouth]

Stretched the bed of my monoprice mini.  Waiting for the mailman to bring a longer belt today.  Original bed will attach to adjuster screws shown.  Piece of glass cut from scrap will go on top to print longer stuff when needed.  Spent about $25 including the epoxy to attach the bed halves to some small J channel. Might spend a couple more on nuts and bolts to make thumb screw adjusters.

[yotsuya]

Nice, I need to repair the auto that leveling sensor that I bought about a year ago. It works great, but I need to change the sensor and I’m missing a replacement screw terminal.


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[nitrogen_widget]

Stretched the bed of my monoprice mini.  Waiting for the mailman to bring a longer belt today.  Original bed will attach to adjuster screws shown.  Piece of glass cut from scrap will go on top to print longer stuff when needed.  Spent about $25 including the epoxy to attach the bed halves to some small J channel. Might spend a couple more on nuts and bolts to make thumb screw adjusters.

do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?

[BadMouth]

do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?

Don't need to mess with the firmware.
Dimensions are adjusted under machine settings in Cura.
(Point of origin set by limit switches on machine, then dimensions in each direction from there are whatever is entered in Cura.)

While using the stock heated bed, I have a magnet stuck to the underside to trip the y-axis limit switch at the front edge of the shorter bed instead of where the longer glass bed would be. 

The only PITA thing with this setup is the height change when stacking the glass plate on top.
Either the adjuster screws will have to be tightened down and re-leveled to lower the glass to the current height, or I'll have to rig up some type of spacer or adjuster on the z-axis limit switch.

I may end up just making a full length bed out of metal, but I suck at working with metal and don't want to spend money on an additional bed heater.

I am no expert on 3D printing stuff.

[nitrogen_widget]

do you need to adjust the dimensions in the firmware or doe that get handled in the slicer?

Don't need to mess with the firmware.
Dimensions are adjusted under machine settings in Cura.
(Point of origin set by limit switches on machine, then dimensions in each direction from there are whatever is entered in Cura.)

While using the stock heated bed, I have a magnet stuck to the underside to trip the y-axis limit switch at the front edge of the shorter bed instead of where the longer glass bed would be. 

The only PITA thing with this setup is the height change when stacking the glass plate on top.
Either the adjuster screws will have to be tightened down and re-leveled to lower the glass to the current height, or I'll have to rig up some type of spacer or adjuster on the z-axis limit switch.

I may end up just making a full length bed out of metal, but I suck at working with metal and don't want to spend money on an additional bed heater.

I am no expert on 3D printing stuff.

I'm not familiar with this printer.
I have the mini delta and it has true auto leveling so when I put glass on the metal bed after the sticker tore it wasn't an issue.
didn't know the other mini was different.

[BadMouth]

What are people using for adhesion/build surfaces these days?

I don't print a whole lot and have been using PEI on a heated bed.  Did a lot of printing recently and my prints are no longer sticking.  After getting nowhere with a lot of unnecessary bed leveling & heat level experimenting I'm thinking my year old PEI sheet may be shot.  Everything prints fine on painters tape.

So should I buy another sheet of PEI, or are there better alternatives now?

[05SRT4]

In the end Blue Painters tapes always win for me

[nitrogen_widget]

purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.

[yotsuya]

purple gluestick is my go to as all my beds are glass.

Does the glass start to splinter? I’ve read that.

I think my PEI sheet is ready to give up the ghost soon as well. Considering going to glass myself.


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