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So ... 3d Printers....

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Howard_Casto:
Well then I'm probably seeing an older model of the same printer then, and that's the reason for the discount. 

How could I tell about the printer sub-frame?  It's covered in most pics, but if I knew what to look for...

I'm aware I can't print to the bounds easily, but the monoprice ones are so much smaller I'm thinking they would struggle to print out... let's say a Gameboy shell or something similar. 

SammyWI:
I don't think you can really tell anything about what particular changes you might get from the resellers pages or photos.  I doubt the resellers themselves have much of a clue, they just get the boxes from China and ship them out.  These Chinese manufacturers tend to make small changes and upgrades as they go without updating descriptions, etc.  Can make assembly interesting! These printers seem to be selling like mad so I doubt you'll really find old stock anywhere.

Most all of the printer parts are available cheaply from Chinese suppliers. Sometimes quality is too cheap but for the most part I have had good luck.  I know an aluminum sub bed is available from other places or making one would not be very hard. It becomes slightly addicting to upgrade and mod your printer when you see parts on Amazon Prime for $10.

A gameboy shell should not be too difficult at all to print.  I looked up sizes and I saw less than 150mm as the biggest dimension.  I'd say you could print that on a 170mm bed or larger very easily.  Pushing things nearly to the edges should be possible but may be more challenging.

If you see versions that have an auto bed level upgrade, don't get it.  I bought that version and it did not actually do auto bed leveling, it just swapped the typical Z home limit switch (physical microswitch) for an inductive sensor that senses the aluminum build plate.  I ended up buying a new inductive sensor (better range and repeatability) and changing to the Skynet3D firmware to enable auto leveling. A very worthwhile upgrade IMO.

Materials: I would stay away from ABS.  I used it for several years and always had problems.  The main issue is that it shrinks when cooling which leads to it pealing of the bed when printing, warping and just a general pain. PLA is the easiest printing material and works for many parts, would probably be fine for gameboy shells.  For stronger and more heat resistant stuff I use PETG.  PETG is also more flexible in thin sections and comes in both opaque and translucent colors.  Both PLA and PETG (and ABS) print at temps low enough for the Anet hot end. Some materials require higher temps (nylon and polycarbonate for example) and really need the hotend changed to an all metal version.  The included hot end has a teflon liner which will melt and give off nasty gasses if heated too high.  How high is too high is debatable but I like to keep mine to 240 C and below.

I'm rambling, I know but I'm at home now with a real keyboard to type on.  And it's nice to talk about this on a real forum rather than a Facebook group where each thread seems to have three reasonable people and a hundred kids screaming: "yes it is, no it isn't, hey look something shiny!"

Howard_Casto:
Yeah I'm swaying back in the i3 direction due to the amount of parts and mods available.  Anything from dual heads to new frames.  I'm glad you said something about the auto-level because on the aforementioned facebook page everybody swears by the auto-level version.  It didn't make sense to me how a cheap sensor would help. 

I'm not interested in abs except for special projects due to the fumes alone.  I'm thinking it might be better to keep it in the house as it looks a bit delicate. 



I hear ya.  As per usual I ask in this forum and somebody who knows what they are talking about answers.  Funny how that works around here.  ;)

SammyWI:
Keeping it inside is a very good idea. Climate controlled is best as any temperature changes can mess things up. Even a draft can mess up prints, keep away from open windows or HVAC vents. Humidity can affect the filliment too but PLA and PETG are not too sensitive to moisture. Dry filliment is happy filliment.

We are lucky to have the BYOAC forum. Many forums are dying with people shifting to Facebook groups, etc which is a huge loss IMO.

Howard_Casto:
Well I know I said gearbest is out, but it's back in.  They just had a new sale, 149 bucks shipped from LA.  I used paypal for payment and bought the shipping insurance for a couple bucks to protect myself. 

So:  [Smee]If anybody's not 3d printing... get here quick![/Smee]

http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_343643.html?wid=8&siteid=136649&utm_source=webgains&utm_campaign=GearbestUSA

Pay attention to the warehouse because when they run out it switches over to China and they charge you an additional 30 bucks (not to mention the 4-6 weeks for delivery)

So now that I've ordered one and I've saved so much money, are there any parts/mods/ect you guys recommend getting?  Urls on stuff would be helpful.

I've gotta buy some filament as well.  I stumbled across a ebay store that was selling red and blue pla 1kg spools for a mere 10 bucks a spool.  I'm unsure why those filaments are so cheap while other colors can be upwards of 30 bucks.  I've gotta get black though as I'll be printing some stuff for my car.  Transparent is interesting as well.

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