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lilshawn:
i don't see any gaps, but the difference between this preview and reality is likely not actually accurate width wise.

FYI, the width of the straight part of the P and E is 2.5mm.

i've seen mention of turning on "ironing". basically a 2nd pass on the last layer at the same z height with a tiny bit of filament extrusion to help fill in gaps and smash down any lumps that might be sticking out... i might give that a try too.

that's the fun part about 3d printers is it's basically free to try again...and again...and again...

PL1:
Try downscaling 4% (2.4/2.5) or upscaling 12%. (2.8/2.5)

Two other variables that might make a difference:

Speed - If the speed is a bit high on the straight vertical passes, it might stretch the filament as it deposits it.
- If it loses contact between each vertical pass and the one before it, the deposited filament could cool and contract leaving the gaps.
- Notice that there is a little contact between the passes at the top and bottom, but gaps in the middle.

Temperature - If you bring the temperature up to 208 or 210, the filament should flow and spread a bit easier than it does at 200. That could help maintain contact during these vertical passes.
- How well does the heater maintain temperature while printing?

Scott

lilshawn:

--- Quote from: PL1 on November 07, 2023, 08:28:40 pm ---- How well does the heater maintain temperature while printing?

--- End quote ---

it's spot on all the time. I've modded the hotend to remove the screws they put to attach the heatblock to the heatsink. of course if i crash it into the bed, it'll probably snap off at the heat break... but there was no real sense in having hot metal screws sucking heat from the heatblock into the heatsink.

--- Quote from: PL1 on November 07, 2023, 08:28:40 pm ---Speed - If the speed is a bit high on the straight vertical passes, it might stretch the filament as it deposits it.
- If it loses contact between each vertical pass and the one before it, the deposited filament could cool and contract leaving the gaps.
- Notice that there is a little contact between the passes at the top and bottom, but gaps in the middle.

--- End quote ---

the 2 lines in the middle are actually deposited slightly lower than the outside perimeter. (according to cura) also according to cura the flow is consistent across the entire thing, so in theory.. it should be building up on the 2 lines due to the slightly slower speed. (unless it's being overcompensated for.)

i may also try bumping up the temp a little and see what it does as well. the filament is stickered saying it's good up to 235 (not that i'd go that high.)

i did print extrusion test parts with this green filament and had zero issues at 200, even bridges and stuff with no issues. i think it has to be the slicer and that weird size thing.

BadMouth:
Your issue looks too bad to be caused by this, but worth a try:

Set extra infill wall count and extra skin wall count to zero.

I had issues with gaps at the edges of the infill and cura seemed to ignore whatever overlap percentage I called for.
The problem was that it considered that extra wall as infill, not a wall, so it did not add any extra overlap between it and the other infill/skin.

If you want to export as a 3mf file and upload, I will take a look.

lilshawn:
sorry for the lack of update. i delayed this project... and then tend to forget things often these days. getting old sucks. but, here i am with an doozy update

i took the advice to embiggen the tags slightly and it did VASTLY improve the infill spacing. in my various tests, i did play around with increasing extrusion slightly (to 104%) which also helped close up some gaps but resulted in a bit of stringing and slight over extrusion in some really specific encounters... so i ended up dialing it back. i did increase overlap a tiny bit and it seemed to help as well. just a matter of playing around and seeing what combination works best.

i ended up settling on setting my extrusion up 2%, increasing overlap 10% and increasing the print size 12% and increased the printing speed (apparently this printer seems to perform better at higher speed (infill 100mm/s, internal perimeters 60mm/s, 2500mm acceleration) Turning jerk up to 20mm/s and AND printing external perimeters at the same speed as jerk...effectively turning it off. WEW! this also eliminated some of the weird bulging corners I was getting at right angles.

Apparently it's a nozzle pressure timing thing with the variable speeds they are seem to be trying to use when rounding a corner causes a sight overextrusion as it hits the corner and the molten extrude sort of rolls out the side of the nozzle kinda like a wobbly jello mould when you drive around the corner to grandmas house for christmas dinner. my theory about this is that keeping the speed linear when changing directions around the corner seems to keep the hotend pressure constant instead of spiking up when the nozzle slows down for the last few steps of the corner. but, i digress...

overall the project worked out fairly well. i ended up delaying starting this project because i wanted to upgrade some parts first. (which is also why i haven't updated till now)

I upgraded my Ender 3 pro with a CRtouch bed probe and an additional Z drive motor and lead screw so now it's dual Z drive instead of cantilevered and all setup for auto mesh bed leveling... so...basically an Ender 3 Max Neo (but with a slightly smaller print size and no touch screen)

dual z drive will help if i want to direct drive filament extrusion later.

after a firmware update, and a couple slicer config changes... I can't believe how much these 2 things have changed the quality of the first layers and how much messing around with leveling it eliminates... and the likelihood of success of those attempts to print.

where before i would have to restart about 90% of the prints 3 or 4 times to get good/proper bed adhesion... with these upgrades... I have since printed over 88 projects on the printer (i have a cat container on my desk that i peel off and put the purge lines from the successful prints in) and have maybe only had an issue 3 or 4 times and 1 of them was simply because an error in the configuration. I had changed some parameters then forgot to save them and powered off, thus not having the proper parameters on power up again.

so with this new setup, I started the tag project. I ended up pumping out 28 of the tags in 7 batches of 4 in just a couple days (~8 hours per print), with one big session to finish off. the tags required a filament change part way through so i figure it had to be babysat, but i guess in the firmware update (thanks to marlin) they fixed the filament change gcode.

Before, it would move up away from the build... beep like 4 times... them move back down and continue printing. when it beeped i would menu over and select pause print, and change the filament by opening the extruder drive and ripping out the filament and loading the new one, manually pushing it through to purge, then resume. it was kinda hit or miss and required some timing.

Now, it properly supports M600 command so it pauses and moves out of the way, unloads the filament and waits for you to load new filament. Then it loads and purges the nozzle... giving you the option to purge more, or continue...the whole shebang is basically automagic. so it made it super easy... just wait for the beeping and follow the on screen instructions.

all in all, it's been super fun learning the in's and outs of 3d printing. it's a steep AF learning curve to it, but it's awesome how many people there are that have the same issues, and finding so many people to help. it also helps that this model was so popular that literally 100's of thousands of them are out there.

also thank you guys!

merry christmas/xmas/holidays/etc/etc/etc
and happy new year!

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