Main > Everything Else

So ... 3d Printers....

<< < (255/258) > >>

BadMouth:
It doesn't surprise me when it comes to most Chinese manufacturers.  R&D is not their strong suite, hence reliance on hobbyists for design, software, & support.
Cost control is their strong suite and I do appreciate that to an extent.

The youtube channel Clough42 recently did a review of the Quidi i-Fast where the conclusion is that it's a great printer with half assed software.  It has a camera installed inside, but you have to separate camera software to view it.  It is not even integrated into the 3D printer control software.

It's a shame because it seems to have everything I'm trying to accomplish with my current build.  Dual hotends and an 80 degree heated chamber.  He shows huge chunky ABS parts that printed with absolutely no warping.  If I didn't already spend so much building a Voron (and another), I'd be tempted.  Not sure if I'd pull the trigger on it or not though based on the software and concern about future parts availability.

EDIT:  watched the video again and he says the specs claimed a chamber temp lf 65, but it went to 80.  I wonder if the parts it's built from are even rated for continuous duty at 80.  I've beem looking at ceramic heaters.  Some of them come with pc style fans and say they are limited to 65 because of the fans.

BadMouth:
Did some more tinkering....

A few weeks ago it was unseasonably cold and I had a few failed ASA prints.  It was cold in the basement and chamber temps were only getting to the mid 30's (celsius).
So I finally ordered a pair of 50mm fans to tinker with a PTC heater that I had purchased long ago.  Also orderd a 500w personal heater from amazon warehouse for $15, figuring that it might be a simpler and cheaper route.

Supposedly the aluminum fins on these heaters are carrying 110v when they are active.  I couldn't get anything with the meter, but am treating them as live just in case.  There is a cover over the ceramic portions, which may be where the angry pixies are.  PTC is labelled 500w.  Harbor Freight clamp meter says 3 amp, so probably more like 360w.  Fans are 12.6 cfm each and seemed to provide enough airflow.  It took 12 minutes to heat the build chamber of the 350mm Voron V2.4 from 27 degrees to 50 (No other heat source.  Bed wasn't on.)  It took forever to reach 51 degrees, so I think any further increases would have been minimal.  I am not looking to get it hotter than 60-65.  All the small fans in the printer are only rated for those temperatures, and the linear bearings (which have plastic races) aren't rated for a whole lot more. 

There are a lot of considerations to work through before I would feel safe leaving it unattended.  The fan must be on when the heater is, so it would be bad practice to rely on software to control the fan.  The fans I am currently using are 24v.  They could be connected directly to the power supply which would make them run whenever the machine's 110v power switch is on.  Not sure if that is better or worse than using a 110v fan.  If something caused the fans to stop, the area surrounding the PTC must be able to tolerate the heat until a thermal fuse or relay is tripped.  Relay probably isn't the way to go as it would reset itself when it cooled down and then the PTC would just heat up again.  There are probably other things I haven't even thought of yet.

Not sure how it could be incorporated into the 2.4.  Best thing I've come up with is a blower and ductwork attached to the outside of the back panel with the PTC mounted about where the exhaust outlet currently is.

I worked out an idea for the new IDEX build where it could be mounted underneath the chamber in the center with ductwork pulling air from the sides.  I am thinking heat rises in the center.  Cold air falls, but is pushed to the outer edges by the heat rising off the buildplate.  The only problem I could think of with this setup (in addition to crap falling in the ducts), is that on really tall prints the bed will get close to the PTC heater and that might trigger a "bed heater not behaving as expected" automatic shutdown.  Dunno, but I've arranged things so the possibility is there.  The ductwork would be a pain to print.  The picture of it under the IDEX is just of it sitting in place.  Nothing has been done as far as adding it. 

BadMouth:
IDEX build has been half apart and back together a couple times.

I had to flip both x steppers back over so they hang under instead of sitting on top.  I do not understand, but I could not get the kinematics to work correctly with them on top.  I reversed motor direction in software, homing direction, physically reversed wiring, etc.  All combinations either lead to having to home toward the front or move 0,0 coordinates to the back.  I gave up and redid the back assembly and belts, etc.   :-\  It is still irking me.

Trident Z axis conversion is complete and everything is working correctly.  It really opens up visual space (and real space) on the sides.  Original plan was to incorporate spool holders on the sides, but there was enough room in the back.  They are far enough back that oozing filament can't drip on them.  Only problem is that the bed has to be all the way up or down to load filament.  Swapping rolls in the middle of a print may not be possible.  The spool holders are mounted with removable t-nuts, so nothing is set in stone.  There is just enough room on the side for a 5lb roll from Keene Village Plastics, but it would be super close to the bed.  I had a piece of textured ABS that was the right size for the bottom panel, so I went ahead and added it.  I will probably change it to aluminum composite later.

Still haven't wired the toolheads.  Not looking forward to it.  The silicone wire I planned to use droops instead of arching like an umbilical.  It will take a lot of wirres and I have not found the perfect toolhead connector yet.  I happened to come across a new BigTreeTech canbus pcb for "introductory pricing" which was not much more than simple "Voron" connector PCBs go for.  So I ordered a pair.  I will be in over my head with the canbus stuff, but it would mean only having to run 4 or 6 wires to the toolhead instead of 17.

I was also tempted by this Biqu hotend kit hat uses a proprietary "USB-C" cable for all the hotend connections.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001995220414.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.6b772e0eARS7X4
I would have to order a bunch backup cables though, because you probably won't be able to get them in the future.


Not much else is going to happen until I wire the toolheads so the actual IDEX testing can begin.
I am fiddling with the camera mount and lights to avoid working on the wiring.
Was going to start on the insulated enclosure, but all the local big box stores are out of 1/2" polyiso.  Might break down and use 3/4....


pbj:
So I need basically the simplest thing in the world printed.... more or less this design:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223106

I had an outlet installed in my gameroom, but it's mounted to a brick wall that was covered with sheetrock.  (God bless the former owners)  So that means about 9/16" of electrical box is exposed between sheetrock and back of the outlet face plate.  (I was made aware of this before the electrician installed it and I told him to do it anyway)

All I need is a rectangular frame that lines up with the edges of my wall plate cover.  The edges have to be narrow because it needs to clear the mounting tabs of the outlet itself.  I made one out of wood but it was too thick and looked dumb.  Right now I've got it covered with a few wraps of black velcro tape.  Your eye passes over it, and it's better than exposed metal, but I'd like something more finished. 

That's a company that makes these rings, but I'd need three of them:

https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/depth-ring-wall-plate-extenders-1-gang/

And the pricing seems absurd.

Anyone?




HaRuMaN:
I can do that...  just get me some dimensions.   :cheers:

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version