How to enable coin mech?

[ed12]

wow
that was taken at the power supply ?
if so get a replacement asap
as either the wireing or the power supply is ground looping

ed

[lilshawn]

those power supplies usually just regulate the 5 volt and leave the others to float all over hell's half acre...

I would also unplug the coin mech and test the 12 volt line again. maybe the mech is no good. we should power the coin mech from a separate known good 12 volt supply (like a wall wart) and see if it's working first... before we go diving much further into this power supply.

[Haloman800]

I unplugged the coin mech power supply (meaning the cord hooked up to the coin mech, I didn't mess with the wires coming from the power supply), and (with the jamma board still in) I still got around 11.3

I don't mind buying a 12v power supply just for the coin mech, if that's what I need to fix it.

[ed12]

my main concern is the 12volt rail is low
on a switcher it is usualy the other way around
where the 5volt rail dip out
the 12 are perty robust
in this course of action i would just replace the main switching unit
as i have a bad feeling it is getting ready to puke on u anyway

ed

[Haloman800]

Okay, can you tell me the name or model # of a unit I can replace it with?

Also, is it as easy as unscrewing each wire and screwing it into the new switcher?



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[lilshawn]

I personally wouldn't discount it quite yet...

a cheapy cheap peter chow type supply often has the 5 volt be the only real regulated supply with the others sort of based off it.

you can test if this is the case by running the 5 volt adjust pot up and down and see if the 12 volt goes up and down too. (disconnected from the board of course.) you can also test this by placing a large load on the 5 volt (I use a couple car tail light bulbs with 2 filiments each and run them both together, it's about a 1.5 amp load)) and see if it brings the 12 volt line up. if it comes up, this is the issue.

Also, quite often the feedback pin for the 5 volt is incorrectly tied to the output of the regulator circuit instead of on the output connector after the  inductor filter like it's spec'd to. not a big deal, but allows a lot of delta in the load before the supply compensates

also, these xxx-in-1 boards are not a real high load like the old boards used to be. this low loading can cause regulation inconsistencies since the supply is being run at a tiny tiny fraction of it's output capability. These supplies probably should have a "minimum load" requirement as well.

back to the task at hand....

these XXX-in-1 boards really don't care if the 12 volt is out a bit, it's just used for the audio amplifier. in fact, the board will run without 12 volts at all (without any sound of course). i'd say for the time being, the existing power supply is passable for now.

the coin mechanism on the other hand is fairly picky about having damn close to 12 volts. if you have a 12 volt DC power supply (if even to borrow from something just to test) and hook up to the coin mech to see if it is even working. I mean who knows, maybe whoever built the cabinet just threw in a random coin mech that he had laying around just to fill the hole. I would think ~11 would be close enough but i've experienced weirder.

if the mech is toast, they are super cheap. you can pick them up on ebay for about 20 bucks shipped from the land of many cheap item shenzhen market super happy best quality S+.

https://www.amazon.com/Sintron-Kai-638-Comparable-Acceptor-Selector/dp/B00C188QRS

[yotsuya]

I wouldn't even use an electronic mech, personally.

[lilshawn]

I wouldn't even use an electronic mech, personally.

meh, you run what you brung. it's there might as well try and use it.

maybe OP is just looking for more of an authentic experience of dropping the coin and playing a game. But sometimes being able to just adding credits to play a game doesn't encourage you to try and play better... ded...add another credit....ded add another credit. no fun there.

[yotsuya]

I wouldn't even use an electronic mech, personally.

meh, you run what you brung. it's there might as well try and use it.

maybe OP is just looking for more of an authentic experience of dropping the coin and playing a game. But sometimes being able to just adding credits to play a game doesn't encourage you to try and play better... ded...add another credit....ded add another credit. no fun there.

Oh, I'm all for using a coin mech. All the games in my game room I set to use tokens. But I wouldn't use an electronic one. It seems like it's more hassle than it's worth. You could easily spend 20 bucks and just get a 8 liner coin mech does the exact same thing without using electricity.

[lilshawn]

an 8 liner style mechanical with a microswitch is probably the best most reliable method, and would easily slot in the same area as the current electronic mechanism.

depends on where OP price point is in terms of what's available and how he wants to go about it.

[ed12]

unless i or u ppl missed the point the op is a newbie to electronics and or games
so the easiest path is to get to the "fault" taking out personal prefrence.
lord the op never even owned a meter
but all that aside yes by all means a mech with a switch is better for alot of reasons
i was just not into re-inventing the wheel as it is said

ed

[Haloman800]

I'm still here, I ordered the coin mech that lilshawn linked. Worst case scenario, it also doesn't work (aka it's the wiring) and I pay return shipping of $3.

Is this the "8 liner style mechanical" coin door you referenced above? https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Game-mechanical-selector-Jamma/dp/B00F1YQJJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479763184&sr=8-1&keywords=mechanical+coin+door

A little more background, I am 21 (not that it matters) and I own a business; I want to get this accepting quarters so I can put it in my lobby. I already have candy/vending machines so it would be nice to have another thing for my clients kids (and my clients themselves) to enjoy.

I'm definitely a newbie to anything hardware. I've built 2 cabs using Windows/Hyperspin (A cocktail and a full size upright); I purchased this cocktail cab on Craigslist for $600.

[JDFan]

You are aware that arcade machines require a tax permit on each machine that needs to be paid annually in order to do that. 

[yotsuya]

Yeah, I figured he wanted to do this for commercial reasons, which is why I didn't really give any assistance.

[Haloman800]

Yeah, I figured he wanted to do this for commercial reasons, which is why I didn't really give any assistance.

Why would that make a difference?

Anyhow. Thank you ed12 and lilshawn for the help. I'll update this thread when the new coin mech comes in.

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[yotsuya]

Yeah, I figured he wanted to do this for commercial reasons, which is why I didn't really give any assistance.

Why would that make a difference?

Anyhow. Thank you ed12 and lilshawn for the help. I'll update this thread when the new coin mech comes in.

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Just a matter of principle. This is a hobbyist site. Besides, those 60 and 1 boards aren't supposed to be talked about here for commercial reasons. But good luck to you.

[yotsuya]

Oh, and that's not the mech I was talking about. It's very similar to the one that you already have, but it doesn't need electricity. It should just be a drop-in replacement.

[Haloman800]

Oh, and that's not the mech I was talking about. It's very similar to the one that you already have, but it doesn't need electricity. It should just be a drop-in replacement.

I can't find it. Would you link me to it?

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[yotsuya]

[lilshawn]

it's a simple size/weight scale acceptor. anyhting that is of a similar size and weight to the coin it's designed to take (likely quarter) it will take.

it's lets the game know a coin has been inserted by a mechanical switch.

[Haloman800]

Due to Thanksgiving, Amazon projects my new coin mech won't arrive until Monday. If it doesn't work then my next move will probably be picking up the one listed above. I'll keep you guys posted. Happy Thanksgiving!

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[matsadona]

First, having the correct voltage at the PSU isn't necessarily a good thing - usually it needs to be some % higher since there is always some loss in the cables and connectors before it reaches the actual game board. This varies from one cabinet to another and generally it is a bigger problem the more power consuming the game is (since higher current creates a higher voltage loss over ( U=I*R)).
So for a 60-in-1 board it should be more or less something you could disregard.

One thing you could easily test is to disconnect the PSU and hook up the board with a good standard PC PSU with the molex connector, and then let the coin validator get power "backwards".

[Haloman800]

Hey guys, I got the new coin mech in & installed it. Simultaneously, the power socket decided to fail (bad soldering), my repairman happened to have some quick connects & wired up the new one. So finally...

...The coin door works!

Thank you all for your help!

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