Dig Dug Cabaret [aka good old #325] Restoration

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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n3wt0n:
This is a really nice restore. A good thread too. Thanks for taking the time to document your progress. The end result is going to be fantastic!

8BitMonk:

--- Quote from: n3wt0n on November 05, 2016, 07:48:14 am ---This is a really nice restore. A good thread too. Thanks for taking the time to document your progress. The end result is going to be fantastic!

--- End quote ---

Thanks for the props! :cheers: Knowing it's appreciated and how much I've learned from other restoration threads keeps me motivated to document it.

8BitMonk:
Cardboard Monitor Bezel

The original cardboard monitor bezel was fairly thrashed, it was ripped in spots and had been re-stapled many times.

Joeycuda over on klov makes and sells cardboard bezels like these and does a good job but I decided to make this one myself.

Start with the right board

You don't want to use regular matt board with a white core, it doesn't hold up well to bending/scoring and will crack. below is a trial I did on normal matt board.

The original were black printing on a stiff cardboard, the closest I could find is a cold press board they sell at Michaels. It's a little bit thicker than the original cardboard. The two sides have a slightly different finish as you can see below.

Tools and materials

Large cutting board, Xacto with extra blades, metal rulers, packing tape, double sided tape, painters or white artists tape.

Examine for missing tabs

My bottom piece was missing one of the tabs used to attach to the side pieces and the other was close to falling off. I taped it the one with packing tape and cut a duplicate for the other side.

Rough cut

I placed my original bezel pieces on the coldpress board and made a rough cut around each piece. This makes each piece easier to work with when cutting them out.

Tape down the coldpress board and original

I tape down the coldpress board then the original over the top of it lining it the two flat sides (lower left) so I don't have to make those 2 cuts.

Cut around the original

Use a metal ruler for straight cuts and the original as guide for the curved cuts. The board is fairly thick so it's important to have a new blade and better to go over the cut twice.

Remove original and make scores

The board needs to be scored in areas where it will bend, make a very light cut with almost no pressure on the blade on both sides of the board. For this piece there is a straight fold across the bottom and both tabs.

Fold scores

Carefully folded along score lines. Most of the time it folds in just one direction, the bottom piece and it's tabs fold in opposite directions.

Using the metal ruler as a guide can be useful for longer folds.

Double sided tape

Change blade

Change the blade in between each of the pieces, it'll dull quickly.

Folding larger pieces

Use something fairly heavy (409 bottle below) to help keep pressure on the bigger pieces and keep them flat as you cut around them.

Assemble the pieces

Reinforce the back with packing tape.

Painting

I painted this one black semi-gloss but I think I think the flat black of the original finish is fine, I probably wouldn't paint future ones.

Finished bezel

vwalbridge:
The only thing that frustrates me about your restore threads is deciding which one I'm going to nominate for the "BYOAC restore of the year". ;)

8BitMonk:

--- Quote from: vwalbridge on November 10, 2016, 02:36:50 pm ---The only thing that frustrates me about your restore threads is deciding which one I'm going to nominate for the "BYOAC restore of the year". ;)

--- End quote ---

Thanks for the kind words sir! Lots of work going into this one, I thought I was going to be done with it weeks ago. :D

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