Cheap 3D printer

[knave]

I couldn't resist ordering one of these. Small 3D printer for $170. In case any of you want to take a stab too...

Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer

List price is $199.99
Use code: TRIPLE15 for 15% off...comes to $169.99

[BadMouth]

...almost pulled the trigger last time it was that price.
Not sure I have enough spare time to learn how to use it. 

[Slippyblade]

Review here makes it sound like a pretty darn good deal... 

http://hackaday.com/2016/06/13/review-monoprice-mp-select-mini-3d-printer/

[Slippyblade]

ROFL!  The price on that link has jumped up by almost $100 since you posted it.  Order directly from Monoprice.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2

[Howard_Casto]

I'm tempted, but I think I would find a cnc more useful. 

[HaRuMaN]

I'm tempted, but I think I would find a cnc more useful.

You find a $200 CNC, let me know.   

[05SRT4]

I'm tempted, but I think I would find a cnc more useful.

Just slap a Dremel on the hot end and your good to go.

[PL1]

I'm tempted, but I think I would find a cnc more useful.

You find a $200 CNC, let me know.   

The MPCNC is pretty close . . . if you already have a 3D printer and a spindle like a Dewalt 660/Dewalt 611/Bosch Colt.



Buying the small^* printer mentioned in the OP and enough filament (<2 spools) would cost just a bit more than buying the $190 printed parts bundle.


Scott
^* Be sure to check if any of the MPCNC parts are too large to print on that machine -- not sure about the minimum required print volume.
EDIT: On second examination, the black Z-axis piece in the middle looks too large.
Probably better to buy the printed parts and add the $60 extruder so you'll have a large 3D printer and CNC.   

[Generic Eric]

I look forward to sending you warhammer 40K files to print.

Do you have a method to scan?  UPS suggested an app to use to scan a thing and send it to them to be printed.

[05SRT4]

I tried an app on my android and the results were terrible. Check out Thingiverse they usually have a ton of models ready for printing. Im down to mail you out something if its not ridiculous.

[05SRT4]

I couldn't resist ordering one of these. Small 3D printer for $170. In case any of you want to take a stab too...

Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer

List price is $199.99
Use code: TRIPLE15 for 15% off...comes to $169.99

OP is this going to be your 1st 3d printer?

[Howard_Casto]

I'm tempted, but I think I would find a cnc more useful.

You find a $200 CNC, let me know.   

The MPCNC is pretty close . . . if you already have a 3D printer and a spindle like a Dewalt 660/Dewalt 611/Bosch Colt.

That's a nice kit!  I doubt I could make one for that price.  Hmm.... I might have to set some money aside. 



Buying the small^* printer mentioned in the OP and enough filament (<2 spools) would cost just a bit more than buying the $190 printed parts bundle.


Scott
^* Be sure to check if any of the MPCNC parts are too large to print on that machine -- not sure about the minimum required print volume.
EDIT: On second examination, the black Z-axis piece in the middle looks too large.
Probably better to buy the printed parts and add the $60 extruder so you'll have a large 3D printer and CNC.   

[knave]

OP is this going to be your 1st 3d printer?

Yes, this will be my 1st 3d printer. I did Kickstart one a while ago but it won't ship until the end of the year at least.

I mostly hope to learn with this printer. Nice that it has a heated bed. I ordered 3 spools of filament and the printer for just over $200.

The most practical things I will print will be Quadcopter parts. But Folks are pretty creative. Thingiverse has a ton of cool stuff to print.

Edit: Just received my shipment notice late last night 2-5 days.

[05SRT4]

Nice, let me know if you have any questions. I have been using the PrintrBot Simple Metal for a few years now. It sucks cause I just spent another 150 just to upgrade the print bed size and add a heater. Whats the print bed size of the one you got?

Also I am actually thinking about starting a quad copter build myself. I bought some carbon fiber filament hoping that would work well.

[BadMouth]

Bah, broke down and ordered one too!  (it's your fault)

The learning experience is worth $200 to me.
I'll see how I get along with this before dropping the money on a CNC router.

Worst case scenario is that I can't wrap my head around the software and only print a couple things.
Best case scenario is that I design and print parts to convert an arcade joystick to analog.

[pbj]

3D printing Warhammer figurines.  It's like you nerds don't even have to try anymore. 

What happened to casting your own pewter knock offs?

[Slippyblade]

Whats the print bed size of the one you got?

From what I've read, about 4.5" cubed.

What happened to casting your own pewter knock offs?

I remember doing that.  I used a lot of lead though.  Tire weights are free...

[HaRuMaN]

I used a lot of lead though.

This explains... a lot. 

[Slippyblade]

I used a lot of lead though.

This explains... a lot. 

Not like I was chewing on them!

[HaRuMaN]

I used a lot of lead though.

This explains... a lot. 

Not like I was chewing on them!

[knave]

Whats the print bed size of the one you got?

From what I've read, about 4.5" cubed.

Close:
Specs list 120mm x 120mm or about 4.7" x 4.7"

That said. It has arrived. Now I have to find some time to set it up.
From what I've seen on Youtube...The Cura 3d Slicing software is not to tough to use or and one can always just print models from the internet.
There seemed to be some arcade related stuff on thingiverse. Time will tell.

[05SRT4]

Right, Cura is super easy to use. There is also an expert menu that opens more options.

For super super easy and basic 3d designing I use TinkerCad its free and web based so no installing anything.

You can also import STL's from Thingiverse and make simple modifications.

[knave]

I have partially set up the printer. Their was not enough time last night to finish and start a test print.

...It will just have to wait. I'm out of town this weekend.

I am impressed with the quality and feel of this printer. I'm no expert but I buy a lot of cheap gear and this does not feel as inexpensive as it is.

[JDFan]

Looks like too many of you guys placed orders !!! --- Jet raised the price another $100 to $275 and Monoprice is out of stock but still lists it at $199 but who knows what it will be when they restock !

[BadMouth]

Glad I got it when I did.  I screwed up by adding a couple rolls of filament to the same order though.
The 15% off tops out at $30, so that was maxed out by the printer alone.
Doing the filament as a separate order would have saved me another $6. 
My cheap bastard game is getting weak.   

[knave]

Glad I got it when I did.  I screwed up by adding a couple rolls of filament to the same order though.
The 15% off tops out at $30, so that was maxed out by the printer alone.
Doing the filament as a separate order would have saved me another $6. 
My cheap bastard game is getting weak.   

Ah, me too...I was wondering why the Out the Door price of the printer was $172 after I added the filament. My consolation is that it all got here together, and was pretty quick.

Still a pretty sweet deal.

[knave]

I have been pretty pleased with the printer so far.

I have printed some Fate Dice, a personalized keychain for my wife, a toy car with rolling wheels, a 40K Space Marine and a child lock for a lever doorknob.

Here is a pic of the dice, car and Space Marine.

[pbj]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

[Howard_Casto]

Well my concern on those things has always been the cost to size ratio.  Like the little toy car.... how much filament did it use?  I mean a spool is 20-30 bucks, so unless it's mere pennies worth of plastic, it would be cheaper in most circumstances to just order a part. 

I've been wanting to get one for prototyping.... perhaps print out positives for sand casting or something. 

[vwalbridge]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

This ^ sentence should be required on the sides of all 3D printers.

With the exception of Arcadenut's brilliant Any Coin mech, I have yet to see a 3D printer yield anything useful.

[Howard_Casto]

As the prices continue to drop on these things I think you will see that change.  The main problem is people that invent things typically don't have a lot of money.... they make their own solution because they have to.  Anyone inclined to buy a 3d printer just for the heck of it are probably going to throw money instead of ingenuity at a problem. 

Don't get me wrong, this one is super cheap, but then again the print quality isn't all that great.  Precision printing costs money. 

[knave]

I have yet to see a 3D printer yield anything useful.

Useful is a broad term. 3d Printed stuff can be useful, pointless or it can be junk.
But lets get this straight. this 3d printer is mostly a toy. Granted it can make other toys. 

Bottom line, the sum of all the parts of the 3d printing experience make it totally worth $200.
For me, its an entry fee into a hobby that is going to drive me to learn 3d modeling, expand my knowledge of hardware and electronics plus let me print out dollar store trinkets with the occasional useful item thrown in. Printing repair parts is just one example. I've spent more $$ on arcade parts that are just sitting around the garage doing nothing.

As for cost of ownership...time will tell. So far the spool of blue PLA filament cost me $15 and I had the printer running all weekend and have yet to make a dent in the 2.2 Lb roll.
I estimate the car took .15¢ worth of material. (probably less, I am guessing I can print out at least 100 of those little cars, it could easily be more)
The lever doorknob child lock is ~5-10$ on amazon and I printed one out for ~$1. 

This is just the beginning. Sure I can buy better versions of most of what I can print out myself...but the fact remains that I am turning a roll of plastic wire into objects. That is Amazing!
And the few times that I need that specific custom plastic part will be all the more sweet!. But really its to make more toys!

As I mentioned I want to print out some Quadcopter parts.

Edit:  Quadcopter examples

[opt2not]

With the exception of Arcadenut's brilliant Any Coin mech, I have yet to see a 3D printer yield anything useful.

A few items I've had printed for me that were useful to our hobby/obsession:
CPS2 replacement volume/test buttons:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/4AQJ6TAMP/capcom-cps2-volume-test-buttons?optionId=55339062

LCD Board holder for Multi CPS2
http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/420-3d-printed-cases-for-the-multicpsii-lcd-board/

Tray for the Sega Saturn Rhea mod:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926

People have been printing other arcade parts like replacement gears for star wars yokes, and bits and pieces here and there. Personally I'd rather just give plans to someone who owns a printer, or a service that prints for you. Space and money are limited and unless I plan on printing out mass quantities I don't think there's a point of owning one, in my opinion.
It's the same for a CNC router.

[vwalbridge]

With the exception of Arcadenut's brilliant Any Coin mech, I have yet to see a 3D printer yield anything useful.

A few items I've had printed for me that were useful to our hobby/obsession:
CPS2 replacement volume/test buttons:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/4AQJ6TAMP/capcom-cps2-volume-test-buttons?optionId=55339062

LCD Board holder for Multi CPS2
http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/420-3d-printed-cases-for-the-multicpsii-lcd-board/

Tray for the Sega Saturn Rhea mod:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926

People have been printing other arcade parts like replacement gears for star wars yokes, and bits and pieces here and there. Personally I'd rather just give plans to someone who owns a printer, or a service that prints for you. Space and money are limited and unless I plan on printing out mass quantities I don't think there's a point of owning one, in my opinion.
It's the same for a CNC router.

I stand corrected. Those parts are in fact useful for sure. 

I agree, owning one doesn't seem to make sense...no matter how cheap they are. I'll always just buy what someone else can make in higher volumes.

I'll also look forward to the day when the surface of the 3D part doesn't feel like layers of hair glued together.

[BadMouth]

I managed to print 1/4 of the included cat file with the included filament before heading out of town last week. 
It was enough to get a feel for the resolution.  The PLA is tougher than I thought it would be.

I agree with the sentiment of 98% of the stuff out there being useless trinkets.

My eventual goal is to make gears and guides to convert a Sanwa JLF to analog.
I also want to make brackets for a DIY UHF antenna.
The rest will probably just be custom PCB enclosures or sensor brackets.

Next time I use it, I'm going to plug it into an energy use monitor to see how much electricity it is using.

My primary reason for buying it was to learn the software which will carry over to using a CNC router down the road.

[pbj]

CPS2 replacement volume/test buttons:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/4AQJ6TAMP/capcom-cps2-volume-test-buttons?optionId=55339062

This is the kind of stuff I find in the bottom of a cabinet, go "WTF is this?" and then throw it away without regrets.

[opt2not]

CPS2 replacement volume/test buttons:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/4AQJ6TAMP/capcom-cps2-volume-test-buttons?optionId=55339062

This is the kind of stuff I find in the bottom of a cabinet, go "WTF is this?" and then throw it away without regrets.

I think I have a few of these as well that were in a drawer for a long time. But I got these printed to have it match the B-board of my Multi-CPS2...'cause you know,

. Pretty silly i know.

[yotsuya]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

I dunno, I bought a $32 laser printer,  I got a $32 laser printer. It's "good enough", which is probably what this 3D printer is - good enough.

[05SRT4]

When I first got my printer a year ago I only printed little trinket art stuff.

Now its more of building actual parts. Yesterday I needed some mounts for my HTC vive base stations. Normally they would be screwed on your walls. I wanted an easy way to move them around so I designed and printed some mounts that attach to extendable poles. I found some on amazon for 35 bucks.

35$ added to the overall list of things Ive made to save some cash.

But not just saving some dough, I always have fun putting my ideas on paper, then CAD then print.

[Howard_Casto]

I think something this cheap is in the realm of a tool you can just buy for the sake of buying it and having the option.  I just have concerns like the others is all. 

I can almost guarantee you that I'll pick one up the next time a good sale is on.  I have..... plans..... mwah ha ha ha ha ha!

[pbj]

I don't think any of us are knocking the idea of having one of these to play with, I'm just waiting to be convinced on the expense and actual utility of it.

[HaRuMaN]

I hear you can play gauntlet legends 110% on it...

[pbj]

Meh, Gauntlet Legends died when Diablo 3 came out on PS4. 

10,000 chicken wings and a couple hundred hours later I think I'm good on the action RPGs.

[ChadTower]

People have been printing other arcade parts like replacement gears for star wars yokes, and bits and pieces here and there.

Figures.  People finally get the tech to print these but not after real ones become commonly available.


If using this to print out a positive to make a mold how would one deal with the surface texture?  Sand it down?

[dkersten]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

Yeah, because building/acquiring/restoring arcade cabinets and pinball machines is so practical. 

If nobody here was willing to piss away money to do something fun, this site wouldn't exist.  The day I start caring about whether my hobby is "cost effective" and "financially responsible" is the day I stop having hobbies.

[PL1]

how would one deal with the surface texture?  Sand it down?

Sand/prime/paint is one way.


If you're printing with ABS, you can use an acetone pen or acetone vapor.





Another option is epoxy.




Scott

[yotsuya]

Here is the secret to infinite wealth and glory!

! No longer available

[ChadTower]

That is pretty cool.  The support material must be printed using a different plastic than the actual model?

[PL1]

There is a type of filament (PVA) that dissolves in water.

You need a two-extruder printer, one for the print and the other for the supports.




Scott

[Titchgamer]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

Yeah, because building/acquiring/restoring arcade cabinets and pinball machines is so practical. 

If nobody here was willing to piss away money to do something fun, this site wouldn't exist.  The day I start caring about whether my hobby is "cost effective" and "financially responsible" is the day I stop having hobbies.

To true!

Between this, general gaming and Paintball prob 90% of my spare money gets spent lol.

[vwalbridge]

Yeah, because building/acquiring/restoring arcade cabinets and pinball machines is so practical. 

I'll argue it's very practical. At least when I'm done restoring/playing an arcade machine, I can turn around and sell it for someone else to enjoy.

...a 3D printed car? Worthless to the rest of the world.

Do what makes you happy. Everybody has their "thing".

But arcade collecting, restoring, and playing is not impractical, nor throwing your money away.

[opt2not]

So you spend $200 to make dollar store trinkets?

Yeah, because building/acquiring/restoring arcade cabinets and pinball machines is so practical. 

If nobody here was willing to piss away money to do something fun, this site wouldn't exist.  The day I start caring about whether my hobby is "cost effective" and "financially responsible" is the day I stop having hobbies.

Well arcade machines could be built under tighter budgets, but people tend to want to throw all the bells and whistles into their projects, especially the CP hardware and frankenpanels trying to support every damn game ever made. There are plenty of projects here that have been made on a tighter budget and they've turned out pretty well.  But when one wants to throw multiple LCD panels for stuff like Marquee displays and jukebox options, or rather go with Pi hardware than cheaper thrift store PC finds which emulate better and is easier to set-up, then I have no sympathy for their spending habits.

[yotsuya]

Yeah, because building/acquiring/restoring arcade cabinets and pinball machines is so practical. 

I'll argue it's very practical. At least when I'm done restoring/playing an arcade machine, I can turn around and sell it for someone else to enjoy.

...a 3D printed car? Worthless to the rest of the world.

Do what makes you happy. Everybody has their "thing".

But arcade collecting, restoring, and playing is not impractical, nor throwing your money away.

[05SRT4]

That is pretty cool.  The support material must be printed using a different plastic than the actual model?

As mentioned above there is dissolvable filament for easier clean up but you will need a dual extruder. Since I only have one extruder I just use the ABS or PLA that I'm printing with. Generally the supports are easy to remove but there will always be a post clean up on most prints.

[pbj]

I enjoy arcade game ownership more than I enjoy owning plastic cars.  No need to justify it.

[05SRT4]

For those who now have a printer, if you have an extra raspberry pi not being used I would recommend setting up a OctoPrint Server. This allows you to control most printers from any computer/smart phone/tablet on your home network. You can also install the camera module and get live feed of the print and it will also record each print. Really cool software and its free.

[Howard_Casto]

how would one deal with the surface texture?  Sand it down?

Sand/prime/paint is one way.


If you're printing with ABS, you can use an acetone pen or acetone vapor.







Another option is epoxy.




Scott

That's the part of the process that scares me away.  (For now.)  I've been following the progress of the techniques out there and they seem more of an art than a science. 

[mpm32]

For those that worry about the finish of their parts, I just saw this;

http://www.3dprintingsolutions.com.au/PolyMaker/PolySmooth-Filament

[Howard_Casto]

You guys are determined to get me to buy a printer aren't you..... hmmm.... ok it's added to my watch list.

[BadMouth]

I'm only concerned with the texture as much as it affects the functionality of the parts I hope to make.

I haven't had time to do anything with mine yet, except using up the included filament to print out the first 1/4 of a cat figurine. 
This weekend is going to be a bust.  Maybe next week.

[ChadTower]

It is starting to tempt me too.  Not that I need another hobby that requires dedicated space and toys. 


Definitely wouldn't want that rPI setup mentioned below.  I don't need another network printer that never responds when you need it.   


For me it would probably be a solution in search of a problem, though.  I only have one plastic thing for which I have a compelling need (Whodunnit pinball slot machine reels).

[knave]

I enjoy arcade game storage more than I enjoy printing plastic anything.  No need to justify it.

Fixed that for you! 

[Howard_Casto]

I haven't had time to do anything with mine yet, except using up the included filament to print out the first 1/4 of a cat figurine. 
This weekend is going to be a bust.  Maybe next week.

Eek!  That doesn't sound promising.  How much filament did it come with?

I agree with the pi assessment.  No offense to the OS hobbyists out there but most *nix stuff barely works. 

Assuming I could get the parts smooth enough it would be nice for the Camaro.  Last year I broke a 1"x1" plastic cover on the dash.  Outside of scrounging through a junkyard the price for a replacement was something ridiculous like 45 dollars.  I guess the old girl is transitioning into the "classic car" category.  Unfortunately the plastics are starting to get brittle so every time I tinker with it I risk breaking something.

[BadMouth]

I haven't had time to do anything with mine yet, except using up the included filament to print out the first 1/4 of a cat figurine. 
This weekend is going to be a bust.  Maybe next week.

Eek!  That doesn't sound promising.  How much filament did it come with?

Eh, I dunno.  Maybe 10 or 15ft?
I didn't measure it and the new spool is sold by the kg.  (1kg per spool)

I suppose I could weigh the spool before and after printing along with measuring the electric use.
It could be a month before I manage to learn enough to design something worth printing though.
It uses enough that I'm not wasting the plastic by printing out figurines that I'll end up throwing away.

I'm sure the amount of filament used varies greatly depending on how thick the walls are and what type of infill you use.

[Howard_Casto]

Hmm..... maybe you could determine the footage via the software... it extrudes the plastic after all.  Keep us posted.

[BadMouth]

There are so many variables (wall thickness, infil %, etc), the things I print might not translate to the things you want to print.

This gives some idea:


There are longer videos with explanations that go way too far in depth.
On one of them the guy gets 60 3DBenchy tugboats out of one 1kg spool (they are around 2" long and 2" tall) with standard settings.  (that's something like 33 cents each based on $20 a spool)
He squeezes out an extra 13 by cutting the infil % and wall thickness.  meh.


So you can print a lot of light hollow things or not as many solid things.

[knave]

Hmm..... maybe you could determine the footage via the software... it extrudes the plastic after all.  Keep us posted.

I believe the slicing software displays an estimate of filament usage in Meters...but I'll have to double check when I'm in there.

As for power usage the I have mine plugged into a UPS and under load i.e. printing with the nozzle temp at ~220 and the Bed at ~50 degrees Celsius the display read ~90w.

The electronics probably don't eat much power its the heater elements that affect the draw. I bet if I plugged in my soldering iron and turned it up to temp it would be similar.

I only printed some trinkets as proof of concept and to learn how to control the settings. in only a week of use I have learned a ton. Rather than print out the useless cat I printed dice, a space marine and some toys for the kids. My daughter(2 and 1/2) loves that car btw. 

I'm not quite to the point where I can design a part from measured dimensions yet but I'm close...and I'm able to make some custom items (key chains with my family members names on them).
...soon though I will be able to need a part, measure, plug it into a 3d program, slice it for the printer and print my own part.  Fixing broken latches, knobs, custom spacers, standoffs, and repair fasteners are all 100% possible. I have a few broken plastic bits to my car that I would love to print replacements for.

In the mean time it is kinda fun to download toys from the internet.

[BadMouth]

Check out 123D Catch for you phone or tablet.

You take like 30-60 pics around and above an object, then it supposed to create a 3D model from it.
I've only found time to attempt it once, and it failed. 

I'm hoping to use it to replicate and modify stuff.

[Slippyblade]

Check out 123D Catch for you phone or tablet.

You take like 30-60 pics around and above an object, then it supposed to create a 3D model from it.
I've only found time to attempt it once, and it failed. 

I'm hoping to use it to replicate and modify stuff.

I've seen several Instructable style articles for building 3D scanners using a phone.  Some have pretty decent results.

[Howard_Casto]

Lasers are supposed to be more accurate, although you lose the texture data. 

[PL1]

Lasers are supposed to be more accurate, although you lose the texture data. 

The open-source Ciclop 3D Scanner by BQ has had decent reviews -- relatively low cost, but scans sometimes need mesh repair.

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Ciclop


Scott

[05SRT4]

I haven't had time to do anything with mine yet, except using up the included filament to print out the first 1/4 of a cat figurine. 
This weekend is going to be a bust.  Maybe next week.

Assuming I could get the parts smooth enough it would be nice for the Camaro.  Last year I broke a 1"x1" plastic cover on the dash. 

Do you have a picture of the piece or a part number? Id love to print something up for ya.

[Howard_Casto]

I'll see if I can find it, but I think it's long gone.  It's just a little blanker plate used to fill a hole if you don't have fog lights.  I can probably find it locally, it's just one of those things you have to set aside time to do. 

[knave]

Good times with the 3d Printer. Been forced to take a break from almost non-stop printing to do some maintenance.

I'm finding that 3d printing is a lot like a owning classic car. Really cool when it works and requires a lot of tinkering when it doesn't.
I am starting to get a grip on which settings do what and how they affect the print. I'm finding that I want to print out upgrades for the printer too (cool that that's an option) such as a better spool holder and an adapter for a better hot end down the line.

Folks have been printing bearings...witch is a pretty interesting feat.
In any case I have some cleaning filament and some tools coming to clean up my mess and get it back up and running. I'm having a great time learning about this tech but it is very tinker-intensive. At least over here in the budget end of the pool.

[Slippyblade]

I'm having a great time learning about this tech but it is very tinker-intensive. At least over here in the budget end of the pool.

Nah, my Brother-in-Law has a $1200 setup and he has to do the exact same level of tinkering on a regular basis.  His is a dual head model though. 

[Locke141]

Tray for the Sega Saturn Rhea mod:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546926

Sweet! Downloaded

When I started my first built I had access to a large 3D printer, a CNC, and a CNC 60 watt laser. The CNC laser was by far the best in terms of usability and had the lowest learning curb. 3D printers are cool but they do take a lot of effort to keep them running right.

That sad if we did not just become a Single income family with a new baby on the way, I would definitely be tempted by something like this.

Although I have also had my eye on a 40 watt CNC laser for a while and that would probably take priority.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260825065645?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT   

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah I saw one for the dreamcast mod I'll eventually do as well. 

CNC's definitely seem easier from my limited experience.  The entry price point is rather high though.  I'm thinking of getting a 3d printer to print parts for a cnc.  I've seen where some print heads can do composite metal filaments, which really opens up the ability to print strong things.   

[ChadTower]

I'm finding that 3d printing is a lot like a owning classic car. Really cool when it works and requires a lot of tinkering when it doesn't.

Pinball.

[pbj]

Haven't taken the glass off any of my machines in almost two years.  Pinball isn't THAT unreliable.

[vwalbridge]

A 3D printed door handle that works without moving parts...except that it doesn't. It has more moving parts than a real door handle. 

[ChadTower]

Haven't taken the glass off any of my machines in almost two years.  Pinball isn't THAT unreliable.

It is if you have people over.  A game will work perfectly for years and the first time guests play it bam something goes wrong.  No matter how well shopped a game is.  Just how it seems to work.

[Howard_Casto]

A 3D printed door handle that works without moving parts...except that it doesn't. It has more moving parts than a real door handle. 

Not to mention you would have to respond to the question "WTF happened to your door?"  Every time you had someone over.  Seriously... it makes legos look stylish.

[ChadTower]

It's the door hinge that is the real star of that idea.   

[Howard_Casto]

Heh yeah.  I think any door built with that stuff is more of a suggestion than an actual barrier.  A stiff fart would blow that thing apart. 

[Xiaou2]

Haven't taken the glass off any of my machines in almost two years.  Pinball isn't THAT unreliable.

It is if you have people over.  A game will work perfectly for years and the first time guests play it bam something goes wrong.  No matter how well shopped a game is.  Just how it seems to work.

 I will agree that Pins can break often..   and many parts were never well designed to last long - against such extreme impacts.
And, do not take this as a personal attack..  but its been my personal experience... that most pinball machines break often, due to a low level of maintenance being done on them... and or something that not right, and was not caught... until it was too late.

 Its a lot of work to make sure everything is tight, put together correctly, not stripped / cracked, not missing things.   And even then... the amount of vibration from the coils,  causes all of the fasteners to get loose again...  so you have to re-tighten every few months in heavy play situations.  Locktite could possible help.   Always make sure the threaded mounting holes/brackets,  and flipper bushings,  are in great shape.   Anything loose, will not mesh well,  and eventually will cause all sorts of broken.   

 Note: Even a slightly loose or bent part, such as a post or the flipper shaft...  can cause the the part to angle a bit,  and it will act like a wedge-ramp  to the ball - causing an airball (or crazy spin action that leads to one)  .. then probably cracking plastics)   A worn flipper bushing also causes the game to play poorly.. as the flipper travels in an oval path - causing different angles and timings.   It can make difficult shots easy.. and easy shots impossible.  It could ruin the whole flow, and enjoyment of a game.   I really think they should have made that assembly, far more robust.

 Its worth it to replace both flipper assemblies immediately  (the Full kits: bushing, switches, and all)....

 And then buy the clear lexan plastic protector kits.  Cracked plastics can be difficult to find replacements for, and they can be quite expensive.   

 The new remake plastics are often made with non-authentic / incorrect line and dot work...  but worse,  is that the colors are almost always atrociously-off.  Too sad.


 I also recommend use of turtle wax's  product called  F21 (Formula 21).   Should be in a lime green spray bottle in the automotive sections.
Its FAR better than wax.  More protective,  noticeably increased ballspeed, looks glossy and new, protects against UV fading,  and does not trap and track gunk all over the field like wax does.   Tested this with two machines in the busy mall arcade... and I went from needing a weekly cleaning..  to being able to clean once every 2 to 4 weeks.  Even at 4 weeks... the field wasnt 1/100th the mess that wax would have been.   And it only took a mild wipedown in the visible and easy to get at areas... to keep it that way.    No more +2hr sessions tearing apart subways and ramps.   Use it on the cabinet as well.  UV protection, and brings out a glossy and color-enhancing shine.

[Xiaou2]

I really like the idea of 3d printing... but I keep thinking about the extruder form,  as being mostly unusable.

 For gears.. they will be inaccurate, weak, and the particular materials + way they are printed.. gives them a rough high-friction nature.
Sure, you could try coating them with a layer of epoxy or something... but that may interfere with the mesh.  It also wont last... as it will grind off in short time.

 Flame-melting them a hair might help.. but then you are going to get shrinkage and or deformations.  Either way.. gears wont last long when they are not make fairly precise.

 Maybe you make a prototype mouse shell?   But again.. you have this meshy bumpy surface to deal with.   And the stuff is not very strong.. especially with thin walled things like this.

 The stiff probably isnt strong enough for the typical parts you might want to use to repair a device or toy with.  Unless you dont mind changing the part every few weeks.    In many cases.. you could probably just carve some plastic parts yourself with a dremel or similar.. for certain parts.. and have them be lastibly usable - where the 3d print would fail fairly quickly.

 So all that is left is stuff like Figurines.   Low quality, high grit, probably slightly warped / distorted.
And.. unless you are a master-3d modeler... your probably only ever downloading something out there.. rather than what you really might actually want.  (and then still wanting it in far better quality)


 On the other hand..  the 3d printing that really impressed me.. is the laser-based machines... that either cure a powder,   or a liquid bath.
The result of those are on a whole other scale.    While it is stronger than extruder stuff.. they still may not have very durable lasting  strength.   Still..with this kind of printer .. the decorative aspects, and the sheer accuracy levels.. are astoundingly awesome.


 In the end... I think I would rather own a CNC router, instead of one of the extruder types of printers.   Maybe a thin laser cutter too.
(if one had the money.. one could attach a plasma cutter to a CNC table .. to deal with metals)

[BadMouth]

I was originally waiting for the laser machines to become more mainstream, but $170 was too cheap to pass up.
The learning experience alone is worth that much to me.
This weekend, I might actually find time to tinker with it.

[05SRT4]

Wondering if you guys were able to get this calibrated? Any prints you'd like to share?

[BadMouth]

I set up a designated area for the tiny printer (and future devices) below an exhaust fan in my basement.
That's as far as I got. 

I've been too busy winterizing my house and watching football.
Finally cleaned up the basement yesterday after making a mess of it insulating the rim joists.
Hopefully this week I'll find some time.

[knave]

I've printed a bunch of stuff. I really enjoyed the learning curve. Their is a great facebook group for ideas and information as well as a ton of examples.

After a while it was time to do some maintenance. I am upgrading my extruder arm and nozzle while I'm at it. I also got some tempered glass screen protectors from the dollar store to try out as a print surface.
Fine tuning the settings can be overwhelming...but after playing with it, I can load up Cura and specify the print settings and know what most of them will do the the print.

Sadly...For me at least now that the novelty has faded...I just don't "NEED" to print anything. I'm over the print a bunch of toys and trinkets phase.
It is still worth it, and am planning a few projects.

[BadMouth]

Not sure how I missed this website earlier, but for anyone else who picked up this printer and wasn't aware:
http://www.mpselectmini.com/

I didn't even realize the thing had wifi. 
After floundering around with the various options, I think the g-code method to load the wifi password and then utilizing it via a browser window are the easiest way to go.
You do have to update the UI firmware before it will work.
Firmware updates are unsupported by monoprice.  I was afraid to update the motor movement firmware since I haven't had any issues with the current version.

Knave, how did the tempered glass screen protectors work out?
I've done a half dozen prints on PEI and it shows no signs of wear.
I've only had one print fail.  It was because the code I downloaded off the internet didn't have the heated bed kick on and I didn't catch it.
Ten minutes later there's a half printed/half blob object being drug around by the nozzle.

[Howard_Casto]

I don't know if this is useful to anyone, but for the clones at least, the wifi option is just a mini Bluetooth dongle designed for Arduino projects that just plugs in and can be used with most printers with a simple firmware update.  There is a Bluetooth and wifi version available and I think they run around 10 bucks. 

I'm interested in the glass results as well. 

[BadMouth]

I've done a half dozen prints on PEI and it shows no signs of wear.

To follow up on this and avoid having misleading information out there....

I did a bunch of prints of PLA at 195 with a bed temperature of 55 and the PEI showed no signs of wear.
Last night, I tried experimenting with hotter settings and at 200/60 the PEI blistered where the first outside edge went down.
It's faint, but it was visible on the bottom of the next print.
I'm still happy with the PEI, but going to keep the temps at 195/55.
Not happy that I have to spend a half hour cleaning the adhesive off and applying a new layer. 

[SammyWI]

That's strange.  I regularly run PETG at 235 / 60 on PEI and it has never been a problem.  Different printer but same principles.  I've seen plenty of folks running a lot hotter than that on a PEI bed. Is it the PEI that blistered or the adhesive?

[BadMouth]

That's strange.  I regularly run PETG at 235 / 60 on PEI and it has never been a problem.  Different printer but same principles.  I've seen plenty of folks running a lot hotter than that on a PEI bed. Is it the PEI that blistered or the adhesive?

I'm not sure.  Where the outline of the first layer went down has turned from clear to white-ish and it is raised just enough to be visible on the bottom of the next print if held at an exact angle.  It's thin, adhesive backed peel and stick stuff.  I was thinking maybe it being so thin was the issue.   I hadn't considered that maybe it was the adhesive.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printing-Ultem-PEI-Sheet-3-mil-backed-with-3M-Adhesive-12x12-/322261722877?hash=item4b084ba6fd:g:1K0AAOSwMtxXtMAr

I suppose it's also possible that that outline was stuck better than the rest and I lifted/stretched the PEI when removing the part.
I usually give parts a twist to remove them.  The plastic knife that came with the printer seems useless.

EDIT: I see the same seller also has 10 mil thick.  Is that more standard?

[SammyWI]

That actually looks the same as the tape I use but I get mine from here: http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei.  But I think that the thicker .030" thick sheets with separate adhesive is more common.  The thin tape just seemed easier (and cheaper) and has worked great for me.  My guess would be that the higher temps increased the part's adhesion to the bed and you may have pulled up too hard and pulled up the tape adhesive underneath, maybe stretched the tape some.  I almost always use a thin spatula to slide under the part and break the adhesion.  I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.  It has a thin but not sharp edge and can flex just enough to get under the part. 

I've heard that citrus based cleaners will take off the adhesive but I'm still on my first sheet so I haven't tried any yet.