£6 Zero Delay Encoder & Mars ME111 Help !

[maxmix]

Hi Guys, I've just wired 2 little USB £6 Zero Delay Encoders up to a 20'' Cabinet

2 Joysticks and 6 buttons either side, 1p Start and 2p start,  everthing running great etc

The Cabinet has a Mars 111 mech, with little 12v Green Credit board, all was working before I rewired the lot....

I have loads of Jamma boards, but there is a laptop in there now which i'm happy with.....

Is it possible to connect this to one of the spare button connections on the encoder, I have loads spare or do I need to mod something !

It's either that or I get an old 50p or 20p mechanical mech S30 and wire the microswitch at the bottom where the coin falls through, straight to a
spare Encoder connection, I have a feeling that will work and configure the mech in Mame menu, my only worry is the mech is 12v !

Would a little relay connected to the Mars 111 work, then I could use the output to work as a keypress on the decoder ?

I'll post up pics when I'm finished, this is my last bit to finish !

I'm sure someone will have this working somehow

Thanks

maxmix

[ed12]

chk out this link
mars ms111 uk coin mech mame - YouTube

ed

[PL1]

InfantSorrow got a coin recognizer working with a ZD encoder here using a solid state relay.

There are wiring diagrams and theory of operation in that thread and a very easy-to-follow relay connection diagram by a_netanel on pg 3.


Scott

[maxmix]

InfantSorrow got a coin recognizer working with a ZD encoder here using a solid state relay.

There are wiring diagrams and theory of operation in that thread and a very easy-to-follow relay connection diagram by a_netanel on pg 3.


Scott

Hi Scott Sorry i'm not seeing the link !

maxmix

[ed12]

 

Re: cheapy 'Zero Delay' USB encoder

use your search function
drop in 

Re: cheapy 'Zero Delay' USB encoder

leave out re:

ed

ps the >here< in scotts link  works great

[maxmix]

Re: cheapy 'Zero Delay' USB encoder

use your search function
drop in 

Re: cheapy 'Zero Delay' USB encoder

leave out re:

ed

ps the >here< in scotts link  works great

Very weird, the ''here'' link takes me to the index, not the thread in question ! Unless i'm doing something wrong lol

maxmix

[PL1]

InfantSorrow got a coin recognizer working with a ZD encoder here using a solid state relay.

There are wiring diagrams and theory of operation in that thread and a very easy-to-follow relay connection diagram by a_netanel on pg 3.

Hi Scott Sorry i'm not seeing the link !

maxmix

The "here" hyperlink should take you to http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137899.0.html.   

Code: [Select]

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137899.0.html

Scott

[maxmix]

Got it.... Thanks Having a read through it now..... :0

maxmix

[maxmix]

I had a look through the 3 pages all very interesting including 2 and a half pages of banter lol

A wee bit of help now, I'll buy a couple from a UK seller, what do I pick from here ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=12v%20relay%205%20pin&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Thanks

maxmix

[PL1]

I'll buy a couple from a UK seller, what do I pick from here ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=12v%20relay%205%20pin&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Looks like either of the first two should work.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-DC-Mini-Power-Relay-SPDT-SRD-12VDC-SL-C-10A-PCB-Mount-5-Pins-Pack-of-2-CN-/251964546307?hash=item3aaa41dd03:g:pV4AAOSwl8NVWeUF

  or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-DC-12V-Coil-10A-125V-AC-10A-28V-DC-5-Pins-SPST-Power-Relay-JQC-3F-/261873782106?hash=item3cf8e4cd5a:g:tdgAAOSwbqpTvTga

The first one appears to have an on/off switching limitation per the datasheet here (I may be misunderstanding it ) and the e-bay listing implies that it might ship from HK.

Operation Time 10msec Max.
Release Time   5msec Max
. . .
Max. ON/OFF Switching
Mechanically  300 operation/min
Electrically     30 operation/min   

The (limited) specs for the second one here are similar for "operation time" but no "on/off switching" info and it ships from UK.   


Scott

[maxmix]

Thanks for your help, tried these ones, should be here in a couple of days

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-DC-12V-Coil-10A-125V-AC-10A-28V-DC-5-Pins-SPST-Power-Relay-JQC-3F-/261873782106?hash=item3cf8e4cd5a:g:tdgAAOSwbqpTvTga

maxmix

[PL1]

While you're waiting for them to arrive, do you have perfboard, a solderable breadboard, or something similar for mounting the relays?   

 


Scott

[maxmix]

While you're waiting for them to arrive, do you have perfboard, a solderable breadboard, or something similar for mounting the relays?   

 


Scott

I would have loved to had some and do a proper job instead of soldering wires straight on to the relay legs

Trouble is i'm 150 miles away from anywhere I could buy this (West coast of Scotland)

maxmix

[PL1]

I would have loved to had some and do a proper job instead of soldering wires straight on to the relay legs

Trouble is i'm 150 miles away from anywhere I could buy this (West coast of Scotland)

Then you can use zip-ties (red) or fishing line to secure the relays (blue) legs-up on a board (brown) with a notch (yellow) and use another zip-tie or two as strain relief for the wires.


Scott

[maxmix]

Quick question (lying in my bed thinking last night lol) (Oh and relays have arrived, not sure if i'll get one fitted before I go in holiday tomorrow)

The thing is (Or is this a daft question) once the relay is connected up and hopefully giving me the signal like a button press for the ZD

How do I set coinage ? I mean 10p 20p 50p £1 coin, they will all give 1 pulse (switch short) how do I make it just 50p a shot from the Mars 111

Or would I need to get the mech programmed to only accept 50p's (I can get this done etc)

What do I do to solve this ? All my buttons are wired and working great, last to wires dangling are for my coin mech / switch

Thanks

maxmix

[Titchgamer]

You would have to re teach the mech if its the programable type (sorry not used that mech)

[maxmix]

Right here we go, I think my last post disappeared before the forum went down, machine all finished now apart from the mech business

On the mech in the picture below, I have inhibited all coins apart from my 20p, so the only coin that can go through is the one I want, as the machine will be set on 20p play only....

I have 3 wires at the top.... Black (Ground) Yellow 12Volts to power the mech and the next one down is the signal wire
this is the wire that would give the pulses to the original Jamma setup etc (Long gone)

BUT ! I dont know how to attach the little 12v relay you guys told me to get, I dont want to blow anything on the Zero Delay board....

Heres the thing When I put a meter across the Black and Green it shows 5v DC constantly, when I drop a 20p through the voltage goes to Zero
for half a sec when the coin triggers this then back up to 5v

I thought i'd try quickly and touch the Black and Green to the ZD, I have 2 wires already coming from there all ready to go, when they are touched
together I get my 1 credit (You will see this on the front of the cabinet picture also below) but the minute I touched the green pulse wire to one side of the coin 1 part on the ZD it started firing up credits 10 in a row, so I gave that idea up about connecting it up without the relay.

I hop all this makes sence, someone will know what I mean, I hope..... So near yet but so far

maxmix

[PL1]

OK . . . that's not the voltage or output waveform that I expected.   

When I put a meter across the Black and Green it shows 5v DC constantly, when I drop a 20p through the voltage goes to Zero
for half a sec when the coin triggers this then back up to 5v

Good news: This sounds like an "active-low" 5v circuit that you could attach directly to an "active-low" 5v encoder with no isolation relay.

Bad news: The ZD encoder is pretty much the only commonly-used "active-high" 5v encoder on the market.   

I thought i'd try quickly and touch the Black and Green to the ZD, I have 2 wires already coming from there all ready to go, when they are touched
together I get my 1 credit (You will see this on the front of the cabinet picture also below) but the minute I touched the green pulse wire to one side of the coin 1 part on the ZD it started firing up credits 10 in a row, so I gave that idea up about connecting it up without the relay.

Good news: Your coin recognizer isn't outputting the usual 12v because otherwise, you would have damaged the ZD.

Sounds like the ZD is behaving the way an "active-high" (5v input=pressed, 0v input=not pressed) device does when an "active-low" (0v input=pressed, 5v input=not pressed) signal is applied.

What to do next?

Find a copy of the manual containing the dipswitch settings and pinouts -- this page is the closest I've found so far and it only has some pinout descriptions.

Once you find that information, there are several possible ways to proceed.

What if you can't find the manual?
1. Blindly fumble around hoping to find the correct switch settings and wiring connections.   

  or

2. Buy an "active-low" encoder.  (IPac, KeyWiz, GPWiz, Xin-Mo, KADE, etc.)

  or

3. Build a simple inverter circuit to change the current "active-low" waveform to "active-high".  (Requires a 7404 Hex Inverter IC + four wires)


Scott

[maxmix]

Tried all dip switches, voltage across ground and signal for coin is still active all the time 5.5DC

Ive ordered this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350806219486?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Can you explain what pins I wire to this IC, from the credit boards ground and signal going in to the switch (Normal push to make)
to make my credit fire in on the ZD board ?

Thanks

maxmix

[PL1]

Can you explain what pins I wire to this IC, from the credit boards ground and signal going in to the switch (Normal push to make)
to make my credit fire in on the ZD board ?

The datasheet for the IC is here -- pinout is on page 3.



The pins you need are:
  1 - Input (1A)  Connect to the "green wire"
  2 - Output (1Y)  Connect to the inboard wire on the ZD encoder input
  7 - Ground
14 - 5v operating voltage (VCC)

If you don't have a good way to get the 5v VCC from the molex red wire or the coin mech, try using the outboard wire from the ZD encoder input.


Scott

[maxmix]

Right Chip came, soldered my 4 wires on, all OK, opened button panel and..... (Not getting you here)

Pin1 Green wire on coin mech (thats the signal wire which putting a meter across with ground shows +5.5DC) So I connect wire to there, done....

Pin2 I tried connecting it to the blue and the white (Thats the 2 push to make connectors from the Zero Delay) a couple of credits now pinged onto Pacman !!!

Pin7 Straight onto the ground (Next to the Yellow) All OK

Pin 14 5v Operating ! Don't know about this ! HELP ! I thought it would be going onto the 12v Yellow ! (Between the Green and Black)

So I don't know what you mean regarding Pin 2 and Pin 14, can you enlighten me please ?

Thanks for putting up with me

maxmix

[PL1]

You're batting .500 so far.

Pin1 Green wire on coin mech (thats the signal wire which putting a meter across with ground shows +5.5DC) So I connect wire to there, done....

Good.   

Pin2 I tried connecting it to the blue and the white (Thats the 2 push to make connectors from the Zero Delay) a couple of credits now pinged onto Pacman !!!

Nope.  Connecting both ZD input wires together is the same as always pressing the button.

The inboard wire (the one closest to the middle of the board) registers a button press when 5v is applied to it.

Normally, the 5v comes from the outboard wire (the one closest to the edge of the board) through the pushbutton switch to the inboard wire.

The inboard wire doesn't care where the 5v comes from, it only knows that "5v = pressed" and "no 5v = not pressed".

For your setup, the 5v comes from the green wire of the mech, in pin 1 of the inverter, out pin 2 of the inverter to the inboard wire.

Only the pin 2 output connects to the inboard wire input on the ZD.

Pin7 Straight onto the ground (Next to the Yellow) All OK

Good.   

Pin 14 5v Operating ! Don't know about this ! HELP ! I thought it would be going onto the 12v Yellow ! (Between the Green and Black)

Connecting 12v to a 5v circuit WILL FRY THE CIRCUIT and release the "magic smoke" that makes all electronics work.   

If you compare electronics to plumbing, voltage is like water pressure.

Imagine connecting a fire truck water pump to garden hose -- the hose will burst because it isn't designed to handle that much pressure.

The good news us that the outboard wire from the ZD encoder has 5v that can power the inverter.

Connect the outboard wire from the ZD encoder to pin 14 to provide the 5v operating voltage (VCC) for the inverter.


Scott

[maxmix]

So is it the blue or white on the ZD i connect the wire to ?

I tried it on them both (Not at the same time) and don't worry i've not been near the yellow 12v that powers the mech

maxmix

PS I thought all of the ZD outs for all the joystick switches and buttons would have had zero voltage (Signal only) Open/Closed

[PL1]

So is it the blue or white on the ZD i connect the wire to ?

It's impossible to say since you haven't posted any pics of your ZD encoder with at least one wire pair connected.   

Different vendors sell ZD encoders with different wire colors.

What the vendors don't do is redesign the board -- that's why I used the inboard/outboard terminology.

Use your multimeter to verify that the outboard wire has 5v on it like Melvinbates did.
(multimeter set to volts, red lead on the outboard wire, black lead on the pin 7 ground wire)

The large back plane on the pcb is in fact the +5 and not the ground (Odd to say the least). 

You can see the wide light-green backplane running along the outer edge and connecting with the outboard pin of each wire pair connector on the near side of the board.


Once you confirm the voltage difference between the pin 7 ground wire and outboard wire is 5v, use it for VCC. (pin 14)

If you can't confirm it, check with the black multimeter lead touching bare metal of the computer case or power supply instead.


Scott

P.S. Which input are you using for coin?  I just noticed that the two inputs in the upper left of the pic above look like they are wired differently than the others.

[maxmix]

Right i've got Pin 14 onto the +5v straight onto the ZD (Coming from the USB 5v from PC, checked voltage and all good)

The white wire is the negative on the ZD and i've connected to that, the blue is 5v (So obv when these 2 touch a credit is produced, how I use it atm, by touching these 2 together momentary

Everything is connected, I drop a 50p through which is the only coin I have left working, I hear the coin counter clicking away but still no credit

Are you sure the blue 5v positive from the ZD should not be connected to something ?

HELP

maxmix

[PL1]

Right i've got Pin 14 onto the +5v straight onto the ZD (Coming from the USB 5v from PC, checked voltage and all good)

5v from USB to pin 14.  Excellent.   

The white wire is the negative on the ZD and i've connected to that, the blue is 5v (So obv when these 2 touch a credit is produced, how I use it atm, by touching these 2 together momentary

Everything is connected, I drop a 50p through which is the only coin I have left working, I hear the coin counter clicking away but still no credit

OK.  Let's confirm that things are working as expected with the inverter.

Pin 1 input from coin mech green wire:
 - Should start at 5.5v
 - When you coin up, it should drop to 0v for a while then return to 5.5v

Pin 2 output to ZD white wire:
 - Should start at logic low (0-1.5v?)
 - When you coin up, it should pop up to 5v for a while then return to logic low

Four questions if the inverter input and output are working as expected:

1. Does touching the 5v from the USB to the coin input white wire register a coin-up?

2. If not, which input are you using for coin?  One of the "upper-left" ones that appears to be different?

3. If you touch the 5v from the USB to the white wire of a different ***not "upper-left"*** input, does it register as a button press?

4. If yes, when you connect the ZD coin wire to that input, does dropping a coin register as a button press?


Scott

[ed12]

hi ppl
I have been trying to follow along , but it looks like either we switched a page or I misread it ?
are u guys going right from the wires that come out of the coin mech ? or from the output header of the coin decoder board ?

ed

[PL1]

hi ppl
I have been trying to follow along , but it looks like either we switched a page or I misread it ?
are u guys going right from the wires that come out of the coin mech ? or from the output header of the coin decoder board ?

ed

I was hoping you'd chime in, Ed.   

Since we don't have a manual for the mech, we were trying to use the green wire in this pic.

When I put a meter across the Black and Green it shows 5v DC constantly, when I drop a 20p through the voltage goes to Zero
for half a sec when the coin triggers this then back up to 5v

Is there a better way to hook it up using the header on the right?

If the ZD won't trigger using 5v from the hex inverter or header on the right, can the header drive a 5v or 12v solid state relay?
(IIRC the hex inverter can't supply the necessary current to drive a SSR.)


Scott

[ed12]

np
just want some clearity here
if u are not using the  board ? , then the op knows they cannot set the coin or channel value ?
if such is the case and not important ? then remove the plug going to the board , and I will give u the pins to use and forget about using the board , it is a ok I will never use the board or hold on I want the board ? if the later is the case ? stop playing with the input
and turn the board over so I can give u the proper output line and channel's enable/disenable lines
there is going to be
4=enable lines
4=disable lines
1=vcc
1=gnd
1=output >pulse<
now these lines are setup through the switch's
also in that bank should be the output style switch  +/-
ie pulse goes high , pulse goes low >output<
also please note the vcc to that board will be 12-14 volts

also exactly what dose the header going to the coin mech hook up to ?
a picture of that would be handy as well

ed

[ed12]

ok just to follow up
I have
1=ms-100
1=ms-111
right here for ref.


 Specifications:
•Voltage: 12V (10V - 15V)
•Current: MS111 400mA ~ 2.3A
 ME111 50mA ~ 2.3A
 Weight: approx 500 grams
 Dimensions: approx 5cm(w)x12.8cm(d)x19cm(h)

 Connector Pin out Description:

 ME111 Group: (15 pins)
 Pin Number Function Description

 13 V.Com Selects Output Polarity
 12 Ch. F Output ���£1 Output
 11 Blank
 10 Ch. E Output 50P Output
 9 Ch. D Output 20P Output
 8 Blank
 7 Ch. C Output 10P Output
 6 Ch. C Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 10P
 5 +12V DC Supply +
 4 0V DC Supply -
 3 Ch. D Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 20P
 2 Ch. E Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 50P
 1 Ch. F Inhibit Stops Acceptance of ���£1

 ME111 Group: (17 pins)
 Pin Number Function Description
 17 Ch. A Output 5P Output
 16 Ch. B Output Token Output
 15 V.Com Selects Output Polarity
 14 Ch. F Output ���£1 Output
 13 Blank
 12 Ch. E Output 50P Output
 11 Ch. D Output 20P Output
 10 Blank
 9 Ch. C Output 10P Output
 8 Ch. C Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 10P
 7 +12V DC Supply +
 6 0V DC Supply -
 5 Ch. D Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 20P
 4 Ch. E Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 50P
 3 Ch. F Inhibit Stops Acceptance of ���£1
 2 Ch. B Inhibit Stops Acceptance of Token
 1 Ch. A Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 5P

is your exact pin out for the board if u have it ?


ed

[PL1]

if u are not using the  board ? , then the op knows they cannot set the coin or channel value ?

AFAIK OP just wants to wire things so a coin drop ==> button press on the ZD encoder.

The ZD encoder appears to be an active-high device with 5v common on the backplane also since the hex inverter apparently didn't work, the ZD may use isolated ground(s) on the inputs or draw more current than the inverter can provide.
(I don't have a ZD, just working off what others have reported.  )

The two confirmed ways to make the ZD encoder work are:
  1. Use a button with a microswitch. (easy, but not what OP wants)
  2. Use a relay for the button press.

OP already bought this 12v solid state relay. (I expected the coin-up output to be a 12v positive pulse, not 5v dropping to ground.  )

if such is the case and not important ? then remove the plug going to the board , and I will give u the pins to use and forget about using the board , it is a ok I will never use the board or hold on I want the board ? if the later is the case ? stop playing with the input
and turn the board over so I can give u the proper output line and channel's enable/disenable lines

I'm not sure how OP has it connected currently -- pics would help us help him.

Does "turn the board over so I can give u the proper output line and channel's enable/disenable lines" mean that you need a picture of the solder-side of the board or a better view of the header on the right?

also in that bank should be the output style switch  +/-
ie pulse goes high , pulse goes low >output<

This sounds promising for driving the relay.   

also please note the vcc to that board will be 12-14 volts

I'm pretty sure the top yellow wire in the pic above is the 12v vcc for the board.

also exactly what dose the header going to the coin mech hook up to ?
a picture of that would be handy as well

Good question.

Based on your experience with this mech/board and the info above, do you have any suggestions on how to use the mech/board to drive the relay that turns a coin drop into a button press of the ZD?

I agree that more pics from OP would help.

ME111 Group: (15 pins)
 Pin Number Function Description

 13 V.Com Selects Output Polarity
 12 Ch. F Output ���£1 Output
 11 Blank
 10 Ch. E Output 50P Output
 9 Ch. D Output 20P Output
 8 Blank
 7 Ch. C Output 10P Output
 6 Ch. C Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 10P
 5 +12V DC Supply +
 4 0V DC Supply -
 3 Ch. D Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 20P
 2 Ch. E Inhibit Stops Acceptance of 50P
 1 Ch. F Inhibit Stops Acceptance of ���£1
. . .
is your exact pin out for the board if u have it ?

He has the 15 pin version, but I'm not sure how to wire the relay to this or what switch settings are needed.


Scott

[ed12]

thk-u scott
yes/yes/yes to 90% of your questions
I do however believe if this is the me-111/ms-111 that I know of then under the hood of that thing were the wires in question go is all he needs. I posted on this >see the pinout below<
so yes a picture under the hook of this mech would go real far.
let me look into the zd encorder

ed

[ed12]

ok I looked into the encoder
it is active low in correct

I believe I covered this in the pin out I posted
photos would be handy here

ed

[PL1]

ok I looked into the encoder
it is active low in correct

Are you talking about the ZD encoder?

It has a 5v common backplane connected to the outer pin in each wire pair according to Melvinbates' measurement.

An active-low device would have a common ground like an IPac/KeyWiz/Xin-Mo/KADE.

On an IPac, pressing the button applies ground to the input, pulling it low. (active-low)

On the ZD, pressing the button applies 5v to the input. (active-high)

Of course, it doesn't matter what type of device the ZD is if we can use the mech to power the relay coil -- the ZD will only see a switch being closed/opened.   

I just can't figure out for sure what wires to connect to the relay coil.

Pin 9 (20p output) and pin 4 (ground) to the relay coil?

How does pin 13 select output polarity?  Jumper from pin 5 (12v supply) to pin 13?

Will the output pulse be 12v?


Scott

[ed12]

hmm must have mis read the inputs to zd
as I read on inputs they reference ground as  there is olny 2 pins each on the input channels of it the >zd encoder<.
on to the ops mech I am totally curious as to is there a control board on it ?
like this

ed

[ed12]

hi ppl
looked over the op's posted photo's
what he has is a very modified coin mech
I highly doubt the op will find the board I posted under the hood....
if u look real close to the picture of the sub board ? at the top of it u will c 6 wires that twist in/out "look close"
they are for the coin type pass mag's >electronic in our case<
to the lower left side of it 2 of the wires of 6 u are counting are for the reject "coil"
under that is the modified coin pass unit >counters< pre say. led barriers perhaps ?
more photo's would not hurt

ed

[ark_ader]

I bought two MARS 111s when I was in Blighty, but I could not hook them up.

Reading this thread it would be cool to have them in my project as I have loads of old UK coinage.

I was reading an article in Slot Tech and it might be of some use.

http://slot-tech.com/members/magazine/lores/may02.pdf

[ed12]

ark_ader
if I may ask ?
I did post a picture of the board. dose yours and or your unit's have this board ?
if so I posted the pin out for the 2 types of plug's used
now if u need parts your in luck.
the software and replacement prom are also good to go.
if u do not know if u have the board's I can up-load a picture of the top side showing the prom
and screw u must re-move to pull the hood off of it

ed

[ark_ader]

ark_ader
if I may ask ?
I did post a picture of the board. dose yours and or your unit's have this board ?
if so I posted the pin out for the 2 types of plug's used
now if u need parts your in luck.
the software and replacement prom are also good to go.
if u do not know if u have the board's I can up-load a picture of the top side showing the prom
and screw u must re-move to pull the hood off of it

ed

Hi ed,

Yes it looks very similar, I think it is in the garage with my zillions of parts and cables, I will have a look for it over the weekend.

Cheers!

[PL1]

I was reading an article in Slot Tech and it might be of some use.

Yes, it is!      

Inhibit Lines: These lines are used to enable or disable the acceptance of any individual coin type. When these lines are pulled down to 0 volt (ground) then acceptance is enabled. In other words, the coin type is accepted through the validator. If the line is held high (around 2 volt or higher) then the coin type will be rejected. Disconnection of the wire connection to an inhibit pin will also result in coin rejection.

Output Lines: Each of the output lines will give a logic pulse out when a particular coin has been accepted by the validator as a genuine coin. This pulse is then dealt with by the host machine’s microprocessor. The pulse out is dependent on the “Common” input pin (pin 1 in the case of a 13-way connector). In other words, if the common input pin is at +12 volts (and this is usually the case) then every time a coin is accepted, a positive pulse is given out at that particular coin’s output line. When the “Common” input is at 0 volt then outputs will be low.

The 12 volt & 0 volt pins are the power supply for the validator, without which no operation is possible.

Based on this info, the following connections (***) would be required to use 20P coins to trigger a 12v relay:

  1 Coin B (Token) Output
  2 Common Input  ***  12v
  3 Coin F (£1) Output
  4 Keyway (pin removed)
  5 Coin E (50P) Output
  6 Coin D (20P) Output  ***  Relay Coil +
  7 Keyway or Select
  8 Coin C (10P) Output
  9 Coin C Inhibit (10P)
 10 +12V DC Supply +  ***  12v
 11 0V DC Supply -  ***  Ground
 12 Coin D Inhibit (20P)  ***  Ground
 13 Coin E Inhibit (50P)
 14 Coin F Inhibit (£1)
 15 Coin B Inhibit (Token)

The three other connections to make on the relay are:
 * Relay Coil - *** ground
 * COM *** one wire of the ZD
 * NO *** the other wire of the ZD

If the relay chatters, add a snubber diode.

Per this page the 15 pin Mars MS111/B1 and ME111:
-- 12v power supply specs are 2.3A peak current (at moment of coin acceptance) and ~50ma continuous .
-- Output pulses are 100ms long.
-- Outputs can provide up to 40ma each.
-- Connector is a Molex "KK", 0.1" pitch.


Scott