Malenko's HS5 Refresh/Restore

[Malenko]

I dont think this is a project because its NOT a MAME cab. I dont really think its a restore because its generic HS-5 cab made for Street Fighter 3 (tags on the back)
We'll just put in restore since I think it leans closer to that , than a project.  Ultimately it will house a Darksoft Multi CPS2 kit just so I dont have to keep swapping all my CPS2 boards around.

I am breaking my own rule of starting a restore before finishing the current one, but the current one is just waiting on art to be printed and applied, so I think its ok.

So here is how I got it:


and a nice full frontal picture:

[Malenko]

to note, it did NOT come with a power supply, but the seller did order and ship me one from Twisted Quarter:


First step was to strip the ugly Soul Edge CPO and see what was under there:

All ---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow--- aside, I was PSYCHED to find SF2CE art under there.

So I finished stripping the CPO:


Then I just had to populate the panel:


Apparently they spray painted the "corner" piece of the CP, and didnt care about over spray on the CPO:


So I got to clean all that paint off:



Also cleaned off the front, cab was pretty filthy:


Then I pulled the glass off to take the Soul Edge art out, and I was PSYCHED AGAIN to find they had just flipped the SF2CE bezel around and put the SE art on it:

that's after I flipped it back around of course!

Then I stripped the Soul Edge side art off:


Then cleaned:




you can still tell where the art used to be, so Im not sure what Im going to do with the sides. All of my cabs look factory new and are dedicated, so I kinda like having an "aged" generic cab in the mix. VIsuals are TBD.

[Cobolisdead]

Nice work so far!

[reptileink]

Looking forward to what you come up with! Bonus on the SF II!

[Jdurg]

Oh thank you so much for posting this!  I'm desparatley trying to find information and measurements on an HS-5 cabinet as i'm trying to build one myself.  I will follow this thread VERY closely!

By the way, the "Street Fighter 3" sticker on the back, along with the SF2:CE bezel and CPO means that this was a dedicated, from the factory SF2:CE cabinet.  When Capcom outsourced the building of the cabinets to Dynamo, Dynamo only knew that it was a sequel to Street Fighter 2, so they intuitively put "Street Fighter 3" on the back stickers.  So you have yourself a dedicated, SF2:CE cabinet!

I'm actually doing the same thing.  I have a SF2:CE board and artwork that I plan to put into a Dynamo HS-5 that I'm trying to build.  I got the metal CP from E-Bay, and when I was taking the artwork off, I saw that it was originally a SF2:CE as well.  in addition, I've got a Darksoft Multi-CPS2 kit that I will also be putting in the cab.  Sadly, the work on the game(s) hasn't resumed since my flyback blew right around X-Mas, and when it did, the sudden thermal shock from the HV Discharge caused a hairline crack in the neck of the tube to fully open, thus killing the CRT.  I'm awaiting a replacement tube, but in the meantime am trying to get some of the physical cabinet built.   I've got the drawer, the marquee light, power supply, control panel, drawer latches, CP latches, and the square base that everything sits on already built.  i just need to get measurements for the rest of the physical cab so I can built it.  So if you feel like taking some good measurements so that plans can be made to reproduce the cab from scratch, you'd be doing the arcade community a HUGE favor.  Mostly because like Good Ole' Area 51, everybody knows it exists but nobody has any information about it.   

[Malenko]

Oh thank you so much for posting this!  I'm desparatley trying to find information and measurements on an HS-5 cabinet as i'm trying to build one myself.  I will follow this thread VERY closely!

By the way, the "Street Fighter 3" sticker on the back, along with the SF2:CE bezel and CPO means that this was a dedicated, from the factory SF2:CE cabinet.  When Capcom outsourced the building of the cabinets to Dynamo, Dynamo only knew that it was a sequel to Street Fighter 2, so they intuitively put "Street Fighter 3" on the back stickers.  So you have yourself a dedicated, SF2:CE cabinet!

Well how about that, learn something new every day! I am probably going to just get 2 marquees printed up, 1 SF2CE and a custom one for the darksoft. This cab was the only non dedicated one I owned, but now I guess they are technically all dedicated cabs :p

I'm actually doing the same thing.  I have a SF2:CE board and artwork that I plan to put into a Dynamo HS-5 that I'm trying to build.  I got the metal CP from E-Bay, and when I was taking the artwork off, I saw that it was originally a SF2:CE as well.  in addition, I've got a Darksoft Multi-CPS2 kit that I will also be putting in the cab.  Sadly, the work on the game(s) hasn't resumed since my flyback blew right around X-Mas, and when it did, the sudden thermal shock from the HV Discharge caused a hairline crack in the neck of the tube to fully open, thus killing the CRT.  I'm awaiting a replacement tube, but in the meantime am trying to get some of the physical cabinet built.   I've got the drawer, the marquee light, power supply, control panel, drawer latches, CP latches, and the square base that everything sits on already built.  i just need to get measurements for the rest of the physical cab so I can built it.  So if you feel like taking some good measurements so that plans can be made to reproduce the cab from scratch, you'd be doing the arcade community a HUGE favor.  Mostly because like Good Ole' Area 51, everybody knows it exists but nobody has any information about it.   

Yeah I can measure everything, thats not a problem. Ironically enough, I have an area 51 (well, Maximum force 2 in 1)  too

[Jdurg]

If I may quote two very insightful individuals:

[Malenko]

quick and dirty photoshop, thinking about doing this:

[reptileink]

Yellow and blue are always a nice combination (my old catholic elementary school colors)!  However, a matte gold T-molding would look pretty sharp with a darker blue instead of the standard yellow and blue mix.

[johnrt]

Ahh... A swedish cab!    (Look up the swedish flag)

[vwalbridge]

I love how blue and yellow compliment each other. But IKEA just keeps popping in my head.

[harveybirdman]

I had a pair of Adidas pants in that color scheme back in the day....

[jennifer]

    OMG that just seems so wrong, its like some random color, a bad color match at best.... White maybe?

[harveybirdman]

Michigan disagrees with jennifer.

[jennifer]

Michigan disagrees with jennifer.

   I think Michigan should realize Jennifers  awesomeness, and this world would be a far better place....  Glitter, unicorns , and kissing bunnies

[Malenko]

    OMG that just seems so wrong, its like some random color, a bad color match at best.... White maybe?

Capcom's colors are yellow and blue. Im not set on the idea, and you have to remember the CPO is SF2CE, with RW&B buttons, the pic I shopped still had the SE cpo and yellow buttons. Im basically gonna clean and fix up the wiring on this cab before i worry about the icing on the cake.

[jennifer]

   I guess I was thinking the shade of blue is off, Kinda like a bad Ms/Pac repaint match, and the chrome kickplate gives it a service plaza "nobody ever plays me anyway" presence ... But it looks like a fun game, and seems to be in nice condition for its age.... Its in good hands.

[Malenko]

   I guess I was thinking the shade of blue is off, Kinda like a bad Ms/Pac repaint match, and the chrome kickplate gives it a service plaza "nobody ever plays me anyway" presence ... But it looks like a fun game, and seems to be in nice condition for its age.... Its in good hands.

It wont be *that* shade a blue, but darker than the smurfy blue on there now. As for the kick plate, well the bottom box on this HS5 is in worse shape than the bottom box on my OLD HS5 , so the kick plate makes the refinish faster. I might just remove it, spin it 180 degrees repaint it, and reinstall.

As for a fun game, its all 40(?) or so CPS2 games in 1. Everything from Mars Matrix to Puzzle Fighter, Pocket Fighter, the Street Fighter Alphas, Dungeons and Dragons,etc Every cab I own now plays at least 2 games (except my MKII, but Im considering re-drilling the run button and picking up another UMK3 board)

As for it being in good hands..... Thanks

This is my old HS5:


She's still going to get a face lift though, even if I havent decided on colors.

[Malenko]

Sorta skipped ahead with that last reply to Jenn, so back to chronological order!


Here is why I decided to refinish the front, which led me to refinish the whole thing:

The wooden support behind the front panel was broken, as if something hit the front of this cab near the center and did some damage. Mind you it wasnt terrible and was an easy fix, but it just turned into more work.

These lock-down bolt holes also had to go:


stripped everything out and laid her down for surgery:


then got to work:


removed the base, and patched the side:


Also patched the base, and removed the grip block of wood from the top, it will be back before the restore is done


sand,patch, sand, patch, sand, patch, etc


patched up the back, and taped off the top portion where the factory stickers are. I left it like this because its out of sight, and I didnt want to damage the factory stuff


the front also got heaps of sweet sweet bondo loving:


first coat of primer:



and the second coat started! I even primed the base for repaint!

[vwalbridge]

Really great repair work here Malenko. 

I noticed that you have the same damaged edges as I do on my DK cab. (particle board) The edges on my DK look like a hamster chewed on them.

Do you feel confident that you can use bondo on those chewed up edges and have it hold up? Does the bondo adhere well on a corner of particle board?

[Malenko]

more primer pictures for some reason. Ended up doing 4 coats.






Then I focused on the corner bracing casters, or whatever the technical name is for them:


Sanded the crap out of them till all the rust was off:

I painted them, but the paint was not ready (and I didnt want to move them till it was) so I'll post pix of them soon

Here is the start of the black for the front:



and of course, black in back:

[Malenko]

Really great repair work here Malenko. 

I noticed that you have the same damaged edges as I do on my DK cab. (particle board) The edges on my DK look like a hamster chewed on them.

Do you feel confident that you can use bondo on those chewed up edges and have it hold up? Does the bondo adhere well on a corner of particle board?

you can put wood glue on it or wood hardener to give the bondo a little something extra to grip to. As for will it hold up? on this cab definitely because it doesnt touch the floor (the wooden base box does).
I didnt have any issues on my TMNT restore fixing "chewed up edges" but YMMV







BONUS PIC for PBJ of my rape dungeon!

[vwalbridge]

you can put wood glue on it or wood hardener to give the bondo a little something extra to grip to. As for will it hold up? on this cab definitely because it doesnt touch the floor (the wooden base box does).

Thanks for that tip! 

...and if I was driving down the street and saw that dungeon...I'd knock on the door and ask for a tour. 

[Jdurg]

Once again, I can't thank you enough for taking such fantastic, high resolution images of the cab as you go through the repair process.  I've gotten in touch with a member at the KLOV forums who is taking measurements for me so I can reproduce one of these cabs, and have also being scouring the internet for pictures and other information.  I'm getting really close to being able to cut out the panels and get my cab built.  i will also certainly provide measurements and specifics so that folks can also reproduce this 'common' cab that apparently isn't so "common".   

[Malenko]

Thanks for that tip! 

...and if I was driving down the street and saw that dungeon...I'd knock on the door and ask for a tour. 

I'd give you a tour, sans rape though, thats Jim's forte.

Once again, I can't thank you enough for taking such fantastic, high resolution images of the cab as you go through the repair process.  I've gotten in touch with a member at the KLOV forums who is taking measurements for me so I can reproduce one of these cabs, and have also being scouring the internet for pictures and other information.  I'm getting really close to being able to cut out the panels and get my cab built.  i will also certainly provide measurements and specifics so that folks can also reproduce this 'common' cab that apparently isn't so "common".   

I have been measuring everything as well, just havent had time to recheck them and edit a picture with the measurements    Hopefully his measurements and mine match up! Its kind of tough on this cab because theres no angled corners, everything is rounded.

[Jdurg]

Thanks for that tip! 

...and if I was driving down the street and saw that dungeon...I'd knock on the door and ask for a tour. 

I'd give you a tour, sans rape though, thats Jim's forte.

Once again, I can't thank you enough for taking such fantastic, high resolution images of the cab as you go through the repair process.  I've gotten in touch with a member at the KLOV forums who is taking measurements for me so I can reproduce one of these cabs, and have also being scouring the internet for pictures and other information.  I'm getting really close to being able to cut out the panels and get my cab built.  i will also certainly provide measurements and specifics so that folks can also reproduce this 'common' cab that apparently isn't so "common".   

I have been measuring everything as well, just havent had time to recheck them and edit a picture with the measurements    Hopefully his measurements and mine match up! Its kind of tough on this cab because theres no angled corners, everything is rounded.

True.  The other guy sent me some photos with a tape measure in the photo itself.  Using that, and taking into account the resolution of the image in photoshop, it allows me to determine the radius of the rounded corners.

As an example, we have the cut-out in the back where the power supply is connected.  Based upon the photos and my calculations, the cutout is comprised of a 2.5 inch diameter hole and a 3.75 inch diameter hole connected by straight cuts.  So hopefully those calculations are fairly accurate.  (The larger hole may just be 3.5" as the pictures had slight angles to them so it wasn't a direct comparison).

Regardless, i'm in no rush and am enjoying seeing all the photos.  I now know where the metal monitor brackets I bought go.  (They are attached to vertical supports on the left and right side, as well as a top support.  The brackets i have include threaded bolts which I believe are what the top frame of the monitor attaches to.  Just not yet sure where the bottom of the monitor bolts to.  So i'll be paying close attention as you re-assemble everything!)

[Cobolisdead]

As someone that is about to jump into a restore with a a lot of cabinet work, do you mind if I ask what type of bondo are you using?

[Malenko]

As someone that is about to jump into a restore with a a lot of cabinet work, do you mind if I ask what type of bondo are you using?

It says to give it a day to cure (24 hours) but I usually give it 2 or more days depending on temp/humidity. Treat it like joint compound/drywall mud , the less you put on the less you need to sand down.


DO NOT buy the all purpose bondo for vertical surfaces, its useless/terrible/waste of money

[Jdurg]

When i've worked on fight-sticks and other projects in the past, i've used a "fiberglass reinforced" Bondo that i found at AutoZone.  It's like normal Bondo, but has fiberglass in the "putty" and creates a SUPER strong joint.  The only problem is that you need to be careful when sanding it due to the fiberglass particles in there, and you need to make sure you don't get any on your hands otherwise you'll be itching for days.

[Malenko]

When i've worked on fight-sticks and other projects in the past, i've used a "fiberglass reinforced" Bondo that i found at AutoZone.  It's like normal Bondo, but has fiberglass in the "putty" and creates a SUPER strong joint.  The only problem is that you need to be careful when sanding it due to the fiberglass particles in there, and you need to make sure you don't get any on your hands otherwise you'll be itching for days.

I tried the fiberglass, it didnt seem significantly better than the regular stuff I used, so I just stuck with what I know works. When you work with the fiberglass stuff you need to make sure you have a better respirator than just a regular dust mask.

back to the restore......


Remember these guys?


BOOSH!  Lookin damn sexy in a nice flat black:


re-attached the base and started the second coat of black:


Also reattached the grab block to the top:


more paint pix *shrugs*



and more:

[jennifer]

    I find it interesting you only do one game at a time, Jenn has just over a dozen at any given time in various stages of completion, and waiting for hard to find parts ....You should really peel that tape off when the paint is still wet (and retape between dry coats) or it will bond to the cab, and rip the paint when you remove it, looks like a fun project though (Baby gets a little jelious )

[Malenko]

    I find it interesting you only do one game at a time, Jenn has just over a dozen at any given time in various stages of completion, and waiting for hard to find parts ....You should really peel that tape off when the paint is still wet (and retape between dry coats) or it will bond to the cab, and rip the paint when you remove it, looks like a fun project though (Baby gets a little jelious )

I can only do 1 game at a time or I lose focus and nothing ever gets finished, its my own personal flaw. As for the frog tape........ I usually just shoot the heat gun at it for a few seconds then peel, havent had any issues *yet* But next time I paint a cab and need it, I'll give your method a whirl 

You should post more pix of your projects, so I can get jealous of you.

[jennifer]

   Peel it back and away from your finished surface while the paint is still wet,  (as soon as your done painting) and before it starts to get stringy ({?), As it cures the paint will mellow the tape line and it wont be so harsh, and wont dry to your paint Win-Win.... As for Jenns fun projects few people care, and last time I tried it got "shamed" right off the internet. For having too much junk.

[Jdurg]

For having too much junk.

I've never heard of that being a problem.   

[Malenko]

   Peel it back and away from your finished surface while the paint is still wet,  (as soon as your done painting) and before it starts to get stringy ({?), As it cures the paint will mellow the tape line and it wont be so harsh, and wont dry to your paint Win-Win.... As for Jenns fun projects few people care, and last time I tried it got "shamed" right off the internet. For having too much junk.

I pulled the tape, other than my extremely crooked line it came off clean as a whistle. As for your projects, ---fudgesicle--- the haters, I care so you should post them up. I'd love to see what you've been working on. Lord knows this section could use more threads and machines getting fixed up.

I took more pix after I put the bracers/leg levellers back on and gave the front and top a 4th and final coat of black. I'll try to post them up tomorrow.

[Malenko]

For having too much junk.

I've never heard of that being a problem.   

Depends on the size of the trunk


So here are the leg leveling corner braces reinstalled:


And the cab is level


Some shots of the front with the 4th and final coat of paint on it, with the wood stopping blocks screwed back in




Some close ups of the blocks for jdurg:



and the lower monitor board reinstalled:

[Jdurg]

Ahhhhhh.  Okay.  So now i see how the monitor attaches to the cab.  Thank you so much!

 

[Malenko]

Ahhhhhh.  Okay.  So now i see how the monitor attaches to the cab.  Thank you so much!

 

Next the monitor goes in, mine was held onto the 2 piece of wood you see with 6 screws. Then the paper bezel went in, then the wooden square bezel, then the cardboard SF2 bezel. I have monitor issues, so its not ready to go back in yet but I'll try to take a bunch of pictures for you.

[Jdurg]

Ahhhhhh.  Okay.  So now i see how the monitor attaches to the cab.  Thank you so much!

 

Next the monitor goes in, mine was held onto the 2 piece of wood you see with 6 screws. Then the paper bezel went in, then the wooden square bezel, then the cardboard SF2 bezel. I have monitor issues, so its not ready to go back in yet but I'll try to take a bunch of pictures for you.

Thanks again Malenko!  I've got the upper brackets with the bolt piece, and the standard WG Frame attached to the tube itself.  A little while ago I also picked up the wooden board that the printed bezel sits on, as well as the printed bezel and tempered glass piece for the front.  So it sounds like the only thing missing would be the paper "shroud" that sits right on the tube and right behind the wooden board.  Been trying to get a hold of some black construction paper to make this, but can't find 26" wide board without having to pay for a 1000 foot roll that costs a fortune.  Unless i magically come across a proper one for sale, I think I'll just wait until I eventually get the cab built someday and make up my own once i see what angles, what depth, etc.   

[Malenko]

so you've seen a million primer pix, so Im going to skip showing all 4 coats this time and just show the final:


True story, I *ALMOST* patched the hole for the power switch.

One of the mid-coats of blue:


and final coat, this is a pretty good indicator of color. My garage is pretty dark so the blue doesnt show very well on my camera, its not as dark as it looks in some pix but its not bright either.


New hardware for the bolts at the bottom:

Bonus, you can see dust, and hand prints on the back and my extremely crooked paint line at the top.


and you can see the new PS installed^