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Crimper and pins?
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BadMouth:
I have a cheap $10 crimper.  Could just be me, but only half of my crimps turn out right.
The parts on the connector just don't bend inward the way they are supposed to unless I tweak them with needle nose pliers first.

I noticed the $35 crimper sold by Pololu has curved areas in the die that look like they would guide the bendy parts correctly.
Pretty sure my $10 crimper just has a flat wedge shape there.

Slippyblade:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on December 16, 2015, 03:10:35 pm ---What's the application?  Are we talking Arduino or a similar avr or are we talking arcade controls or a hybrid of both?

--- End quote ---

The answer is 'Yes'.  I'm playing around a lot with Arduino, AVRs, and custom harness for arcade controls.  Like I said, I've been scavenging and splicing from other stuff for a while now but am looking into doing my own.  It's a lot like how I started on this board.  Originally I was doing the same thing with QD connectors.  Once I got a decent crimper and learned how to do it, the look and quality improved.  I'm hoping the same thing happens with the .1" stuff. 

I use a lot of these as well, cutting and splicing into longer wires.
PL1:

--- Quote from: BadMouth on December 16, 2015, 04:08:50 pm ---I have a cheap $10 crimper.  Could just be me, but only half of my crimps turn out right.
The parts on the connector just don't bend inward the way they are supposed to unless I tweak them with needle nose pliers first.

I noticed the $35 crimper sold by Pololu has curved areas in the die that look like they would guide the bendy parts correctly.
Pretty sure my $10 crimper just has a flat wedge shape there.

--- End quote ---
The curved areas do make a big difference.   ;D



The main thing to consider is that the tool needs to work with the pin/socket being crimped.

Check out pimfg.com for ratchet crimp tools/dies.

--- Quote from: PL1 on October 29, 2013, 12:32:17 pm ---http://www.pimfg.com/ is a great source for affordable ratcheting crimpers.

The jaws on page 74 of the catalog PDF work with the HT-336 frame or the Harbor Freight crimpers that RandyT linked above.

The Harbor Freight crimpers are slightly lower quality than the HT-336 -- check the HF crimpers before you buy them to ensure they are working properly. (The first pair I checked weren't functioning/adjusted properly.)

These P/Ns are the ones I ended up getting.
HF Ratcheting Crimp Pliers for QDs
HT-336-FM Crimp Tool Frame (for D-subs)
HT-236-2C4-DIE (236 dies work in the 336 frame, check out the "data sheet" tab for detailed view)
HT-236-2U-DIE
HT-225D Crimp tool (for D-subs)

--- End quote ---

The HT-225D looks like an excellent choice.

Don't have any un-crimped .1" sockets, but just tried re-crimping a pre-fab .1" socket/wire like this from Paradise and it appears to be a great fit.   ;D




Scott
Howard_Casto:

--- Quote from: Slippyblade on December 16, 2015, 04:29:02 pm ---
--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on December 16, 2015, 03:10:35 pm ---What's the application?  Are we talking Arduino or a similar avr or are we talking arcade controls or a hybrid of both?

--- End quote ---

The answer is 'Yes'.  I'm playing around a lot with Arduino, AVRs, and custom harness for arcade controls.  Like I said, I've been scavenging and splicing from other stuff for a while now but am looking into doing my own.  It's a lot like how I started on this board.  Originally I was doing the same thing with QD connectors.  Once I got a decent crimper and learned how to do it, the look and quality improved.  I'm hoping the same thing happens with the .1" stuff. 

I use a lot of these as well, cutting and splicing into longer wires.

--- End quote ---

Well I bought a pack of 20, 5 pin for 5 dollars off ebay last year.  They were two feet long so all I really had to do was cut the end off and add arcade style connectors on the other end.  So yeah what I was getting at was the jumper wires are so cheap I would just buy those and modify the other end to suit your needs... you can get them extra long if you look hard enough. 
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