Donkey Kong Restoration

[vwalbridge]

I've always wanted a real DK cab and I've been looking on Craigslist for quite a while now. About a month ago one popped up so I snagged it. The dude selling it wanted to gut it and part it out on CL. Or turn it into a 60 in 1. I was like "hell no" you're not! So I had to save it and keep it intact. So I've been sitting on this cab for about a month now. It just stares at me every time I go into the garage. I've been on the fence for quite some time trying to decide if this "bag of hurt" is going to be worth it. But DK cabs don't show up that often in my area so I'm going to go for it. For me, the journey is the reward. And this is going to be a heck of a journey on this one. It seems like DK cabs are a "right of passage" now anyway!

Let's get some items out of the way right now:

1. This will be my first real arcade
2. This will be my first arcade restoration
3. I paid $450 for it.
4. I have no excuses to not do this right. There have been a thousand DK restores before me and there are plenty of resources for me to pull from

People I would already like to thank:

34k - Andrew gave me some pre-purchase advice and is also willing to help me down the road. Really nice guy and a great resource.
Wyo - He has helped me he just didn't know it until he reads this. His Zelda cab thread has been great.
Malenko - His advice about buying a used DK cab was priceless. He gave me some really good advice as to avoid buying a lemon.
DeLuSioNal29 - He also gave me some really valuable tips about bartering and talking the guy down. Really good advice about the specific nuances of a DK cab
ChanceKJ - His Ultimate DK project and his "So, You want to build a Classic Nintendo Cab?" sticky have been VERY helpful.
Yotsuya - His Janky Kong project has taught me that even the worst looking cab deserves a restore. I'm also pre-thanking Yots. I have no doubts he will contribute to this thread in his own way
John from John's arcade - His passion and enthusiasm about arcades is inspiring. Also, his YouTube channel is a wealth of knowledge
BYOAC - This forum is the best resource of all because it brings all of the above together.


Here is the punch list...at least from my extremely limited knowledge thus far:

THE GOOD:
-My wife encouraged me to get it
-It plays.... despite all the problems listed below.
-No to little monitor burn-in
-Serial tag intact (Doesn't seem to be any kind of popeye convert)
-It seems to be totally original as far as I can tell.
-No side art. So no torn artwork to remove!
-Marquee appears in good shape
-bezel is in decent shape
-coin door is in decent shape
-con mechs work and are in decent shape
-original power supply (this could be a bad thing?)
-still has coin box but missing the drawer
-main boards are surprisingly clean
-it has wheels
-all appropriate marquee retainers and brackets appear to be present
-It smells like dryer sheets
-no water damage or rat poop inside.

THE BAD:
-Control panel overlay is chipped and graphics are shot.
-t-molding is totally crap.
-random nails and screws holding the whole cab together. Little worried about "racking"
-side panels are particle board, all the rest is plywood. seems odd to me.
-the whole inside pretty much needs a deep cleaning
-Marquee back-light does not come on
-the square bottom base is rickety and needs to be rebuilt.
-Power cord is frayed around where it enters the cab
-There is some random black paint sprayed under the speaker
-It had a lock bar that has been removed and holes will need to be plugged

THE UGLY:
-Needs bondo everywhere. Literally everywhere. Corners are blown out and the entire top right edge is missing? WTF happened there? LOL
-Back edges look like a dinosaur chewed on them.
-Coin box drawer is missing
-Back door is missing. Some janky board in it's place.
-Sound does not work. I'm a little worried about this one.
-Monitor has the waving flag effect from left to right. Cap kit is best case here.
-Joystick is completely blown out. Doesn't return to center. It pretty much sags wherever gravity takes it.
-P1 and P2 buttons are sticky.  Gross.
-Jump button is so loose it might fall inside

I bought a real GEM didn't I?  No restore is any good with out plenty of pictures.

[yotsuya]

I'm glad Janky Kong inspired you. I'm still working on it, too, even though it hasn't make the DK Project Roll Call.

I wonder what's going on with the top of that cab on the right side. Looks like a crazy cut, like someone went crazy with a router. Still, it's got great bones to work with.

[Brian12]

Thats going to be a fun one to work on...good luck! Im sure 99% of these other guys can answer repair question better than me, but if you need any help I will try my best being mine is my first game restore(more of a clean up I guess) ever these past 2 weeks...read everything I could from the forums you posted also...still there were a few things that was not explained or not as easy as they made it out to be for a first timer...lol

-Brian

[Cobolisdead]

Well, you have your work ahead of you! Good luck on the restore!

[vwalbridge]

I'm glad Janky Kong inspired you. I'm still working on it, too, even though it hasn't make the DK Project Roll Call.

I wonder what's going on with the top of that cab on the right side. Looks like a crazy cut, like someone went crazy with a router. Still, it's got great bones to work with.

Yea, I have no idea what happened up there. Some bone head really made it hard for me to fix that. It makes me feel better that you think I have a good foundation to work with at least.

Thats going to be a fun one to work on...good luck! Im sure 99% of these other guys can answer repair question better than me, but if you need any help I will try my best being mine is my first game restore(more of a clean up I guess) ever these past 2 weeks...read everything I could from the forums you posted also...still there were a few things that was not explained or not as easy as they made it out to be for a first timer...lol

-Brian

Thanks! Watching your DK restore recently got the blood flowing.

Well, you have your work ahead of you! Good luck on the restore!

Thanks. I've been watching your DK Jr restore some good stuff there.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Good luck with it!  Can't wait to see what happens.  I myself need to start working on my Nintendo .vs restore.  It's the year of the Nintendo cabs... LOL.

D

[ChanceKJ]

<Insert generic comment about how i also think this is a cool thread and am willing to help here>

[ChanceKJ]

Restoration added to the Nintendo Cab Stickey!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144583.0.html

[vwalbridge]

<Insert generic comment about how i also think this is a cool thread and am willing to help here>

Thanks Chance! You've already been very helpful with your existing threads. Feel a lot better about going into this after seeing your work. 

Restoration added to the Nintendo Cab Stickey!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144583.0.html

I'd really better not screw this up now. 

[vwalbridge]

Ok, so I'm starting to lay out my budget for this restoration and I hoping you guys can help me out. In the screenshot below I have all the major items listed that I think this cab is going to need. I know that I'm missing some items but I'm not worried about the odds and ends. Just the major stuff.  I really want to know how much this thing cost me in the end so I will try to be diligent in documenting my running total on the first post. Please have a look at tell me if this makes sense. Specifically the highlighted rows and if you think the vendors are the right choice for their respective part.

[ChanceKJ]

Grab the T-Moulding from Mike's Arcade, or as a backup from T-Moulding.com or chompingquarters.com MAKE SURE YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED BY DOING YOUR HOMEWORK AND MEASURING THE CAB FIRST!

I rolled my own wiring harness so I'm not sure where you could get one other then making one yourself. Maybe KLOV you could find an old one?   Not sure.

Buy SimpleGreen IN BULK! trust me, i kick myself when i go to Walmart and they don't have it when I'm out.

[ChanceKJ]

Also, get yourself a set of these:
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=740FACEKIT
Mike was nice enough to offer these on his site when i requested them. It will go a LONG way in making the cab shine when your done.


The power cord will be some 14AWG 3 circuit you'll find on the bulk rack, which will need them to cut for you. 2-3 meters should do. Then find a plug you like.  I used 16/3 and found 16AWG was just too thick. but i made it work. 14 will fit with the stock nintendo cable stress relief you'll find attached to the little metal plate holding the plug in.

[vwalbridge]

Thanks Chance! Really appreciate all these tips. Valuable indeed.

Someone cut my DK harness in half and put it back together with wire nuts. It appears that even repo harnesses are hard to find. Some originals are going for over $100 on eBay.  I probably just roll my own when I get to that spot.

As for the t-molding, I need the offset style t-molding and chomping quarters stopped making it. It doesn't appear to be easy to find. I REALLY wish that I had the plywood version of DK. I'm literally considering filling the slot with bondo and re-cutting it down the center. Little worried that could be a bad idea though.

[ChanceKJ]

Have you asked on KLOV?

[ChanceKJ]

Oh. If your gonna roll your own send me a pm.

[Brian12]

I got my Tmolding from MikesArcade and it worked perfectly...also I had enough for the whole game with about 4 ft extra...$12

[ChanceKJ]

I got my Tmolding from MikesArcade and it worked perfectly...also I had enough for the whole game with about 4 ft extra...$12

Yes, but do you have a wooden sided cab? or a particle board sided cab?

His is Particle board, Nintendo used a wacky "offset" t-moulding for some of the american made particle board cabs.



You'll find some are offset and some aren't when it comes to particle board. It is a lot of work to fill in the slot and then recut down the centre... but if you can't get your hands on the moulding, might be worth it.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Chance. Thanks for the mech link.  My coin slots were painted over with black paint.

[vwalbridge]

Have you asked on KLOV?

I'm joining KLOV right meow. 

Oh. If your gonna roll your own send me a pm.

   I've seen your wire work. I don't know why you aren't selling your own harnesses already!   

[vwalbridge]

Chance. Thanks for the mech link.  My coin slots were painted over with black paint.

Mine have some black over spray on them as well. What the heck were people doing to these poor machines?

[ChanceKJ]

Chance. Thanks for the mech link.  My coin slots were painted over with black paint.

  no problem. Just make sure you have 740's.

[ChanceKJ]

Chance. Thanks for the mech link.  My coin slots were painted over with black paint.

Mine have some black over spray on them as well. What the heck were people doing to these poor machines?

I really have zero idea. Mine were vinyl wrapped. 

[vwalbridge]

Removed the black paper "curtain" I guess you call it. I anyone cares, it's held on by glue and 4 staples. Pried it off with a screw driver.




I'm saving both the back an front CRT paper so that I can duplicate them later. If anyone wants it, I can post the measurements.




I also noticed that my lower bezel mount might have been put on backwards. Isn't the "lip" supposed to be on the outside?


On mine, you can see it was on the back side.


Here is the jankey CRT discharge tool I made. I told my wife and kids I loved them before I used it.


This monitor is pretty dirty. Not nearly as dirty as some I've seen but still needs a bath.


Took it outside, and got it ready for a Simple Green spray down.


I was really surprised how well this stuff works. No scrubbing necessary. The dirt and grime practically falls off.


Once I was done hosing all the simple green licorice smell off, I used my air compressor with the regulator set to minimum to spray off excess pooled water.




I then propped it up next to a fan for a few hours. Then I let it completely air dry for 48 hours.


The bezel paper was glued down something fierce. I had to used goo gone and a razor to get it all off.




The process was easy thanks to all the videos on YouTube and it took about 1/2 a bottle of Simple Green.


As is tradition, here are some before and after shots. I was careful to preserve all the warning stickers.








After plugging the monitor back into the cab to test and make sure I didn't break anything during the wash...the cab now buzzes like a mo fo. Maybe I just bumped some pots? The cab never had any game sound before and buzzed a little but now it buzzes pretty loud. I still need a cap kit so I'm not getting to anxious just yet. However, I did then notice my ground plug missing on the power cord! 


I also got another nice surprise behind the marquee. No light fixture and the side of a box of smokes. Neat. This project is the build that keeps on givin'.

[yotsuya]

The bezel retainer is on backwards.

Do me.a favor, measure those cardboard pieces, will you?

[vwalbridge]

The bezel retainer is on backwards.

Do me.a favor, measure those cardboard pieces, will you?

Thanks yotsuya. Absolutely, I'll have the measurements up tonight.

[ChanceKJ]

First this:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-Slim-Line-14-in-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-10168/202024436
GE makes a shorter 8" version as well.

Second, the bezel:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=353072

The only problem I'm having is recreating the internal radius of the corners. I've got a mint (but dusty) horizontal cardboard bezel I pulled from my Mario Bros.  when I get some time I plan to make CAD patterns for both of these and the little mullet back peice.

[yotsuya]

First this:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-Slim-Line-14-in-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-10168/202024436
GE makes a shorter 8" version as well.

Second, the bezel:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=353072

The only problem I'm having is recreating the internal radius of the corners. I've got a mint (but dusty) horizontal cardboard bezel I pulled from my Mario Bros.  when I get some time I plan to make CAD patterns for both of these and the little mullet back peice.

Yes, that would be awesome.

[yotsuya]

Oh, and you Canadians know all about mullets, don't you. :-)

[EvilNuff]

The bezel retainer is on backwards.

Do me.a favor, measure those cardboard pieces, will you?

Do you mean the lower metal bracket under the bezel?  Mine had the "lip" pointed backwards as well.  That was what the bezel rested on.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[vwalbridge]

First this:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-Slim-Line-14-in-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-10168/202024436
GE makes a shorter 8" version as well.

Isn't this a 120v light? Don't I need to get the special 100v fixture, starter and bulb for a DK?

EDIT: Never mind, I used a website called "Google" to find out that a 120v florescent fixture will work in a 100v DK cab.

[vwalbridge]

Do me.a favor, measure those cardboard pieces, will you?

As requested...in jankey Sketchup form.

CRT Mullet (Little notch at the top is 3.0 cm wide...sorry hard to read) and the dotted line is where the 90 degree fold occurs)


CRT Bezel

[yotsuya]

You're my favorite Canadian!

[yotsuya]

After Opt2Not.

[yotsuya]

And before Rick.

[vwalbridge]

LOL! What about Chance?!

Inches below. 

[yotsuya]

LOL! What about Chance?!

Inches below. 

You're my favorite Coloradoian.

[DeLuSioNal29]

This needs to be added to the "So you want to build a Nintendo cab" sticky.

D

[ChanceKJ]

This needs to be added to the "So you want to build a Nintendo cab" sticky.

D

AS YOU WISH!

...POOF!

[johnrt]

So if you want a horizontal bezel you just turn the hole for the monitor 90 degrees I guess?