Cutting Perspex (Acrylic)

[steve-adams-nz]

I was told in the store that I could cut perspex with a jigsaw and these blades:

Bosch T101B HCS

http://www.powertoolshop.co.nz/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/1/products_id/364?osCsid=3cesq36rt964hhec5jqi4bkm36

But after reading around on the web I have my concerns they are not going to do the job.
At $55 (NZD) for a sheet I am keen to not waste this sheet if at all possible.

Anyone had any luck with anything similar.
Any advice on the best method for good results?

[big10p]

The teeth on those blades look like they're a bit big and could cause the perspex to crack. I just used a hacksaw blade which has much finer teeth. It's difficult to get a really straight cut, though. What are you making with the perspex?

Maybe those blades will work OK but I'd test on an old cutoff piece of perspex first.

[harveybirdman]

I've scored and snapped before, but do yourself a favor and spend the $ for polycarbonate instead if it is at all possible.

I've cracked every peice of Acrylic I've ever tried to drill, even being careful and using forstner bits.

[T3quila]

Bosch makes Plexiglass blades http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Clean-For-Plexiglas-3-Pack-T102BF/203451220 T102BF.
I have used them and they worked fine. No Chips and no cracks. Make sure the plexiglass is supported on both sides of the cut and only leave a small channel where the blade goes. Have people hold it down for you while sawing to reduce vibrations.

[vwalbridge]

Score and snap. Buy one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plaskolite-Cutting-Tool-for-Plastic-Sheets-1999999A/100542314

However, the only issue with scoring and snapping is that the edge will have a tiny ridge on it. But you can clean that up real quick with straight edge and a flush cut router bit. The thinner the perspex, the cleaner it will snap. I wouldn't score and snap anything over 1/4 of an inch.

I guarantee those jigsaw blades will leave you with and edge of perspex that looks like a dinosaur chewed on it.

[Peabo]

For what it's worth, I use an 80 tooth blade in my table saw.  Cuts like butter with an nice clean edge

[DaOld Man]

I use a router with a trim bit with a bearing on the end, using a straight edge to guide the bit. It cuts very clean and no cracks, however the width of the bit in the plastic is wasted.
The smallest router bit I have is 1/4", so after several cuts that adds up to a lot of waste.

[lamprey]

If you are doing curves, then I can't help. but, If you just need straight cuts, and have a table saw, use a blade with many teeth (finishing blade?) and it works like a champ.

[steve-adams-nz]

Thanks for all your advice.
I just need 2 straight cuts to give me a marquee and a screen cover.
I do also have a power saw and a router.

I didn't want to use the power saw as the blades seem to be over $100 NZD and I don't plan to make more than these 2 cuts (all going well).

In regards to the router can i just use the same flush trim bits I already have, no need for anything special?
I thought it might just crack or melt with a router as it will be a pretty as they are pretty aggressive?

Thanks for all the advice and feedback to date.

[DaOld Man]

I use the same trim bit that I use to trim laminate.
Of course if you have a piece of scrap plastic, it wouldn't hurt to make a couple of practice cuts to get the feel for it.
I sandwich the plastic between two pieces of MDF (or any wood will work as long as it is flat and has a good straight edge.) Use C-Clamps to clamp it.
I line up the bottom board with the mark I want to cut on the plastic, clamp it together, double check alignment, then cut the plastic by allowing the bearing on the bit to ride on the bottom straight edge of the wood.
I also cut switch holes out in the control panel plastic overlay this way.
I cut all the holes in the wood panel (usually 1-1/8" paddle bit), sandwich the plastic between the CP and a piece of flat scrap.
I then drill holes in the plastic big enough to let the router bit in, then uses my router bit with the bearing above the cutting part of the bit, I just cut out each hole. The result is a perfectly matched hole and the edges clean up real good with sandpaper or a fine file. Also a dull pocket knife will clean up the plastic edges real nice. Then before I unclamp, I run along the edge of the CP so the plastic matches the size and shape of the CP.
Helpful hint, sometimes after cutting a couple of button holes, I insert the buttons and tighten them down, this helps hold the plastic to the CP, but you have to make arrangements in the bottom wood for the buttons sticking through. I usually bore a couple of clearance holes bigger than the buttons, in the bottom wood.
Good luck, and please let us know how it turns out for you.

[NIVO]

sandwich the acrylic between 2 pieces of wood, make your cuts. I have never personally cracked any piece this way. Would recommend a router as well for the cleanest possible cut. No risk of melting if moving at a easy pace. And makes your cuts toward you(pulling the router toward you in a calm steady stroke.

[aldub516]

I used lexan for all of my projects, and my pedestal was WRAPPED in lexan like people wrap their machines in vinyl art. In my opinion, lexan is impossible to mess up. Ive cut it with table saws, jigsaws, dremels, routers, drill bits, and i dont think ive ever broke or shattered a single piece.. Spent hours researching methods of this illusive skill, and finally realized, you could almost try to mess up cutting lexan and wont be able to. Only issue is always the rough edge.. That requires a little patience to get real nice. But if you need this for marquee work and such, do your self a favor and go get a sheet of lexan, Super cheap, super durable, and will get the job done neatly.