MortalKab 4 player DIY slim arcade cabinet/ Finished / Update?

Main > Project Announcements

<< < (32/91) > >>

deezdrama:

--- Quote from: JDFan on August 29, 2015, 01:06:09 pm ---Get a chisel and hammer and it should make quick work of removing the amount of material you need to and should look decent !! Figure a 3 pc. set of chisels is less than $10 at Walmart !

--- End quote ---

Hmmmm.... never tried chisels on plywood.... might actually remove layers easier.

I have some... might try it on some scrap.... thanks for the idea!

deezdrama:
Got another 12 hours and 12 beers in today.... sure doesnt seem like i got much done :(

Got the coin door cut out ... man - if this coin door would of been 1/8" taller it wouldnt of fit.
Just barely squeezed it in between the bottom of the cab and middle shelf.

After that... glued/screwed/filled the front coin door panel in.

Then I test fit the 32" monitor and positioned my guide boards that will hold the tempered tinted glass.

The last major obstacle was fitting a 2" thick u-trak under a 1 1/2" cp.

I mocked up a 2" thick wooden block using ultramarks dimensions for the utrak and mounted it under the cp... I quickly realized I would have to move it up a bit if I ever planned on fitting the u-trak under the cp.
.
I moved the trackball hole up 1" and drilled a pilot hole, I then screwed the utrak mockup under the cp and outlined the utrak base on the bottom of the cp box with a pencil threw the button holes.

After I had the U-trak base outlined and knew where to remove material... It took about 3 hours of chiseling... then busted out the grinder,dremel,drill with sanding flapwheel. Took forever ...but I have clearance now for the trackball. Looks a little shoddy but I think will be decent once painted.

The last thing needed done was to hole saw the hole for the trackball. The dang arbor that I got is too small and will have to pick up a bigger one tomorrow so i can drill out the hole ... then I will FINALLY be ready for sanding...painting.

deezdrama:
Anyone know of blue or yellow coin reject buttons for wells gardner/ coin control buttons?

All I can find are red :(

If reds all thats available is there any methods anyone has found to paint them or use colored led's to change the color?

deezdrama:
Found yellow lime reject buttons!!! :applaud:
check out this thread if anyone is interested http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=147086.new;topicseen#new
(still wont know 100% that they will work untill they arrive)

Then ordered some yellow led's for the coin rejects....and some color changing led's to play with on them....

Got 5 locks in the mail, 2 for the coin doors , 1 for the keyboard/mouse door, and one to lock my control panel down (wont be able to stick hand up from below due to keyboard slide out tray)

Was at lowes today for a new door...
While there I decided to get some 2.5" castors to replace the 2"ers.

My arbor for the 83mm hole saw came in the mail today and got my cp trackball hole drilled out.

Then spent about 6 hours sanding the cab and parts to get ready for paint.
Swept up and took everything outside to blow off with the air compressor.

8 cans of painters touch semi-gloss got a single coat on almost everything.... ran out halfway on the last panel (rear panel) also... my CP isnt painted yet untill I decide on if im running non led sanwa jlf's or paradise arcade led joysticks (anyone know if the jlf and paradise led sticks have the same bolt mounting pattern?) :dunno

I sanded as much as I could.... after one coat of semi gloss rustolieum painters touch is looks very blotchy. :dunno

***************************
Please help..... :cry: :dunno

I have satin clear coat.... but should my second coat of black be semi gloss...or should I swap over to flat????

Should I fine sand between black coats or just wait and fine sand before clear coating?

How smooth does the sides need to be for vinyl art to stick well? I was going to just leave a single coat on sides since artwork will cover them but after the first coat it still feels a little rough.

ChanceKJ:
Base coat, sand, base coat, sand, main coat, sand, main coat, sand, main coat, varnish, varnish

That's my process, did it with rattle cans. Used grey base coat, matte black for the main coat, and a satin varnish for the finish. Sanding started as a heavy grit at first and getting finer each step after, going slow after the paint cured and using tack cloths to wipe the sanding dust after. Didn't sand the last coat, added two even coats of varnish at the end. All told a couple dozen cans, (32 I think... Don't remember but it's in my thread). All said and done, I estimated my paint job coat well over $400CDN in supplies, plus time, not sure if that counts my paint booth. I wanted the best finish I could. It was my first attempt at doing this, like ever, but I took the time and money to research and do it to my standards.

You could go cheap and roll on. I'm very happy with my finish. Wouldn't change a thing.

Your art will stick better the more glossy it is, but you shouldn't have issues of you just get a decently smooth and clean surface.

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version