Author Topic: DK JR restoration! (Read 16375 times)

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 19, 2015, 01:50:34 pm »

For the monitor issue:
Check the adjustment controls on the actual PCB. It has the same pots on the PCB, VR1 and VR2, check page 6.. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf

If that doesn't help then I would go with the re-capping option.

D

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #41 on:** August 19, 2015, 05:52:33 pm »

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on August 19, 2015, 01:30:28 pm

I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?

Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.

DeLuSioNaL29

I just got he artwork off of eBay. I had some cash I had to spend on there. Here is the listing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201370476574?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

yotsuya · « **Reply #42 on:** August 19, 2015, 08:52:51 pm »

You get what you pay for when it comes to side art.

And DeL, don't send any $$$ until you are sure that he's shipping. RiddickRick is going through some personal stuff right now and isn't on top of things (poor guy).

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 19, 2015, 09:56:57 pm »

I already contacted him. He said that he is behind on custom stuff but the stuff in the store is already done and easy to print.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #44 on:** August 20, 2015, 09:17:51 am »

Apparently, the art that I got was based off of a scan that a guy from here, Zorg I think was his name, scanned in sometime before 2008. Anyone know the best way to get the adhesive residue off of the side of the machine?

Malenko · « **Reply #45 on:** August 20, 2015, 09:44:46 am »

goo-gone , goof off, etc whatever is your preferred brand of petroleum distillates

SlammedNiss · « **Reply #46 on:** August 20, 2015, 11:34:22 am »

Quote from: Malenko on August 20, 2015, 09:44:46 am

goo-gone , goof off, etc whatever is your preferred brand of petroleum distillates

yea, any adhesive remover should work. It's pretty difficult to damage the formica surface.

If you still need appropriate sideart, lemme know. I can print them off based off the measurements of my original DK Jr. cab.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #47 on:** August 20, 2015, 12:51:17 pm »

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on August 19, 2015, 01:30:28 pm

I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?

Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.

DeLuSioNaL29

I wouldn't even bother. I've been trying to get ahold of Rick from ArcadeSkin.com for almost 2 months now. I'm starting to get fed up so I'm gonna see if anyone else can replicate his reverse print effect. I understand the personal stuff, but he's showing some signs of being still in business but stopped replying to my emails, PM's and facebook messages. Really frustrated. $:-\$

yotsuya · « **Reply #48 on:** August 20, 2015, 01:16:41 pm »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on August 20, 2015, 12:51:17 pm

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on August 19, 2015, 01:30:28 pm
I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?

Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.

DeLuSioNaL29

I wouldn't even bother. I've been trying to get ahold of Rick from ArcadeSkin.com for almost 2 months now. I'm starting to get fed up so I'm gonna see if anyone else can replicate his reverse print effect. I understand the personal stuff, but he's showing some signs of being still in business but stopped replying to my emails, PM's and facebook messages. Really frustrated. $:-\$

Yeah, my warning to DeL was based on your experiences thus far.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #49 on:** August 20, 2015, 02:58:49 pm »

Jason (Del) just told me he's replying on Facebook. (well at least not to me because i've tried) #Frustrating.

yotsuya · « **Reply #50 on:** August 20, 2015, 04:14:59 pm »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on August 20, 2015, 02:58:49 pm

Jason (Del) just told me he's replying on Facebook. (well at least not to me because i've tried) #Frustrating.

Well, you're Canadian, he's Puerto Rican. That's probably why.

yotsuya · « **Reply #51 on:** August 20, 2015, 04:19:03 pm »

But seriously, DeL mentioned that the hangup might be the fact you want custom work and he wants something already printed.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #52 on:** August 21, 2015, 05:34:19 am »

I got ahold of Rick.

Ball's rolling. He's swamped, but he's catching up.

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 21, 2015, 05:22:45 pm »

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on August 19, 2015, 01:50:34 pm

For the monitor issue:
Check the adjustment controls on the actual PCB. It has the same pots on the PCB, VR1 and VR2, check page 6.. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf

If that doesn't help then I would go with the re-capping option.

D

Did you give the monitor adjustments a go?

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #54 on:** September 03, 2015, 11:16:16 am »

I tired some goo gone on the cabinet side to try to get the residual adhesive off of the sides, bu sadly it didn't work. I guess I need to get the right sideart for it.

Brian12 · « **Reply #55 on:** September 03, 2015, 01:13:01 pm »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on September 03, 2015, 11:16:16 am

I tired some goo gone on the cabinet side to try to get the residual adhesive off of the sides, bu sadly it didn't work. I guess I need to get the right sideart for it.

I just went threw this with my DK...if you have the old side art off and just the nasty sticky adhesive, I figured out how to get it off in about 3 min...squirt on goo-gone all over the adhesive and rub it in with your hand (its def messy) let it soak for a few seconds...have a small pack of razor blades on hand...holding each side of it....make full scraps across the adhesive...it will come straight off (getting the angle correct is the hardest part) but it does not scratch the laminate on the side..that stuff is rock solid...also Game on Grafix DK side art is 1 1/2 inch smaller than the original art..the guy finally emailed me back saying no one has ever said anything before (10 years of printing same size) I told him my only reason that may be is because 90% of people have to repaint the cab which wouldnt matter...in my case the cab is fine but you can see the difference in color of the cab from over the years where under the sticker the color was preserved. he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')...if you need me to explain further I can make a video of how I got it off...it was 1000% easier than what I was doing before

SlammedNiss · « **Reply #56 on:** September 04, 2015, 04:02:04 am »

Quote from: Brian12 on September 03, 2015, 01:13:01 pm

he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')

If you need any assistance with measurements of original artwork, I can post a pic of my original DKJr. artwork.

Brian12 · « **Reply #57 on:** September 04, 2015, 10:15:59 am »

Quote from: SlammedNiss on September 04, 2015, 04:02:04 am

Quote from: Brian12 on September 03, 2015, 01:13:01 pm
he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')

If you need any assistance with measurements of original artwork, I can post a pic of my original DKJr. artwork.

Mine is a DK...I think the original was 21 15/16 x 28 1/16 or something close to that...i have it written somewhere...GameOnGrafix guy has not emailed me back since, im going to assume he isnt going to fix it...sucks I dont want to go threw the hassle and sent it back wait for a refund, then another 2 weeks for other art to get sent to me...im just going to paint the sides and put the artwork on...But I do have a DK Jr waiting on me to pick it up, I just gotta get this DK done and gone to make space

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #58 on:** September 04, 2015, 08:36:48 pm »

Sorry about that man, i feel kinda at fault for that. i figured they were on point.

Brian12 · « **Reply #59 on:** September 05, 2015, 01:52:34 am »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on September 04, 2015, 08:36:48 pm

Sorry about that man, i feel kinda at fault for that. i figured they were on point.

no prob bro...things happen...it is what it is..dont feel bad...

happens...it is what it is...im not worried about it

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #60 on:** October 26, 2015, 02:24:46 pm »

I finally got myself a discharge tool from Bob Roberts. I paid a little bit extra money to have it come assembled. I don't know when I will be able to get back to this project though, as the Wife is due any day now.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #61 on:** October 26, 2015, 11:56:26 pm »

yotsuya · « **Reply #62 on:** October 27, 2015, 02:17:31 am »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on October 26, 2015, 11:56:26 pm

Pffft, Rookie.

Be a man next time and build one.

I bought one of Bob's. Quality counts for a lot.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #63 on:** October 27, 2015, 02:45:02 am »

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #64 on:** October 27, 2015, 11:08:18 am »

Nice tool!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #65 on:** December 09, 2015, 08:46:30 am »

Ok, new baby has arrived and has taken up all of my free time to work on this, so that is why there have been no updates. However, I was thinking about putting in a switcher in this and making it into a multi-Kong by putting a Donkey Kong PCB in it. Anyone here have any experience doing that?

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #66 on:** January 04, 2016, 10:35:34 am »

So I scrapped the Multi-Kong idea, and I got back on track with this restore.

Last night I finally got the monitor out to do a capkit on the monitor. The discharging tool didn't even make a pop when I tried to discharge the monitor. It must have been powered down for long enough to lose the charge. The most difficult part was trying the get the bezel off without knowing how to swing it up off the bottom. Fortunately, I found the manual in the bottom of the cab, and it told me how to remove the glass. I will try to do the soldering tonight and get it back together again. Hopefully this will fix the vertical collapse issue and and I can finish the side art and be done with this project!

By the way, check out that awesome burn in!

johnrt · « **Reply #67 on:** January 05, 2016, 02:23:23 am »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on January 04, 2016, 10:35:34 am

Last night I finally got the monitor out to do a capkit on the monitor. The discharging tool didn't even make a pop when I tried to discharge the monitor. It must have been powered down for long enough to lose the charge.

Usually the tube is pretty much discharged after being switched off for about 15 minutes.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #68 on:** January 05, 2016, 11:23:14 am »

Well, you hear all the horror stories about how dangerous it is to do, and since this was my first one, I was awfully nervous.

No work last night as the baby kept me busy all night last night, and tonight is my anniversary, so I am hoping to get to work on it this Wednesday.

johnrt · « **Reply #69 on:** January 05, 2016, 11:25:54 am »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on January 05, 2016, 11:23:14 am

Well, you hear all the horror stories about how dangerous it is to do, and since this was my first one, I was awfully nervous.

Better safe than sorry. After 15 minutes it's pretty safe, but discharge it anyway.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #70 on:** January 08, 2016, 02:44:50 pm »

No pics right now, but I used some of this on the bezel last night and it really helped.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

The scratches are still there, but they are much less noticeable now.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #71 on:** January 10, 2016, 03:57:30 pm »

So I got a cap kit from twistedquarter.com for this monitor, but the list they sent me is off. I am comparing it to johns arcade's Sanyo recap video he did a few months ago, and the values for which cap going where on the sheet he sent me don't match up. C201 for example should be a 10uF 50V but the sheet says 100uF 16V. Can anyone please find me the correct listing? I really need to get this monitor capped today!

vwalbridge · « **Reply #72 on:** January 10, 2016, 04:26:42 pm »

I literally just capped the sanyo 20EZ on my DK. I used Ian Kellogg's Kit

His kits come with each cap labeled very clearly and with included directions:

Ian's kits come highly recommended and I trust what he gave me. After all, my CRT looks fantastic after using his kit.

Also, the uF rating of the cap you remove needs to match the cap you are putting in. Just like John's video says, the voltage can be higher (not ever lower) but the uF must match.

Can you tell if your monitor has been capped before? Mine was and some of the caps ratings we way off.

In the end, your caps should match what the above image states. Let us know what you come up with.

iankellogg · « **Reply #73 on:** January 10, 2016, 04:35:39 pm »

The original schematic for the sanyo called for a 100uF 16V cap. The later revisions of the schematic have 10uF 50V there. I don't believe it will be harmful either way so if you already have a cap kit, use it if you want.

Just for your own sanity. check the cap that is on your sanyo. I ran around my basement looking for all the sanyos I haven't capped yet to verify and they all had 10uF 50V. So I am going to keep packing the 10uF 50V in mine.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #74 on:** January 10, 2016, 04:53:48 pm »

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #75 on:** January 10, 2016, 05:16:39 pm »

Thanks for the replies! I bought this capkit six months ago and it has been on the shelves since then, as I have been busy and am just now getting to it. Ian, I have heard nothing but praise about your kits, and I really wished that I had ordered one from you instead.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #76 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:36:08 am »

Well, I got the Capkit installed. I did find one that was leaking, so hopefully this will fix the problem. There were a few tricky spots where the connections are very close to another one, and I had to use a flat head screwdriver to keep them separate. I am very much a noob at this, as this is my first capkit and my second time using a soldering iron. I am going to try to assemble the monitor and get it reinstalled tonight. Hopefully the thing won't explode! lol,

vwalbridge · « **Reply #77 on:** January 11, 2016, 10:26:31 am »

Right on man.

Just a heads up...Don't freak out when you first fire it up and it looks like crap. Mine looked pretty terrible but after about an hour of fiddling around with ALL the adjustment pots, I got it looking shaweet.

Some of the pots (ie the ones on the flyback) are incredibly sensitive. There is like a mm difference between GOOD and BAD.

Let us know if you need help with the pots.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #78 on:** January 11, 2016, 02:07:58 pm »

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #79 on:** January 12, 2016, 11:15:48 am »

Sadly, no updates right now. Last night's Alabama vs Clemson national championship game kind of took up my entire night. Man, what a game though!

Tonight I will get that monitor reassembled and back into the cabinet. I am hopeful that my capkit job did the trick and there will be no vertical collapse.

A side note. the shield to block the light from the monitor came apart when I removed it to get the monitor out. Any reason why I can't replace that with black poster board?


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Author Topic: DK JR restoration! (Read 16375 times)

johnrt

johnrt