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Author Topic: VS stick. Completed... two years later.  (Read 2404 times)

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Locke141

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VS stick. Completed... two years later.
« on: March 25, 2015, 12:41:03 pm »
Completed


Original first post below.

Time to start a build thread for my new fight stick. This one will be a gift to a close friend.

You can read about the art HERE

It's not put together yet, just stacked up to see how it looks.

I'm in a rush out the door. Well update with more info.
 
Cleaned up the art a bit more before cutting and I think it looks great. The only issue I have is I made the front and back pieces 3mm short on the length. I have some extra 6mm perspex so not a bid deal. I'll post the CAD file after I make some small fixes. Posted the .Ai file in the 9th post from the top.

Most of this bad boy will be joined together with solvents. I'm still working out how the bottom panel will open as simple and cleanly as possible.

The internals for this one will be:
  • My first KADE.
  • A ZIPPY for now (it's all I have) but it will be replaces with Samwa when I get back to the states
  • Samwa or GGG Electric ICE 2 illuminated bottons

 
« Last Edit: June 20, 2017, 10:38:20 pm by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2015, 10:45:04 am »
Ran into a problem with the Sanwa buttons I wanted to use. The 6mm is to thick. :banghead:

What is needed.
  • The panel is cut with 30 mm holes and am now looking for some screw in options.
  • It is transparent so I need what ever option to look clean when installed.
  • LED buttons would be a plus as it would add edged lighting.

I want to use a real Sanwa joystick and KADE, but was thinking some buttons like the ones in this kit might work. I messaged the seller to see if he sells just the buttons, if not does any one know where I could find something similar?
 
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 11:28:08 am by Locke141 »

yotsuya

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2015, 11:10:51 am »
Ran into a problem with the Sanwa buttons I wanted to use. The 6mm is to thick. :banghead:

What is needed.
  • The panel is cut with 30 mm holes and am now looking for some screw in options.
  • It is transparent so I need what ever option to look clean when installed.
  • LED buttons would be a plus as it would add edged lighting.

I want to use a real Sanwa joystick and KADE, but was thinking some buttons like the ones in this kit might work. I messaged the seller to see if I he would sell me just the buttons, but if not does any one know where I could find something similar?

Those look like Ultimarc GoldLeafs.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2015, 11:13:31 am »
I was also thinking of using acrylic blocks like the one below to support the joy stick.



We have a ton of it at work and I can etch something cool with the laser. Was thinking of using a VS graphic.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2015, 10:29:14 am by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2015, 11:21:19 am »
Those look like Ultimarc GoldLeafs.

Thanks Man.

I may use them as I prefer ordering from venders I know and I've liked my experiences with Ultimarc and Andy.
However I was hoping to find an illuminated option to add edge lighting. If I go with the GoldLeafs I won't be able to pick them up till the summer any way so I'll have time to decide.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2015, 03:02:05 am by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2015, 02:54:38 am »
So the E-bay seller got back to me and they do sell just the buttons, but it was only about $10 less then the kit, comes with 2 less buttons, no wiring harness, and the descriptions says it comes with 12v LEDs where the kit's says it comes with 5V LEDs. I would imagine they all just use the same LED's but I don't want to take the chance. That coupled with the inclusion of a nock off Sanwa joy stick and an encoder made the bundle more appealing so I just ordered that instead.

If the sanwa nock off is close enough to the real thing I may use it instead of spending another $30 on the real deal. This is a gift and my friend can always upgrade if he likes. I really want the flexibility of the KADE so the included encoder will probably not make it into this build.

Now in the very likely event I do use the KADE should I get a black or nickel plated neutrik USB port? I can't decide which one would look better in this build.


http://www.focusattack.com/neutrik-nausb-wb-ab-usb-feed-through-black/


http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NAUSB-W-B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252bykxlHbbYuR%252bstsmPHmVkZjMM%3d
« Last Edit: March 29, 2015, 03:10:38 am by Locke141 »

bfauska

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2015, 01:28:44 am »
Now in the very likely event I do use the KADE should I get a black or nickel plated neutrik USB port? I can't decide which one would look better in this build.
That's a tough one. I think maybe the metal so that something looks good with the metal plate of the joystick. Otherwise there will be a bunch of plastic and just the one silver colored part inside the box.

RetroGreg

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2015, 02:01:21 am »
Please let us know how the buttons work out. I was thinking of using those on a project as well. Can't wait to see the finished product  :cheers:

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2015, 02:50:24 pm »
bfauska, thats a good point. I'm leaning tortes that now.

RetroGreg, I book marked someones post about a two player set from that vender. Maybe you? I'll let you know but it won't be till this summer. I'm in Tanzania and won't get my hands on them till then. I'll finish the build with some parts I have here till I get home to swap them out.

I made some small errors in the original plans and have to go back and cut some parts again. The fixed file is now attached below. I've also added 28 mm button cutouts inside the 30 mm ones and 24 mm ones for the back facing holes. If any one has access to a laser CNC and want to try this, then you'll need to remove the holes with the diameter your not using. IE if your using 30 mm buttons then you'll want to remove the 28 mm holes on the in side. Also, The plans are for 6mm perspex. If you use 3mm sheets you'll need to add 3mm to all 4 side of the bottom piece and 6 mm to the length of both the two sides peaces.     

To get the look I got depends on your laser and software. I was using a 60 watt laser at 98% power at a speed of 4 to cut the 6 mm perspex and did two passes. For the fireball I set the laser software to engrave and don't recall the settings I used. For Ken I set the laser to cut (if you set it to engrave it will fill in instead of outlining him) the power was set at 15% with a speed 15.

Edit: the V8 is my attempt to fit in my 30mm sanwa's locking bits in. The idea is to have the laser cut through the first 3mm of whats in orange. Just using this page so I don't have to hunt for it.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2015, 10:30:59 am by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2015, 03:29:32 pm »
Got around to putting the box together using solvents. The bottom screwed in place so I can continue to open he box back up. I fitted my Switch Craft port for test fitting in place of the neutrik USB port because I don't have the neutrik port yet. In short may have a problem fitting the neutrik.

I also cut an built a stand for the joy stick using clear acrylic blocks. I may add graphics to the front of the acrylic stand, thinking "VS".

« Last Edit: April 10, 2015, 08:44:01 am by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2015, 04:09:07 pm »
Did some fitting, gutting, and engraving to the base today. Came out pretty well.


Here you can see the "VS" on the base of the joystick.


Here I had to cut a hole in the base to allow one of the front buttons to fit.


A second angle of the above hole. The base has tape on the sides to help me do the fitting.


And one from further back.

The next step is to a line the joystick base and fuse it in place to the bottom panel. After that this build will be near the stage where I'll have to stop. At least until I'm back in the US this summer and can add the proper joystick and buttons I ordered to my parents house for this build. For now I'm using what I have from my other projects for the fitting.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2015, 10:36:31 am by Locke141 »

BorgDog

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #11 on: April 15, 2015, 10:39:42 am »
Did some fitting, gutting, and engraving to the base today. Came out pretty well.


Here you can see the "VS" on the base of the joystick.


This looks really awesome, seriously jealous of the equipment you have access to.   :applaud:

I do have to point out though that having those holes in the top of those blocks different depths would drive me nuts since you can so clearly see them.
My Projects:
MisSpent Youth a Vigolix bartop,  Little Bastard a rotating tablet/display bartop,
Pin-Dog a mini pin-cab on vpforums.org  Star Wars a wedgehead pincab on vpinball.com

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #12 on: April 15, 2015, 11:45:16 am »
I do have to point out though that having those holes in the top of those blocks different depths would drive me nuts since you can so clearly see them.

I am planing to fix that.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2015, 03:10:35 pm by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2015, 04:59:11 am »
The joystick, buttons, and encoder set has arrived to my parents house in NY. The buttons are shorter the the happ's I'm using for my test fitting. I think the neutrik port will fit after all.

As for the joystick I'm thinking I'll drop the money on a real JLF if for no other reason than I want the visible insides to be clean and the Sanwas have that clean single connection. :dunno Will see how it goes.   

You can see the green terminal blokes that I'll use for the KADE in the photo as well.

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #14 on: June 29, 2015, 04:37:40 pm »
I do have to point out though that having those holes in the top of those blocks different depths would drive me nuts since you can so clearly see them.

I have planes to fix that.

Fixed.

This took a lot of work to get right.

First I had to cut a new block to replace the one with the un-even holes.

Before


After

Note: I did not think to take a pick right after I cut the block. The one on your right was the one used just before the engraving. The other one gives you the idea of how ruff it was just after the first cut.

Wasn't 100% happy with the way the original came out, so I added a step after the belt sander.  Wet sanding.

This took over an hour with 600 grit sand paper to get right.

Then I flame polished.

Before


After


Then dried even holes.


Laser etched and finisher.

New left, Right old


Wednesday I'll preeminently install the base with solvents. At that point I'll have nothing left to do until I get back to the US in August. 
« Last Edit: July 02, 2015, 03:15:06 pm by Locke141 »

BorgDog

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2015, 06:02:57 pm »
Awesome!  now I can sleep peacefully at night  :cheers:
My Projects:
MisSpent Youth a Vigolix bartop,  Little Bastard a rotating tablet/display bartop,
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Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #16 on: July 01, 2015, 10:34:12 am »
So I was working out how to line up the base and came up with m much better base. So pleas for get my last post and the 2 plus Hr I spent on it base v2.

I found a peace of scrap from left over from the cutting of the box and decided the base would be easer to mount as one pice. So I had the laser cut out a long pice and put it in the perspex bender.




Not bad.




Then I had the laser cut a square out of the back to accommodate the tight fit with one of the buttons.


Could not have been much tighter.


And here is the base installed with solvents and all the hard ware that I have on hand in place.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2015, 02:57:17 pm by Locke141 »

Locke141

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Re: VS stick.
« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2017, 09:41:07 pm »
Two years later and I finally got around to finishing. What was supposed to be a quick and simple build got put on hold when I damaged the original joystick encoder and got shelved at my parents house in the States. This year, I ordered a new encoder in preparation for our trip home, it came together in short order.

Here it is Ken with in a dark room












Over all I think it came out alright. I would do different if I was doing it today. Mostly I wish I had built a wood box and just had the CP in perspex.

I may open it back up one more time to clean up the wiring a bit more.

Please let me know what you all think.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2017, 12:21:45 am by Locke141 »

Richie_jones

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Re: VS stick. Completed... two years later.
« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2017, 02:40:33 pm »
Awesome work with the perspex, I know what a pita it can be...
Great job

  
 

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