| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Gorf Restoration |
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| jennifer:
"Nice job cadet".... Giggle, Jennifer tried to do the robot computer voice ::), My Gorf, (a cocktail) had a dead rat in the bottom of it, well the bones anyway, apparently they turn to a stinky liquid goo at some point. |
| Scottacus:
Dead rat?! Let me check on that.. Yep that trumps dried up leaves on the grossness scale! |
| Scottacus:
Next up was repairing the metal joystick panel. Most right handed players rest their left hands over the instructions and most Gorf games that I've seen have these instructions damaged to one degree or another. Spydron found a source for a replacement in his Gorf restoration but that option has since dried up. I made another post on this site under artwork where I detail the process of using a product called Decal Pro to make replacement full color artwork using a color laser printer and the Decal Pro system. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143990.msg1495692.html#msg1495692 Here is what the repaired joystick panel looked like after I was done repairing it. |
| Scottacus:
The lens for the joystick was dented pretty badly so I needed to repair that also. Once again I could find no after market solution so I made one myself. I wanted to put that technique in its own post so that folks could see that on the artwork section of this forum, the details are at http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144009.0.html Here is the before and after |
| Scottacus:
I removed the coin door and repainted it with Rustoleum hammer finish black and cleaned up all of the internal components. The 25 cent plastic pieces were pretty scratched up so I used rubbing compound followed by polishing compound and then Miracle X to restore them. I also installed coin mechs so now the door will coin up with quarters. New matching keyed locks were also added to all of the doors. The T molding was removed and I used a heat gun to remove the old artwork. The glue left behind came off if Goo gone which is a product that my daughter told me about. I've used just about every solvent to remove old glue over the years and this stuff is amazing. I went over the entire cab and filled all of the gouges and dings using a water based filler. I then primed the entire cabinet prior to repainting it. I took the back door into Hallman Lindsay and they color matched the blue in a acrylic enamel and I copied Spydron's grey for the bottom of the cabinet. I tried thinning the primer down with water and spraying it with my old high pressure jamb gun that I use for spraying lacquer and the results were a white cab and an entire room covered in white overspray! I tell you it took a day to clean that all up... I then went out an bought a HVLP sprayer and that was THE WAY to go. I experimented with dilutions and found that 1:1 to 1:1.25 water to paint worked the best with this gun. The blue is a great match and after several coats the machine looked great. I also masked off the internal window artwork and repainted the black on the inside of the cab around the screen with spray enamel. Next I took a page out of Spydron's restoration and used a old tooth brush to make the white star splatter pattern on the cabinet using the left over primer. It worked absolutely perfectly and the cab now looks like it just rolled off the production line. The plastic cover for the monitor yolk was fractured in one corner so I fiberglassed this from the inside and repainted the cover black. It turned out really nice. I made aluminum covers for the bottom corners of the cab to hide the areas where the cab was just too rotten to repair with filler and also added an aluminum base to the back bottom of the cab. The old leg levelers were removed and new ones from Bob Roberts were installed through the bottom of the cab. New black leather T molding was installed and new artwork was applied to the sides. |
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