Software Support > GroovyMAME
I have GroovyMAME running on an Arcade Legends 3 Machine, do I need a J-PAC?
sylar:
Krick -- I know none of this is going to be plug and play. I was hoping for a more straightforward approach since the guts of the AL3 appeared to be a standard PC. The custom JAMMA card they used seems unnecessary.
I know very, very little about wiring. I understand the concepts though. I do have the ProjectArcade book, so that's a start.
I noticed in the J-PAC link you sent that to get an insert coin have to press the 1 player button along with button1 player 1. So that's awesome. The AL3 games were on free play and thus there was no insert coin button.
The AL3 does have a button behind the insert coin door that was intended to get into diagnostics and allow the user to correct overscan and set the volume.
I've attached a pic of the connector for the trackball and the extra P1 wires. Since I am so new, I have no idea what to even google search for as far as connecting this guys to the J-PAC. Same with the speaker 9 pin thing. Got any advice?
I've also attached a pic of the Hanaho JAMMA board. Pity there seem to be no public drivers for this thing, as then this would have been very close to plug and play. At least I get to learn a few things! Thanks for teaching.
Malenko:
wanna get rid of the AL stuffs?
krick:
--- Quote from: sylar on February 05, 2015, 12:22:31 pm ---I've attached a pic of the connector for the trackball and the extra P1 wires. Since I am so new, I have no idea what to even google search for as far as connecting this guys to the J-PAC. Same with the speaker 9 pin thing. Got any advice?
--- End quote ---
The trackball cannot connect to the J-PAC. The JAMMA standard only includes joysticks and buttons.
From what I see, I think the trackball is probably a standard (non USB) trackball. If that is the case, then you can use a standard optical encoder interface to connect it to your PC...
Opti-Wiz (you want the no-solder version)
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=260
Opti-PAC...
http://www.ultimarc.com/optipac1.html
You have to do some detective work to figure out which wires go where.
Here's the part of the Arcade Legends 3 wiring schematic that shows the trackball connector...
According to the schematic, it's a 12-pin connector with .100 spacing (.100 inch spacing = 2.54mm spacing). So what you're looking for is something like the 6-pin male connector on this cable. I think they call them "dupont connectors". Basically, as long as the pin spacing is the same, it should work...
..but your trackball connector is a 12-pin female.
Rather than trying to track down a 12 position connector, the male crimp pins, some wire, and a crimping tool, I'd probably try getting something like this off ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391026510847
I think you can "tear" it into strips of however many wires you need. You can stick the male ends into the connector on your wiring harness and the other end can either stick on the pins of the Opti-Wiz or you can cut off the female connectors and use the bare wires for the Opti-PAC.
For the extra buttons (5 and 6) for each player, you can do basically the same thing.
Here's the connector from your schematic...
It has the same kind of connector, again with the .100 inch spacing. So you can use the same type of solution as the trackball, except you don't need an extra encoder board. The J-PAC has screw connectors for buttons 5 and 6. So just take some of the jumper wires and plug the pin ends into the harness connector for the buttons, cut off the female ends, strip a little bit of the insulation back and connect the wires to the correct screw terminals on the J-PAC.
Lastly, here's the speaker connector on your schematic...
According to the schematic, it's a .165 inch pitch (4.14mm pitch) "AMP" connector with a 9-pin 3x3 configuration. I don't see it anywhere in your pictures, so I'm not sure if the speaker side is male or female.
Here's someone selling the connector housings on Ebay, but they don't include the crimp-pins (one side uses male pins, the other female pins)..
http://ebay.com/itm/111436267445
If you got these housings, you'd have to find 4.14mm AMP crimp pins of the correct gender, and a tool to crimp them.
sylar:
Again, Krick, you're fantastic and I appreciate all of your help.
The speaker 9-pin thing, I found it and it's in the back of the unit, that's why you can't see it in pictures. And it's connected right now, so I don't know whether I need a male or female. I'll find that out.
One thing I do know is that sound output comes from the PC Motherboard in the unit. The question is how to route the wires.
The speaker wires are connected to the JAMMA interface per the schematic, but now my J-PAC is in this interface. While the JPAC has connectors for sound wires, I am not sure if the J-PAC is doing output. It doesn't seem like it should be.
In other words, I think I need to bypass the JAMMA and J-PAC completely for output. What do you think I would need in order to do that? I'm likely back at having to read and understand the speaker hack you did, right?
krick:
Back in the old days, arcade boards often had built-in sound amplifiers.
The JAMMA standard only supports a single mono speaker (two wires). These correspond to "L" and "10" on the JAMMA connector.
Some arcade machine manufacturers use slightly non-standard JAMMA wiring in order to support stereo speakers (four wires). So, in addition to "L" and "10", they generally use "M" and "11" on the JAMMA connector.
If you look at the Arcade Legends 3 schematic, you'll see which wires from the JAMMA connector go into that 9-pin connector that eventually goes to the speakers (and probably the marquee light as well).
In your wiring harness, there are 7 wires that go from the JAMMA connector to that 9-pin connector. The individual "pins" on the edge connector are referenced with letters on the "solder side" and numbers on the "parts side". These refer to the original arcade boards.
Here's the wires that go from the JAMMA connector to that 9-pin connector:
10: Speaker+ 1
L: Speaker- 1
11: Speaker+ 2
M: Speaker- 2
Not sure if speaker 1 is on the left or right. Speaker 2 is on the other side.
F: +12V (probably for marquee light)
27: Ground (also for marquee light)
R: Service??? maybe some kind of service switch or maybe a push button to turn on the PC?
I've colored the connections so you can see what I mean. The red circle is where the wires all come together and head over to the 9-pin connector...
The JPAC has it's own set of connections, but only certain ones are actually connected since the typical PC MAME cabinet use doesn't need them. Here's the diagram with the 7 JAMMA pins listed above circled in green for reference. Notice that there are only two speaker connections as per the JAMMA standard, not four. Also note that the +12V connection is not connected either.
The takeaway here is that in order to get working speakers and whatever the +12V goes to (I assume the marquee light), you'll have to wire them up by bypassing the JPAC.
For the speakers, you need to get the line-level out sound from the motherboard's audio out jack, amplify it, and feed it to the speakers in your cabinet. The easiest way to do this is to get a cheap pair of PC speakers and rip out the amplifier. This is often called a "PC speaker hack". I posted some PC speaker hack links earlier.
For the marquee, you can get +12V and ground connections from one of the 4-pin Molex connectors on the power supply. These connectors are typically used for hard drives. Here's a diagram. The connector I'm talking about is in the lower left...
To get power from a molex connector without hacking up the wiring on your power supply, you can pick up something like this, cut off the black connector, and remove the red (+5V) wire, and one of the black (ground) wires, leaving the yellow (+12V) wire and one black (ground) wire.
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