Help me Identify this board

[Jetto Funk]

On the board I found a small print that said RL(L was backwards)   K1-2-VO
This is the best pic I can find

[Ken Layton]

That's a Kortek chassis.

It was sold in the USA by several companies such as Sharp Image, Penn-Ray Sutra, Imperial International (now known as Betson-Imperial), and Wico (as the Videomaster chassis).

[Jetto Funk]

Thanks!
Now I just gotta find one:)

[Ken Layton]

Looks like this one still has original capacitors on it. Time for a capkit! This chassis is known for having lots of cold solder joints, too, so be sure to look at the soldering job closely. Pay particular attention to the soldering of the large white resistors and check resistors R610 and R612 as they tend to fail by going open circuit.

If the fuses were blown, the horizontal output transistor and maybe the voltage regulator transistor may be shorted and must be replaced.

Look closely at and sniff the flyback transformer. If it's cracked or smells burnt it's probably shot.

You could fix this chassis or have someone fix it for you. Of course you could also replace this chassis with the 8liners replacement and then ebay the broken chassis.

[Jetto Funk]

I checked those resistors and they seem in good shape, nothing smells burnt either.
I looked all over the solder points and they looked good too... I'm stumped.
The initial problem was that there was no power going into the monitor, wen't to discharge it and it didn't even make a pop, yet the rest of the machine turned on(LIGHTS)
I'm not too knowledgeable with arcade machines but I'm trying

[Ken Layton]

Check to see if you are getting the 120 volts AC power at the monitor's power input connector. If no power there then you've got a problem in the game cabinet like a blown fuse, a bad isolation transformer, broken/disconnected wire, bad connector, etc.

You should install a capkit. There are several electrolytics located around the power regulator transistor and the yoke connectors that go bad. These will prevent the monitor from powering up.

Check C606 (47 uf @ 50 volts) as it's probably open.

Check C501 (10 uf @ 250 volts) also probably open or way off value.

I looked thru my service manuals and you definitely have the Kortek chassis that was sold by Sharp Image around 1988.

[Ken Layton]

Updating this old thread. The monitor is a Wico SUM 20C version of a Kortek KT-1420A. Here is the manual:

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Wico%20SUM-20C.pdf

Here is my repair guide:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxtdHBhY2lmaWNvfGd4OjdmM2Y3ODY2Yjc0ZDFkNjg