Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
My new project - 'Transformer' Standup/Sit down driver cab
BadMouth:
For the speakers, you could do an acrylic marquee with proper size holes cut for each speaker and the volume control area.
If all the edges were sanded round and polished, I think it would look good. The speakers would have to be pressed up against it.
It would be even cooler if a limited section in the middle was lit and faded to dark around the speakers.
...or you could do something similar in wood (bondo'd & painted glossy) and put a smaller in the middle.
....or just rip the volume control board out of the right speaker. The only thing that needs to be running back to the housing is speaker wire.
Cretster:
Cheers for the suggestions.
Yes I'll have an acrylic marquee on the front in due course, but the front speakers will actually be downward firing behind that.
I've dismantled the main control one and removed the driver & controls etc from the enclosure. Will be easy enough to give it's own enclosure, as per the left one too.
I had to pick up some pieces of wood today to make a suitable panel for this placing them.
Picked up the warthog today and ye gads what a monster!!! :o
The box it came in was huge, and no wonder why! Can't believe the size of the base plate for the stick. This will take a little figuring out in terms of where it can fit in!!
lolomc2:
My sugestion is to open the speaker, get the potentiometer out of the box --- increase length of wires and attach it somewhere else more practical.... It's so easy to install acoustic cloth compare to anything else... Focus on more important thing ! We want automatic device !!! >:D
You can solve the hole using hot glue and a piece of plastic/wood or whatever... You do not seems to need advises on that :cheers:
Cretster:
Thanks mate - have already stripped out the speaker. :)
I might actually use the cones from the old system I had, but it depends if the impedence matches, and I still don't know how close the sensitivity would be (ie they might be louder or quieter for same volume setting). Would make life easier though.
Anyway, I have a plan for the warthog throttle position. It is temporarily screwed to the floor just to test it fits when I shut the door. It fits.
So now it can sit there but needs to rise up maybe 8-12 inches and move a couple inches to the left ideally so it's not in the way of my left leg when I sit, but is in perfect reach for my arm.
Approx on the floor here, but will actually be closer to camera by a couple of inches or so.
I am trying to thing of a levering/folding mechanism that will allow me to do this?
Ignore the stick - it's just sitting there while I try to figure out where to fit it!! I might use drawer rails that come out from above the Xbox 360 so it can stay upright. I don't want it to be folded like the throttle, because all the time while the door is closed and cabinet upright, the stick will be on its side which will affect the springs etc over time.
I need the throttle I guess to have legs like this thing
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Metal-folding-computer-desk-laptop-table-black-and-red-for-choose-sofa-and-bed-and-office/1017201090.html
But where I can lock in different positions to get the most comfy position, and also something to allow it to rotate a little maybe.
Cretster:
Ok - lots of progress over the weekend. Some setbacks too....
I now have everything (except a keyboard - I do have an on screen trackball one at least of for now) installed so the cabinet will fold away between driver and upright.
It's rough and needs a lot of refining but it's together and it works, and that includes the new addition of the warthog setup.
I can't do an overall pic just yet until I've cleared a ton of stuff from the room but will do. Here are some others:
This is the front panel folded down from the cabinet, but not unfolded itself. You can see the stick and throttle where they are hidden. They just miss the subwoofer/amp, and the xbox360 when the door is shut.
Warthog throttle opened up:
To do this I had to modify the tightening knobs on the articulated arm. I could not get them tight enough by hand to keep it steady due to the throttle weight.
So I modified them with thermoplastic, which sets rather like nylon:
This let me tighten them enough to keep it still.
Here's the stick unfolded. It won't stay unsupported. It's just too heavy given the leverage its got but I actually prefer this as it comes to rest on your knee and it's ideal.
And here you can see it how it folds away:
A view from behind the seat.
It's a cramped cockpit for sure, but the hotas throttle tilts out of the way for driving games, and is a tolerable position for flying.
The stick arm needs more rigidity and I'm not sure the best options for that.
Everything is roungh but works and is playable. Although I broke my cronusmax (shut the cabinet with it still plugged in - crunch), and drilled through the PSU of the Logitech sound system so it now has a sony laptop brick powering it!!
Main problem now is refining it and adding clamps/stoppers/catches/magnets etc to keep things in place where they should be until you WANT them to move.
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