"Avengerless Avenger" - [11/17/15] Finished!

[RxBrad]

I love it when a plan comes together...

[yotsuya]

You're making me break all my personal rules on things I like/dislike in cabs, Brad!!!

[RxBrad]

You're making me break all my personal rules on things I like/dislike in cabs, Brad!!!

...and now I swap out the control panel and replace it with a 2x5ft slab. 

Hey, question: There are some gaps between the speaker panel and the adjacent panels that need filling. Since i don't have fancy table saws, all of my boards are just cut at right angles. Wondering what everyone else uses to fill in cracks like this. Something that hopefully won't crack open again after I paint the cab.

[yotsuya]

You're making me break all my personal rules on things I like/dislike in cabs, Brad!!!

...and now I swap out the control panel and replace it with a 2x5ft slab. 

YOU SON OF A ---smurfette---!!!!!

[edge929]

You're making me break all my personal rules on things I like/dislike in cabs, Brad!!!

...and now I swap out the control panel and replace it with a 2x5ft slab. 

Hey, question: There are some gaps between the speaker panel and the adjacent panels that need filling. Since i don't have fancy table saws, all of my boards are just cut at right angles. Wondering what everyone else uses to fill in cracks like this. Something that hopefully won't crack open again after I paint the cab.

I had a nice table saw for my build and still had some fitment issues. I ended up using Elmer's wood filler to fill them in. Most were really small cracks but I took my time and shoved the filler in with a metal putty knife. There were only a few places where I didn't do this along the entire crack. Took a palm sander to it when done. The only thing you need to worry about is moving the cab. If you pull on the side, you can expect a small crack where you putty'd/painted. I found this out the hard way but was able to paint over it. Now I sandwich the outside of the sides together when I move it, working with the cracks instead of pulling them apart.

[RxBrad]

I was thinking about black caulk on the inside of the cab where the cracks are. It's flexible, so not as likely to crack.

I hope.

I'm currently filling screw holes -- round 2 of 3 completed on that. This weekend I want to cut about 1/4" off the bottom of the side panels, because it currently doesn't even have enough clearance to negotiate the slight slopes on my garage floor. Then I'm going to rout the T-molding slot, and prime/paint the bottom panel before I put the wheels back on, so I shouldn't have to tip the cab over again until maybe when I apply the side art.

[harveybirdman]

what goes through my head every time I see this thread

[RxBrad]

what goes through my head every time I see this thread

I can see where you'd get that.  There is one difference between that Brad and myself.  I wear pants when I work.

[harveybirdman]

 

[stigzler]

Make sure you buy good quality caulk. The cheaper stuff can crack.

Another thing to watch for. Made mistake on mine of painting too soon after filling screw holes. So, I filled them with a good brand wood filler. Let dry. Sanded next day. Think I painted cab the following week, but wierdly, over time, the filler continued to expand a little, so have bumps where screw holes fixed. Eitger it continued to expand, or it reacted with the paint....

[Nephasth]

You sound like an expert caulk handler.

I'll stick with Bondo.

[stigzler]

..and again. 

[Nephasth]

[stigzler]

Ah. And I thought this guy only had one method of communication: offensiveness. He also appears to have 'snide' in his arsenal - posting pictures that he knows will only be known by his buddies so he can snigger and feel all superior in his shared esoteric knowledge. It's an interesting puzzle, I'm torn presently between  narcissistic and schizoid. Either way, there are meds and therapies available for both.

[Nephasth]

Misanthrope. You suck at online diagnosis.

[RxBrad]

Most of the screw holes are filled.  A few still in-progress.  Also, remembered that the reason I bought MH Ready Patch in the first place was that it's supposedly good for filling gaps between MDF boards (derp).  It acts a lot like bondo.  So, I'm working on filling those gaps, too.

Trimmed 1/4" off the bottom of the side panels for clearance.

Routed the T-molding channel.  If you look closely, you can see a few inches where the slot is a bit wider because the bit walked out of the router a little; and I had to re-route it centered.  I'm hopeful that the correctly-centered slot on either side will hold it adequately in place.

Started the marquee box, and attached a couple MDF panels on the back (not really visible in this pic).

Also, painted the bottom panel, so I could permanently attach the wheels and stand the cab back up.

Before I paint the rest of the cab, I need to:
* Finish attaching the back panels
* Add furring strips to support the front/rear access doors
* Finish building the lightbox for the marquee
* Develop the mounting system for the CP (I have magnets.  Lots of them. The same mounts will need to be duplicated on top of the cab, where I can swap out the flat KB/mouse panel.)

With any luck, I should be ready to paint after next weekend. Which is good, because Winter is Coming.

[RxBrad]

I just made a spreadsheet of what I've spent so far to build this cab. 



Yikes.   

[RxBrad]

Got everything assembled, for the most part. 

Very basic lightbox made from scrap wood I had lying around.  Couldn't really make it completely enclosed, since it's pretty tight on space, and it needs room for the buttons and whatnot when the control panel is mounted on the top.  Will be lit with LED tape (drilled a hole to make room for the power cable).  I was going to use a fluorescent bulb, but just didn't have enough room for it.



Found the retainer strip I'll mount above the monitor to keep the screen glass in place.  It's just a 90-cent ruler from Home Depot, cut to size with screwholes drilled and countersunk.  Also filed a taper on the top edge of the back, so it sits flush with the speaker panel above it.



It had markings and indentations on both sides, so I took my power sander to it.  Should work just fine.  It'll get painted black to match the cab.



Drilled some vent holes in the back.  While I did this, I dropped the drill and took a chunk out of one of the MDF panels.  So, there's another spot to patch up.  I think I might put another 8" of fixed panel on the back before I paint back there.  That way, the access door won't be quite so enormous (and I think I'll still have plenty of room to reach the components in the back.



Masked off the admin panel and the parts I'd already painted on the bottom...



And now I'm priming it.  Using a spraycan for both sides of the front sections, with all the random nooks and crannies.  It's crazy how rough MDF gets when you spray it with primer.  So, lots of sanding to do.  I have a gallon of Kilz and foam roller/brushes for the rest.



Ignore the bowing in the MDF below the marquee.  You don't see that.  And you'll see it even less once the marquee retainer goes on. 

[RxBrad]

Two coats of primer on. Black satin paint starts going on tomorrow. The waiting between coats is killing me.

[Slippyblade]

I just made a spreadsheet of what I've spent so far to build this cab. 



Yikes.   

Terrifying isn't it?  Budgets do not work in this hobby.

[RxBrad]

I just made a spreadsheet of what I've spent so far to build this cab. 



Yikes.   

Terrifying isn't it?  Budgets do not work in this hobby.

Needing to buy extra MDF and plexi to replace stuff that I flubbed doesn't help, either.

But, at least I'm learning stuff. And I got a few new tools out of that cash.

[ChanceKJ]

  nice build! Love that admin, well done!

I had a similar moment half way through mine, "oh, wow, what have I done" etc... But you press through. Pretty sure all said and done I hit just south of 5K. Half of which was shipping charges and conversion rates  ... Aww

[DaOld Man]

First thing you throw in the trash on this hobby is a budget.
Second will be your estimated time to complete it.

[SNAAKE]

First thing you throw in the trash on this hobby is a budget.
Second will be your estimated time to complete it.

damn right

[RxBrad]

First coat of Rustoleum Black Satin Paint.

Any recommendations on how long one should wait before sanding oil paint and applying the second coat? The can says fully cured in 24hrs, but I'm skeptical.

[RxBrad]

As I'm waiting for paint to dry, I was thinking...



8 buttons...

I really have this laid out for Street Fighter IV PC with the Xbox360 controller button colors... Which might get about 2% of the playtime I put into it. 

I think I might rearrange the colored buttons into the bottom row in NeoGeo layout. Then make the first 3 columns of buttons the arcade fighter buttons.

[Xerobull]

RX- do you happen to have the CP Photoshop files for your build? Thanks!

[RxBrad]

RX- do you happen to have the CP Photoshop files for your build? Thanks!

I can do that when I get home.  Technically, I did the CP using GIMP, if that makes a difference.

Also, the file is friggen' hyuuuuge, because it's at 300dpi.  Any objections to me removing the backdrop photo to get the size down?  (Also, where does one upload a >1GB file for sharing?)

EDIT: I VPNed into my home computer and uploaded it to Dropbox.  Wasn't nearly as big as I thought (I was thinking of the sideart, apparently).  Here you go (180MB)

[RxBrad]

RX- do you happen to have the CP Photoshop files for your build? Thanks!

I can do that when I get home.  Technically, I did the CP using GIMP, if that makes a difference.

Also, the file is friggen' hyuuuuge, because it's at 300dpi.  Any objections to me removing the backdrop photo to get the size down?  (Also, where does one upload a >1GB file for sharing?)

EDIT: I VPNed into my home computer and uploaded it to Dropbox.  Wasn't nearly as big as I thought (I was thinking of the sideart, apparently).  Here you go (180MB)

Just saw your other thread.. Looks like you're probably interested in the Admin Panel, as well.  Here you go...

[Xerobull]

Thanks, RX! Downloading them now- did you break a rule by tunneling out of your company's network? 

How's the satin paint taking? I'm thinking of going that way too.

[RxBrad]

Thanks, RX! Downloading them now- did you break a rule by tunneling out of your company's network? 

How's the satin paint taking? I'm thinking of going that way too.

No problem.

I didn't break any rules. I don't think. Probably. Maybe.... 

The paint took pretty well, although I need to keep my hands off the cab for a few more days and let it cure.  This Rustoleum is oil-based, so theoretically it'll be more durable than latex once it finally cures. However, It scratches really easily a day or two after it's painted. I already managed to scratch the front door with routine handling. I guess I'll just make sure that scratch is on the inside of the door when I install it. 

Also, my painting technique needs some work. You can see roller marks in some places when it's in the right light. I think it's because I didn't stop running the roller over the paint soon enough, and as it partially dried, it was more likely to show marks.

[RxBrad]

Paint's done (except for the control panel, which will immediately get covered up with overlay and T-molding)

Marquee plexiglass mounted using clear plastic wall corner guards. Attached to the cab with screws + EZ-Loks. After taking the photo below, I took off the corner guards and painted the inside surfaces with black spray paint (which is currently drying).

Rear door attached using a pair of 12" piano hinges. Currently just taped shut until I screw on the window sash lock that'll keep it closed.

The plastic retainer clips that'll hold the speaker cover on had to be hammered into place. Unfortunately, that hammering completely dorked the joints I'd patched between the speaker panel and the panels above and below.  Luckily, the lower joint is totally covered by the monitor glass retainer. The top joint, I'll need to fix.

[RxBrad]

Making more progress...  Printed some temporary marquee art on paper and installed it.



CP art applied, T-molding attached, and controls installed...



I bought magnets with the intention of using them to keep the CP secure, but I honestly don't think I need them.  It sits perfectly in place with just a furring strip attached to the bottom to keep it from sliding off the front of the cab.



The control panel can also be moved to sit on top of the cab.



I cut a flat panel from a piece of 3/4" melamine-coated shelf.  This can be swapped with the CP to provide a surface for KB/mouse gaming.  It's only temporarily white.  It'll get vinyl art applied when I order the side art.

[stigzler]

I do like this build. Good work. 

[Xerobull]

I cut a flat panel from a piece of 3/4" melamine-coated shelf.  This can be swapped with the CP to provide a surface for KB/mouse gaming.  It's only temporarily white.  It'll get vinyl art applied when I order the side art.

Looking really good!

Sell me on using a flat surface for KB/Mouse vs just having a pull-out drawer? What are the pros?

[RxBrad]

I cut a flat panel from a piece of 3/4" melamine-coated shelf.  This can be swapped with the CP to provide a surface for KB/mouse gaming.  It's only temporarily white.  It'll get vinyl art applied when I order the side art.

Looking really good!

Sell me on using a flat surface for KB/Mouse vs just having a pull-out drawer? What are the pros?

Thanks!

The way I'm doing it, the KB/mouse are at optimal height and angle. Drawers are often placed awkwardly.

[RxBrad]

Finished the speaker cover. Sprayed the back surface of the 1/4" cutout I'd created with glue. Then wrapped it in speaker fabric and adhered the fabric to the back of the cutout. Hammered in the plastic attachment pins, and pressed it into place on the cab.



Also attached the front door using these godawful piece of crap Liberty surface mount inset hinges.



I'm sorry, but these things suck. I weighed the door, and at 12lbs, it was in the lower end of the weight range where they recommend 3 hinges. It still sags, and has a little over a quarter inch of vertical play. Despite being inset hinges, and my door only being inset about 1/4" from the side panels, the door doesn't totally clear the sides. And that's with the door mounted 1/8" out from where I wanted it. Apparently you have to mount it with the front of the door flush with the front of the side boards for it to work.



Anyone have any recommendations on different hinges?  If I used piano hinges on the top of the door and had it hang down, would that be structurally sound? Or would the door eventually fall off the screws?

[RxBrad]

So, I took the front door back off, and the hinges are on their way to Home Depot's return counter. It doesn't look like any of the hardware stores in town have any other choices for inset hinges.

Would this hinge work for my front door? (3/4" thick, front face of door is a little over 1/4" back from front of side panels)



Looks like showing the hinge.

EDIT: Welp.. I ordered it. Guess I'll find out if it works.

[harveybirdman]

I used these but then again I dropped my flap. Yours doesn't open that way.

[ChanceKJ]

take a look at Blum (or Euro) hinges from here: http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=55420&cat=3,41241

Maybe get yourself one of these from IKEA too so you don't need a handle. I used them on the lower panel for my FLYNNs build.
http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/80230224/