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Author Topic: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (Progress Report Jan '16)  (Read 11433 times)

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harveybirdman

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Bad ass marquee


Origingal marquee idea (poorly self done)


This project will be my attempt at my own Alpha One.  Current PCB roster, Raiden II, Storm Blade, Fighting Hawk

I am using a 6 in 1 Jamma Switcher that I plan to hard wire to a 6 way switch externally mounted on the cabinet.

More to come


Original Post Below:

So I bought this from CL for a hundred bucks, it has a big Hantarex and 1945 Strikers installed

I haven't gotten into it yet (just got it home tonight)

It powers on and the screen is all red and has some vertical waves (will post a video later)

As of right now the tentative plan is to do a vertical shooter cab influenced by Opt2Nots Alpha One, though I do not know if it will run boards or a PC with Mame, most likely the latter to accommodate my large game list tendencies.

In the meantime I was hoping some of the tech experts can help me troubleshoot and educate me on what I have, what is good about it and what sucks, general advice etc.

Here are some pics, more information to follow







« Last Edit: May 13, 2016, 04:07:26 pm by harveybirdman »

yotsuya

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2014, 11:37:05 pm »
So I bought this from CL for a hundred bucks, it has a big Hantarex and 1945 Strikers installed

I haven't gotten into it yet (just got it home tonight)

It powers on and the screen is all red and has some vertical waves (will post a video later)

As of right now the tentative plan is to do a vertical shooter cab influenced by Opt2Nots Alpha One, though I do not know if it will run boards or a PC with Mame, most likely the latter to accommodate my large game list tendencies.

In the meantime I was hoping some of the tech experts can help me troubleshoot and educate me on what I have, what is good about it and what sucks, general advice etc.

Here are some pics, more information to follow

20141118_210410 by harveybirdman1, on Flickr

20141118_210349 by harveybirdman1, on Flickr

20141118_210451 by harveybirdman1, on Flickr

20141118_201834 by harveybirdman1, on Flickr

Excellent pickup!
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Nephasth

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2014, 12:03:57 am »
HA! I've got one of those too! Plan on doing the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with it too. Even paid the same price. :lol


yotsuya

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2014, 12:07:03 am »
HA! I've got one of those too! Plan on doing the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with it too. Even paid the same price. :lol



Wish I had one of those when I did my Macross build.  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Nephasth

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2014, 12:08:08 am »
Damn you, now I gotta import a Macross PCB...

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2014, 12:11:56 am »
HA! I've got one of those too! Plan on doing the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with it too. Even paid the same price. :lol



AWESOME!  I'm going to post a video of my monitor power-up and hope someone can walk me through troubleshooting and accomplishing the repair without frying myself.   Love the idea of a dedicated SHMUP cab.



harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2014, 12:13:37 am »
HA! I've got one of those too! Plan on doing the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with it too. Even paid the same price. :lol



Wish I had one of those when I did my Macross build.  :cheers:

Dude if anything I accomplish comes with 1/10th of the awesomeness of your Macross build then I will be totally stoked at my success level.

yotsuya

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2014, 12:19:25 am »
HA! I've got one of those too! Plan on doing the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with it too. Even paid the same price. :lol



Wish I had one of those when I did my Macross build.

Dude if anything I accomplish comes with 1/10th of the awesomeness of your Macross build then I will be totally stoked at my success level.

Thanks, bro. If you need anything, let me know.  I too was influenced by Opt2Not's build. Hope he gets around to finishing one day. :cheers: :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2014, 12:23:41 am »
lame recording but this is what happens upon power up, there is an audible ding and the marquee light and coin door light come on and this is what displays on screen.

This is as far as I've gotten so far, previous owners said it worked when they first received it.  Said they had been able to get it various results by adjusting some of the pots on the monitor.  I have not tried any adjustments at this point (still educating myself on this monitor)



]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9myBrpNAplE
« Last Edit: October 05, 2015, 10:09:35 am by harveybirdman »

yotsuya

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2014, 12:25:49 am »
lame recording but this is what happens upon power up, there is an audible ding and the marquee light and coin door light come on and this is what displays on screen.

This is as far as I've gotten so far, previous owners said it worked when they first received it.  Said they had been able to get it various results by adjusting some of the pots on the monitor.  I have not tried any adjustments at this point (still educating myself on this monitor)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9myBrpNAplE

Make sure your cabling from the harness to the board is snug, then try the pots.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Nephasth

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #10 on: November 19, 2014, 12:36:13 am »
Looks like board issues too, the game doesn't boot up. What's your power supply output? And are you getting the same voltages at the board edge connector? If you've got other jamma boards or cabs swap em out and check out the results.

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #11 on: November 19, 2014, 12:41:12 am »
Ill have to break the voltmeter out when I have some time to work on it, thanks for the suggestions.  :cheers:

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2014, 08:28:58 pm »
Update: 5v from power supply is good, should I take a reading from the 5v pins on the Jamma plug at board?

What I believe is trying to display on screen is the start up bios.  I can make out

BG RAM Ok
PALETTE RAM OK
SECURITY CHIP

there is no "ok" following security chip, I checked in MAME and the expected boot screen also has work ram and obj ram but I may not see these on my monitor because of a display setting.

Could there be a bad chip on the board perhaps? Is the next step to remove the board and inspect?

Haze

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #13 on: November 19, 2014, 09:22:08 pm »
does sound like the security PIC is dead.

the chip isn't dumped either (we simulate the responses from it) so you're out of luck if you need to program a new one, the unprotected set runs on slightly different hardware too (gfx banking logic is different)

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2014, 09:29:16 pm »
Bummer. Any idea where to go to find out where this chip is on the board so I can make sure it isn't a connectivity issue. Google?

WindDrake

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2014, 10:02:12 pm »
Looks like a 3-KOAM Z-Back cabinet. Real popular. I've got a blue one myself (2Player MAME Build.)

The Hantarex MTC-9110 is a decent 25" monitor. Not quite the pile of crap the 9000 was. Easy enough to work on.

+5v should be measured at the board, preferrably at an actual device like an EPROM.

IIRC these come up with Security issues a lot. If you have the skill and equipment, examine the QFP100 Psikyo customs and QFP64 & 100 CPU's for cold solder. I know these (like all QFP's in industrial use) are prone to stressed/cracked joints. Off the top of my head this is what I remember about the Psykio boards.

Absolutely do not do this if you don't have the proper equipment or experience.

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #16 on: November 19, 2014, 10:28:58 pm »
Thanks for the reply! I think I understand what you mean but I'm definitely in the inexperienced and ill equipped category. I might try to source another Jamma board but in the meantime I will probably shift focus to the monitor to attempt to get my error message to show up clearly.


harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #17 on: November 20, 2014, 08:22:46 pm »
Ok so I managed to get the image looking better by adjusting the monitor pots.  BTW never trust a 7 and 5 year old to tell you "better" or "worse" when adjusting a monitor.  Once I had a mirror in front of the screen, it went much smoother.

I still have a little issue at the edge jumping that I can't seem to adjust out.  Could this indicate I might need some type of monitor repair?

Here's a video of the "after" adjustments I did, please don't make fun of my horrific Oklahoma accent.

]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJmBZ1MikTs


Also in the interest of full disclosure, when I measured the 5V from the power supply it was like 5.7, could that be impeding the board from booting correctly? Or could it have been what potentially fried the security chip?  I was going to try to regulate the output from the power supply but there is a hole where one might expect to see a potentiometer.  It's a Happ power supply, is there a screw in there that you turn? Surely it wasn't designed so that one needs to poke something into a power supply to make a voltage adjustment?



« Last Edit: October 05, 2015, 10:10:27 am by harveybirdman »

WindDrake

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2014, 10:13:03 pm »
Arcade (and most industrial) power supplies are adjustable to make up for losses in the harness. That hole is likely supposed to have a potentiometer behind it that you can adjust.

5.7vDC is way, way too high. 5.3 is usually the very top end of anything I'd consider safe while 4.9-5.1 is your usual sweet spot.

Monitor edge jumping means your monitor is due for a cap kit.

Hopefully your board issue is just a solder issue, and not a blown security device from overvoltage.

harveybirdman

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #19 on: November 20, 2014, 11:06:24 pm »
Thanks so much for the response.  I pulled the power supply there is definitely something rattling around in there wouldn't be surprised if its the remains of a busted pot.

I'm going to order a replacement since they are relatively cheap and I don't want to expose the current or any future boards to incorrect voltage.

As far as the solder issue you mentioned, is that visable from the top or bottom of the board? Is there some tell tale signs i should look for?

Thanks again for the responses I apologize for spamming the main forum.

harveybirdman

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3-Koam Z back project. (planning stage)
« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2014, 11:53:35 am »
Moving forward I am considering  two options

1) Keep this as a dedicated Jamma cabinet and drop in something tasty (Raiden 2 anyone?), clean up the cab, maybe do some custom artwork, and either flip it or keep it and potentially incorporate compatible boards with a switcher.

Or

2) Mame it. Get either a transcoder or buy a pc with PCI E  Slot to support Arcade VGA (neither of which I currently have) and have it play as many vert shooters as I want.  Would need a Jpac as well to use existing controls and maintain compatabillity.

Which would you choose and why?

Also can a Mod move this to project announcements?


Nephasth

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #21 on: November 25, 2014, 12:40:24 pm »
Keep it jamma and amass a collection of sweet ass shmup boards. ;)

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Re: Picked up what I believe was an angled MVS, need help
« Reply #22 on: November 25, 2014, 04:02:40 pm »
I too was influenced by Opt2Not's build. Hope he gets around to finishing one day.
:(  Alpha One will be resurrected in some form in the future. I'm not sure when, but the ideas, name, and artwork from A1 is definitely going to used eventually.


Quote from: harveybirdman
As of right now the tentative plan is to do a vertical shooter cab influenced by Opt2Nots Alpha One, though I do not know if it will run boards or a PC with Mame, most likely the latter to accommodate my large game list tendencies.
Moving forward I am considering  two options

1) Keep this as a dedicated Jamma cabinet and drop in something tasty (Raiden 2 anyone?), clean up the cab, maybe do some custom artwork, and either flip it or keep it and potentially incorporate compatible boards with a switcher.

Or

2) Mame it. Get either a transcoder or buy a pc with PCI E  Slot to support Arcade VGA (neither of which I currently have) and have it play as many vert shooters as I want.  Would need a Jpac as well to use existing controls and maintain compatabillity.

Which would you choose and why?
This is one of the things I struggled with Alpha One. In the end, I wanted both! Some shump titles in Mame, (or shmupmame) still do not play 100%. Recently Mame has updated support for Raiden II/DX, but it still isn't exactly the same as a the PCB original. There is a big thread on the shmups forum that has been comparing the differences.

While to the casual shmup player these differences aren't so big, for serious players this "can't fly". :)

chopperthedog set-up a simple 2-way relay switch for one of his cabinets. Cheaper than getting a Jamma Switcher, and the wiring looks simple enough.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130607.msg1360048.html#msg1360048

This is something I want to get going on all my cabinets. Having the ability to run mame AND original PCB's is a great option, especially for those of us who still collect PCB's.

harveybirdman

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Re: 3-Koam Z back project. (planning stage)
« Reply #23 on: November 26, 2014, 10:14:58 pm »
I'll check out that Chopper thread, thanks!

In the meantime here's some more info on current condition.  This cab had an original power supply built into the back of the cabinet, it must have either developed issues or had some type of unique setup because at some point in this cab's life it was replaced with a Happ power plus mounted on the board rack.

Here you can see what I assume are 12V and 5V DC connections coming from one side of the original PSU and they weren't hooked up to anything when I got the cab.



The AC though still is coming through on the following side through, and was intended to go straight to the isolation transformer and then eventually to the monitor.  However when PSU number two was put in some jackass spliced into the hot and neutral with speaker wire and used that to run AC to the new power supply (pictured below)



So how to fix this nonsense?  I'm thinking I can run the AC from the original supply directly to the new power supply and then run wires from there to the isolation transformer right?  For that matter I may just scrap the original PSU all together and replace the only remaining functionality with something like this

http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImageCompressAll300/A0KR_1_20110917_11145916.jpg


Also with regards to the Strikers board, I'm pretty sure I know what happened.  PSU # 2 was sending at least 5.7 volts to the board for god knows how long (adjustment knob was broken).  After some intense visual inspection of the board I saw this on PIN 15 at R30.  From what I've seen that's test pin on JAMMA?  It may have little to do with the board not functioning but still that doesn't look good.  Maybe some experts could tell me more about this.



Finally, there are several removable chips on this board. they are numbered in this picture 1, 2, 3, and 4.  Does anyone know if any of them are the security chip for this board?  The reason I ask is that  I saw 2 and 3 for sale on an ebay listing for a very reasonable price, that seem to match this specific board, and if I can get this board working for the price of a resistor and a couple of super inexpensive chips then that's all the more longer I can justify to the wife why the cabinet needs to stay indoors! 



All for now, thanks for looking.  Happy Thanksgiving!







 
« Last Edit: October 05, 2015, 10:18:50 am by harveybirdman »

harveybirdman

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Re: Update: BulletReign: a Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab
« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2014, 10:15:25 pm »
Project officially has a direction now...



I will keep it Jamma, add a 6 game switcher, lose the remote, wire it to the coolest 6 way switch I can find mounted on the kick plate of the cab just under the CP.

The strikers board is officially dead, replacing the burned out resistor failed to make a difference at boot up.  However I'm working on sourcing a new board to truly test monitor.  Then I will probablly have to reach out for help with a cap kit.  The chassis in the cab doesn't match what is in the Hantarex manual so I'm guessing it too has been replaced at some point in this cabinet's life time. More to come on that later.

The old power supply on this cab (that if you remember was only passing AC to a faulty second power supply) failed during the first startup with the new Happ supply.  So I pulled it and ordered a power socket from twisted quarter.  I have a pretty neat idea for the installation of the new socket, more to come on that later as well.

Here you can see the original supply



New Power Supply wired up


 
« Last Edit: October 05, 2015, 10:45:02 am by harveybirdman »

harveybirdman

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Re: BulletReign: a Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (Power rebuild underway)
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2014, 09:33:39 pm »
So after scrapping power supply # 1, I was left with this on the back of the cabinet...



What to do?  Well I knew that my project definitely needed a CoryBee Serial Plate once it was done, and now I have wire up a new power socket.  So how about combining both into one?

The Plan....

Recess mount a metal plate with a power socket from Twisted Quarter attached, combine it's aesthetic look with a serial plate for the cab.

Materials...

Well so I was going to go to Lowe's and look for some sheet metal, everything I found though was pretty flimsy, RATS!  So at first I thought I would just cover a thin piece of plywood with some of the stuff they sell in the HVAC area and just be done with it.  However after returning home and cleaning out the garage I found this laying around ....



The cover for a long dead PC my father gave me that was bound for the dumpster.  "This is pretty sturdy," I said to myself and suddenly in a moment of Zen-like clarity I decided to channel my inner PBJ.

Plus it was an excuse to use the cut off saw.

Plate Cut....



It isn't perfect but I squared it up pretty good on the table grinder.  Mapped out where the power socket would go....



I started to try to cut out the hole with an angle grinder, but that didn't go so well.  Using the drill press I managed to cut out a rectangle between two sloppy parallel cuts.  Yesterday I picked up a cheapo rotary tool from Harbor Freight and widened the hole enough for the socket to fit.  The Rotary tool was only $19.99 on sale and has 6 speeds.  Sure it's no Dremmel but for the price I can't complain.  The grinding bits were rubbish though so I had to go buy a Dremmel grinding bit from Wal Mart, and I damn near wore it slap out.



Next up squaring up the weirdo hole in the back, I started with my multipurpose oscillating tool, and I'll use the sanding bits on my rotary tool to even things up nicely.



Finally I jumped in paint.net to layout the plate portion that will eventually get printed on those full sheet clear Avery labels, which I picked up at Staples last week for about 16 bucks, OUCH! Of course I started with the KLOV template that Cory stole, and here is the first mockup.



Times running out on my weekend though, more to come.  Thanks for looking.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2015, 10:48:13 am by harveybirdman »

harveybirdman

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Finishing touches on plate, sanded of the most egregious tool marks.





It helps to print the label on the right side... tsk tsk





Label correctly applied, I added a nod to Opt2Not and Alpha One in the Model No. for the inspiration.  Those are tiny screws! number 4 would fit the holes but I ended up going metric so I could get black ones.  I can't remember the size but they are little fellers!





I painted around the hole to give it a look of completeness but I was limited to my options because this is setting in my dining room right now, I just brushed on some acrylic craft paint, the whole back of the cab will be repainted before it's through.  Also I'm considering framing this out to hide a few sins.  masked the inside with Duct Tape.





Here are some shots with the plate mounted....








harveybirdman

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Video on current project progress...

]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQum54cUqiQ

I figured out the screen flip (it's DIP Switch 8), pleased with myself so far....



As you may have seen from the video, my Chassis doesn't match the accompanying manual



I don't know if they replaced the entire monitor or if they just slapped in whatever 25in chassis they had at hand.  As you can see from the video the board has some issues.  I'm hoping that I can just buy the cap kit off eBay for 8 bucks and not f up the board on the subsequent soldering adventure...  Any tips? Advice? Warnings?

In the mean time I'm working on the panel, I just ordered some universal mounting plates and I'm about to drop some SERIOUS coin to Brian and Randy.  Look for more exterior and CP updates to come...
« Last Edit: October 06, 2015, 09:31:09 am by harveybirdman »

PL1

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Label correctly applied, I added a nod to Opt2Not and Alpha One in the Model No. for the inspiration.  Those are tiny screws! number 4 would fit the holes but I ended up going metric so I could get black ones.  I can't remember the size but they are little fellers!


Looks good, other than the math fail.   >:D

Watts = Volts * Amps   ;D


Scott

harveybirdman

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Thanks Scott I'll fix that when I redo label to straighten...  ;D

harveybirdman

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So I decided to change gears and work on the panel.

It's freezing cold in Oklahoma this week, but I lit a nice fire in the shop and was able to work comfortably.

First order of business, remove the Primal Rage control panel overlay, now there may be better ways to do this but a heat gun and a scraper worked wonders for me.




After the first pass....



There are still some stubborn places where the the CPO and the adhesive already had separated, also several thin rusty areas...



I ran out of time but made good progress with a wire brush and paint thinner coupled with a sander.  I'll post another pic tomorrow after I finish cleaning it up.



Once it's clean I'll prime it, I don't want rust to rear it's ugly head in the future.  Anyone have a good primer recommendation?  Sure I'm just going to end up covering the two larger surfaces with another CPO but I want to paint it to protect it long term.

Other project notes

Two Seimitsu LS-60's and Octagonal restrictors ordered from Paradise Arcade Shop
Two Universal mounting plates ordered from Focus Attack
(more $ than Bryan sells them, but he was out. Didn't take long for the competition to pounce on his idea I see)
Forty foot of T-Molding, Happ Competition Convex buttons, and Ruby Gemstone Hand Candy Balltops from Groovy Game Gear

It's going to be arcade Christmas in my mailbox pretty soon!




emphatic

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #31 on: December 31, 2014, 08:09:28 am »
Wow, someone likes paying for shipping.  :dizzy:

Malenko

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #32 on: December 31, 2014, 08:37:12 am »
love the name, looking forward to the progress
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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #33 on: December 31, 2014, 08:40:19 am »
Interested in seeing what you do with your CP. I've got mine stripped down and about ready to get some holes welded up right meow.

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #34 on: December 31, 2014, 08:56:04 am »
I guess its just a necessary evil emphatic but yeah FA's shipping is retarded given that it was sent from PA.

Thanks Malenko  :cheers:

Nep: While I have access to welding equipment, my welding skills leave much to be desired.  I may take a page from the operators and merely cover the unused holes with overlay and then cut a polycarbonate sheet to go over the top.  They actually covered the bottom row of Primal Rage buttons with some padlock shaped black stickers when this was switched to a two button per player cab and with the arcylic overlay they had, you'd never know.

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #35 on: December 31, 2014, 09:11:47 am »
Yeah, I'm talking bolt holes, mine also has a split along the top seam. I'm just going to use button hole plugs since I'll be going a different route than a CPO.

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #36 on: December 31, 2014, 09:47:19 am »
I went from this:


to this:


Didnt weld anything, just drilled the holes in the plexi and covered the swiss cheese with an overlay.
2014 Standup UCA Runner Up
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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #37 on: December 31, 2014, 09:42:29 pm »
Finished cleaning up the panel today, might have time to paint tomorrow we'll see....

Top side sanded



Under side sanded



Unfortunately the sander won't reach the inner recesses on the inside of the panel and equally bad that is where most of the rust is hiding.



I started to sand by hand but yeah.... that sucks.  So I went to the Home Depot and picked up some Naval Jelly.  It works well but stinks and is messy also leaves behind a discolored patina not the best solution if one was going for a bare metal presentation.  Fortunately I'm painting mine and then covering with a CPO.

Here is the stuff in action (don't forget to wear gloves, that's acid yo...)



After rinsing it off, it's pretty effective



Here's a shot of the panel temporarily back on the cab until I can paint.  All for now, Happy New Year!


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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #38 on: January 10, 2015, 12:34:02 pm »
I got some stuff in for the cab so I thought I'd post an update...

Here are the Seimitsu LS-60's, the adapter plates work brilliantly, and Randy's Hand Candy Ball Tops complete things very nicely.  At first I was going to swap out the blue shaft covers but considering my overall art design plans I actually think the Seimitsu Clear Blue shaft cover/Hand Candy Ruby Gemstone combination looks pretty flipping sweet.



I had a Lowes card from Christmas so I figured I'd buy some Acrylic to cut a new CP cover so that I could test mount the controls.  Seriously.... ---fudgesicle--- Acrylic!  :angry:  I am so pissed that I wasted the money, that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- cracks if you fart while drilling it (EVEN WITH A FORSTNER BIT!)  Hell I can hand drill polycarbonate with a spade bit and not crack it!  If you have the $ ALWAYS use Lexan over Acrylic!  I will have to save some $ though because the ---daisies--- at Home Depot only have inexpensive sizes of Lexan 24 inches wide and my panel is 25 and a halfish.  So for that extra inch and a half?  I have to buy a damn 32 x 48 inch piece that is is freaking 70 bucks!

/endrant 

Here are some pictures of the buttons and joys mounted.  I can tell right away that I'm not going to be happy with the buttons in the provided holes.  Definitely want a more Japanese layout, going to head to slagcoin and try to figure out a solution that would require minimal drilling.  I'm thinking I may just drop button 1 down a few millimeters, but who knows?





Also two of the next three major projects are going to have to wait for warmer weather

One will be a tear down and refinish of the coin door, complete with pimped out paint job, and the other will be adding durable Formica laminate to the sides, kickplate, and speaker surround.  I know that their are other cheaper solutions like roll vinyl etc. but in a house with small children durability is important.  there is some water damage at the bottom of the side panels that will need to be dealt with as well but here's a tease of this girls new clothes....

First some swatches that I considered.




And of course the winning combination




One more thing I could use your help thinking about, is where the boards are going to live once this battle station becomes operational.  I have two areas inside the lower cab  on either side of the coin door.  The useable area is about 15 in high, by 9 in wide, and about 27 in deep or so.  There is also some room behind the coin door on the floor   I'm thinking some type of rack mounted vertical orientations of the JAMMA goodness.

I image googled rack mount circuit boards and some neat things showed up







But I think I'm going to end up rolling my own less elegant solution... still wouldn't mind some killer ideas if you guys have any.

emphatic

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Re: BulletReign: Vertical Jamma Switching SHMUP cab (some lite CP work)
« Reply #39 on: January 10, 2015, 03:17:19 pm »
If the PCBs have holes that are lining up, you could use simple standoffs to do a PCB sandwich of sorts.

Like so:


About the button layout, you could just drop the 1st button to the hole below and try it out for a bit? What games are you planning on playing? Unless you're gonna play the later CAVE games, 3 buttons are enough.

  
 

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