Fix it Felix Jr. CRT Bartop | DONE | Final update - Page2

[jdbailey1206]

Love the CP.  The black border really makes the whole thing pop.

[AzureKnight]

   Nice work so far, it is coming together well!

[emphatic]

Everything is awesome.

[Rockhart]

This is really awesome! The artwork on the control panel looks fantastic!

[arno]

Thanks guys!

At this moment I am working on the electronics and the bezel. 

[arno]

New update 

Begun applying the t-molding. I made a small cut in the corners so that it has some space to form.







Looks much better :-)







Aluminum profiles made to size (38cm). This will fix the plexiglass.







Shortend the LED:



In order to secure the upper aluminum section, i will use threaded bushes.









Done, but still need a paint job...







2 plexiglass sheets are also made to size:



These fall both in a profile on the inside of the cabinet:



Cut the vinyl for the monitor bezel:



TV speaker used again and fitted:



Convex classic mini buttons placed for insert coin, button 3 en button 4.





There is the light:



Service button placed to start the computer:



Finally, the PC can be placed! The ATX power supply is slightly adjusted so that the cables leaves the side of the housing.





Thight fit!



Harddisc placed.



The PCB of the TV was in a nice plastic bracket. This is re-used.







:-)



The interface (IPAC) is next! This is provided with PCB feets.





The LED strip needs a 12 volt power supply. This is connected to a molex connector.





230volt in:





PC connected start button, this plug is connected to the motherboard of the PC and is also standard in a computer case.



The bezel / plexiglass will soon come against these blocks, the aluminum profile ensures that this is being held thight.





Ground cable made because of the various sizes connectors.





Controlpanel wiring:













In this picture you can see that the neck board of the TV only just inside. This is challenge ...













The loose cables will soon go to START, PAUSE and STOP buttons.













AND: after plugging in the powercord, it runs. So next update will be BIG

[EMDB]

Very nice and clean work. This Bartop will be heavy, I think I would have used an LCD for it. And I always find it a pity to use marquee retainers which cover so much of the marquee. Half of that length would have been enough too.

[opt2not]

Contrary to EMDB, I like that it'll be heavy. It'll be sturdier, less likely to slide or topple if you have players who are heavy-handed.
Plus bonus points for using a proper CRT.
(mind you, due to the extra work getting a CRT into a bartop, I will be opting for an LCD myself, 'cause I'm a lazy arse. But I will live vicariously through you!)

You're in the final stretch!  It's so close to being done!

This is definitely shaping up to be one of my favourite bartop projects on this forum. 

[johnrt]

Contrary to EMDB, I like that it'll be heavy. It'll be sturdier, less likely to slide or topple if you have players who are heavy-handed.
Plus bonus points for using a proper CRT.
(mind you, due to the extra work getting a CRT into a bartop, I will be opting for an LCD myself, 'cause I'm a lazy arse. But I will live vicariously through you!)

You're in the final stretch!  It's so close to being done!

This is definitely shaping up to be one of my favourite bartop projects on this forum. 

Believe me: It's heavy enough even with an LCD! But the CRT approach is way cooler of course!

[arno]

Great, thanks guys! Very nice to read

@EMDB the marquee retainers are 18mm, exactly the width of the panels and does not cover the artwork:-).

The weight of the cab, yeah it is heavy! 

[EMDB]

Great, thanks guys! Very nice to read

@EMDB the marquee retainers are 18mm, exactly the width of the panels and does not cover the artwork:-).

The weight of the cab, yeah it is heavy! 

I understand you took the height of the retainers into account but still 2 x 18mm is huge compared to the total height of the marquee. It seems your initial artwork had a better ratio:



You could have used 15mm or even 12mm for the top panels. I did for my full cabinet:

[matsadona]

Excellent build, and I'm totally jealous. But, why is it a horizontal monitor for a vertical game??!? 

[arno]

I see EMDB. I will have a look at it later on.

@matsadona, i know, you are right, but horizontally mounted fits much better in this small cabinet. Most of the time i will play horizontal games.

[matsadona]

Aha, I assumed it was a FIFJR dedicated cabinet, and that's why it didn't make any sense to me...

[ChanceKJ]

Tisk Tisk, missing the rubber boots on the QD's connecting to the button switches. ...Sloppy.

 . I kidd, I kidd!

I just realized I haven't mentioned how much I love this build.  seriously, well done so far!

[arno]

Tisk Tisk, missing the rubber boots on the QD's connecting to the button switches. ...Sloppy.

 . I kidd, I kidd!

I just realized I haven't mentioned how much I love this build.  seriously, well done so far!

I am sorry, i guess i need to make another cab with protection covers?

Thanks!

[DefenderArcade]

Looking sweet. kudos to the nice and neat wiring!

[arno]

FINAL UPDATE!

Excited to see if everything works when the power switch is switched, luckily everything was connected properly and we have a solid picture!



The marquee LED strip gives a very bright, wide beam angle





Artwork, printed the artwork on vinyl. The results are great!









Painted the aluminum profiles matt black.



The three service buttons for start, pause and stop are placed





... and attached the aluminum strip behind this bar for securing the plexiglass.







Placed. The control panel is now fixed right away.







The screws also have a black layer of lacquer





Black caps placed on the screws that hold the monitor in place





Insert coin sticker has found its place





The nameplate:



The bezel for the monitor.





Fixing the marquee in place









The lighting looks very nice!







Unfortunately i can not play at this moment, the computer was over 80 degrees making it dropped out after a minute or 5. By placing 2 large 12cm fans on the back plate with the necessary slots where the hot air can escape, i hope to tackle this problem.







Top left i made a small opening for the ATX power supply so that the heat can be lost directly to the outside.





The power supply that was made in the cabinet made a huge noise. I have received a new Antec power supply for this project. This psu had a lot of connections and power exactly on the wrong side. So i made a modification again:







Testing it out:









The new PSU:





Ready for paint!

















With 2 fans on the back of the cabinet the PC remains at an acceptable temperature. See the end result here:



























Short movie:


Hope you like it guys!

[emphatic]

Very nice machine.

[n3wt0n]

This looks really good. Great execution.

[johnrt]

Great work! But I see that this happened to yours also:


I had to redo the paintjob on mine because of this. We have probably used the wrong filler.

[arno]

Thanks Johncrt. This problem is indeed caused by the wrong filler

[abispac]