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| yotsuya:
--- Quote from: PL1 on August 28, 2014, 04:30:47 pm ---Ratchet crimpers FTW. --- End quote --- I use ratchets for Molex (thanks, Neph!), but not QDs. However, if conked out on me, I'd look at a ratcheting one for QDs. And yeah, wires from a cheap JAMMA harness is my favorite method, too. |
| Vigo:
Paying a little extra for a good stripper is worth it, too. The cheap ones you end up sitting there having to yank on your wire forever trying to get it off. You get some classy strippers that do a more thorough job and they will pull your wire clean off for you. Well worth the money. |
| Generic Eric:
--- Quote from: Vigo on August 28, 2014, 04:56:03 pm ---Paying a little extra for a good stripper is worth it, too. The cheap ones you end up sitting there having to yank on your wire forever trying to get it off. You get some classy strippers that do a more thorough job and they will pull your wire clean off for you. Well worth the money. --- End quote --- I feel like having a cigarette after that. |
| dkersten:
This is what I have been using now for about 24 years. I use this for crimping anything from red to yellow insulated crimps (22-10 ga), and it can go a little smaller too although you don't see insulated crimps below 22 ga that often. This would be for the QD, butt connectors, crimp caps, bullet type QD's, spades, forks, etc. I bet my pair of T&B crimpers has seen well over 200,000 crimps, but then I used to do that 100s of times a day. http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-WT111M-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0018LD2PU/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1409260759&sr=1-5 For "OEM" style crimps (the kind that crimp both the wire and the insulation and then you slide the insulator over it all), I use this type: http://www.amazon.com/Barrel-Terminal-Crimping-O-E-M-Terminals/dp/B0040CZ1F8 I use ratcheting for coax and compression crimping, and I have a ratcheting now for the 2.54mm DuPont style pins, but I don't like the one I got, the teeth for it are not defined enough and it just doesn't work well. For stripping, the type shown above works well, and if you want something a little easier to use, something like this works surprisingly well, although they don't hold up well over time: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-RI-01908-Automatic-Wire-Stripper/dp/B000KT791Y/ref=sr_1_40?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1409260837&sr=1-40&keywords=wire+stripper Honestly, I have just used the cutter at the end of my T&B crimper to strip wires pretty much all the time.. Even 15 years after I stopped doing it daily, I still have the callouses on my fingers from it.. lol. As for soldering, not everyone knows how to do it properly and you can get a worse connection than a crimp pretty easily. Solder is not a great conductor by itself, so having good contact between the wire and the terminal before you apply solder is key. Also, making sure you don't move the wire before the solder solidifies is very important because you can make a bad connection even worse and also end up with a cold solder joint that can break off very easily. |
| frynturn:
Thank you all for the replies. The problem turned out to be a loose wire at terminal #4. It was just barely loose and giving it a good wiggle still didn't really show it as being loose (however the multimeter was saying otherwise). I guess the physical act of pushing the connector on to something must have been enough to push the wire against the connector to make a circuit. Also might explain why when I first tested with the multimeter it was fine as the probes probably did enough to press the wire against the terminal. I will definitely be looking into a ratcheting crimper to do the wiring in my final build but the store bought wiring has done enough to let me test everything first :) Happy Building. |
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