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ddr/dance pads with leds and microswitch - how to wire all that !
hycday:
Thanks pbj for your answer.
Yes I know how the microswitch work. I think I use the NO position (and COM of course) for the buttons on my bartop.
However, in this case, I wont use the buttons, just the microswitchs. So no leds in the pushbuttons.
If I want to use 12v leds, (each arrow has four 20cm bands connected in square, and I also want 2 other buttons, so 6 in total, making a total of 4.8m of leds stripes), is my drawing ok (assuming the drawing is only for 2 arrows) ? In this case I would need resistor or is everything automatically controlled by the power supply ?
also, how to add the usb gamepad wiring to my schema ? I don't get if I should connect the link to the usb gamepad at the NC position as well, or it will get the 12v and burn (as it should be a usb one, so max 5v)
(I will try to do a better drawing in about an hour)
NickG:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,48020.msg465790.html#msg465790 This is one of the simplest lit-when-pressed circuits, I use this circuit with a PSX gamepad hack for the controller and 12v LEDs. There are many other approaches, 7404 is another good simple one. I have used an assortment of power for the led's, all worked; "Wall-wart", ATX computer psu 12V, 9v battery (when I had incandescent bulbs, before I got the LED's) I am now using a voltage step-up module powered from the Playstation2 controller connection for my 12V; this uses Playstation 2 controller power when connected to Playstation2, and the PC power supply via my Parallel Port to PS2 controller connector when connected to the PC. (This is for a Pop'n Music controller but the operation is about the same, I have TX2000 for the DDR)
hycday:
Thanks for the schematic NickG. Could you explain the purpose of the diode ?
Also, why is it written 5v under the led ?
I would have thought it should be 12v, and the resistor decreased it to 5v for the encoder
I will now try to adapt this to my configuration and show you so that I can have advises if I am correct or not :)
(please excuse my bad english)
NickG:
The button grounds each encoder line through a diode (per button), rather than directly to common through the button. (use an encoder which has common grounded inputs.)
orientation of diode prevents reverse current to the encoder, so 5v, 9v,12v... encoder don't care because you protect it with properly rated diode (I am using 1N4001's) Yes, you will put your 12V where the 5v was in Trimoor's schematic.
When button is open, no current may flow through led. No current through encoder either. Also no reverse current from led to encoder because diode. When button is pressed. led circuit finds ground. Encoder circuit finds ground.
hycday:
so the encoder can be connected to usb on the other side, and the diode (1N4001 are said to be blockage voltage from 50 to 1000 volts, how is that the good one ? I thought I would need a diode blocking for 12v, so more from 0 to 50v ?) will prevent to current going to it, while still allowing the encoder to go to ground ?
if I am right, then I understand better, however I dont get the purpose of the resistor then. at first I thought it was to decrease the 12v to 5v, but then I realised that the encoder is in usb and thus wont need the 5v.
so whats the resistor for and how to choose it ?
edit : oh and also, I would need to separate the wires of the led stripes so that the ground are separated and connected all together, before going to the switches?
and I thought I would need to connect the buttons to the ground on the usb gamepad, but now they are on the ground of the 12v power supply...
edit 2 : here is the schematic I did
the DDR pad would have 6 'clickable' pads : up/down/left/right/A/B and 2 real buttons for start and select
each led in the schematics is in fact composed of 4 bandes of 20cm of leds, each bands having 6 leds, so 24 leds per square (and 144 leds for the 4.8m of total leds per pad)
if this is correct, I need to know how to compute which resistor I need, as well as which diode I need