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[Solved] IEC module wiring logic

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PL1:


--- Quote from: hycday on August 06, 2014, 12:36:50 pm ---you did not answer the question about the fact of wiring 6 to 7, or is this done 'internally' like from 3 to 5 ?

--- End quote ---
The connections between 6 and 7 (resistor and lamp) are all inside the switch.


--- Quote from: hycday on August 06, 2014, 12:36:50 pm ---Therefore, I assume that continuity on my module is on 6 and 7 and not on 7 and 8 ? right ?

--- End quote ---
On your power inlet, the switch is installed backward compared to the pic I posted.

Change "6  7  8" on the picture to "8  7  6" and it will match the schematic.   :cheers:

The first two terminals that you touched in the video are 8 (red lead) and 7. (black lead)

I'm not sure if the higher-than-expected resistance (6.2 Ohms) is the result of damaged leads, a poor connection or something else.

Touch the leads together to see how much of that 6.2 Ohms is from the leads and how much is from the switch.

You want a low-resistance connection to avoid generating heat like this.



This is why you always want clean, corrosion-free, mechanically-solid and low-resistance (<2 ohms) power connections.


Scott
EDIT: Updated wiki again with further info and a link back to this thread so people can see the video of you doing the multimeter test.   :cheers:

yotsuya:

I got those same IEC connectors recently. I had been getting the ones with 4 pins on the rocker, and all was kosher, but this last batch of 3 I got had only 3 pins on the rocker. I noticed one pin is brass-colored, the other silver. Is it safe to assume the silver ones are for hot, and the brass one for neutral?

hycday:

yeahhh I had it right :D thanks to you !

ok, so now I have the logic, I need to have the correct and undamaged tool haha !

I tried it again, and :

- if I touch the red and black leads together, the screen still displays "1   ."
- if I put the point of the leads at the center of the terminals (8 and 7), the screen display "1.4" and stays fixed.

therefore I assume it is correct, no worries to have, this was just a quick and bad mesure I did in the video. right ?
(I bought this on ebay, from china, doesnt look high quality, but doesnt look ---smurfy--- either, just plastic)



@yotsuya : I would advise to test it as I did on PL1 suggestion, however, should you need to know, on my configuration, the bottom right one is brass-colored, all other are silver, and on the front face, the "I" (on) is on same side as the brass-colored one.

BadMouth:


--- Quote from: PL1 on August 06, 2014, 01:39:09 pm ---


This is why you always want clean, corrosion-free, mechanically-solid and low-resistance (<2 ohms) power connections.

--- End quote ---

I have had absolutely no issues or heat generated since replacing the IEC inlet and using a brand new 14 gauge cable.
It's my firm belief that the issue was caused by using an old PC power cable of unknown age and internal condition.
The connectors inside were probably either corroded or loose.

PL1:


--- Quote from: yotsuya on August 06, 2014, 01:44:17 pm ---I got those same IEC connectors recently. I had been getting the ones with 4 pins on the rocker, and all was kosher, but this last batch of 3 I got had only 3 pins on the rocker. I noticed one pin is brass-colored, the other silver. Is it safe to assume the silver ones are for hot, and the brass one for neutral?

--- End quote ---
I never assume anything when there are so many different switches that can be installed.

Just do the multimeter test like the video above to see if it's installed "6 7 8" or "8 7 6".   ;D
(Video shows the switch installed in the "8 7 6" direction)


Scott

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