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Space Base - A homebrew ICB/ZP

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blkdog7:

Wow, just wow! You did a great job on this so far. Can't wait to see it working!

SavannahLion:

You will be hard pressed to find a set of tubing of a specific material with the desired IDs without compromising.

I needed clear tubing so I attempted to get a set of tubes with the right ID. I could find one tube that matched, two if I wanted "good enough" but not three sizes without making compromises I didn't want to make. Worse, the plastic tubes I selected cracked under the slightest awkward pressure.  Straight flush cuts by hand isn't my idea of calming.

One compromise would be to find tubes of any material for the lining, mix and match materials as it were. Might have more luck finding tubes of the right ID than I did. I couldn't make that compromise myself.

I sound like X when I say this, but I have alternative ideas that might do the trick.

Le Chuck:


--- Quote from: SavannahLion on February 10, 2015, 11:38:18 pm ---You will be hard pressed to find a set of tubing of a specific material with the desired IDs without compromising.

I needed clear tubing so I attempted to get a set of tubes with the right ID. I could find one tube that matched, two if I wanted "good enough" but not three sizes without making compromises I didn't want to make. Worse, the plastic tubes I selected cracked under the slightest awkward pressure.  Straight flush cuts by hand isn't my idea of calming.

One compromise would be to find tubes of any material for the lining, mix and match materials as it were. Might have more luck finding tubes of the right ID than I did. I couldn't make that compromise myself.

I sound like X when I say this, but I have alternative ideas that might do the trick.

--- End quote ---

Actually I've already researched this and it's very easy since I don't have to worry about light transmission I can just use metals.
.64" ID non ferrous aluminum pipe for the score holes at ~$2/ft  That's aluminum only because I need to use the magnasphere switches in the score holes and don't want interference. 

tons of other IDs in steel to get me within a 1/1000th of an inch to what I require I don't know why I would bother to pipe the outholes tho since they are so much larger than the ball the chances of them sticking are slim; however, if I decided to I could get the whole board done for about $35 more - which is more cost than I'm currently willing to sink into those holes.  It would be a simple matter of updating the hole diameters on my g-code, using a cut wheel on my miter saw and a block stop to get them down to the right depth, and epoxying them into the slots. 

Rather than be all cloak and dagger you could just open up your thread again and actually start posting some pics and stuff in it about your ICB styled adventure.  I don't have the best ideas in town - that's why this thread is here, to help me get good solutions.  We might be able to help you do the same. 

SavannahLion:

I haven't posted much because there isn't much to show. I have more broken parts and pieces than anything worth photographing.

Edit: after a bit of consideration, i think you're probably right. I'll make a specific project announcement sometime in the next two weeks or so (however long it takes to get my docs in one place)

xefned:


Incredibly ambitious and super cool.   :applaud:

It looks like an improvement over the original thematically!!

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