Author Topic: Need help with a Galaxian/Galaga Cabinet restore! (Read 41748 times)

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #80 on:** August 06, 2014, 08:51:39 am »

I took the night off last night, but I plan on getting back to it tonight! I need to rewire the lines coming off of the AC Filter to use thicker wire, which I need to pick up from Home depot tonight. Also, I am going to do away with that terminal, as I am pretty sure that it doesn't do what I was told it does, and therefore can't be used for my project. I think I am just going to splice the wires together and just do it that way. I also might get a better multimeter, as the one that I was given is as about as user friendly as a rabid wolverine.

Spyridon · « **Reply #81 on:** August 06, 2014, 11:16:19 am »

Side art, Kick plate and control panel overlay are all available at www.thisoldgame.com

Malenko · « **Reply #82 on:** August 06, 2014, 11:24:49 am »

I have a Galaga kickplate art, like new. in fact I have 3 of them. If you decide to go with the better game and want the art, let me know.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #83 on:** August 06, 2014, 12:01:27 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on August 06, 2014, 11:16:19 am

Side art, Kick plate and control panel overlay are all available at www.thisoldgame.com

Sweet! That is a great price for the set too! I I can get the machine working, I will have to order a set of those to put on it!

Quote from: Malenko on August 06, 2014, 11:24:49 am

I have a Galaga kickplate art, like new. in fact I have 3 of them. If you decide to go with the better game and want the art, let me know.

I think that your advice in the beginning might have been the best route to have gone, but at this point, I am dedicated to restoring it. lol. I would love to have a Galaga machine, but I am going to go for a Galaxian on this one, provided the PCB I bought still works. If not, I am just going to gut the cabinet, and install a Jamma Kit with a built in Power supply, through a 60 in 1 in there, and mount a spare LCD monitor in it. I might end up sanding it, painting black, swapping out the marque and putting some custom graphics on it too, but that is a decision to be made after I try to restore it first.

Malenko · « **Reply #84 on:** August 06, 2014, 12:17:06 pm »

hind sight is always 20/20 , no worries

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #85 on:** August 06, 2014, 01:46:26 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on August 06, 2014, 12:17:06 pm

hind sight is always 20/20

Indeed!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #86 on:** August 06, 2014, 11:12:43 pm »

Okay! Everything is wired up, and I plugged it in, and voila!

It came on!

The Good news is that the tube powered on, but its a bit dim. The Lights came on, and look awesome behind that marque! The Game powered on, and its on free play at the title screen, with stars in the background.

The bad news is that the game doesn't respond to the buttons and joystick movement. I checked the plugs, and they look like they should be working quite well. Also, I am getting no sound. I tried switching the wires around at the speaker, thinking that I got them swapped around, but that didn't affect anything.

I could seriously use some input here fellas(or ladies if there are any around)!

Here is a pic of my rats nest!

Malenko · « **Reply #87 on:** August 07, 2014, 06:48:49 am »

I'd worry about the sound last. Check your pin out find the ground and the left and right. Get the ship moving then go from there.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #88 on:** August 07, 2014, 08:23:40 am »

Well, there is no ship, and all of the controls are definitely non-responsive. I will try to take a look at wires again though.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #89 on:** August 08, 2014, 08:54:07 am »

I didn't get a chance to work on this last night, but I should get back to it tonight! I am so amped to get this cabinet working!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #90 on:** August 08, 2014, 10:00:14 pm »

So I checked the pinouts, and everything is as it should be. Still, no response from any of the controls and all I get is black and white colors. I did figure out why I had no sound, the volume was turned all the way down on the board. I adjusted that and now I get loud and clear static. Am I using a bad pinout or is my board just bad?

Malenko · « **Reply #91 on:** August 08, 2014, 10:34:19 pm »

check your voltages

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #92 on:** August 08, 2014, 10:37:35 pm »

I checked those too, right where they come out of the power supply. I got 5 coming out of the 5 volts, and 13 coming out of the 12.

Malenko · « **Reply #93 on:** August 08, 2014, 10:41:41 pm »

check them at the board

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #94 on:** August 08, 2014, 11:37:26 pm »

Good idea!

So two of the 4 12v connections wasn't showing up at the board connection. I assumed that the adapter was splitting the two wires coming in to the 4 spots, and apparently it wasn't. I just ran two more wires from the power supply to the connector and I got some progress!

We have some color and some enemy movement now! Also we have the ship and a demo in attract mode! Opening the coin door, I found that the credit button works, but the controls are still non-responsive. I opened the control panel and tried to manually get it to work, but nothing happened. Any idea on what to check on them?

Oh, I also got sound! Still a lot of static, but there is sound too!

thk · « **Reply #95 on:** August 09, 2014, 08:21:37 pm »

Wow....you are way further than any progress I have made.

Its funny how you went the Galaxian route and I went Galaga. LOL

Keep up the good work.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #96 on:** August 09, 2014, 08:38:27 pm »

Thanks! I have had a lot of help, and I have done a lot of trial and error along the way.

I went the Galaxian route as I thought it sounded like a really cool idea to fully restore it. However, if I had it all to do over again, I would have just thrown a 60 in 1 in there and I would have it in my game room by now. Still, I am dedicated to trying to get this thing to work!

No progress today though, as it has been thunder storming here all day long.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #97 on:** August 11, 2014, 12:38:18 pm »

So is there anywhere to order quick disconnects small enough that will attach to the connector? I really don't want to have to remove the connector and try to solder on another 12 wires while it is attached to all the wiring in the cabinet.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #98 on:** August 12, 2014, 08:32:39 am »

One of my buddies at work told me about a local electronics store, so I stopped by there yesterday and found some quick disconnects that should work for me. They might be too wide to use side by side though, I will have to try them out tonight.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #99 on:** August 13, 2014, 11:03:40 am »

So last night, I got distracted by WOW, and didn't get to do anything on the cabinet. Tonight however, I will remove the adapter and just wire the connector directly to the power supply, and see if the board works or if I am just destined to get a 60 in 1.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #100 on:** August 13, 2014, 08:38:59 pm »

So, I checked the adapter, and using my multimeter, I was able to get the right power coming out of it. I also found out that the controls were dead as I had the Player 1 ground wired into Table mode and vice versa.

So now the game works, the controls work, and the coin mechs work, yet the credit switch doesn't. lol. I think that ground might need to go to something, but the coin mechs working will due for now. My big problem is that the entire screen is only displaying red. Anything to recommend checking on that?

Malenko · « **Reply #101 on:** August 13, 2014, 08:48:50 pm »

check the video wires RGB ground and sync. if you can see a stable picture that means ground and sync are probably ok. try jumping the red over to the blue connector and see if you only see blue, helps narrow down the possibilities.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #102 on:** August 13, 2014, 09:25:48 pm »

I adjusted the knobs on the monitor, but that only helped a little bit. I am not getting much of a picture on the lower half of the monitor.

I am still trying to get the left control working, as the ship won't respond to going left.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #103 on:** August 14, 2014, 02:15:58 pm »

So, where do I check on the monitor to see what model it is? I am assuming that it is an original monitor since the sticker is on there as well as the insert that goes between it and the bezel.

Malenko · « **Reply #104 on:** August 14, 2014, 02:17:17 pm »

the tube doesnt matter so much as the chassis.

when in doubt, post pix, especially of the labels, and we'll see what we can do

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #105 on:** August 14, 2014, 03:27:27 pm »

Well, I am at work right now, but I will try to take some better pics tonight. Here are some pics I took in the beginning of it though:

Malenko · « **Reply #106 on:** August 14, 2014, 03:30:15 pm »

i looked back at those, I need a pic from the "top" of the chassis. Any especially pix of any labels

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #107 on:** September 08, 2014, 08:25:39 pm »

Okay, tonight I have some time to work on this, so I will finally be getting back to it!

I will try to get a good look at the monitor and see if I can find any labels or identification numbers on it. I will also see what I can see on the control board for it.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #108 on:** September 08, 2014, 09:11:50 pm »

Looks like I have a Wells Gardner 19K4500

Here we are with the control panel, glass, and monitor bezel removed.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #109 on:** September 08, 2014, 09:25:58 pm »

I see a lot of places to get a cap kit for this thing, but I need to find somewhere that I can get the proper flyback and a discharge tool.

Malenko · « **Reply #110 on:** September 08, 2014, 09:28:52 pm »

discharge tool is a rubber handled flat head screw driver with a piece of wire connecting the metal part to the monitor chassis

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #111 on:** September 09, 2014, 08:56:18 am »

Well, I don't see anywhere that I can actually get a flyback replacement for it. It doesn't seem to be that common of a part, as all I can find for the monitor is the cap kits. Hopefully the flyback is fine, but I was wanting to get one to be on the safe side. Now whether I can get the board out to put a cap kit on it without removing the flyback is what I am wondering now.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #112 on:** September 09, 2014, 10:12:22 am »

So I just bought this to test out how the Arcade would work with a LCD monitor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221480387637

I figure for $9 shipped, it should be a good experiment.

MK3FAN · « **Reply #113 on:** September 09, 2014, 03:08:28 pm »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on September 09, 2014, 10:12:22 am

So I just bought this to test out how the Arcade would work with a LCD monitor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221480387637

I figure for $9 shipped, it should be a good experiment.

That does NOT convert the signal. Only the connection. You wasted $9. To REALLY convert the signal, you need this...

http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cga-ega-yuv-to-vga-arcade-hd-converter-pcb-gbs-8220-gbs-8220.html

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #114 on:** September 09, 2014, 03:13:15 pm »

Well, it wouldn't be the first $9 I wasted on this project.

So what will happen when I connect it and it doesn't convert the signal?

MK3FAN · « **Reply #115 on:** September 09, 2014, 06:24:17 pm »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on September 09, 2014, 03:13:15 pm

Well, it wouldn't be the first $9 I wasted on this project.

So what will happen when I connect it and it doesn't convert the signal?

Nothing. Only thing that board does is change the CGA connector to a VGA connector like if you are using a PC and trying to hook up an arcade monitor to it. That's all it's good for.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #116 on:** September 09, 2014, 07:06:38 pm »

Ahh, Gotcha.

How about this one then?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7HOFOO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=34HU8WCS5JPF7&coliid=I305UBFA4AXCZ2

A few bucks cheaper that the one you listed with free prime shipping!

MK3FAN · « **Reply #117 on:** September 09, 2014, 08:20:07 pm »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on September 09, 2014, 07:06:38 pm

Ahh, Gotcha.

How about this one then?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7HOFOO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=34HU8WCS5JPF7&coliid=I305UBFA4AXCZ2

A few bucks cheaper that the one you listed with free prime shipping!

That SHOULD work but it's probably got the outdated Firmware on it. That's why it's cheaper. The one from Jammaboards.com has the updated firmware that is more reliable than the original versions of the converter. If the converter has straight lines on the heat sink, it's the old version. If it has "spikes" like the one from Jammaboards, it's been updated. The newer firmware makes the converter compatible with more games and more reliable.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #118 on:** September 10, 2014, 09:25:23 am »

All right, well, I ordered one of the new ones with the spikes, and it should be here this weekend!

So what are the odds that the original Galaxian Overlay is on the control panel beneath the Galaga one? Any ideas on what I could use to remove the adhesive to see?

Malenko · « **Reply #119 on:** September 10, 2014, 09:28:54 am »

a heat gun.

easiest way to tell would be to take a button out and see if there is 2 layers of vinyl.


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