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Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
Malenko:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on June 18, 2014, 06:51:33 am --- *DO YOU HAVE A REAL LEAFSWITCH ARCADE BUTTON? JUST ASKING..
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--- Quote from: Malenko on June 17, 2014, 08:37:16 pm ---citation: I just swapped a buncha leafs in my bad dudes cab and also switched over my my 60 in 1 from cherries to leafs.
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I dont have a true-leaf to compare but I'll prolly order one and see if the difference is that great. The true-leafs apparently have 2.3mm of travel, looks somewhat adjustable, maybe you just have ham fingers?
yotsuya:
--- Quote from: jimmer on June 18, 2014, 07:04:04 am ---And.... The real Xiaou is back.
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:cheers:
RandyT:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on June 18, 2014, 06:51:33 am --- In Groovys version, I was accidentally causing the switch to activate with the smallest pressure of setting my fingers on it lightly. This isnt optimal for me at all. As I dont want to have to hold all of my digits up in the air that entire time Im playing. And if I press it down, even lightly, it always bottoms out. Theres not enough spring tension nor travel to stop this.
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That's because you don't have it adjusted correctly. If you want more tension, adjust the top leaf (with the holder off the button, of course) then set your gap with the lower one. If that's not enough to replicate the higher resistance of the particular "old school" buttons you are used to, remove the spring and give it a little stretch. "Old school" leaf buttons vary from being completely soft in actuation (Williams, etc.), even less than the CLASSX leaf setup when unadjusted, to very stiff (many after market arcade conversions). As the early variety are a two part setup, they are also more difficult to install, require shimming or routing of the panel's underside to get the distance between the actuator and switch "just right" and/or require different versions of the button for metal and wood panels.
What you also seem never to mention in your comparisons is that this long throw of the earlier varieties is almost entirely responsible for severe contact wear, and the need for much more frequent switch adjustments/cleaning/replacement. The longer the throw, the more deflection of the blades occurs, thereby stressing them more, and causing the contact points to slide against each other more aggressively.
The CLASSX button was designed to provide the performance and adjustability of the "old school" leaf switch buttons, while mitigating the issues which caused them to become extinct. As the overly long throw of those buttons was the root cause of those issues, replicating it was not desirable, nor is it necessary to provide nearly identical performance.
Xiaou2:
--- Quote from: Malenko on June 18, 2014, 07:35:03 am ---
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on June 18, 2014, 06:51:33 am --- *DO YOU HAVE A REAL LEAFSWITCH ARCADE BUTTON? JUST ASKING..
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--- Quote from: Malenko on June 17, 2014, 08:37:16 pm ---citation: I just swapped a buncha leafs in my bad dudes cab and also switched over my my 60 in 1 from cherries to leafs.
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I dont have a true-leaf to compare but I'll prolly order one and see if the difference is that great. The true-leafs apparently have 2.3mm of travel, looks somewhat adjustable, maybe you just have ham fingers?
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Swapped leafs to micros? Micros to leafs? Micros to those ---smurf-poo--- micro-leafs (small microswichs with a metal leaf end) ???
As for True leaf, I meant a Real old school 80s leaf button assembly. Not a knockoff. Not Randys Micro Leaf pro. (of which I was given a sample of.. ) and Not even a Pinball leaf... but a full on 80s leaf button, assembly, and its leaf switch.
The travel on the real arcade leafs, was already stated at 5.5mm travel. Of which you would never use the full travel.. as long as you know how they work (IE: Floating).
As for the Ham-Finger / Fist comment.. Nope. My frame is a thin 6ft 170lbs... thins wrists, avg. hands.
Also, because of my training with soft-style arts... I can be light as a feather when resting on something or someone, such as an ops arm.. so as to better read them. However, that takes effort.. and I do not have to worry about being 1/100th of an ounce too heavy.. to spell my doom. Where as Trueleaf pros are so sensitive you can barely look at them, without them activating. Yes, you can adjust them.... but that adjustment is very limited in scope, and doesn't match the way real arcade leafs feel, react, and operate.
Btw - I used to actually Hate leafswitches. As an arcade manager at a busy mall store... I was constantly bothered with older leafsprings that were bending too far due to their age and fatigue. As well as the difficulty in cleaning the contacts.. and the frequency they needed to be cleaned, in that kind of constant-use environment. I hold my head in shame, thinking about all the leafs I tossed into the garbage... as well as the butchery on certain cabinets that I swapped with Microswitches.
After learning the true nature of them, starting with a re-introduction to a dedicated Robotron with the correct Wico 8way leafs.. I started to understand why no other stick would do.. for this kind of game.. and that furthered when I got an Asteroids Deluxe, that has the original leaf buttons already on it. After learning how to 'Float' them, rather than fully depress them... I fell in Love in an instant. Finally making the realization that many had tried to knock into my stubborn head.. in the past.
Don't be a Stubborn Head.
Get some real "Arcade" Leaf controls.
yotsuya:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on June 18, 2014, 01:39:34 pm --- Don't be a Stubborn Head.
Get some real "Arcade" Leaf controls.
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