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Roller lint - Sanding issues (heat gun?)

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s_busby_uk:

So for the update you didn't know you wanted...

I ended up using a heat gun to remove most of the semi-gloss from the affected areas. It took me a while to work out the best method, so the early patches have a lot of smeared sections. Eventually I worked out the best way to remove semi-gloss with a heat gun is to more or less melt the paint onto the scraper as you push it slowly upward. Once the heat gun gets going you really don't need to spend that long heating the paint as it softens quite quickly and then the scraper slips right underneath it.

This didn't remove the primer though - which I wasn't too worried about because that would be easy enough to sand off - but I still had some gunky gloss bits left behind. So I used some chemical paint remover to get those bits off and then washed that off with water and a scrubber.

Obviously using water on MDF isn't ideal, so I ended up drying the wood shortly after with the heat gun again.

I can't say the whole process is ideal, but provided I can sand what's there down nicely enough so it's smooth enough to paint on I'll be happy.

Does anything think that I should be worried about the state of my MDF now tho? It's 18mm so quite thick. I'm hoping that as I was quick enough with the heat gun to dry it off after that it won't have suffered any deep damage from the water. Not sure how else I could've made sure the surface was free form the chemicals though...

Minwah:


--- Quote from: s_busby_uk on June 02, 2014, 06:53:09 am ---Does anything think that I should be worried about the state of my MDF now tho? It's 18mm so quite thick. I'm hoping that as I was quick enough with the heat gun to dry it off after that it won't have suffered any deep damage from the water. Not sure how else I could've made sure the surface was free form the chemicals though...

--- End quote ---

I would think you would see if there was a problem...ie the MDF would probably have swelled.

s_busby_uk:

Yeah I think it's fine - I've been sanding it and it's more or less back to the smooth sheen it had before I started. Phew!

jennifer:

      After letting it dry really good and its all cured out, Jennifer would spray some primer/sealer on that to get a nice protective surface and then a light sand (around the 400 grit) you can do this with your foam roller too, just make sure its compatible with your topcoat.... +1 on the thinner if your paints drying too fast, and IMO laminate blows, not only do you have T molding thickness to deal with, but it scratches and chips easily. 

s_busby_uk:


--- Quote from: jennifer on June 03, 2014, 10:47:23 am ---      After letting it dry really good and its all cured out, Jennifer would spray some primer/sealer on that to get a nice protective surface and then a light sand (around the 400 grit) you can do this with your foam roller too, just make sure its compatible with your topcoat.... +1 on the thinner if your paints drying too fast, and IMO laminate blows, not only do you have T molding thickness to deal with, but it scratches and chips easily.

--- End quote ---

Thanks for the advice Jennifer!

The paint stripping has so far been something of a mixed blessing as it's exposed some filled-in screws for a beam I needed to move to make more room for my control panel. I didn't take into consideration the hinge and it was all misaligned!

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