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| cj138:
After a little more investigating I am confident this is the yoke I got. I looked at the yoke cover (which has a reprinted star wars overlay like the one in the video) and noticed to gray stripes peeking out from the original sticker underneath, leading me to believe it is a Lock-On yoke. Also, in the video Sean mentions he replaced the Y axis pot via Ram Controls and if you look at the picture I posted above, the color difference in the red between the X and Y axis pot indicate the Y axis was replaced. I had not hooked the Y pot to the APAC because I knew the center wire had come loose, however, I re-soldered it and plugged it into the APAC. A test revealed the Y axis responding steadily although it needs to be calibrated. I am thinking I will replace the X pot and hopefully that should resolve my issues. Will the flippers.com pot do the job and is it a reasonable price? Thanks, Cj |
| lcmgadgets:
I've had my own struggles with a SW yoke, & was hoping I could help, but everything I might have suggested has already been posted. So instead I'll say good luck, keep posting, & welcome to the forum Cj! :cheers: |
| PL1:
If you're spending that much for a 320 degree pot, why not get this one from ArcadeFixIt? No filing required. :cheers: Scott |
| Xiaou2:
I dont think you need an expensive pot, for a home use controller. Ive replaced arcade pots with Radio Shack pots. They probably wont fail for 5yrs of home use play. If it was on location.. thats a whole different story. FYI - Star Wars actually auto-calibrates in-game. When you play your first game.. roll the controller around to its fullest travel points, at least two times. After that, the game should be calibrated, and will center the pointer in accordance with your yoke centering. Can you snap some other pictures of the assembly at different angles? Im curious to see the x-axis, behind the plate. As for a "Delay", there might be a controller response issue, if that sliding lever arm has gotten worn down. As the driving-pin pushes the level arm up... its contacting the top surface of the sliding arm... When you push in the other direction, the pin has to then hit the bottom surface of the sliding arm. The problem here.. is if there is too much gap space between the sliding arm and the driving pin. If the arms surface, and or the driving pin, has worn down... the gap becomes larger.. and do when you change directions... you have a moment of control when nothing seems to happen. You have to wait for the pin to travel through that empty space, before it finally hits the lever arm. To fix this, you may be able to have a machinist make you a new pin and or lever arm... or both. As a temporary fix, you might be able tighten up the gap by making a straight edge that can attach to the side of the lever arm.. by using some epoxy paste, and a piece of wood (popsicle stick), strip of metal, such as an aluminum ruler, or a strip of plastic. (Use a soft metal, because you dont want to wear down the driving pin any more) If the driving pin is shot (no longer round).. you might be able to affix it to a vise.. then sand it with a fixed based dremel or drill press. Once sanded a bit, ...possibly putting a sleeve-ring around the thing. (Or just adjusting the arm to fit the new, now 'smoothly round', diameter) This is the problem with lever arms, and why gears were the majority choice in arcade machines. Once fixed.. it should last a very long time for home use. Just clean and lubricate it every so often, to reduce premature wear. |
| Xiaou2:
Oh, also... If the yoke is turning nearly 90 degrees on the x axis.. its probably because theres a part(s) missing or sheared off. I can see from the picture, that inside the yoke there are two nuts on either side of the shaft, and on the rear of the unit... there is a center mounted nut. Im guessing those are where the rubber bumpers are supposed to be attached, much like the original SW yoke design. The diameter of all 3 bumpers plays a factor in the full travel. If they are the wrong diameter.. the yoke may have too much travel.. and 90 degrees seems like way too much travel for an arcade controller like this. The diameter should be something like 1" to 1.5". Take a gander at the specs of the original SW yoke.. as Im sure its very similar. edit: Noticed something thats pretty darn cool. It has an adjustable sliding spring centering part. Very unique, and a great option. When springs age.. they change in their tension... and that can lead to things getting off-center. By adding the slide plate, it allows you to keep using the spring, by just adjusting the lock down position. Otherwise, you would need to get a brand new set of torsion springs.. and replacing them, means a lot of time taking the unit apart... they can be a real bear to get installed. Later arcade devices would use a different method of centering. They often use an egg shaped shaft part.. and then use a lever with a bearing that rides on top of it.. That bar is under downward spring tension. As soon as you start to turn the wheel... the egg shape changes the diameter.. and causes the bearing to raise, and the tension thus increases. Even if the spring tension starts to fade, the system still works well.. and even has help from gravity to boot. |
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