JVL Power Pad

[STL_Tom]

I have a JVL Retro at home.  Talk about a rare bird, huh!

The power pad pcb does not work for the outside buttons.  Does anybody have a source for the phototransistors and diodes to repair the board?

Also,  the joystick microswitch button does not work by pushing on the PowerPad like it should.  The chrome powerpad button is sitting down on the chrome cover and not raised up at all to push on the button.  Is there a spring or some rubber part between the chrome powerpad button and the joystick assembly on the circuit board?

Any experience with repairing these boards?

Thanks.

[Sarmstrong60]

In the past I have had success in pulling the power pad cover ( screws are on the bottom of the Cover), disconecting the board and cleaning the board with a tooth brush and and rubbing alcohol. you will probally see a build up where a drink was split on the board. I also spray Deoxit contact cleaner on the joystickand move it thru its range of motion several times. blow off extra cleaner, clean cover and reassemble. Go to power pad test and check.
 Hope this works for you, its worked for me about 6 times now on different JVL Vortexs and Retros. Steve

[STL_Tom]

In the past I have had success in pulling the power pad cover ( screws are on the bottom of the Cover), disconecting the board and cleaning the board with a tooth brush and and rubbing alcohol. you will probally see a build up where a drink was split on the board. I also spray Deoxit contact cleaner on the joystickand move it thru its range of motion several times. blow off extra cleaner, clean cover and reassemble. Go to power pad test and check.
 Hope this works for you, its worked for me about 6 times now on different JVL Vortexs and Retros. Steve

I wish it were that straight forward.  The board is very clean.  Thanks, though.

[lilshawn]

the switching system used is very sensitive to outside influence. if a drink was indeed spilled, it will throw off the sensing circuit. (the difference between the sensor open and blocked is only a few tenths of a volt difference at only a few microamps.) also, painting the button "flaps" so they block more light when pressed helps too. they often bleed light through and around the flaps and the phototransistor picks it up still.

if you use a digital camera, you can view if the infrared LED's are indeed on, if not, check upstream for a small resistor and check if you have voltage there. you may have to take a soldering iron and reflow all the solder as sometimes surface mounted stuff get's cracked/bad solder joints.

[STL_Tom]

the switching system used is very sensitive to outside influence. if a drink was indeed spilled, it will throw off the sensing circuit. (the difference between the sensor open and blocked is only a few tenths of a volt difference at only a few microamps.) also, painting the button "flaps" so they block more light when pressed helps too. they often bleed light through and around the flaps and the phototransistor picks it up still.

if you use a digital camera, you can view if the infrared LED's are indeed on, if not, check upstream for a small resistor and check if you have voltage there. you may have to take a soldering iron and reflow all the solder as sometimes surface mounted stuff get's cracked/bad solder joints.

I sent the pcb out for repair.  I will dive back into it if the repairman is unsuccessful.

I appreciate the advice.

[STL_Tom]

the switching system used is very sensitive to outside influence. if a drink was indeed spilled, it will throw off the sensing circuit. (the difference between the sensor open and blocked is only a few tenths of a volt difference at only a few microamps.) also, painting the button "flaps" so they block more light when pressed helps too. they often bleed light through and around the flaps and the phototransistor picks it up still.

if you use a digital camera, you can view if the infrared LED's are indeed on, if not, check upstream for a small resistor and check if you have voltage there. you may have to take a soldering iron and reflow all the solder as sometimes surface mounted stuff get's cracked/bad solder joints.

I sent the pcb out for repair.  I will dive back into it if the repairman is unsuccessful.

I appreciate the advice.

I got the PCB back for the power pad buttons and it is still not working.  The lights and the joystick work but not the IR switches.  I douched it with alcohol to clean it.  I am not seeing evidence using my camera that the IR emitters are working. 

Near as I can figure they are:
 SunLED devices
Part Number: XZTNI56W-1    type: 3.0x1.0mm INFRARED EMITTING DIODES
& Part Number: XZRNI56W-1 PHOTOTRANSISTORS

Any help here with getting these?  I do not have any contacts for electrical parts.   

[lilshawn]

test to see if you are getting voltage TO the LED before you consider changing them.

if no volts at LED move upstream to the dropper resistor.

THEN consider changing them. load up sun's website and get a datasheet for the LED. then use the data (mW wavelength etc.) to find a replacement on mouser.

likely it's going to be something like this: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/VSMB14940/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt82OzCyDsLFE2iBIk0I6aKgBaNLMgTs90%3d

[STL_Tom]

test to see if you are getting voltage TO the LED before you consider changing them.

if no volts at LED move upstream to the dropper resistor.

THEN consider changing them. load up sun's website and get a datasheet for the LED. then use the data (mW wavelength etc.) to find a replacement on mouser.

likely it's going to be something like this: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/VSMB14940/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt82OzCyDsLFE2iBIk0I6aKgBaNLMgTs90%3d

Thanks for the help lilshawn!

I do see voltage upstream of the photodiode.  I ordered the IR smd devices from Mouser just now & we'll see how it goes when they arrive in the mail.

[STL_Tom]

Well, dang.  Disappointing results - new diode emitters did not resurrect the old board.

I wonder what fails on this thing?  I understand all these particular pcbs die...   

[STL_Tom]

Well, dang.  Disappointing results - new diode emitters did not resurrect the old board.

I wonder what fails on this thing?  I understand all these particular pcbs die...   

I gave in and bought the $190 board from Suzo-Happ.

OUCH!  But, it works.