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| SgtSlaughter:
So the hardware I have is: U360 Joystick 11 - LEDWiz Electric Ice Pushbuttons with RGB-Drive II pushbutton Lighting module So I've been reading a lot of the forums for wiring up the LEDWiz, but I'm getting myself a little confused, and just want to confirm my thoughts before I blow something up. I've already read http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,87419.0.html which is what I'm going off. Here is what I've wired up so far: I want to have all 11 buttons to have full RGB capibility, but I don't mind pairing them up (as I know there is not enough outputs to do full RGB to each button). LEDWiz Questions: ANSWERED 1) If I'm using the red wire from the PC power supply molex connector, to connect to my black wires to a Terminal Block (which are daisy chained together) from the RGB-Drive LEDs (5V), do I need to use an inline fuse? ANSWERED 1a) If I do need an inline fuse, can I just use 1 that goes directly between the 5V Molex from the PC and a terminal block of my LEDs, or do I need do I have to an inline fuse for each RGB LED? ANSWERED 1b) If I need an inline fuse, what size would I need? I assume 660mA (if I need 1), or 60mA if I need one for each LED?, but if I can't find the exact size should I round larger, or round down? ANSWERED 2) Can I use the black wire from the PC Molex connector to plug into the LEDWiz Ground? ANSWERED 3) Do I need to use the Bank Voltage Select terminals on the LEDWiz (assuming that I'm getting my 5V power from the PC Molex connector)? ANSWERED 3a) If so, is it a problem when I have an RGB LED going across both banks (ie outputs 7,8,9)? Joystick Questions: ANSWERED 1) For the Quick connects (or disconnects), I haven't used these before, do you just stick the wire in and crimp them? I've tried this and it doesn't seem to make a very tight fitting (either that or I don't have the correct tool), or do you take the insert out, crimp & solder? |
| SgtSlaughter:
I removed some questions that I was able to answer myself... don't feel intimidated guys, you don't have to have all the answers, any will help! heh. |
| roknrol:
I'll take a stab at your QDC question: Stranded wire (not solid) is going to work the best. Most folks seem to use 18-22 ga. for their wire-up jobs. Just strip the wire 1/8", insert it, and use a crimper to complete the connection. Mind you, a ratcheting crimper is highly recommended. I got mine for ... mmm ... $6 at Harbor Freight. |
| SgtSlaughter:
Ahh good to know. I figured that may have been the case. Thanks for the info! |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: SgtSlaughter on January 06, 2014, 11:22:45 am ---1a) If I do need an inline fuse, can I just use 1 that goes directly between the 5V Molex from the PC and a terminal block of my LEDs, or do I need do I have to an inline fuse for each RGB LED? --- End quote --- One fuse on the 5v line that is distributed to the LED's is enough. --- Quote ---1b) If I need an inline fuse, what size would I need? I assume 660mA (if I need 1), or 60mA if I need one for each LED?, but if I can't find the exact size should I round larger, or round down? --- End quote --- Ultimately, that is up to you to decide. But you shouldn't need more than 1 amp. --- Quote ---2) Can I use the black wire from the PC Molex connector to plug into the LEDWiz Ground? --- End quote --- Yes. --- Quote ---3) Do I need to use the Bank Voltage Select terminals on the LEDWiz (assuming that I'm getting my 5V power from the PC Molex connector)? --- End quote --- I would. It's a small extra step and worth doing. --- Quote ---3a) If so, is it a problem when I have an RGB LED going across both banks (ie outputs 7,8,9)? --- End quote --- No. If the voltage is the same for the rest of that bank, connect 5v to that Bank Voltage Select terminal as well. |
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