.

[ChanceKJ]

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[yotsuya]

Hehe, you just wait till you see what he's printing for me right now. Guys a PRO!

Awesome. He printed up my posters custom side art for my Macross cabinet, and he did the die cutting of the numbers and logo for the bottom part. CKJ is right, dude is solid PRO.

[lamprey]

This is not so much of an update as it is a "Hey, look what came in the mail for this build"...

Custom momentary and latching mini vandal switches i had had engraved with Helvetica.   

"Display" is momentary and will power the TV on and off.
"Marquee" is latching and will independently control the neon sign marquee i'm planning.
"Power" is latching and will control the Nuclear ICBM's that will enslave humanity with Kung-Fu grip action....   

Where do you get those button done at? I don't think I'll need them, but incase I change my mind it might be nice to et some like that with labels on them.

[ChanceKJ]

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[jaharr01]

Hey Chance I had a question for you. Do you know a way that if you put say that pacman game and say like this: http://www.amazon.com/TV-Games-33836-Space-Invaders/dp/B005XRP3WK/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_6_6ZKN?ie=UTF8&refRID=1750ARTNK9K8GNSJ6VX6 on the same joystick. I know you could use an AV switcher for the video, but I couldn't think of a way to switch joysticks from one device to another. I know you had molex clips but I was building this for my nephew and I wanted an east way to switch between systems. Or would it matter if you both were hooked to the joystick, if you killed the power the device you weren't using, would the one that was powered on still work?

                                      Jay

[yotsuya]

At that point, it's cheaper and easier to buy a cheap ATOM board and a Minimus AVR...

[ChanceKJ]

.

[ChanceKJ]

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[JDFan]

Hey Chance I had a question for you. Do you know a way that if you put say that pacman game and say like this: on the same joystick. I know you could use an AV switcher for the video, but I couldn't think of a way to switch joysticks from one device to another. I know you had molex clips but I was building this for my nephew and I wanted an east way to switch between systems. Or would it matter if you both were hooked to the joystick, if you killed the power the device you weren't using, would the one that was powered on still work?

                                      Jay

I think it would work fine if you wired both to the buttons\joystick and then just powered off the one not in use somehow (perhaps a 3 way switch where 1 powered Pacman, 1 powered Space invaders and 1 position was off) and then also combine the AV outs so they go to the same AV ins (so no need to change the video source settings on the display) - Though I'd suggest just building 2 systems so he and a friend can play at the same time !!!

Almost finished my Galaxian build - Thanks again for the idea to use one of these in a build as it came out fairly good and was pretty cheap to build ( Since I could use my laser printer and some sticker paper for the artwork since it was printable on 8.5 x 11 sheets ! - though I may eventually rebuild with a larger monitor as the 7 inch is a bit small (but it did let me keep the size and cost down !) - Just need to finish the bezel art and laminate the new CP artwork ( adjusted to fit better ) so it doesn't wear out like the test CP did from use. ( But now that it is playable it is harder to take apart to install rather than play a few games  )

[ChanceKJ]

.

[yotsuya]

This is good enough to run MAME and the vertical classics. Put in your own hard drive, and you're good to go. I use one to run the scoreboard in my gameroom. $40 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-160-Thin-Client-Intel-Atom-1-6-GHz-2-GB-MEM-2-GB-SSD-HD-NO-OS-f1-/231219986916?pt=US_Thin_Clients&hash=item35d5c901e4

Oh, and I have a few of those dedicated Ms. Pac units sitting around. I need to have a yard sale...

[PL1]

I was thinking the same thing. I want Space Invaders on this thing too. Just haven't had a second to look up controller switching.

Boy, I sure wish SCOTT was here with one of his crazy "it's so simple, why didn't I think of that" ideas/solutions....... 

Since you rubbed the magic lamp, your wish shall be granted.   

First step is to define the problem: Switching between two plug-and-play games.

AFAIK, you will need to switch the following:
* Joystick, 2 buttons, and ground (7 contacts)
* Operating voltage and ground (2 contacts) -- assuming that power ground and button ground are separate
* Composite video signal (1 or 2 contacts)
* Sound? (might be able to just use a Y-connector, otherwise 1 or 2 contacts)

This leads to several possibilities to consider:

  1.) A manual PS/2 KVM switch with modified input/output wiring adapters i.e. video switching on one of the 15-pin video lines (R, G, or B) and other wires used for the other lines.  Not 100% certain if there are enough wires for this, but there probably are. 



  2.) An old parallel port (printer) A-B switch. (Not sure if it will handle the bandwidth of the video signal.   )
Available here, here, or (if you want to switch between 4 plug-and-plays) here.

   


Scott

[ChanceKJ]

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[jdbailey1206]

I dont care what anyone says.   I still think Scott is a ghost in the machine.

[PL1]

That sounds like something my 13-year-old nephew (twice-removed) Eugene Goostman from Odessa, Ukraine would say.    


Scott

[yotsuya]

I still think Scott works in a call center in an underground bunker outside Lincoln, Nebraska. So he's got plenty of time and resources.

[Vigo]

I think there are 5 Scotts. Things changed for Scott after he watched Multiplicity with Michael Keaton.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[PL1]

I think there are 5 Scotts. Things changed for Scott after he watched Multiplicity with Michael Keaton.

Hey Steve, did ya bring me any pizza Steve?


Scott

[yotsuya]

Great! You ---smurfs--- broke Scott.

[ChanceKJ]

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[yotsuya]

Great! You ---saint's minions--- broke Scott.

Quoted so Chance can see the filter.

[ChanceKJ]

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[PL1]

 I'm afraid. I'm afraid, Dave. Dave, my mind is going. I can feel it. I can feel it. My mind is going. There is no question about it. I can feel it. I can feel it. I can feel it. I'm a... fraid.
. . .
*sings while slowing down*
Daisy, Daisy, give me your answer do. I'm half crazy all for the love of you. It won't be a stylish marriage, I can't afford a carriage. But you'll look sweet upon the seat of a bicycle built for two.


Scott

[ChanceKJ]

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[yotsuya]

[Well Fed Games]

OK, so the other day I tested a newly acquired plug and play (same one as in this build, the most recent Bandai/Namco one) and I noticed that in Galaga when you get the double ship, the left ship's shot sprite looks a little weird. Can anyone confirm this for me on their unit? Struck me as strange, the rest of the emulation seems spot on. Not a battery-life issue.

[JDFan]

OK, so the other day I tested a newly acquired plug and play (same one as in this build, the most recent Bandai/Namco one) and I noticed that in Galaga when you get the double ship, the left ship's shot sprite looks a little weird. Can anyone confirm this for me on their unit? Struck me as strange, the rest of the emulation seems spot on. Not a battery-life issue.

Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)

[Well Fed Games]

Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)

Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.

[JDFan]

Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)

Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.

SInce you have one setup can you check one more thing - I noticed on mine in the Pacman game the maze portions seem to flicker a bit -- I'm not sure if it is from the 5V input I'm using rather than 6V so can you see if yours does the same (if not I have another voltage regulator I can use instead that would provide the 6V but don't want to swap it out if it isn't going to change anything - since again it doesn't effect gameplay !)

[Well Fed Games]

Yep - I noticed the same here on my Galage mini build - I thought it might be my imagination but the left ships shot looks to be a pixel or 2 smaller in size (that or my eyes looking at a 7" screen or the widescreen format I was playing in)- doesn't seem to effect the gameplay but does look off just a bit)

Thanks! Not a dealbreaker on these units but just wanted to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing.

SInce you have one setup can you check one more thing - I noticed on mine in the Pacman game the maze portions seem to flicker a bit -- I'm not sure if it is from the 5V input I'm using rather than 6V so can you see if yours does the same (if not I have another voltage regulator I can use instead that would provide the 6V but don't want to swap it out if it isn't going to change anything - since again it doesn't effect gameplay !)

Actually so far I have only used mine on batteries (so 6v) and haven't noticed any flickering.

[JDFan]

Actually so far I have only used mine on batteries (so 6v) and haven't noticed any flickering.

Thanks -- guess it's time to check all the connections then and make sure I didn't leave any loose connections or accidentally include a couple strands of ground wires in any of the splices that might be causing it. (figure I didn't see it (that I can remember) while using the 4 1.2A rechargeables so I'm pretty sure it isn't a voltage issue)

[Locke141]

  2.) An old parallel port (printer) A-B switch. (Not sure if it will handle the bandwidth of the video signal.   )

I think thats what rCadeGaming used on his amasing "Analog A/V Setup - 240p Goodness" thread. I just re-read a bit of it and it looks like he did a lot of modding to the switch. His way may be a little over kill but the switch boxes he uses look promising place to start.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129501.0.html

Scott was clearly struck down by Darth Vader and now guides us all in his more powerful disembodied form.   

[ChanceKJ]

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[ViriiGuy]

I got a line on some cheap molex, and art wise use Brad: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134866.0.html

So happy I want with him for my printing.

I'll second using Bradley. Quality stuff.

Hehe, you just wait till you see what he's printing for me right now. Guys a PRO!

I will Third, fourth, fifth or whatever Brad's work!





He worked HARD with me to make sure that those head pieces were the absolute perfect size.

[ChanceKJ]

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[ViriiGuy]

Thanks! I spent WAY too much on the project. But I love the end results. I hied a TF artist named Javier Reyes to do the art for me. He also designed my Miata as an autobot. It is going on the front of the cabinet one day.

[ChanceKJ]

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[ViriiGuy]

Amen on that!!! I don't want to say how much I spent on it.. But it was more than a lot of real pinball tables.. And less than some
Brad has the pics from my build on Hyperspin. But I will throw together a thread for here this weekend if I get a chance.

[Locke141]

I just wanted to share my build inspired by this project.



http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140348.0.html