Main > Main Forum

Atari Yolk 14 tooth gear Repoductions

Pages: << < (8/15) > >>

Generic Eric:


--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on January 18, 2014, 08:21:24 pm ---
 If your unwilling to make quality parts... why not just buy out the stock that was made from David?


--- End quote ---

I'mma let you finish, but I thought we were all going on the assumption that was *odiferious horse puckey* and such.  As in "Did anyone see those parts?"

furthermore, I like what I'm seeing here.  What I'd like to know is how much this PLA robo plastic repops are gonna cost?  Cheaper than McMaster? Sign me up.

Buick455:


--- Quote from: RandyT on January 18, 2014, 03:02:04 pm ---
I'm also not trying to make PLA Yoda busts the size of a dime :)

--- End quote ---

I'm guilty of printing a few yoda and about 10 pink panther ladies when I was dialing the machine in. Your "FORD" analogy is spot on btw  :lol The biggest fault in my machine is the fact that its got way to much wobble, even with my added bracing.

Not that my 2cents is going to sway anybody here but I would like to say that the printed ABS gears that drive my extruder have been working through 5, 1 kilo rolls of filament over a period of 2 years. Not that this is very scientific, but after I had the machine built and running I used a black marker to color some of the surfaces that meet (to watch for wear) and I can report that they are in great shape today. There is some marker missing but its more like break-in then wear..

Is an arcade yoke more abusive to printed gears then an extruder is? prolly.
Are printed ABS gears strong? from what I can tell from mine, yes.
Strong as steel or injection molded? no.
Will they wear out? maybe one day, but not anytime soon.

Some more info on the printed gears and how they are used in a printer.. in case anyone cares, lol
The heated nozzle has a molten chamber that needs to have an exact amount of filament forced into it (by the gears and stepper) to extrude a proper amount of hot plastic to the build plate. When dialing in your extruder you (for example) tell the machine to extrude 10mm (length) of filament then measure with a caliper how much has been extruded. If its not 10mm you make come calcs and then try again. When I do this "dialing in" I check it, then quadruple check a few more times (its really a PITA to do it so its got to be right) every time I'm within 0.04mm. What does this mean? If the machine that printed the gears was dialed in and the print didnt go to ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- they should be pretty damn accurate.

Xiaou2:

 I think it should be Obvious, that a slow moving gear with constant motion speed..  is not the same thing as racking the gears at high speeds forwards and then reverse... constantly.  (which is what happen in arcade controls)

 The amount of energy and force, in the acceleration and directional changes, effects the tooth.  If theres too much slop in the tooth.. due to poor accuracy,  it can make high speed teeth collisions just that more likely to crack a tooth.  Also, slop can cause controller lag... thus losing your in-game accuracy.

 If Randy charged $20 and they lasted 2 yrs... would that be acceptable?   You might be able to find a gear already out there for that amount, that will last 30 yrs.   Or even if you had to fork over $30 for that gear.. but never had to buy it ever again.. it would still be cheaper in the long term.

 Its a temporary $5 part at best, IMO.


RandyT:

I'm not going to even bother going over Steve's posts and countering point by point.  I'm fresh out of troll food, and it's not much of a challenge.  But I will say that the flaw I identified in the original is corrected in my gear-only design to the extent possible, working within the confines of the original hub.  Maybe in 20+ years, it will snap like the original did.  But probably not.  I'll certainly be too old, and too busy sitting on a park bench feeding the pigeons to care (hell, I might not even know my own name by then.)

But I will add one more thing; anyone who thinks I spent 10 hours of what little free time I have on this because I think "I'mma gunna gets rich offa suckerz by selling "junk" gears for $5 each (or two for $8) to the tiny group of folks who need them"" should probably seek some professional assistance.  I did it because there seemed to be some interest in me giving it a go, and cultivating a reliable source.  For that, you all have my humblest apologies, and my sincere promise to never do something so egregiously awful ever again.  34k, you should probably remove that perfectly functioning gear from your yoke because it makes Steve sad, and I'm sure you don't want that on your conscience.

(ok, "sincere" was too strong a word :) )


lilshawn:

TL;DR.

the gear doesn't spin at 10000 RPM's it's doing 3/4 of a turn for christs sake. as long as things are properly meshed together, it's a pretty foolproof setup.

the original gears mode of failure was likely because:

a: the setscrew is over tightened causing a microfracture which got bigger with age.

2: the plastic underwent some kind of molecular change due to the grease used or possibly chemicals used in the plastic manufacturing...and became brittle with age.

or D: the stop of the main control does not coincide (or is maladjusted) with the pot's limit of travel causing stress when the pot reaches the end of travel slightly before the control does.

now, i'm no scientist, but me thinks if any of the above could be easily rectified.

Pages: << < (8/15) > >>

Go to full version