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| Slippyblade:
Ah, I don't think you understood the reference to the gamepads. What you do is crack them open and use the guts *AS* the encoder. You solder the connections of your joysticks and buttons to the pads on the gamepad board. The gamepad then connects to your computer via USB. If you do a search on this forum for "gamepad hack" you will get threads with full instructions and pics. It's very easy to do as long as you have a steady soldering hand. |
| JDFan:
For a single player setup something like I used for my bartop build would work fine -- and it'll run less than your budget. For the encoder I went with a cheap No delay Encoder for $11 shipped ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/251241729308 )- it is perfect for a 1 player setup with 16 inputs and includes the wiring (though it is kind of short) so works well for a single joystick and 8 buttons leaving 4 admin buttons or what I did was use 2 joysticks (for Robotron and Smash TV etc.) and 6 buttons then shared the 4 inputs for the second joystick with buttons 3-6 (since you don't use the 2nd joy and more than 2 buttons for any game and if using the 3-6 buttons you aren't using the 2nd joystick so having them share the 4 inputs works fine and leaves enough inputs for 6 admin buttons. For the Joysticks and buttons I went with a 2 joystick 14 button set on Ebay for $30 + $10 shipping and had 2 Happ competition joys and 14 happ buttons. Like this set ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAPP-COMPETITION-8-WAY-JOYSTICKS-14-BUTTONS-COMBO-GREAT-FOR-MAME-FIGHTING-/380658941336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a10a7d98 ) SO for the entire CP hardware setup was about $50 then used an old computer I had in a closet and an old 15" monitor. Printed the artwork on photostock paper at Office Depot for around $6-$10 (kept the width at less than 17" So could have it printed cheaply on 11x17 inch paper) and the side art was printed on my laser printer using some sticker paper and the only other parts I had to purchase was the MDF and some paint and screws etc. so all together spent less than $100. Here's a pic of the bartop : (also based the side view on the EVO X-arcade with some adjustments) |
| Generic Eric:
Check out the wiki @ http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/ Several people are working on transferring content from the old wiki to the new wiki, but don't let that distract you. The wiki should answer many of your questions, there are even builder guides in there as well as examples. Beyond this, here is my initial advice. Configure your computer first. Learn about setting up MAME first. I think its a good choice to set up the control panel first. That is the first thing I would go back in change given the chance. Random advice: Drill pilot holes. Measure twice cut once. Buy good tools. A hole saw is better than a spade bit. I am told a forstner bit is better than both for drilling button and joystick holes. Go to slagcoin for layouts. A kade controller and several others will set you back around $29. If you can get a decent solder iron for $15, solder and flux for another $5 if your lucky. Add a $5 gamepad and you are close to that same $29 for shipping. Either way, you'll want a decent wire stripper. The only easier way is if you buy an encoder with precut wires. Groovy Game Gear and Paradise Arcade shop have those. Others may as well. Getting a part list will vary by region/state and lumberyard. Perhaps one day you can drive the kids to home depot and rummage through the lumber section and look at their lumber. Menards had 4x4 sheets and 2x2 sheets. Vigo had a vigolix project where he made a mini from a 4x4 sheet. It might be worth checking out. You are gonna need some wood to build that box anyway. |
| ark_ader:
Get an X arcade. Easy to hide and bring out. At the end of the day you will have to determine how many times you will be playing a game and is it worth the mess. 9/10 times its once a week and no room for mess. That is why these portable sticks are so popular. |
| lilshawn:
http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-joysticks-and-game-controllers/product/x-arcade-solo-joystick/ :dunno |
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