Parts for M200 MPU board

[Sarver Systems]

I've got a Bally M-200 board out of a Meteor pinball with the typical acid damage.

Does anyone know of a parts list for this board?
Or at least a schematic?

Google was no help.
Pinwiki was no help.
ipdb.org was no help.

[Sarver Systems]

I was able to locate a replacement kit that includes all of the needed parts.

[ed12]

Sarver Systems
the reason u were having problems
is because 99%  of bally boards use a >as<-#######

ed

[Sarver Systems]

I was searching under the wrong terms?

I tried M-200, MPU200, and then again with Bally in the front.

[pbj]

Stern, not Bally. 

 

[ed12]

pbj
yup
correct

ed

[pbj]

And here's your repair kit:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY35-BA-KIT

And here's my advice - brace yourself financially for buying a replacement. 

 

[Sarver Systems]

That's the one I bought. Bought 2 of em since there is another pin in the collection that uses the same board. I'll be repairing it as well I assume.

I'll also be performing a remote battery mod on the board as well.

[ed12]

i trust u ordered the ram also ?
if not?. why u are doing is for not..
also.there is a timming chip >nla< that goes to crap
why u did not just get  unversial replacment micro boards ? is beside me...??
u will have more time and work into repairing them 20+ year old boards then the replacements are worth..i mean do the math
your time is worth xxxx or x the replacement is worth xx

ed

[smartbomb2084]

Here is an IPDB link to the METEOR manual with a schematic for the MPU 200 albeit a little hard to read.

You guys cave in too easy... These Classic STERN and BALLY MPUs are the easiest to fix in all of pinball..

You don't learn much about board repair caving into the aftermarket crowd.

Glad to see you want to give it a shot and hopefully learn something....

A lot of people would rather sit on their backsides and post to forums than do any REAL work.


http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1580/Stern_1979_Meteor_Manual.pdf

[ed12]

smartbomb2084
Full Member

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Posts: 583
Resident Parts Changer

 Re: Parts for M200 MPU board
« Reply #10 on: Today at 08:41:07 am »QuoteHere is an IPDB link to the METEOR manual with a schematic for the MPU 200 albeit a little hard to read.

You guys cave in too easy... These Classic STERN and BALLY MPUs are the easiest to fix in all of pinball..

You don't learn much about board repair caving into the aftermarket crowd.

Glad to see you want to give it a shot and hopefully learn something....

A lot of people would rather sit on their backsides and post to forums than do any REAL work.

that is the most offince comment i have ever heard u say to date
if u care anything about your labour ? /time?/rel-factor?
the reality is replace the board with new get game out door
repair board at latter date
400 machines is not a run of the mill 1/2/3 off..where u get time..
not to metiton the parts,and shop eq.to do the proper repair work..
i ofen tell the coustmer here is a replacment board brand new
trade in price xxxx..then when things clam down
i will sit and do the nessary repairs,then run it on my test jig
mark it as such..carry on

ed

[Sarver Systems]

Thanks for the helpful advice.

I did contemplate purchasing a new board as well.

the parts are cheap enough, and with my 20+ years soldering experience, I am confident I can get it working.

I just couldn't read the numbers on the caps, and a few od the diodes are destroyed.

I'll post some pics as I repair the board.

[ed12]

yes by all means if u have the time
then that is what i do..on my down time
i go through my back-ups..repair as i go..
this gives me stock
last thing u want on a busy friday night..is to have a pinball machine down
so i keep both new and old in stock
my coustmers know..if it is an old board
i will not even try to repair it then,just slap in a unverisal
bill them..collect..exchange board,repair at later date >down-time<
but with :us: doing lcd/plasma board level repair
we find it better just to keep stock..

btw watch the reset chip
it is a bugger in the ballys as-xxx-xxx mpus

ed

[smartbomb2084]

I am looking forward to your repair thread...eagerly.

At least you think us worthy enough to share your work without your surrogate mother holding your hand... unlike some people around here.

And Ed....dude... you need to relax...everyone here that disagrees with you is not necessarily out to condemn you too.

To most people here, this is a hobby and not a job, so spending time on board repair is part of the fun...regardless of how long it takes.

Maybe you need a break from this forum.. it is starting to consume you and it isn't pretty.

[pbj]

You've definitely got to try repairing it yourself.  Occasionally you get lucky though my luck's been really bad lately on acid damaged boards.  The Stern/Bally repro MPU market is so saturated that I personally wouldn't bother sending a board off for professional repair.

Meteor's a fun game, I've had an eye out for a cheap one for...... 12 years.

 

[ed12]

i know what your saying smartbomb
most of injoyment in a game comes from fixing mpu/driver boards etc
however on the flip side
it some times is not about me..but rather the coustmer
as i explained the last thing u want on a friday night is a blown mpu
u are left with very few choices..
if it were my machine,i would just swap the coustmer out
have a cold beer and go home..fix my broken mpu my-self

ed

[Sarver Systems]

I agree with what everyone is saying.

It's nice to be able to fix the board at your own shop, under ideal conditions, rather than kneeling on the floor with hardly any lighting, and the customer standing over your shoulder watching and asking a million questions.

[Sarver Systems]

I've got the board all repaired. I still need to test it, and get the remote battery mounted.

Speaking of the remote battery...

What diode should I use? 1N4004?
What polarity should the diode be in? I want the voltage to flow from the battery to the board, but not from the board to the battery...so....I'd want the diode on the + end of the lead, with the stripe facing the batteries?

[MTPPC]

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/battery.html

[Sarver Systems]

Thank you. Striped end towards + on battery.

[pbj]

Also, on this particular board, should be able to find an empty hole close to the + point on the MPU.  I generally solder a diode directly to the MPU and run the remote battery wire to that.  It keeps someone in the future from leaving off the blocking diode.  Having another blocking diode in your battery pack won't hurt anything.

[Sarver Systems]

Also, on this particular board, should be able to find an empty hole close to the + point on the MPU.  I generally solder a diode directly to the MPU and run the remote battery wire to that.  It keeps someone in the future from leaving off the blocking diode.  Having another blocking diode in your battery pack won't hurt anything.

Precisely what I was going to do.

[TopJimmyCooks]

if you really get in trouble you can get the board repaired very easily.  Barakandl on rgp/pinside does a good job and takes trade in's.  I ran an alltek board for a while then sold it for $5 less than I paid for it on ebay, and got a repaired bally mpu from that guy.  working fine ever since. 

[Sarver Systems]

I finally had a chance to test this board in METEOR. No go.

I am able to get 1 flicker, then 2 flashes. Which tells me U8 is bad. U7 is the same chip, so I swapped them, but got the same error. I've got a Lightning, so I pulled the MPU from it, and the machine gives me full 7 beeps/flashes, and the all tests work in test mode.

In play mode, none of the solenoids work.

I've still got some testing to do I guess!

[ed12]

raise the playfeild up
find the 1a  fuse
looking from the :front:,it will be on your left side
if it is open.? chk for a bad coil..if it is good?
your driver board is a tad south..or the headers that feed it ..both from the playfeild and or the mpu

ed

[Sarver Systems]

I've also got no feature lights. All of the general lighting works though.

All of the solenoids fire during the test, but not during play mode. Not even the ball kicker to start the game.

I'll check the fuse, anyways.

[ed12]

that is :gui: is working..
if they work in :in test mode: but when u exit and go to game mode
look at the light on the micro..if it is soild on the mpu is locked up..
do u have the balley test manual handy ?
it will tell u what the blinks mean
also them things are noted for :bad: board connectors..both on the mpu and the driver board...hudge hint here
shut it down..turn it back on and listen for a click..>realy<..on driver board
this controls the flippers
it should click..if not refer to the manual and find the wiring route from the mpu to the driver-board,also on the power-supply there is a over-all fuse,that supplys this voltage,if it is blown ?,then u have a down stream problem >driver,coil<..
u stated u swaped u7/u8...no these chips are not the same ,there #'s may be
but back in the day there 1 time programble :pia's:= one time programble i/o chip
u need also to chk for the jumper on the board that make up the .cfg of the mirco
it did very between machines..ie jumper 1 could hook to jumper 3 on kings of steel
where jumper #1 could hook to jumper 2 on kiss
u must watch for this

ed

[Sarver Systems]

I meant to say I swapped U8 for the chip rioght beside it...U13 I think it is?

It didn't make any difference though.

Anyways, I am very leary of the light board as well. It is pretty corroded, and I'll end up replacing parts on it as well I'm sure.

I for a manual off pinwiki that shows every continuity test for the U8 socket, and I fail on 2 of them, so I'll have to dig a little deeper on that too.

I'm at work right now, so I can't post any more details than that until I am at home with the board in front of me.

[Silverball84]

Check for broken board traces around 5101