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| NAOMI/MAME Switching Cabinet (with pictures!!!) |
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| bimm25e:
So in my boredness I have decided that the new NAOMI cabinet I purchased at an auction is going to become my MAME cabinet. Its a Dynamo HS5 cabinet with a K7000 (25K7193 to be exact). One of my first headaches I had was sharing the buttons, I was concerned about inputting to both the PC and NAOMI at once and I was even more concerned with voltage problems from having the buttons running through both at once. I grabbed an old A/B monitor switch from my workplace, the kind with the A/B Dial that passes a VGA and a PS2 port and took it apart, to my Delight, the switch runs completely off of a 32PDT switch (32 poles, double throw) I was able to use this "dial" to route the control panel to the NAOMI and a USB interface card one at a time. Most of the time I've spent so far has been creating a harness on the switch that can plug inline with the MOLEX connectors already utilized at the quick detach point between my control panel and CAPCOM I/O. This works perfectly! I can switch the button outputs with a quick turn of the dial, I have ONE extra pole set on the switch I want to use to control either the audio or video switching but at this point, just to get it working, I am leaving that piece out of the equation. I have done more work than this but want to update this thread with the pictures from each step so stay posted, I'll be posting more tonight. |
| Dcpmark:
Nice! Can I ask what you paid for the Naomi cab at auction?? I've become obsessed with getting a working 3-screen Sega Strike Fighter cartridge and motherboard and building out a smaller sit-down with 3 LCDs, 2 of them folding. |
| bimm25e:
that's so crazy I was thinking of some way to eventually put this in a corner with LCD's on either side making like a "L' with 3 screens and 2 chairs. This auction was stupid only like 5 bidders and maybe 120 cabs, I killed it and got the cab for $150. I would hold off on the "rotary switch" style for now at least, Im getting some weird issues where when I press a button on the USB encoder the screen flickers and the encoder board's power dims/fades/goes out. Sometimes if it's off releasing the button quickly will make it come back on. It loses its connection to windows though and fails to reconnect typically after the first connection. its the "Zero Delay USB" encoders I'm using, my guess is they can't get their signal through the 24" -16" of wire from the board through the switch to the ground. I'm not exactly sure though I never took EE. |
| Dcpmark:
A working Naomi cab for $150?? Wow!! |
| rCadeGaming:
That's a great deal just for the Naomi hardware and game, that's awesome. What other games are you planning to get for it? Ikaruga, VF4, and the Guilty Gear series are pretty sweet. Check out Puyo Puyo Fever, not a lot of people have heard of that one. Any plans to upgrade the sticks and buttons? As for the problem with the switch, try cleaning it with some contact cleaner first. De-oxit gold works well. |
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