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| Drnick:
If you want to go down the 2 panel route then get a 4 player controller installed in Pedestal one and wire up the buttons joysticks etc. For Player 3/4 run the wires to a female parallel port (Make a note of what goes where). This you install to the rear of the unit. You dont have to use a parallel port its just easiest as You can have 2 joysticks with 6 buttons each using up 22 of the pins. you then wire up the 2nd panel the same and use a straight through 25pin cable. This way there are no issues with detection of usb devices being plugged in and unplugged etc. I am fairly sure that there is a neogeo bartop on here somewhere that connects up a 2nd panel in much the same manner. |
| paigeoliver:
I can't tell but the panel may be a bit wide for pinball buttons and even if it isn't then you may run into the problem of player 3 and 4 bumping into them (which will be problematic if those buttons happen to share wiring with any of your other buttons). It is impossible to come up with a universal fighting game button layout when you have oddballs like Time Killers and the Mortal Kombat series throwing monkey wrenches into the whole thing. I always put the exit button on the underside of the panel out of sight so you have to reach underneath to hit it. That eliminated 100 percent of accidental game exits I had encountered on previous builds (other people would always be the ones to trigger the exit, not me. Kids are especially bad at hitting every button on the panel). I would seriously consider making that button curve a bit milder. My main cabinet has an exaggerated curve like that and I don't like it at all. The real Japanese cabinets generally had much milder curves. |
| DaveMMR:
--- Quote from: Drnick on July 23, 2013, 03:01:00 pm ---If you want to go down the 2 panel route then get a 4 player controller installed in Pedestal one and wire up the buttons joysticks etc. For Player 3/4 run the wires to a female parallel port (Make a note of what goes where). This you install to the rear of the unit. You dont have to use a parallel port its just easiest as You can have 2 joysticks with 6 buttons each using up 22 of the pins. you then wire up the 2nd panel the same and use a straight through 25pin cable. This way there are no issues with detection of usb devices being plugged in and unplugged etc. I am fairly sure that there is a neogeo bartop on here somewhere that connects up a 2nd panel in much the same manner. --- End quote --- The project he is referring to is this one: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,114435.0.html Same idea as the panels; less wires though (you're not carrying over video/audio - only controls.) But yeah, Drnick explained it a lot better than I did. I don't know of any examples off-hand but it should be relatively easy to implement. It's really only making a second pedestal and making a connecting to the main pedestal with simple wiring. (You can even make two individual panels that plug into the third, main panel if symmetry is a concern.) |
| PL1:
For P3 and P4, you could make a couple of USB single-player sticks using AVR Encoders that plug in to the main 2-player panel via Neutrik USB feedthrus or similar. You can store the single-player sticks on the lower shelf of the cart when they aren't in use. This also allows the option of using USB PS2 controllers for console games with shoulder buttons. Scott |
| uiucphoenix:
Project update! I was able to use the pattern cutter at work and used it to mock-up the top of the control panel in gatorfoam. Next steps are the sides and bottom of the control panel. After that I will wire it all up and make sure I can get it all up and running. |
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