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Does anyone use conductive adhesives?
Monkeyvoodoo:
--- Quote from: Maximus on July 06, 2013, 03:44:44 pm ---
--- Quote from: yotsuya on July 06, 2013, 03:02:51 pm ---After testing it out at an arcade repair party, I just bought a Hakko Soldering Station as well as a Hakko desoldering gun. +1 on using quality equipment.
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I also use a hakko station. A quality iron took me from completely useless to recapping my own monitors and doing other everyday electronics repair and builds. Just another example of a quality tool making your life a thousand times easier.
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Never skimp on your tools. You do get what you pay for.
Sent from a pineapple under the sea
lcmgadgets:
Thanks guys. Sigh. I knew these were the kind of responses I'd get. I actually went from an el-cheapo iron to a portosal (I think mines the Propiezo 75). I use sal ammoniac to clean/retin my tips--awesome stuff but watch out for the fumes. I've learned to use a liquid flux--much easier to work with. I use lead-free solder--could this b part of why it seems to take a long time for the solder to melt/flow? That's my final, biggest complaint--it seems to take a lot longer for me to get the damn solder to melt & flow than in the videos. I've watched the tutorials, I've read, I've practiced--I guess it's just going to take more practice. Another issue--I use a 3rd hand tool, & other clamps when I can, but I often find myself having a hard time to get the part & wire to stay in contact while I heat/solder them. I guess I just have shaky hands. Any other ideas for dealing with this issue?
shponglefan:
--- Quote from: lcmgadgets on July 07, 2013, 06:36:35 pm ---I use lead-free solder--could this b part of why it seems to take a long time for the solder to melt/flow? That's my final, biggest complaint--it seems to take a lot longer for me to get the damn solder to melt & flow than in the videos.
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Yup, lead-free is going to be more difficult. Just get some tin/lead solder (60/40 or 63/37) in the thinnest diameter you can find.
walkera:
Feel sorry for you,but i am in the same condition! :badmood:
PL1:
Two more considerations that haven't been mentioned in this thread yet:
1. Greater surface area making contact means faster heat transfer.
If only the pointy end of the tip is making contact, the heat will transfer slower than if the side of the tip near the point is used.
2. Many commercial boards have protective coatings added after the solder.
If you don't remove the protective coating from the work area, it may be difficult or even impossible to solder properly on that part of the board.
Scott