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Help! Couple questions with standup machine, PCB and rear panel pressure switch

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nagamitsu:

Here's the rear panel switch in pic, white switch on right hand side. It seems someone possibly reversed its wiring so that when it is not pressed in, power flows. Which may make sense, the rear panel itself is missing, so nothing to push it in. I'd like to wire it back to original for when I have back panel on it again.

Tim



mgb:

That switch is probably wired the way it was always meant to be.
As was already said by Paigeoliver, those switches work in the following manner:
1) when the switch is pushed in (by the back door), its closed allowing power to go through.
2) when the door is removed, the switch goes to its neutral position which opens the path, killing power.
3) if you pull the switch out, past the neutral position, it's closed allowing power to go through.

That switch is probably sitting there in the pulled out position.

Also note that just because an led is lit on the game board, it does not mean that the 5 volts is at the proper voltage.

If you're gonna get more arcade boards, it will benefit you to perform the following steps to take care of the easy repairs on boards

1) always verify your 5 volts with a meter at the game board as I described in above post.
And check for any bad fuses ( with meter, not by eye)

2) reseat and possibly clean the pins on any socketed roms chips that are on the board.



nagamitsu:

Much appreciated. I know cocktail unit does power up another PCB, I'll do further testing on this PCB though. Switch, is fully out and therefore allowing power through. If pressed all way in, it cuts power. So that's what I was confused with, figuring the back panel would have it pushed all the way in, should allow for power in that position?

Tim

paigeoliver:

You are completely focusing on the wrong thing by worrying about that interlock switch. It isn't your problem.

Things like boards just tossed willy nilly into the bottom of the cabinet sitting on top of the isolation transformer, now that is a problem.

If you are trying to diagnose anything about games without a multimeter then you need to stop right now and go buy one. No excuses, just go into any home improvement or tool store and buy one.  Trying to work on games without a multimeter is like trying to work on cars with nothing but a hammer and a paintbrush, not only will you not get anything done, but the people you ask for help will also be laughing.

Just because one JAMMA board powers up in one cabinet doesn't mean that another good one will. You have to check and adjust the voltage every time. You need a multimeter to do that. They cost less than $10. Get a digital one, not one with a needle on it.

+5 volts is your most important voltage and is normally the only one you can directly adjust (the other ones have much looser tolerances than +5 does). You generally want this adjusted to somewhere between +5.01 and +5.1, measured on the gameboard. However measuring on the gameboard isn't always easy and you can usually get away with adjusting to +5.1 measured at the power supply as a quick check.

mgb:

Amen to that brother

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