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Quick Disconnects - Just started and I have questions.
Pavlovtiger:
Well, I tested just hooking the ground and active wire ends directly through the switch prongs, and at least I know my problem is lack of connection when going through the disconnects, as the button works just fine. I think I'm going to go ahead and order myself some braided-core wiring and drop this solid-core stuff as it's just not very friendly to work with for this.
mgb:
Yeah, you'll get the hang of it.
Practicing is a good idea.
Also if you question the wire you got or your wiring itself, remember to post pictures here as that can help to better id your issues.
Pavlovtiger:
That's a good idea, I'll see if I can borrow the roomie's camera and take a few snaps of what I'm working with. Just as an aside, what 3D modeling software did you use to create the mockup pics for Vertical Retrace? Those look brilliant, I'd love to play about with it and see if I can envision how I want mine.
sandheaver:
I find that solid core wire does not work well with quick disconnects. It is more difficult to crush copper (wire material) than aluminum (connector material) so a solid core wire just kind of stays put while you try to warp the connector to fit tightly; the strands in a stranded copper wire move around when you crimp and get pinned against each other as well as the connector resulting in a much, much better connection.
It wasn't the connector's fault, it was my own for buying solid core copper wire.
mgb:
Yeah crimp connectors are not made for solid core wires.
If you use solid core wire, than soldering is the best choice. But with solid core wire you wanna make sure the wire isn't moving a lot because thin solid wire will break if its flexed a lot.
I work on a lot of arcade machines and I've repaired a lot of solid wires broken away from switches.
I personally prefer 22 gauge (20 gauge is what arcade used to typically use but its not as common now a days and 22 is fine) stranded wire and QD crimps.
I personally have done enough seeding and crimping that I just take the easy way now and I buy economy jamma harnesses for $10. For a mame machine, I just cut off the 56 pin connector end and use the cabling. The QDs are already on and they're insulated. Works like a champ.
But it's always best to first learn how to do it the harder way.
Pav,
For the 3d renderings I, like a bunch of others here, used google sketch up. It's a great program.
Now it's called Trimble sketch up.
For my cp and marquee artwork I used Corel Paint Shop Pro X. The greatest $50 I ever spent on software.