Arcade Collecting > Pinball
Pinball 2000 Tech Problem: Power Driver Board Damaged?
ChadTower:
The motherboard isn't nearly the same concern. There are multiple replacements you can swap in if you can find them. That prism card, though, is proprietary and very very expensive to replace.
jasonbar:
I couldn't find an elegant solution for remote-mounting the PRISM card button battery & having it look good & be robust & be remote yet attached.
So, I simply desoldered the battery holder & installed it on the other side of the PCB, so it can be accessed easily without undoing the ROM/PRISM card sandwich, & if it actually does leak, it will simply booger up (relatively) easily repaired traces rather than precious components.
Attached pic shows 1 of my sets stock & 1 modded.
-Jason
lilshawn:
the button cell batteries are pretty good at keeping their innards inside. You shouldn't have to worry about them leaking too much. The old lithium and ni-cads on the other hand...
ChadTower:
While that's true... "shouldn't" is not good enough on that Prizm board. If that board it'll cost him a grand to replace it.
jasonbar:
Coda:
Fiiiinally had time to re-attack this problem. (The problem of the autofire coil/diode/fuse for RFM's autofigure.)
Last update from way back when, before I attacked this issue last week:
I'd replaced the diode & transistor for the autofire coil. It still blew the transistor & fuse.
This weekend's progress:
I swapped the old autofire coil for a new one, using a used diode from a working coil pulled from a jet bumper (This bumper had the wrong flavor of coil from some previous repair, so I replaced that bumper's coil to be what it was supposed to be). Success! This concludes that my problem was the old autofire coil, which I just measured to have the same resistance as the fresh one that I used. Puzzling...
No matter, all's well in RFM land & my p2k combo plunger/button launcher is fab. I'm now pretty good at replacing the 3-legged transistors on the power board! :]
Thanks for the help, guys.
-Jason
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