Interest Check: Jamma Adapters (Capcom, Taito, Nintendo) [CO, USA]

[CraftyMech]

I realized last week I have a stack of untested boards that I need to build adapters for. There are sources for adapters of all stripes, but they usually run between $30-$60. Since I like rolling my own solutions, and believe in inexpensive products that work well, I'm considering a run of adapters for the following:

Capcom classic (Commando, Gunsmoke, Ghosts & Goblins, etc.)

Mr. Do, Lady Bug, etc. (Universal) w/ 2watt amp

Konami Classic (Rush n Attack, Time Pilot, Gryuss, etc.)

Nintendo w/ 2w amp + RGB inverter w/ adjustment pots (Popeye, DK, Mario Bros)

Taito classic (Bubble Bobble, Arkanoid, Legend of Kage, Elevator Action, Jungle King)

Prices would be $25 - $35, possibly a little bit more for the Taito adapter (needs an additional Molex power connector).

Let me know if there is an adapter you are looking for that is not mentioned above!

[southpaw13]

I am looking for a Taito to Jamma adapter for an Tournament Arkanoid board.

Thanks,
-SP

[CraftyMech]

Is that a single board, and is there a separate power header, or is there just one edge connector?

[southpaw13]

I will post a pick tomorrow

[retrostark]

I want that bubble bobble

[Jumpman64]

Does "Taito Classic" include Qix?

[Nephasth]

Is that a single board, and is there a separate power header, or is there just one edge connector?

Single board, separate power header.

[CraftyMech]

Thanks for the pinout Nephasth. How was the RMPS? Going tomorrow and meeting up with Sharpfork.

Looks like Bubble Bobble & Arkanoid are Taito "classic", but Qix/Zookeeper has a set of different connectors.

I've updated the original post with a partial list for Taito.

[Nephasth]

How was the RMPS? Going tomorrow and meeting up with Sharpfork.

Good times. I played damn near all the pins set up on Friday. Was pretty good early this morning, but it got WAY crowded by 11, so I headed back early. 1UP was badass Friday as well, never had a chance to make it to the 2UP though.

[southpaw13]

Here is a pic of Arkanoid tournament.

-SP

[CraftyMech]

Thanks for the photo SP, definitely looks like the Taito "Classic" pinout that Bubble Bobble has as well. The only existing adapter I could find for sale was on eBay for $60! I think I definitely will be able to produce an adapter at a much better price point- probably around $35.

[Nephasth]

I'd be interested in a parts kit for a Taito "Classic", depending on price (I already have the Molex parts though). I like fiddling with ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

[opt2not]

Wait, are you talking about manufactured adapters, PCB types? Similar to the ones out there, but for cheaper?

If so, I'd be in for a Capcom 1942 adapter to replace my ugly wired one!

Konami Classic (Rush n Attack, Time Pilot, Gryuss, and a bunch of early games)

Do you think you'd be able to add additional tap points for stereo sound output on the adapter somewhere?  I bought  the Konami Gyruss adapter that's out there, and only outputs mono-sound through the JAMMA pinout. While this is good for most Jamma cabs, there are some cabinets (like sit-down candy cabs, or the dynamo "q-sound" enabled cabinets) that support stereo speakers, and it would be nice to have the option to output stereo sound from Gyruss.

Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor doesn't sound that epic through mono sound while shooting the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of those aliens. 

[CraftyMech]

Wait, are you talking about manufactured adapters, PCB types? Similar to the ones out there, but for cheaper?

If so, I'd be in for a Capcom 1942 adapter to replace my ugly wired one!

Do you think you'd be able to add additional tap points for stereo sound output on the adapter somewhere?  I bought  the Konami Gyruss adapter that's out there, and only outputs mono-sound through the JAMMA pinout. While this is good for most Jamma cabs, there are some cabinets (like sit-down candy cabs, or the dynamo "q-sound" enabled cabinets) that support stereo speakers, and it would be nice to have the option to output stereo sound from Gyruss.

Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor doesn't sound that epic through mono sound while shooting the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of those aliens. 

Definitely looking at manufactured pcbs for the adapter boards, I don't have the patience for all that hand wiring!

Interesting though regarding stereo output for the Konami "classic" adapter.  I dont think it would be an issue at all to add stereo output, either through unused pins, or a stereo phono plug, or both. I'll look into it and let you know!

[CraftyMech]

I'd be interested in a parts kit for a Taito "Classic", depending on price (I already have the Molex parts though). I like fiddling with ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

If you already had the molex header, I could send you just the adapter board. Then you would just need to solder in the wires from your header into the right spots. So I think that would take the cost down, but I won't know numbers for sure until I look at laying out the boards and determine the fabrication costs.

[opt2not]

Interesting though regarding stereo output for the Konami "classic" adapter.  I dont think it would be an issue at all to add stereo output, either through unused pins, or a stereo phono plug, or both. I'll look into it and let you know!

There are Konami adapters out there that support the second speaker, but one channel still goes through the JAMMA edge while the other is meant to be wired externally:


But what would be nice is to have both channels accessible through solder points on the board, we can solder headers to it and make our own breakout cables for. The PS360+'s (those akishop multi-console controller adapters) do this type of thing with their on-board USB breakout. You have to add your own header for a connector if you so choose.


Looking at the Gyruss pinout, pins 2+B are for the Right Channel, 15+S for the Left. It shouldn't be too hard to re-route those pins to solder points, right?:

[CraftyMech]

Thanks for the photos, I don't think that would be a problem either. Just a matter of designing the pcb to have those solder points.

I also double checked 1942, and although the pin count is the same, it turns out that the board does not follow the Capcom "classic" pinout

I updated the Capcom classic game list to remove 1942.

[southpaw13]

Hello, yes I want one for Arkanoid.

Thanks,
-SP

[CraftyMech]

Hello, yes I want one for Arkanoid.

Thanks,
-SP

I've started on the Taito Classic prototype, I'm just waiting on the molex headers from digikey. I've been wanting to build one forever for a Legend of Kage board I have, so I think this adapter and the Konami Classic will probably be the first two that I build for sale.

[Nephasth]

Any update?

[CraftyMech]

My molex came in last week, and I've starting working on the Taito adapter. Should have a prototype done in a couple of days and ready to test on my Arkanoid board.

[CraftyMech]

I've been working on the Taito Classic (Arkanoid/Bubble Bobble) Jamma adapter, and I definitely need a better crimping tool. The one I have works fine for the small molex crimp ends, but for the .156 it does not get the job done!

I also built a Mr. Do/Universal Jamma adapter, and it works great. I'm using powered PC speakers on my test bench, so the non-amplified sound is not a problem, but I'd like to add a small 2-3 watt amp circuit for amplified sound on the Jamma +/- speaker connections. Of course the big question for this adapter is if anybody really needs one? Mr. Do is a popular classic, but I don't see many requests for Jamma adapters on the various forums.

[southpaw13]

Dont forget that I want the first Arkanoid one!!!

[myntik1]

sign me up for a konami and a taito classic

[CraftyMech]

JammaBoards may have beaten me to a Konami Classic adapter with external 2 channel support for Gyrus, and at a good price:

http://bit.ly/12E3hIK

[TravistyOJ]

Would it be possible to make a Sega System 16 to JAMMA adapter?  Not sure if the interest on that is high enough, but it's very simple.  No on board logic necessary, just remapping the pinouts. 

[CraftyMech]

I'll have to check the pinout for the System 16 boards. I have a Sega "Gigas" board I've been meaning to build an adapter for, although that might not be System 16. If there was a demand for this adapter I could definitely make one.

[Nephasth]

Would it be possible to make a Sega System 16 to JAMMA adapter?  Not sure if the interest on that is high enough, but it's very simple.  No on board logic necessary, just remapping the pinouts. 

Bob Roberts sells a DIY kit like so...

[TravistyOJ]

Thanks!  If I'm the only one that wants one, I may do that.

[TravistyOJ]

I'll have to check the pinout for the System 16 boards. I have a Sega "Gigas" board I've been meaning to build an adapter for, although that might not be System 16. If there was a demand for this adapter I could definitely make one.

That game is Sega System 8.  Sega System 16 looks like:

Code: [Select]

              Component Side   Pin #     Solder Side
          -----------------------------------------------
                         GND   1   A     GND
                         GND   2   B     GND
                 +5 Volts DC   3   C     +5 Volts DC
                 +5 Volts DC   4   D     +5 Volts DC
                +12 Volts DC   5   E     +12 Volts DC
                Coin Meter 1   6   F     Coin Meter 2
                               7   H             
          Player 1  Switch A   8   J     Player 2  Switch A
          Player 1  Switch B   9   K     Player 2  Switch B         
          Player 1  Switch C   10  L     Player 2  Switch C
                               11  M             
              Player 1  Down   12  N     Player 2  Down
                Player 1  Up   13  P     Player 2  Up
             Player 1  Right   14  R     Player 2  Right
              Player 1  Left   15  S     Player 2  Left
                               16  T             
                               17  U             
                               18  V             
                               19  W             
             Coin Switch  1    20  X     Player 1  Start Switch
             Coin Switch  2    21  Y     Player 2  Start Switch
                Test Switch    22  Z             
             Service Switch    23  a             
                Speaker (+)    24  b     Speaker (-)
                Monitor Red    25  c     Monitor Green
               Monitor Blue    26  d     Composite Sync
                        GND    27  e     GND
                        GND    28  f     GND

[Nephasth]

I'd be interested in a parts kit for a Taito "Classic", depending on price (I already have the Molex parts though). I like fiddling with ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

Been quiet on the Taito adapters, but I'm still interested in a DIY kit if you're willing to offer them like this, 2 now actually.

[CraftyMech]

Still working on the Taito adapter! I've been sidetracked by working on getting a new version of the mini SLG ready (running out of the current version). I need to order a better crimper for the .156 molex pins.

I've built a prototype that works fine with my Arkanoid board, so I just need to do the pcb layout.

[cools]

I'd take a Taito Classic adaptor - I've got an Arkanoid + spinners that have been sitting on the shelf for far too long.

[CraftyMech]

I've been sidetracked recently with the mini SLG 2, but I managed to finish the prototype of my Taito Classic adaptor!

I've tested the adapter with Arkanoid, and Legend of Kage. So now I need to put the pcb design together, and figure out if there is enough interest to produce the boards.

Since it has been awhile, if you don't mind chiming in again if you still are looking for a Taito Classis adaptor, that would be great.

[CraftyMech]

And here is a shot of Arkanoid running on my new (to me) 15k test monitor. The monitor is an old Apple RGB model that I picked up for $30

The black/gray shells on the cable connection may look a tad familiar if you are a mini SLG user. I saved the scratched and damaged cases for use as strain relief on my DIY cables.

[Nephasth]

Sorry Crafty, I got impatient and ended up making my own last week.

Your adapter looks great!

[southpaw13]

Yes, still want one!  I was first on the original list 

Southpaw

[Raven..]

You should try whipping up a Nintendo Vs to JAMMA, or Playchoice to JAMMA adapter.  Lots of those boards out there in the wild too.

[cools]

I definitely still want an adapter for Arkanoid. I may even take a few if the price ends up being good - shipping to the UK will be the worst bit.

[CraftyMech]

Southpaw - The first unit made will definitely be yours!

Cools - Great, thanks for letting me know.

Raven- Mike's Arcade sells a Vs Adapter for $65, depending on what's involved I could probably develop something cheaper. I'll take a look and see what I find out.

I'm working on the pcb layout now, and identified the right parts for making the 12 pin sub connector when I put my prototype together. I also have plenty of the 44 pin edge connectors on hand for the Taito side of the adapter.

So I am thinking that by the end of the month I could be ready to sell these, I'll keep everyone posted!

[southpaw13]

That works!  Thanks!  I will probably buy a couple SLGv2 with the order

Southpaw

[poodude]

Are you selling the Arkanoid adapters at all? If so I would like one. My only other option is to get one off Mikes arcade.

[CraftyMech]

I have the pcb design finished, I just need to review and send off for production. I'm going to be using an overseas company for this run due to the board size, instead of the local outfit I use for the much smaller mini SLG pcbs. The downside is a 2-3 week delivery time frame from when I submit the order.

I'm planning to submit the design in the next week, so hopefully I will have the Taito Classic Bubble Bobble/Arkanoid JAMMA adapter ready to sell by the end of September.

Just remember you need a spinner for Arkanoid! A joystick won't work, both from a technical and of course playability standpoint.

[poodude]

That sounds awesome! I'm willing to wait, so you can count me in for one. I have the original Taito spinners that I use for Arkanoid Returns. I've just been wanting to be able to play the original Like I used to in the arcades as a kid. 

[opt2not]

Hey Crafty, put me down for a taito classic adapter too!

[opt2not]

Hey will the Taito classic adapter support all 3 of Bubble Bobble's connectors?

BB has the 44-pin G connector, the 12-pin H connector, and a 32-pin T connector on the bottom board. That T connector isn't on Arkanoid boards.

I've read random multiple sources that the T connector isn't needed, but there are a few cases that say it is. Do you happen to know what the verdict is with this T connector?  The H connector seems to supply power to the CPU board (top), and the T connector seems to power the Video board (bottom).  Some people say the extra connector isn't necessary,  that the connection is just a dupe power tap since they're connected via ribbon cables, in case voltage drops on those lines...

But I 

[CraftyMech]

As far as I know the bottom 32pin connector is not needed, but I've probably read the same sources you did.

I have a Taito Legend of Kage board that has the same pinout, and it doesn't work without the 32 pin connector for the video board. The prototype adapter I built has both, but I wasn't planning on including the 32pin because of the added complexity.

.. but to be sure I need to test, so how about I lend you the prototype and you could verify if the 32pin is needed? That would definitely help me out a lot!

[opt2not]

Two problems with that plan:

I can't verify that I have a working BB board. I just picked this board up on the weekend, and the seller said he "thinks" it works, that it was running blind in a cabinet he pulled it from. But he suspects the monitor was bad, and that this board is good.

The other problem is that both my Jamma cabinets aren't putting the -5v the board needs. Though I'm working on rectifying this shortly.

I could give it a try once I have my PSU's -5v issue sorted, but with a possible faulty board I'm don't like the idea of giving you bench tests with an unverified board.

Is there anyone else here with a working verified Bubble Bobble that can help us out?  Has to be an original PCB.

[Nephasth]

The schematic shows the T connector as a 36 pin connector. I believe the pinout has the T connector mislabeled as G (since it shows two different connectors with the same name). As to whether you need it or not... not sure, but here's the part of the schematic showing the T connector pins as well as the pinout.

opt2not, my friend, you need to make yourself a test rig!

[opt2not]

opt2not, my friend, you need to make yourself a test rig!

You're damn right.

[Nephasth]

Well, here's a pic of the back of a Bubble Bobble PCB, shows the T connector hooked up. With the pinout, schematic, and this pic showing the T connector connected, I'd say it's a safe bet that it needs to be hooked up.

[CraftyMech]

There is a seller on eBay that offers a Bubble Bobble Jamma adapter without the secondary connector. They are $60, which is a price I am hoping to come under by a wide margin. But just the fact someone has been selling those on eBay for awhile (the current listing has a couple sold), has me wondering if that extra connector is really needed. Without an actual working board to have someone test, I don't think we will have a definitive answer.

Either way I think I will include a couple pads on the pcb where I could add the secondary connector if needed. That way I can submit the design files and get the pcbs made, while still researching this question.

[Nephasth]

With the pinout, schematic, and this pic showing the T connector connected, I'd say it's a safe bet that it needs to be hooked up.

I take this back. I tested a Jungle Hunt PCB (which also has a T connector) with my adapter a month ago with the T connector disconnected and it worked just fine.

[poodude]

Any update with these adapters?